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Is it a good or bad idea to wax an acoustic?


IG0R

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I use a high quality yellow Carnauba wax on my electric guitars. But I'm not sure it's a good idea to wax an acoustic. I don't think wax is recomended for high end string instruments like violins. Something about it filling the pores in the wood. But if a guitar already has a high gloss finish, what would it hurt?

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Wouldn't recommend it, when I have used it (in my younger more ignorant days...) it ended up leaving a smeary mess that took ages to get rid of. As has been said, high gloss should be durable enough and if the guitar is being treated any harder then wax ain't gonna help, my friend!

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To add to all of the above, most guitar finishes will get tiny little cracks and checks over a period of time, wax will fill those with white stuff that you can buff out and make them stand out. Best is to only clean with a damp cloth and maybe a special guitar cleaner (Gibson, Martin and other make them for their finishes). Never use a silicon product, especially if you think it will ever require any finish work (like drop filling a ding). And no lemon oil on nitro finishes.

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Using silicone-free wax sparingly on a gloss finish will do no damage.

 

First use a "damp" cotton cloth to clean the surface. Immediately wipe dry with a second cotton cloth. Apply a tiny bit of wax to a third cotton cloth and wax the guitar finish carefully avoiding those areas you don't want to wax. Then, with a very soft cotton cloth, lightly buff the waxed surfaces to a brilliant shine.. Now, it looks better than new, and it will be much easier to wipe clean in the future!

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I use a little pledge on my guitars. Not often but every now and then. Probably not a great idea but I've always had good results and no ill effects. That said the above advice is the safer course.

 

+1

 

40+ years Never had any problems. I've been polishing my motorcycle with it to. Works great ;)

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Never use polish on a satin finish just a damp cotton cloth.

 

 

Hmm... I pondered over polishing my satin finish for a long time. I finally gave it a go... and I'm extremely pleased with the results; the guitar is no longer "rough" to the touch, and now the finish has a beautiful light sheen. IMHO, it's a huge improvement. Plus, I haven't noticed any difference in tone since polishing.

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Hmm... I pondered over polishing my satin finish for a long time. I finally gave it a go... and I'm extremely pleased with the results; the guitar is no longer "rough" to the touch, and now the finish has a beautiful light sheen. IMHO, it's a huge improvement. Plus, I haven't noticed any difference in tone since polishing.

 

 

My Taylor 555-12 has a satin finish and I just go by what the manual recommends:

 

"satin" (non-gloss) finish. On these Taylors, you don't want to use any type of polish, wax, or Murphy's Oil Soap anywhere on the body, because they can damage the finish. The only polish we recommend for a satin finish is Ken Smith Pro Formula, likely sold wherever Ken Smith basses are sold. Otherwise, simply use a clean, damp cloth to wipe the surface, and follow quickly with a clean, dry cloth. Think of a non-gloss surface as a glass window; if you don't immediately wipe it dry, it will "streak."

 

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Just
play
the damn guitar - that's what it's for. If you want to fuss over something, buy yourself a funny-looking little dog.

 

 

Now,now Krash that was crass.

 

I find that regularly polishing my stain finished guitars is wonderful as it helps build up a thick residue which assists the top in not vibrating, thereby reducing it's tone and volume. - Just wonderful !

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I use a high quality yellow Carnauba wax on my electric guitars. But I'm not sure it's a good idea to wax an acoustic. I don't think wax is recomended for high end string instruments like violins. Something about it filling the pores in the wood. But if a guitar already has a high gloss finish, what would it hurt?

 

 

How hairy is it?

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Now,now Krash that was crass.


I find that regularly polishing my stain finished guitars is wonderful as it helps build up a thick residue which assists the top in not vibrating, thereby reducing it's tone and volume. - Just wonderful !

 

 

I didn't think we were talking about "regularly polishing" or waxing a guitar. Geez, it's not a car! For me, it's simply a one-time thing... and then it's occasionally a damp cloth from that point forward.

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I had a couple of questions for Martin about my new DX1 (solid spruce top, hpl back and sides) and this was their customer service rep's response:

 

"Thanks for contacting us. I will send you the warranty and care and feeding packet that should accompany your new DX1. The bridge pins should stand out roughly 1/16th of an inch off the bridge. This will give longer life to the bridge pins while still providing ample pressure of the string ball ends to the bridgeplate. Do not force them all the way down. I suggest Johnsons paste wax as a coating to protect your top from dirt and stains. It is available at most auto stores. Here are some links to our registration page and temperature/humidity statements. Enjoy the DX1!!!"

 

http://www.martinguitar.com/guitars/technical/humidity.html

 

http://www.martinguitar.com/guitars/register.php

 

Regards,

 

Mr. Carmen A. Cortez

 

CFM Customer Service Manager

 

I still don't agree with wax on a guitar but this is what Martin told me last year (2007), weird. WC

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I didn't think we were talking about "regularly polishing" or waxing a guitar. Geez, it's not a car! For me, it's simply a one-time thing... and then it's occasionally a damp cloth from that point forward.

 

For you it's a one time thing.

For most it's a once or twice a year thing maybe even every three months thing. ( those nasty finger prints ! )

Ten years time you got a goo buid up soundboard.

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I had a couple of questions for Martin about my new DX1 (solid spruce top, hpl back and sides) and this was their customer service rep's response:


"Thanks for contacting us. I will send you the warranty and care and feeding packet that should accompany your new DX1. The bridge pins should stand out roughly 1/16th of an inch off the bridge. This will give longer life to the bridge pins while still providing ample pressure of the string ball ends to the bridgeplate. Do not force them all the way down. I suggest Johnsons paste wax as a coating to protect your top from dirt and stains. It is available at most auto stores. Here are some links to our registration page and temperature/humidity statements. Enjoy the DX1!!!"






Regards,


Mr. Carmen A. Cortez


CFM Customer Service Manager


I still don't agree with wax on a guitar but this is what Martin told me last year (2007), weird. WC

 

 

ever try it? or know of some success stories with it? just got a dx-1 and was interested in this.

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Just take out the back yard, give it a good hosing down and slather some Turtle wax over it; don't worry about the wood swelling up, just stand it next to a hot air vent for a few hours. I sort of like the rippled effect.

 

I just breathe on mine and wipe down with an old T shirt.

 

_______

 

Yamaha LL26

Yamaha LL6

Larrivee L-03SP (for sale or trade)

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Just take out the back yard, give it a good hosing down and slather some Turtle wax over it; don't worry about the wood swelling up, just stand it next to a hot air vent for a few hours. I sort of like the rippled effect.


_______


Yamaha LL26

Yamaha LL6

Larrivee L-03SP (for sale or trade)

Genius !

Love it :thu:

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