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Fender string ball-ends...?


tjtheguitarist

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Posted

Hey all,

 

I've been playing electric for about 3 years now, and though I had an acoustic, never really got into it. However, I have since discovered a man called John Butler, and now acoustic is all I play :)

 

So anyway I wanted to change the strings on my Fender DG-14S (cheapish maple and spruce dreadnought) for the first time. After looking around I decided on some Martin SP PBs, which set me back 6 quid.

 

When I went to change the strings, i removed 3 of the old ones at once so I could oil the dry fretboard. But when I tried to put the new Martins on, the ball end wouldn't go through the hole in the bridge/body. I thought I was doing it wrong, and persisted for quite a while. However, when I picked up one of the discarded stock strings (which I presume were Fenders), the ball end went straight through. It seems the bridge/body holes were cut to fit Fender strings, and the Martins just won't fit. Now my guitar has only 3 strings on it, all old, and I've wasted 6 pounds on strings I can't use (it's a lot when you're 16!)

 

Anyway, I wanted to ask:

Are the Fender ball ends unusually small, or are the Martin's unusually big?

 

Also, what brand strings can I buy with the Fender ball end size?

 

An alternative is taking a drill to the holes... It's only a cheap guitar after all, and I want another acoustic fairly soon.

 

Thanks in advance! :thu:

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Posted

I know it's a pain but thread the strings up from inside the guitar; at least that way you'll be sure that the ball ends snug up under the bridge plate-just don't tune them to pitch until all six are done-and you haven't wasted your money!

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Posted
I know it's a pain but thread the strings up from inside the guitar; at least that way you'll be sure that the ball ends snug up under the bridge plate-just don't tune them to pitch until all six are done-and you haven't wasted your money!


Hey, you're a pretty smart feller there, Andy :thu:

*doesn't make obvious comparison*

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Posted

Use Andy's idea until you can have the pegholes reamed (a little) by a competent luthier/repairperson...unless you've got some decent woodworking experience, don't try this yourself...should cost very little to have done.

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Posted
Use Andy's idea until you can have the pegholes reamed (a little) by a competent luthier/repairperson...unless you've got some decent woodworking experience, don't try this yourself...should cost very little to have done.



Ya know, Terry, I've been wanting to add a reamer to the guitar shop toolbox---but have you seen what they get for 'em?

:eek:

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Posted

Take a round jewlers file, and lightly file inside bridge pin holes, all around the diameter of the bridge pin hole. keeping the file at a straight up angle.
It won't take a lot of light filing to increase the hole size.
And you won't loose the taper of the bridge pin holes.
And yes, some steel string manufacturers do have different sized ball ends.

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Posted

I have a Fender DG-8S (from the Fender starter pack) that I picked up at a pawn shop for use as a beater. I've had the exact same problems, and read about others -- Fender acoustics just seem to have narrow bridge pin holes relative to other makers. I use Elixir custom light PBs on it, and I have to string 2 or 3 of them through the body, while the others JUST do make it through the bridge pin holes.

I've also had a lot of problems with the plastic bridge pins breaking off in the bridge, at which point I have to work them free from the inside. Only Fender replacement bridge pins will fit, other brands I can only get a few mm into the holes. Good thing Fender pins are dirt cheap.

It's definitely a hassle, which is a real shame because in all other respects my Fender is a terrific value as a low-end Dread. Having the pin holes reamed out a bit is bound to be a good idea, I just haven't done it myself because I'm lazy and cheap.

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Posted

A while back I was having trouble pushing some Martin strings thru a bridge that worked perfectly well with Elixers. I measured the "balls" (actually little cylinders) with my micrometer and they are both the same diameter and the same height, but the Elixers had more of a chamfer (the edges of the top and bottom of the cylinder are more rounded). The difference was very subtle, but it made a difference. I did a very light reaming with the StewMac 5 degree reamer and they fit fine - you could also roll up a piece of fine sand paper and open the bottom of the tapered pin hole just a hair. Don't use a drill bit - you'll risk chipping the bridge or bridge plate.

If the Fender pins are an odd size have the holes reamed to fit normal 5 degree pins. Also, a little trick if they get stuck is to reach inside with something like a coin and push up from the bottom.

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Posted

Thanks for all the help, guys :thu:

I already ordered some new fender strings (they better fit :mad: ) but next stringchange, i will try the round file method, or use sandpaper as someone suggested.

Cheers again!

PS This forum is easily the most friendly I've come across on the web

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Posted
Thanks for all the help, guys
:thu:

I already ordered some new fender strings (they better fit
:mad:
) but next stringchange, i will try the round file method, or use sandpaper as someone suggested.


Cheers again!


PS This forum is easily the most friendly I've come across on the web



Ultimately you should probably carefully open up the small diameter of the pin hole so that you can use any string on the market. When you get ready to do that let us know - there are some little tricks.

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