Members Galabar Posted September 11, 2009 Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 This is an interesting discussion of Takamine G series saddles: http://www.takamineforum.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1727&start=0 Mike Markure talks about the proper way to lower the G series saddle. The bottom line is to not shave it from the bottom. First, remove the shims, and then shave the top of the saddle, if necessary (rounding the top if you take off more than 1/32"). To repeat: do not shave the bottom of a Takamine G series saddle to lower your action! p.s. This does not apply to "Pro" series Takamines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frets99 Posted September 11, 2009 Share Posted September 11, 2009 well that's the first time I heard of doing that... and I'm pretty old... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gary Palmer Posted September 11, 2009 Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 I'd tend to err on the side of caution before assuming one method is the only one. Especially when the prescribed method (As mentioned in the linked discussion) is supposedly related to integrated saddles. Shaving the top of an existing split saddle leaves problems concerning methods of matching an existing radius and crown contours alongside potentially more intonation work than necessary. Get things wrong and there's little anyone can do apart from use a replacement and start from scratch. It's a different kettle of fish in comparison to making a new - matching -saddle from a blank. With blanks the simplest method is to scribe the existing saddle radius onto a blank and remove stock from the radial edge/crown. This leaves the base of the blank square and true while allowing you to match the contour and adjust intonation/compensation. Then fine tune action by removing stock from the base. The simplest method for adjusting split saddles is to measure as you would with a normal saddle, but do so with each string that crosses nearest the open end of each saddle. Then calculate the amount to be reduced, mark the relevant tapers and remove stock from the saddle base. Split saddles take slightly longer than their single piece counterparts, but removing stock from the bottom negates the need for what amounts to more (Almost totally unnecessary) work re-contouring two seperate saddle crowns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gitnoob Posted September 11, 2009 Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 What exactly does it mean for the G-series to have an "integrated" pickup and saddle? Are they electrically integrated? If so, you would think the guy shaving the saddle would have noticed that and not shaved the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Galabar Posted September 11, 2009 Author Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 It looks like the G series (maybe newer models) have integrated saddles, so shaving the bottom will "break" them (as was the case of the OP in the link posted). For most, removing the shims will probably be all that is necessary. Again, the "Pro" series (split saddle) doesn't have this issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Galabar Posted September 11, 2009 Author Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 What exactly does it mean for the G-series to have an "integrated" pickup and saddle? Are they electrically integrated? If so, you would think the guy shaving the saddle would have noticed that and not shaved the bottom. Good point. By integrated, it may mean that the saddle and pick up fit together as one unit, but are separable. The fact that the saddle could be separated from the pickup may have led the OP to think it was Ok to shave it. Given that this is Ok for most other USTs, it is not a bad assumption on the OPs part (IMHO). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gitnoob Posted September 11, 2009 Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 This is still mysterious to me. Revive had a question about replacing the saddle in his G-series with a bone saddle. Is that possible for the G-series? Still not clear on the meaning of "integrated" in this case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Galabar Posted September 11, 2009 Author Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 Here is an example of an integrated saddle from the link above: http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/LR-Baggs-LB6-Acoustic-Guitar-Pickup?sku=307151 It may be the case that the saddle will slide out/separate from the metal base. However, I'm guessing that shaving the bottom of it will "break" the pickup -- it will no longer fit perfectly into the custom-made base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Galabar Posted September 11, 2009 Author Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 I'd tend to err on the side of caution before assuming one method is the only one. Especially when the prescribed method (As mentioned in the linked discussion) is supposedly related to integrated saddles. ... My surprise was that G series Takamines have this integrated saddle (which needs special handling). It seems like they could use a warning on the instrument and/or some advice on their website (I suggested this in the link). Most of use technically challenged guitar players will assume that, if the saddle pops out, we can shave the bottom to lower the action. For a Takamine G series, that turns out to be a big oops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gitnoob Posted September 11, 2009 Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 If I pulled that contraption out of my git, I wouldn't be shaving the bottom. In any case, it doesn't look promising for a bone replacement for the G-series. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gary Palmer Posted September 11, 2009 Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 This is still mysterious to me. Revive had a question about replacing the saddle in his G-series with a bone saddle. Is that possible for the G-series? Still not clear on the meaning of "integrated" in this case. Integrated saddles sometimes have the p'up inserted into a groove within their base, or even captive within the saddle. This makes setting action a little more complex with material removed from the crown and not the base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Galabar Posted September 11, 2009 Author Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 If I pulled that contraption out of my git, I wouldn't be shaving the bottom. In any case, it doesn't look promising for a bone replacement in that case. Me neither. However, if the saddle is just loosely fitted to the metal bottom and pops out like normal, you might not notice. I don't own a G series. However, I'll be sure to take a good look (and research) at any saddle/UST combination before I ever decide to do any work on it (or give the tech that will work on it a heads up). p.s. I'm currently focusing on increasing my use of unnecessary parenthesis (how am I doing?). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gitnoob Posted September 11, 2009 Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 Parenthetically speaking, you're doing OK (but not great (greatness requires nesting)). