Jump to content

Accoustics for multiple rooms


Recommended Posts

  • Members

 

Originally posted by version 3.0

hmm. im going to build everything. so should i just stay clear of diffusion...what ive read about it, it seemed pretty damn important for leveling the room out.

 

 

You could probably skip it in your control room. My hunch is that the round trip from where you mix to any wall might be too short for most diffusors to work properly. It can't hurt to make a few Polys and hang 'em up.

 

Poly: Take a 4' square piece of fairly thin panel(plywood or whatever flexes), mount it to a backer board flexed out about 8-10" and stuff the back so there are no resonances. Paint and hang(sort of heavy so do the right thing there). You could do a few of those. Basically sound hits it and bounces of at nearly infinite angles.

 

You might look into the new recycled cotton(actually old denims) insulation batting. it's about 4 times better performing for sound than regular pink stuff and no eye, skin or breathing protection is required to install. Great for inside walls and cavities. I'm tempted to make a couple wall or ceiling traps out of the stuff soon.

 

 

here, I found a link. I really like this stuff. We're going to be using it at the Fender Studios new construction and on the Lucasoil TV production studio(for those that follow racing) I'm working on too.. I think it would make a great wall unit absorber too.

 

http://www.greendepot.com/-strse-377/Ultra-Touch-R19/Detail.bok

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

It can't hurt to make a few Polys and hang 'em up.

 

 

for both rooms? or just the control room?

 

 

. I'm tempted to make a couple wall or ceiling traps out of the stuff soon.

 

 

oh man i totally forgot, what would you recommend putting on the ceiling in general. and more specifically what do you put on the ceiling where the overheads are going to be placed?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Originally posted by witesol

You could probably skip it in your control room. My hunch is that the round trip from where you mix to any wall might be too short for most diffusors to work properly. It can't hurt to make a few Polys and hang 'em up.

 

 

Skip mid/hi frequency tuning in the control room? Absolutely NOT!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Originally posted by where02190

Skip mid/hi frequency tuning in the control room? Absolutely NOT!!!!!

 

I'd agree on tuning. I think he meant diffusion. Perhaps you'd want to share some information instead of trying to pick out anything of my posts that you think is wrong, that might be more helpful. I've yet to see anything constructive from you on this thread Where02190. Meanwhile, I've typed out an hour worth of information with links and ideas. I believe you to be an experienced engineer, why don't you give up trying to always be right and add something constructive. Your turn my friend...

 

 

Version 3.0: You'd definitely want to do some RFZ treatments and back wall treatments as well. Guessing at the size of his control room since you mentioned it being the smaller of the two I'd make an assumption that it's too small for the full propagation of waves to diffuse. Highs are easy to control, mids on down get progressively more difficult. In really small rooms the RFZ treatments and a few little things are probably all that's needed. A bookcase for example. Any moderately bumpy something on the back wall.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Pretty simple really, if you don't address the mid/hi issues in your room, mainly reflections, your mid/hi response is not going to be accurate. Pardon me for not explaining it in simpleton.

 

For those of you who can't understand why, if you have untamed mid/hi reflections, you'll be hearing them as well as the direct signal from your monitors, which will smear and otherwise (in simpleton terms) screw up the accuracy of what you hear, you'll compensate for it in your mix, and when you go to the car, boat, plane, etc., to listen to it it'll suck, because your control room environment was not properly tuned.

 

IOW, when acoustically tuning a room, you need to address the entire spectrum, not just the low end. If you don't understand this concept, you need to seek the assistance of a professional audio designer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Looks great Ethan! But, what are the trapezoid shaped thingies in the tri-corner on the entertainment side? Are they corner traps with the tips behind the mondos? Seemes like there is some yellow glow light coming from the junction..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

ok. a few more questions.

 

im not at the studio but ill just take a guess at the room size based on the other room. id say about 14 or 13'(length)x9 or 8'(width)x8 or 7'(height). somewhere around that. oh and on the plus side the roof is angled split down the middle, and its an unequal split. :thu:

 

so as far as the traps. the bass traps and the wall mounted traps are made out of the same fiberglass 703 material right?

just the bass traps are diagonal to the corners and somewhat thicker?

 

so would you recommend this for the control room...

 

4 bass traps in the corners

4 wall panels (2 on each spaced out)

and some kind of diffuser opposite of the moniters?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

another quick question. would those "soundproofing" panels work in this kind of situation. you know like the ones that wrap around a drumset, or like the se reflexicon filter for the mic. (in addition to all the room accoustic tweaking as well)

 

and are those things made for reducing sound or more for just focusing sound (like away from other instruments for live)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Originally posted by witesol

Looks great Ethan! But, what are the trapezoid shaped thingies in the tri-corner on the entertainment side? Are they corner traps with the tips behind the mondos? Seemes like there is some yellow glow light coming from the junction..

