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Sound treatment... Apartment style!


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Hey folks...

 

I've read a lot of different articles and threads around the web about treating your room, but I can't recall reading any that deal with treatment in an apartment or other domicile where you can't permanently affix treatment to walls, can't make new walls, etc.

 

I was hoping that you might have some tips or personal experience with this. I think I've made a lot of pretty decent recordings on the budget gear that I had and I'm now in a position that I can purchase better monitors, pres, compressors, converters, etc. but that won't count for much if I can't make my listening environment become more accurate.

 

I'll take some pictures this evening and some better measurements for you, but the room is barely rectangular and the left hand wall has two rather large windows, both older and crappy. Landlord is a Nazi and I'd have to cover it carefully.

 

Thanks for the help. I'll be back with those pics as soon as I get the chance.

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For treatment, RealTraps (realtraps.com) is a great way to go. You can hang these on the walls just like very large picture frames or mount them on mic stands or order them with stands. I like them, and own six RealTraps Mini-Traps.

 

Some people use Owen Corning 703, which is supposed to be quite useful and cheaper.

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Here is my little apartment studio. It's most of the apartment actually. As you can see, leaving aside the foam, all you need are some hooks in the wall, which is no more than would be the case if hanging some pictures. It's 703 in ReadyTraps DIY bags. So it comes out to a bit over $200 for each three (or two for the 6" thick ones.)

 

FinalStudioLeft.JPG

 

FinalStudioRight.JPG

 

With careful positioning of the listening position and enough traps, even in this fairly small space I get pretty darned good base response. It's not a closed room, just a divided section of the apartment that's open on either side in the back, so it helps with the base response compared to a strictly rectilinear room of this size.

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Hey folks...


I've read a lot of different articles and threads around the web about treating your room, but I can't recall reading any that deal with treatment in an apartment or other domicile where you can't permanently affix treatment to walls, can't make new walls, etc.


I was hoping that you might have some tips or personal experience with this. I think I've made a lot of pretty decent recordings on the budget gear that I had and I'm now in a position that I can purchase better monitors, pres, compressors, converters, etc. but that won't count for much if I can't make my listening environment become more accurate.


I'll take some pictures this evening and some better measurements for you, but the room is barely rectangular and the left hand wall has two rather large windows, both older and crappy. Landlord is a Nazi and I'd have to cover it carefully.


Thanks for the help. I'll be back with those pics as soon as I get the chance.

 

You're talking about sound treatment as opposed to soundproofing, right? As in making your mix environment acoustics more accurate?

 

If so, it's very possible to improve even a small apartment room considerably without having to do any permanent damage.

 

First off, though I do understand and appreciate what panel absorbers do, I recommend foam in your case - because it requires little or no attachment to the walls to get the job done.

 

Don't waste time with thin foam or cheap closed cell foam. It's expensive, but after much trial, error, and measurement I've personally concluded that the most effective, non-damaging treatment for bass modes in a small room is Auralex Mega-LENRDs. Don't waste money on their regular LENRDs, they simply don't absorb low enough to solve the bass mode problems you'll encounter in a small room. I know, I've thoroughly tried and measured both products.

 

Installation of Mega-LENRDs couldn't be more simple and harmless. Just stack them in the corners of your room. They're so large and heavy they can be free standing in the corners without any need for additional hardware. If you want to make them completely stable add a few long thumbtacks like upholstery tacks on the edges just to hold them solidly against the wall. You'd only need 3-4 per stack at most (you really can get by with none), and the small holes can be easily filled with toothpaste when you vacate the apartment.

 

They simply work great, better than anything else I've tried. They're soft so they can't hurt anyone or scratch a guitar, they're very fire resistant. They take up very little of the precious room space in a small apartment, since they fit snugly in the corners where the space was going unused anyway - unlike panels which need to be mounted out from the walls to work well.

 

You can, of course, use panels or membrane absorbers with free standing mounts. I think Ethan makes some panels that mount to a mike stand, if I recall correctly. But with panels you're going to be hard pressed to get the sheer amount of broadband absorption that you do with MegaLenrds, and it's going to cost you more too unless you make them yourself.

 

Your windows may seem a curse, but they are in fact a blessing. Fill them completely with very thick acoustic foam, like Auralex Venus Fly Trap. Put some heavy drapes in front of the foam filled window cavity and you've got some serious broadband absorption - no permanent mounting required (you can either use the thumbtack through the edges trick or glue the foam to very thin plywood which can then be set in the window cavity, the whole assembly being held in place by the thick curtains).