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gary Palmer Posted September 11, 2009 Members Share Posted September 11, 2009 Me neither. However, if the saddle is just loosely fitted to the metal bottom and pops out like normal, you might not notice. I don't own a G series. However, I'll be sure to take a good look (and research) at any saddle/UST combination before I ever decide to do any work on it (or give the tech that will work on it a heads up). p.s. I'm currently focusing on increasing my use of unnecessary parenthesis (how am I doing?). (Shoving your unnecessary parenthesis up your scrawny arse may actually prove more useful than opting for snide remarks) but unfortunately won't serve any purpose insofar as improving your poor knowledge of musical instrument adjustment. I hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Galabar Posted September 12, 2009 Author Members Share Posted September 12, 2009 (Shoving your unnecessary parenthesis up your scrawny arse may actually prove more useful than opting for snide remarks) but unfortunately won't serve any purpose insofar as improving your poor knowledge of musical instrument adjustment. I hope this helps. Hmm, someone has obviously gone off their meds. I was reffering to my overuse of parenthesis (check out my other posts ). Looking at your posts, I'm only seeing two sets, so I'm at a loss. Also, I don't think I contradicted your posts anywhere, so I'm not sure what you are upset about. Care to share? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kwakatak Posted September 12, 2009 Members Share Posted September 12, 2009 So wait, is this for the acoustic/electric models only? They are not mutually exclusive to the G series IIRC. I tend to think that doing this on a straight acoustic-only guitar would not make sense. BTW - FWIW I've never really been a fan of the G series in general and the split saddle in particular. I also prefer to have bridge pins, thank you very much! *dons teflon skivvies* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Galabar Posted September 12, 2009 Author Members Share Posted September 12, 2009 So wait, is this for the acoustic/electric models only? They are not mutually exclusive to the G series IIRC. I tend to think that doing this on a straight acoustic-only guitar would not make sense. Hmm, I'm almost afraid to respond. Yes, this is for acoustic/electric G series (EG*) only. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gary Palmer Posted September 12, 2009 Members Share Posted September 12, 2009 Hmm, someone has obviously gone off their meds. I was reffering to my overuse of parenthesis. Looking at your posts, I'm only seeing two sets, so I'm at a loss.Also, I don't think I contradicted your posts anywhere, so I'm not sure what you are upset about.Care to share? Never a problem. I often tend to over use parenthesis when providing information and took your comments as a derogatory remarks in my direction. Especially since they immediately followed my previous post and contained three deliberate sets of brackets in comparison to my incidental two. Nothing to do with contradiction or any other references. I stand by my comments per your attitude, couldn't care less in terms of grammatical context, but do care if poor or incomplete information is portrayed as gospel. Older G-series Takamines have normal split saddles set above piezo strips and the integrated versions vary depending upon the system of electronics in use. Happy now or would you prefer the without sugar coating version? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gitnoob Posted September 12, 2009 Members Share Posted September 12, 2009 Well, as a certified noob, I would like to thank both of you for providing enlightening information. It was an interesting discussion (including the parenthetical flame-fest (which I saw as self-deprecating humor)). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Galabar Posted September 12, 2009 Author Members Share Posted September 12, 2009 Well, I'll just chalk it up to a misunderstanding. However, I want to make sure folks understand that this information isn't coming from me. This is from Takamine's Mike Markure, product manager for Kaman music. He states: a) G series Takamines have integrated saddles. b) You can't shave the bottom of them. c) You can remove shims. d) If that is not good enough, you can shave at most 1/32" off the top of the saddle. e) If you need to shave more off the top of the saddle, you need to reshape the saddle. My only addition: a) It seems that folks may not notice that the saddle is integrated, given that the OP in the link above did not (the saddle may not be secured to the integrated UST). b) I was very surprised that this is the case for new G series Takamines (without split saddle or "palathetic" pickup systtem) c) Given (a) and (b) I wanted to give folks a warning (hence, my post). If I succeeded in stopping a single person from "breaking" their G series Takamine, I'll be satisfied. As for my technical knowledge or bad attitude, well, I'll leave that up to the communty to judge me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members koruma Posted March 17, 2010 Members Share Posted March 17, 2010 Hi, I have a Takamine EG345C 12 string, the action is too high for me, specially for a 12 string...I took the saddle out expecting to see the shims, but they weren't there, so I was ready to shave the bottom, but I found it has an odd shape...so I did the research in internet and found this forum...it kept me from ruining my guitar! thanks!I think you still can shave it from the bottom, but it's a little tricky...the poblem is that in the bottom of the saddle there are 6 "theeth", the plastic in these theeth is thinner than the plastic in the crown, so they can fit in the receptacle that carries the piezo transducer, so if you only shave the theeth, the bases of the theeth will not reach the piezo transducer, producing no sound.I think the trick here is also sand the thickness of the saddle above the theeth the same distance that the theeth were shaved, so the theeth can reach the transducer.I will do this on my guitar nex time I change strings...wish me luck!! and I will tell you how it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gitnoob Posted March 17, 2010 Members Share Posted March 17, 2010 Good luck. FWIW, the guy (Mike Markure) who recommended shaving from the top is Takamine's US product manager. He should know what he's talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members taiwanluthiers Posted February 17, 2012 Members Share Posted February 17, 2012 I tried making a bone saddle for it, but since I've never really seen an "integrated saddle" before, I just made a piece of bone that sits inside the clip, it caused the pickup to buzz. I think the bone saddle must be made in the exact same shape as the integrated saddle or else it will not work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members caliwebman Posted October 10, 2015 Members Share Posted October 10, 2015 Ya !?@?uck! Wished I had read this all prior to thinking I could just do it the old standard way. Bummer. Next Question is, where can I buy all the replacements for the Takamine G Series saddle and content that exists between the saddle and the tone pick up bar. If Im not mistaken these have what looks like a spacer but is actually a mandatory piece, it is white and clear and resembles a sort of ladder configuration. Its the same size as a shim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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