 

 

Those are Tri-Corner traps detailed HERE.

 

The way my room is set up the tips of the Tri-Corner traps extend down a bit behind the MondoTraps. Also, the MondoTrap on the left rests on top of a large SVS subwoofer, so it's even higher.

 

I have back-lights (basic clip-on drop lights) on a Variac dimmer behind all four corner traps, and also behind the RFZ panels on stands along the side walls. It looks really cool when watching moves at night!

 

--Ethan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Originally posted by version 3.0

the bass traps and the wall mounted traps are made out of the same fiberglass 703 material right? just the bass traps are diagonal to the corners and somewhat thicker?

 

 

703 works well for bass traps, though my traps are based on 705 which is a little better.

 

 

A room that size needs as much bass trapping as possible. Even 12 wouldn't be too many. The more you have, the more accurate playback is at low frequencies.

 

 

Not as well as corner bass traps.

 

--Ethan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Originally posted by where02190

So you're basically saying you have 80% of the room covered in bass traps.


2x4x40=320sq ft.

25x16=400sq ft.


Room must have been pretty {censored}ty before the traps, huh?

:)

 

Very funny post.. :D :D

 

The point is Ethan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Glenn,

 

Excellent post - you nailed it. It's just like everything else in audio. You can buy a mixer that works okay for $100, or you can pay 50 times that and get a mixer that's maybe 5 percent better. A guitar player with a bedroom studio is happy to have the $100 mixer, and there's no reason he or she couldn't make a hit record given a good song and adequate mixing chops. But a pro mastering engineer will gladly pay 50 times more for that last 5 percent, and the small improvement in quality will be well worth the price difference to a real pro.

 

--Ethan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Nothing could be more true when it comes to ad/da converters. I went from a motu 2408 to a ad16. Am I getting a $3000 difference in sound? hell no and I bet the customer could not tell the difference between a motu converter and a ad16. Would I give up my AD16? You would have to kill me first and at that my ghost may come back to haut you. :D :D :D

 

Glenn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Originally posted by myfipie

Nothing could be more true when it comes to ad/da converters. I went from a motu 2408 to a ad16. Am I getting a $3000 difference in sound? hell no and I bet the customer could not tell the difference between a motu converter and a ad16. Would I give up my AD16? You would have to kill me first and at that my ghost may come back to haut you.
:D
:D
:D

Glenn

 

...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

another question as well.

 

for the ceiling should i put 703 panels or should i make one of those warped plywood reflector/diffuser hang? (for the tracking room)

 

and for the control room would it be better to make one fo those plywood reflector/diffusers and put it opposite the moniters or to have a bookshelf loaded with diferent books?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Originally posted by version 3.0

should i make the bass traps out of 705 and the wall panels 703?

 

 

Yes, assuming if it's no more hassle to get two types. Otherwise use either type all around.

 

 

Four inches thick for bass traps, two or four inches thick for everything else.

 

 

Yes.

 

 

How big is the control room? Small rooms do best with absorption.

 

--Ethan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Originally posted by Ethan Winer

Yes, assuming if it's no more hassle to get two types. Otherwise use either type all around.



Four inches thick for bass traps, two or four inches thick for everything else.



Yes.



How big is the control room? Small rooms do best with absorption.


--Ethan

 

 

I was able to get 2" 2' x 4' 705 and 2" 2' x 4' 703. You mention bass traps need to be 4" 2' x 4' 705. Would I get better results doubling up two 2" 705's to make 4" 705's and putting them in the 4 corners, or should I just do eight 2" 705's with say 4 in the corners and 4 in the corners of the ceiling & wall. Basically I have 8 705s and 4 703s so I'm trying to use them in the best possible way in my small bedroom studio.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Originally posted by vanillawafer

I have 8 705s and 4 703s so I'm trying to use them in the best possible way in my small bedroom studio.

 

 

Double up the 705 to be four inches thick. No need to glue them, just stack them adjacent and mount them straddling four wall-wall the corners. Then put one 703 on each side wall reflection point, and the other two side by side on the ceiling at the reflection points to be 4 by 4 feet.

 

--Ethan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

thanks so much for the answers guys. i feel this is now possible without buying super expensive commercially made panels, and contacting like some kind of pro room tuner. :D

 

thanks again. if theres anything else important that i should know do tell me. as for me, im going to get started building. :thu:

 

oh and ps. ethan winer youre a godsend for writing that article.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...