 

Now, you don't want to make your room entirely dead, just reduce the bass modes significantly. So don't put thick foam everywhere, but do use a lot of it at the rear of the room.

 

And don't use thin foam at all. I do acoustics research for a living, and for the life of me I've never found a use for thin foam, unless it's for making a small area sound dead and increasing speech intelligibility. The misunderstanding of what thin foam can do isn't limited to amateur recordists, someone in my field designed a noise trailer and lined the measurement cavity with 1" Sonex. Too bad he was trying to measure 500Hz instead of 5kHz. :freak:

 

It was really kind of a mercy when the foam got so waterlogged and rotten that it fell out on the highway. ;)

 

Terry D.

 

P.S. I'm in no way affiliated with Auralex, Inc. I use some of their products and some of Ethan's product, I know how to measure room acoustics, and I know from hands on experience what each of these products does best.

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You're talking about sound treatment as opposed to soundproofing, right? As in making your mix environment acoustics more accurate?


If so, it's very possible to improve even a small apartment room considerably without having to do any permanent damage.


First off, though I do understand and appreciate what panel absorbers do, I recommend foam in your case - because it requires little or no attachment to the walls to get the job done.


Don't waste time with thin foam or cheap closed cell foam. It's expensive, but after much trial, error, and measurement I've personally concluded that the most effective, non-damaging treatment for bass modes in a small room is Auralex Mega-LENRDs. Don't waste money on their regular LENRDs, they simply don't absorb low enough to solve the bass mode problems you'll encounter in a small room. I know, I've thoroughly tried and measured both products.


Installation of Mega-LENRDs couldn't be more simple and harmless. Just stack them in the corners of your room. They're so large and heavy they can be free standing in the corners without any need for additional hardware. If you want to make them completely stable add a few long thumbtacks like upholstery tacks on the edges just to hold them solidly against the wall. You'd only need 3-4 per stack at most (you really can get by with none), and the small holes can be easily filled with toothpaste when you vacate the apartment.


They simply work great, better than anything else I've tried. They're soft so they can't hurt anyone or scratch a guitar, they're very fire resistant. They take up very little of the precious room space in a small apartment, since they fit snugly in the corners where the space was going unused anyway - unlike panels which need to be mounted out from the walls to work well.


You can, of course, use panels or membrane absorbers with free standing mounts. I think Ethan makes some panels that mount to a mike stand, if I recall correctly. But with panels you're going to be hard pressed to get the sheer amount of broadband absorption that you do with MegaLenrds, and it's going to cost you more too unless you make them yourself.


Your windows may seem a curse, but they are in fact a blessing. Fill them completely with very thick acoustic foam, like Auralex Venus Fly Trap. Put some heavy drapes in front of the foam filled window cavity and you've got some serious broadband absorption - no permanent mounting required (you can either use the thumbtack through the edges trick or glue the foam to very thin plywood which can then be set in the window cavity, the whole assembly being held in place by the thick curtains).


Now, you don't want to make your room entirely dead, just reduce the bass modes significantly. So don't put thick foam everywhere, but do use a lot of it at the rear of the room.


And don't use thin foam at all. I do acoustics research for a living, and for the life of me I've never found a use for thin foam, unless it's for making a small area sound dead and increasing speech intelligibility. The misunderstanding of what thin foam can do isn't limited to amateur recordists, someone in my field designed a noise trailer and lined the measurement cavity with 1" Sonex. Too bad he was trying to measure 500Hz instead of 5kHz.
:freak:

It was really kind of a mercy when the foam got so waterlogged and rotten that it fell out on the highway.
;)

Terry D.


P.S. I'm in no way affiliated with Auralex, Inc. I use some of their products and some of Ethan's product, I know how to measure room acoustics, and I know from hands on experience what each of these products does best.

 

As always Terry, you're a godsend! :thu: Yup, treatment is the order of the day... I know that serious construction is necessary to truly soundproof a room and I've actually never had any noise complaints about working on music... generally it's the DVD Surround Sound has gotten me my two noise-complaints in the 16 months I've lived here, both of which resolved by simply turning it down and no cops involved. :cool:

 

Your window idea might need a bit of tweaking. Is it possible to put the heavy drape right up against the window itself, and then fill in the rest of the way with the foam? Again, I have nazi landlords who gave me {censored} about having certain kinds of blinds or curtains (yet my next-door neighbor can fly his confederate flag :rolleyes: ) so I gotta be careful about things like that.

