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The Apprentice


rickoshea

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I'd need some practice on my bending pipe first though Sean ... knowing me there'd be a nice zebrano fuelled barbeque going if I tried at the minute :facepalm::lol:. Grey - Finn is still missing under the mountain of sawdust produced by routing the radius dishes. I plan an expedition shortly into the depths with my mining helmet ;)

 

Knock - the Rick Astley angle is covered. Its all to do with planning you see. Having been his "tour dentist" I handily have 6 of his teeth here (knocked out when he was twatted by someone who didn't like his manly tone). Thats the bridge pins sorted then :thu:

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the next steps are important to get right ... getting the neck block and heel block in place. They need prepared first to get them close to the dimensions on the plans which involves some sawing by hand (none of that power tool stuff this time sadly :lol:) :

 

the amount to be removed is measured and a line squared across the block :

 

blocks1.jpg

 

and the heel block clamped up using a straight edged block as a fence to guide the saw and give a straight cut (that was the theory) :

 

blocks9.jpg

 

thankfully it actually worked :thu: :

 

blocks8.jpg

 

the same is done with the neck block then the inward facing edges are bevelled :

 

blocks.jpg

 

finally the heel block fit side needs to be radiused slightly to match the slight curvature of the sides at the bottom of the body :

 

copying the curvature from the mold onto the block :

 

blocks4.jpg

 

the curvature is sanded onto the block - it's only slight but you can see it here :

 

blocks2.jpg

 

I'll hopefully get them glued in place over the weekend :thu:

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Tea total here, so I must be doing something wrong.
:lol:

The Crafter may well go when the time comes for his new thickness sander, bench saw, pillar drill and stock of timber.
;)

 

Nice to hear from you again Gary. Hope things are well with you and the family.

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Tea total here, so I must be doing something wrong.
:lol:

The Crafter may well go when the time comes for his new thickness sander,
bench saw, pillar drill and stock of timber.
;)

 

a bench saw .... ohhhh yes lol. Now you know my wife found the receipt for the bandsaw Gary lol :facepalm:

 

ok .... the build. One of the great things about this is solving the problems as they occur, and occur they do. It's all learning (plus having a good teacher helps rather a lot :thu:). I mentioned the sides had sprung back a lot during shipping from CA to France. I wasn't happy with the adaptation to the mold so ... out came this fella :

 

bending_iron.jpg

 

... the bending iron. This was a risk I assure you lol. It involves heating the side wood on the iron (whilst avoiding scorching it) to a point where the wood starts to give and become pliable. You can actually feel this happening, then applying pressure whilst moving the wood to produce the required curve. I had to reshape one side only thankfully and it worked out well :thu:

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Next I decided I wasnt happy with LMI's mold spreaders. Its pretty vital to adapt the sides well to the mold and the spreaders didn't give an even pressure round the sides. Bandsaw time again ;) .... I split them from this :

 

mold_pre_mod.jpg

 

to this and made a longitudinal and a waist spreader from threaded rod inside some hollow rod plus traced the curve of the mold onto some cut blocks to make clamping cauls in the lower and upper bout regions. Gary also advised to raise the mold with removable risers I made out of pine blocks shaped to the mold curve (its not necessary to shape them but I reckon if you're going to do something it may as well look nice too :lol:) Here's the new mould without the clamping cauls :

 

mold_mod1.jpg

 

and the trial fit of the tail block (you can see the 2 cauls either side of the tail block clamped to adapt the sides in this region). Its vital to get this tail block in the centreline, evenly adapted to the sides and at 90 degrees to the horizontal. Theres a square set against it on the left side to check this :

 

preglue_tail.jpg

 

so now (finally) I'm ready to glue the tail and neck blocks :thu:

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I like the contoured risers. :thu: They help centralise the sides to the mold while evening up clamping pressure.

 

Watch out when you're gluing the blocks mate........ Three magic words......grease proof paper. :)

 

She's taking shape very nicely Rick and that bandsaw was worth every minute of your grounding. :thu: I'm grounded for the next 50yrs, but the escape tunnel is progressing steadily, although I'd prefer digging with a larger spoon. ;)

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.... and I may just be grounded for a bit longer now owing to theft of greaseproof paper lol. Fortunately as she's in your neck of the woods at the minute mate I may find time to fill the gap I've left amongst the weird and wonderful assortment of "things" in the kitchen ;) I can highly recommend using spreaders made from threaded and hollow rods to shore up that tunnel of yours too lol

 

..... I love the smell of Titebond in the morning .....

 

the tailblock was glued today after several try-ins. You seem to have to work pretty quickly with Titebond and another thing with guitar building is that you become very adept at clamping "with urgency". As well as the spreader to hold the block in position I used 4 clamps, 2 each top and bottom with cauls cut to size to properly adapt and secure the top and bottom of the tailblock to the sides. Its fixed initially on the worksurface to ensure its at 90 degrees to horizontal then moved to allow fitting the clamps on the underside. Note the greaseproof paper between the sides and the mold to prevent .... well to prevent a total balls up (guitars don't look too nice or sound too great with a mold stuck to them) :

 

tail_block_glue1.jpg

 

I knew my instruments would come in handy somewhere - cleaning up the glue squeeze out first with tweezers and a ball of cotton wool :

 

tail_block_glue3.jpg

 

and finally with what we kindly call a "probe", commonly known as "that bloody sharp pointy thing that my dentist jams into my tooth causing untold agony" :

 

tail_block_glue2.jpg

 

then it's left to set. 2 hours they say - I'll leave it overnight just to be certain :thu:

 

tail_block_glue5.jpg

 

looks like something from the new Star Trek film :lol:

 

next step .... the headblock

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