String gauge/brand for yamaha f335?

[wolfe]

I've ordered a yamaha f335 acoustic guitar, having played electric for a while. I've never had a steel string acoustic before (only nylon a long time ago), and after looking around I'm a bit confused about string gauges on acoustics.

 

Most of the reviews I've read of this guitar say that it's a pretty good inexpensive guitar, but some better strings really made a difference. I can't seem to find information on what gauge strings come on it from the factory (and the guitar doesn't even seem to be listed anywhere on yamaha's website).

 

If anyone could point me in the right direction, and/or reccomend some reasonably priced strings (ideally under about $15) I'd really appreciate it.

 

One other quick question - Since this guitar has gold color tuning pegs, I was thinking of replacing the bridge pins to match when I change the strings. Is there anything specific I need to know when choosing new pins (such as do they come in different sizes etc?)

 

Thanks in advance for any help.

[Freeman Keller]

HGAC String Test

 

HGAC Pin Test

[rsgars]

I would say that any strings from medium down to custom lights will be okay for this guitar. If you are an electric player you might want to start with something like Elixr custom lights. The high E string on those is an .11, I think, so you may find them more comfortable initially.

 

Elixr strings are coated, and I actually prefer the sound of non-coated phosphor-bronze strings, like Martins, but the noise of my fingers moving on the strings drives me crazy so I use the Elixrs. They are easier on the fingers too.

 

As far as bridge pins, I believe they are a standard size. There is some debate about whether or not the material the pins is made of affects your tone. So, I would say that if you are going to change them, the first step would be to move from plastic to wood. On my high-end acoustic I have ebony pins. I can't say how much they have to do with tone, because my technique is my biggest handicap.

[wolfe]

Thanks for the link, that'll definitely help in picking out a brand.

 

I appreciate the advice on bridge pins too, would I be correct in assuming that metal (bronze?) bridge pins are worse than wood? How do they compare to plastic?

 

If I were to go for lights (that's inbetween medium and custom light, right?), is it likely I'll need the neck adjusted to compensate, or is that not really an issue?

 

Thanks again

[rsgars]

I would think you are okay with lights. Try them first before you adjust the neck.

 

As far a pins, my take on the test is that it ultimately is a matter of taste, both visual and sound when it come to pins. What I generally do with a new guitar is play it as it comes for a while. That is, with the exception of strings and perhaps a setup. Then I make one change at a time so I don't get confused about what worked and what didn't.

[rjoxyz]

Dean Markley Alchemy strings (either bronze or PB and about $10) come in 11-52, 12-54 and 13-56. They are my favorite coated string (the PB). Coming from an electric, I agree you may want to start with the 11's. For uncoated strings, I really like DR Sunbeams (about $6.50). Great tone and they are wound on round cores which will give perceptibly lower string tension than hex cores.

 

Personally, I would not worry about pegs in the beginning. If you are trying to match the tuners, there are several brands of brass pegs out there. I have used them in the past. They will usually increase volume and sustain a bit, but they will also brighten the tone significantly. Whether that is good or bad is a matter of taste. I would experiment with strings before anything else--they seem to change tone the most from one type to another.

 

Keep in mind that light strings often compromise bass response quite a bit. I play 13-56's on almost all my guitars. That is the nice thing about the Sunbeams, they fell lighter than their gauge.

[Freeman Keller]

Wolf, the whole idea of doing both of those tests is so YOU can decide which ones - both strings and pins - sound the best. It is not to pick out a brand - I contend that there is very little difference between brands, but there are big differences between both composition and whether they are coated or not.

 

As far a string gauge is concerned, most acoustic guitars ship with either lights (0.012-0.054) which is what I tested, or mediums (0.013-0.056). Lighter strings tend to be a little easier to fret, a little easier to bend, a little easier on your fingers and have a little less volume. For most people they are a pretty good compromise. Mediums tend to have a little more volume and are often prefered by hard driving flatpickers. All of the "custom" sets are an attempt to fiddle around with the feel or volume or some funky tuning - some folks feel a need for them but I'm pretty happy with lights on all of my guitars all the time.

 

Radical changes in string gauges might require a slight tweak in your setup - but really shouldn't. The change from lights to mediums, for example, is about 12 percent more tension on the top and neck - you shouldn't see much change in relief as a result (unless your setup is really marginal to start with). Of course different diameters of strings will sit higher or lower in the nut slots, but again, I doubt that you will see the difference of a couple of thousands of an inch. Why don't you find out what gauge the manufacture recommended and stick with that?

 

WRT pins - again, that is why I did the test - so YOU can decide what you like. It is ironic that many people felt that the plain old plastic pins sounded better in my D-18 than fancy expensive ones (maybe Martin knows what they are doing, eh?) and some of us feel that the brass did help my old laminated Yamie. But can you really hear the difference or is it cosmetic?

 

Last comment, Rsgars says he thinks your pins are '"standard size" - well there are several "standards" - 3 and 5 degree taper, and different diameters. If you get ready to change pins, either go to Bob Colosi's site and look at his chart, or better yet, take a digital caliper and measure yours. Trying to force the wrong size into your pin holes can create some problems

[Tony Burns]

Id give Custom lights a whirl , they'll have a bigger bite than lights but be easy to play !