 

Also, where did you get the MegaLenrds from? Sweetwater only had the regular Lenrds listed, and they ran about $150 for a four pack. I'm assuming that the Megas are at least another $100+? What would you give their dimensions as? I took those pics but need to find my camera cable around here somewhere. I'd be very interested to see what you think my best options would be.

 

Thanks again, folks.

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But you are also going to need to handle the ceilling/wall corners on the walls, not just in the corners. You'll just about have to hang something to do that. You can get the tri-corners by stacking up things in the corners behind the speakers from floor to ceiling, but you can't get the wall/ceiling corners that way.

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Your window idea might need a bit of tweaking. Is it possible to put the heavy drape right up against the window itself, and then fill in the rest of the way with the foam? Again, I have nazi landlords who gave me {censored} about having certain kinds of blinds or curtains (yet my next-door neighbor can fly his confederate flag
:rolleyes:
) so I gotta be careful about things like that.

 

How about a confederate flag then? :idea:

 

j/k

 

What have showing in my control room window is a very nice looking piece of thin, wood grained paneling like you might see on a wood finished wall. Also, it's white so against my house it can't be seen to be paneling from farther than 15 ft or so.

 

That might not be the answer for you, but something using attractive cloth or paneling or even a photograph might work, only you and your landlord know for sure. There's no acoustical problem putting thin curtains against the glass and then the foam w/panel backing or with tacks against that. The only issue is cosmetic.

 

Also, where did you get the MegaLenrds from? Sweetwater only had the regular Lenrds listed, and they ran about $150 for a four pack. I'm assuming that the Megas are at least another $100+? What would you give their dimensions as? I took those pics but need to find my camera cable around here somewhere. I'd be very interested to see what you think my best options would be.

 

MegaLENRDs can be special ordered by any authorized Auralex dealer. I'm sure Sweetwater is one. They're 2ft on a side rather than 1ft like the regular Lenrds. Each MegaLENRD is 2ft long/tall so stacking two in a corner gives you 4ft height, 4 MegaLENRDs gives you a floor to ceiling stack. I ordered mine from my local Guitar Center and I think I paid $200/box which contains two.

 

Terry D.

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Okely dokely...

 

Still can't find the camera cable, but I did take some measurements. The room is approximately 10.5' wide and approximately 16' long, with the ceiling about 7.5' from the floor. With how things are presently configured, I don't quite have 2' on each side of my desk, which is at the far end of the room length. The window (two in one frame) are about 6' wide and 4.5' long.The door into the room is on the rear right hand side and opens into the corner. Currently the left hand rear side has a stack of milk crates, and that's where I keep my music books and magazines. I've got 8 of them filled right now and four more than I can't add to the stack because they'd topple. I also have my office desk right next to the door opening, about 4 or 5 feet away from the "studio desk". I'd like to keep it in here, but if it needs to go into my bedroom I could find a way to do so.

 

At the rear of the room, slightly off center, I have a closet walk in closet that is as wide as the room , but only 3' deep. It's got a regular door on it, and is recessed on each side of said door. Right now I've got my guitar cases (15 of 'em) in one side and my '68 Bassman half-stack in the other. There's some shelving up there that I use for kinda junk storage and old computer parts, shipping boxes, etc.

 

There are four power outlets in the room, one on each wall, and one of them is controlled by a light switch that is next to the computer I'm on right now. Walls are pretty bare and lighting is minimal... two different 5 bulb lamps at opposite sides of the room. Ugly brown carpet and currently just vinyl blinds. I used to have the desk set up against the long wall, but I read that's not the best way to do things re: reflections. My desk is also too close to the wall right now, but I'm getting some speaker stands soon hopefully.

 

That's all I can think of now. Later days!

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I did this exact thing to my second bedroom in my apartment years ago. As has been said, many acoustic panels can be hung using hooks, which most apartments will let you do.

 

I built my panels out of mineral wool and 1x6 boards. I would definitely recommend doing the same, particularly if money is tight as you get the more for your money doing it yourself.

