Vintage Yamaha FG-580 Action is WAY to high!

[hossauce]

I recently acquired a vintage Yamaha FG-580. The stock action is way too high. My luthier said that the best way to get the action down to the lowest would be to slot and file down the bridge to drop the strings down low behind the bridge. Is this a common modification? How will this affect the value of this vintage guitar? Thanks!

[happy-man]

Sounds like it needs a neck reset - but the guitar isn't worth it.

 

Scott O

[moctzal]

 

Sounds like it needs a neck reset - but the guitar isn't worth it. Scott O

 

 

And highly difficult on older Yamahas.

They use a glue that doesn't release with heat/humidity.

 

The modification that your luthier suggests isn't really a great one.

Reduces break angle of the strings and will change the tone of the guitar.

It's toast, sorry dude.

[Gary Palmer]

Sounds like a neck re-set project, but skimming the bridge top, re-seating the saddle and re-cutting it's pin slots is one solution that can bye-pass more structural work.

 

If the neck was seated using epoxy glue it can be a devil of a job to sweat out - their are epoxy "killing" chemical available - and there's no guarantee of an adequate end result.

 

The next option is to convert the neck to a bolt on. This involves cutting the neck off cleanly at the point where it meets the guitar body, adjusting the rest angle, inserting adequate bolt ferruls and bushings, etc.

 

The next is to cut the neck off, epoxy a fresh mahogany tenon, re-cut the mortice - or introduce a fresh dovetail and socket - and re-set.

 

The next involves slipping the heel block. This method is more invoved than all of the above, but negates the need to remove the neck. One problem is that you need to steam/strip a section of back binding and partially peel it back in order to gain adequate access to the back plate and heel block, but the results - if done well - are well worth it.............especially if you have a reasonably valuable instrument.

 

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Is it worth it? Financially, the option your luthier has given is probably the best solution for bye=passing your particular problem, but the new dovetail method would leave you with a stock guitar that looks and plays as good as new and - using suitable glues - resolves the root cause of your problem.

 

The choice is yours.

[Gary Palmer]

 

And highly difficult on older Yamahas. They use a glue that doesn't release with heat/humidity. The modification that your luthier suggests isn't really a great one. Reduces break angle of the strings and will change the tone of the guitar. It's toast, sorry dude.

 

 

It's a very cost effective method of bye-passing a neck re-set.

 

Break angle would typically be adjusted as the modification takes place. This kind of modification isn't uncommon and can give a new lease of life to an instrument who's days would normally have been numbered.

[Brokepick]

 

...Clipped for brevity... If the neck was seated using epoxy glue it can be a devil of a job to sweat out - their are epoxy "killing" chemical available - and there's no guarantee of an adequate end result. ...Clipped for brevity...

 

 

I have a Yamaha with a neck angle that is getting bad. I figured I had nothing to lose by trying to reset it myself. I thought about trying some of the strong solvents like acetone, MEK, methylene chloride, or trichloroethane. Where have you seen those epoxy "killing chemicals" you speak of?

[Gary Palmer]

 

I have a Yamaha with a neck angle that is getting bad. I figured I had nothing to lose by trying to reset it myself. I thought about trying some of the strong solvents like acetone, MEK, methylene chloride, or trichloroethane. Where have you seen those epoxy "killing chemicals" you speak of?

 

 

I'll check my shelves and get back to you asap.