The G string keeps...popping...yea.

[BogoEN]

Ok, but seriously, I play a couple of songs dropping from G to E and I can just feel the tension leaving the string/neck, which is a bit troubling, but ofcourse, when I tune back up...POP!!! I hate it, there aren't many buzzkills like that. I have wasted alot of money on a whole new set just for a G, its not right. I don't think there is a burr on the machine, its a Grover...it breaks at the machine though. Its a Taylor 412-M. Any ideas? Is it just not meant to be retuned?

[moctzal]

Retuning strings alot causes them to break. Tuning the G to E and then back is a pretty significant change in pressure. It would probably happen on any guitar. How often do you change strings?

You know how when you push and pull the tab on a pop can to break it off? Same principle. Metals become brittle with changes in pressure.

Also changing string tension too quickly can cause a string to break when it ordinarily wouldn't.

[BogoEN]

Retuning strings alot causes them to break. Tuning the G to E and then back is a pretty significant change in pressure. It would probably happen on any guitar. How often do you change strings?

 

 

Like once every two months or so, at most. I like a not so bright string sound.

[moctzal]

After two months, if you retune regularly that's to be expected. That sounds normal enough to me.
I edited my first post, read the rest...

[Queequeg]

 

Ok, but seriously, I play a couple of songs dropping from G to E and I can just feel the tension leaving the string/neck, which is a bit troubling, but ofcourse, when I tune back up...POP!!! I hate it, there aren't many buzzkills like that. I have wasted alot of money on a whole new set just for a G, its not right. I don't think there is a burr on the machine, its a Grover...it breaks at the machine though. Its a Taylor 412-M. Any ideas? Is it just not meant to be retuned?

 

if it is breaking @ the machine & you're certain it is not a burr on the post (or a problem on the near-by nut) add an additional winding (wrap) to the string around the post. So if normally you have 2.5 wraps on the machine post, go around the post once more, maybe 4 wraps. This can act as sort of a cushion and takes pressure off the right angle on the string as it goes through the hole in the post.

[AK47]

if it is breaking @ the machine & you're certain it is not a burr on the post (or a problem on the near-by nut) add an additional winding (wrap) to the string around the post. So if normally you have 2.5 wraps on the machine post, go around the post once more, maybe 4 wraps. This can act as sort of a cushion and takes pressure off the right angle on the string as it goes through the hole in the post.

+1 This will help.

Also most guitar stores do sell individual strings so why buy the complete set?

[Freeman Keller]

Well, the third string has the smallest core wire of all of the strings, so it is frequently the one that breaks. However I retune all the time (never as low as you are) and almost never break a string (and I usually leave Elixers on for a couple of months) so I would say it is probably either a sharp edge on the tuner hole, the way you wrap the string, or possibly a slightly tight nut (try putting a little pencil lead in the slot).

I have seen a couple of threads where people have complained of breaking the G string with Elixers (you didn't say what kind they were) altho that's mostly what I use and I don't have that problem. You might give another brand a try.

What tuning are you using? The one for Suite: Judy Blue Eyes?

[BogoEN]

Well, the third string has the smallest core wire of all of the strings, so it is frequently the one that breaks. However I retune all the time (never as low as you are) and almost never break a string (and I usually leave Elixers on for a couple of months) so I would say it is probably either a sharp edge on the tuner hole, the way you wrap the string, or possibly a slightly tight nut (try putting a little pencil lead in the slot). I have seen a couple of threads where people have complained of breaking the G string with Elixers (you didn't say what kind they were) altho that's mostly what I use and I don't have that problem. You might give another brand a try. What tuning are you using? The one for Suite: Judy Blue Eyes?

 

 

I use D'Addario lights, no coating. No, my tuning isn't that drastic, just the G down to E, for a Nick Drake tune and one of my own. It's a big jump down, which is the problem partly, it just sounds so good. I will try to wrap a couple more times when I restring.

[Freeman Keller]

Let us know if that helps. btw - here is a short thread on the Elixer G string issue, but it sounds like that is not your problem

http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100889

[bjorn-fjord]

When I am first setting up a new guitar I tune to pitch and remove the strings at least a dozen times. I use cheap strings for the initial set up and then switch to a set of D'Addarios when the set-up is complete.
Anyway. Over the course of tuning up to concert pitch and back down to completely slack I almost always break a g-string. 95% of the time it is the first to go of all the strings. As FK mentioned, the g-string has the smallest core of all the strings.
Very often the g-string breaks because the nut slot is too tight.

I don't know why but of all the sets of nut making files I have owned, the g-string file is the exact size of the g-string. All of the other files are about 2or 3 thousandths larger than the diameter of the strings. I have no explanation of why this is the case. A too tight g-string slot is very common.

When you are tuning the g-string, do you hear any "ping" sounds? If so, this is a telltale sign of a tight slot. *Teehee*

[missedmyexit]

Thanks for that link Freeman.. I had this problem with the G string when using Elixars on my OMC Martin. I prefer those strings but outside of the money issue it's not worth the chance of busting one during a show so I stopped using them. Interesting to know that many have had this issue.

[Markuster]

I've had a "ping" when tuning my g for years.

So you're saying my g-string problem is that my slot is too tight!

sorry, that may have been too much information.

[AndrewGG]

Here's the solution. I guarantee that when you put a string on you put it through the post hole and then tune to pitch, right?
That's your problem; the moment you start tuning the edge of the post hole puts a sharp kink in the string right where you don't need it and you have instant metal-fatigue.

Here's what you do; after installing the string at the bridge keep the string taut and give it a wrap around the tuner post. Then take the free end through the hole, over the wrap and pull the string tight to lock it.
Next you tune to pitch.
As you tune up the string wraps will rise up the tuner post and lock off tight at the hole.
Now all the tension of the string is leaving the tuner post at a tangent and the sharp edge of the hole which is causing the problem is virtually eliminated.

I string all my guitars like this; it's quick, easy, the tuning is stable and I never break strings.

[AndrewGG]

I've had a "ping" when tuning my g for years. So you're saying my g-string problem is that my slot is too tight! sorry, that may have been too much information.

Shave some graphite from a pencil into the slot for lubrication:thu:

[DeepEnd]

Shave some graphite from a pencil into the slot for lubrication:thu:

 

Graphite is a good short term fix but you need to take your guitar to a competent tech and have the slot filed a bit wider. If that doesn't do it, a nut made of harder material (i.e., TUSQ or bone vs. plastic) might help.

[Queequeg]

Graphite is a good short term fix but you need to take your guitar to a competent tech and have the slot filed a bit wider. If that doesn't do it, a nut made of harder material (i.e., TUSQ or bone vs. plastic) might help.

 

 

now some folks might say tusq is plastic...

 

(he said, recalling the micarta crusades)