 

Here's some pics of what I did. One thing I had to do was get around the fact that my apartments wouldn't allow anything to be hung on the ceiling (probably wise on their part). I needed a first reflection point panel above the mixing position, so what I did was secure a couple rails to a wall stud on either wall, then make an acoustic panel and attach it to lengths of wood that were slightly shorter than the room is wide. Then I just slid both ends up onto the side rails and it's done, with nothing hanging from the ceiling. You should be able to see what I'm talking about in the pictures.

 

Basstrap4.jpg

Basstrap7.jpg

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36e43cb1.jpg

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Like most folks, I DIY'd my room and everything is installed with small hooks. The wall absorbers (2" 703 on 1.5x1 pine frames for structure and spacing) each hang from two picture frame hooks. The 4 bass traps in the corners (2" 703, three pieces thick for 6"; with the same type of frame) stand on the ground. To keep them from tipping (or earthquakes) they each have a tiny eye hook at the top and there is a small hook screw in the wall. I use a long cable tie between the two and tighten it up until the whole thing is very stable. There is also a 6'x4' ceiling cloud that you can't see which has eye hooks on the frame and is suspended from six cup hooks in the ceiling using white cable ties to pull it up within an inch of the ceiling. The absorber on the door on the left is actually on little brackets that hang on the door (like what you would use to hang closes or a towel) so there is nothing screwed into the door itself. So all in all, I have maybe two dozen tiny holes in the room.

 

For the windows, this is what I did: I cut 703 down to the size of the window frame plus ONE EIGTH of an inch (very important). For the big window (front wall, left side), I used the same 3M adhesive spray that I used to glue my bass traps together to glue pices together to get the right size (that stuff is STRONG). I wrapped the whole thing in fabric and used tape along the edges - so I now had a perfectly sized piece of 703 wrapped in fabric with no framing whatsoever. Then I litterally wedged them into the windows. Makes for a very tight fit and the sound transmission reduction is silly. I live in a VERY VERY quiet neighborhood, but a few days ago my neighbors threw a birthday party outside in the culdesac right in front of my house on the same side of the house as my studio. They had a freakin' P.A. running playing music and guitar hero. Anywhere in the house and it drove me absolutely nuts. But in the studio, even though I might not have been able to record whisper tracks, I probably could have recorded normal/loud vox if I really had to. If I didn't have the hole for the air conditioner I probably WOULD have been able to record whisper tracks! As for asthetics, on the inside I used the same muslin fabric as the rest of my treatment. For the side that faces outside, I got some cheap flowery fabric. From outside the house it just looks like the curtains are drawn.

 

studio_wide.jpg

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Like most folks, I DIY'd my room and everything is installed with small hooks. The wall absorbers (2" 703 on 1.5x1 pine frames for structure and spacing) each hang from two picture frame hooks. The 4 bass traps in the corners (2" 703, three pieces thick for 6"; with the same type of frame) stand on the ground. To keep them from tipping (or earthquakes) they each have a tiny eye hook at the top and there is a small hook screw in the wall. I use a long cable tie between the two and tighten it up until the whole thing is very stable. There is also a 6'x4' ceiling cloud that you can't see which has eye hooks on the frame and is suspended from six cup hooks in the ceiling using white cable ties to pull it up within an inch of the ceiling. The absorber on the door on the left is actually on little brackets that hang on the door (like what you would use to hang closes or a towel) so there is nothing screwed into the door itself. So all in all, I have maybe two dozen tiny holes in the room.


For the windows, this is what I did: I cut 703 down to the size of the window frame plus ONE EIGTH of an inch (very important). For the big window (front wall, left side), I used the same 3M adhesive spray that I used to glue my bass traps together to glue pices together to get the right size (that stuff is STRONG). I wrapped the whole thing in fabric and used tape along the edges - so I now had a perfectly sized piece of 703 wrapped in fabric with no framing whatsoever. Then I litterally wedged them into the windows. Makes for a very tight fit and the sound transmission reduction is silly. I live in a VERY VERY quiet neighborhood, but a few days ago my neighbors threw a birthday party outside in the culdesac right in front of my house on the same side of the house as my studio. They had a freakin' P.A. running playing music and guitar hero. Anywhere in the house and it drove me absolutely nuts. But in the studio, even though I might not have been able to record whisper tracks, I probably could have recorded normal/loud vox if I really had to. If I didn't have the hole for the air conditioner I probably WOULD have been able to record whisper tracks! As for asthetics, on the inside I used the same muslin fabric as the rest of my treatment. For the side that faces outside, I got some cheap flowery fabric. From outside the house it just looks like the curtains are drawn.


studio_wide.jpg

 

Damn that looks pretty nice as well/ From the pic it appears your room might be a bit longer than mine, but it might be an optical illusion. :o

 

How did you make the frames? I saw that the RealTraps company sells empty frames so you can DIY the stuffing and fabric. Since I'm not mechanical that seems a good option, but I'd need to spend $150 just on the frames and shipping.

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Damn that looks pretty nice as well/ From the pic it appears your room might be a bit longer than mine, but it might be an optical illusion.
:o

How did you make the frames? I saw that the RealTraps company sells empty frames so you can DIY the stuffing and fabric. Since I'm not mechanical that seems a good option, but I'd need to spend $150 just on the frames and shipping.

 

I used 1.5"x1" pine from home depot and bought a bunch of nails. I just build a simple frame with right angle cuts. For the corners I used an extra little chunk of wood for stability. That simple. I stapled Weedblock (cheap and effective) to one side of that, laid the 703 on top, and then wrapped and stapled muslin fabric (buy an electric staple gun!!!!!). You can kind of see how the frame and assembly works on this trap in the photo if you look carefully... sorry I didn't take any photos during construction.

 

For the bass traps I added a middle brace because they are 8' tall. I also added a piece of 1/4" foam core to the base of the whole thing just for added stability so I didn't harm the 703 during placement.

 

The most difficult one was the ceiling cloud because it's 6'x4' so I had to add a taught wire on the back between two corners for added strength and to keep it square during assembly.

 

The absorbers have regular picture frame wire on the back for hanging. By using two picture frame hooks in the wall I could put them on studs even if the studs didn't line up exactly... it allows you to slide the whole thing a couple inches and still keep it all level. Also for the absorbers on the wall I used a glue gun to glue little tiny squares of foam to each corner, just so it wasn't sitting directly on the wall and also to increase the air gap to 2" for maximum efficiency (1.5" of wood plus the .5" of foam puts the 2" of 703 2" off the wall).

 

Sorry, typo in my previous post: The large window in the front of the room is on the RIGHT side.

 

I should warn, however, it was a good amount of work. It wasn't technically difficult, but it took time and energy... so at a certain point you have to weigh your time vs. the cost savings.

 

Outside: muslin fabric, stabled down

top: 2" 703

middle: Weedblock

bottom: 1.5" x 1" pine frame.

0218081037-00.jpg

 

0218081036-00.jpg

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I used 1.5"x1" pine from home depot and bought a bunch of nails. I just build a simple frame with right angle cuts. For the corners I used an extra little chunk of wood for stability. That simple. I stapled Weedblock (cheap and effective) to one side of that, laid the 703 on top, and then wrapped and stapled muslin fabric (buy an electric staple gun!!!!!). You can kind of see how the frame and assembly works on this trap in the photo if you look carefully... sorry I didn't take any photos during construction.


For the bass traps I added a middle brace because they are 8' tall. I also added a piece of 1/4" foam core to the base of the whole thing just for added stability so I didn't harm the 703 during placement.


The most difficult one was the ceiling cloud because it's 6'x4' so I had to add a taught wire on the back between two corners for added strength and to keep it square during assembly.


The absorbers have regular picture frame wire on the back for hanging. By using two picture frame hooks in the wall I could put them on studs even if the studs didn't line up exactly... it allows you to slide the whole thing a couple inches and still keep it all level. Also for the absorbers on the wall I used a glue gun to glue little tiny squares of foam to each corner, just so it wasn't sitting directly on the wall and also to increase the air gap to 2" for maximum efficiency (1.5" of wood plus the .5" of foam puts the 2" of 703 2" off the wall).


Sorry, typo in my previous post: The large window in the front of the room is on the RIGHT side.


I should warn, however, it was a good amount of work. It wasn't technically difficult, but it took time and energy... so at a certain point you have to weigh your time vs. the cost savings.


Outside: muslin fabric, stabled down

top: 2" 703

middle: Weedblock

bottom: 1.5" x 1" pine frame.

0218081037-00.jpg

0218081036-00.jpg

 

Chris...

 

Thanks for even more information. I don't own any tools past a screwdriver... I don't even have an electric drill (:o) but I'll check around and see if I can get some help and doing that. I'm sure I've got enough time to do it (as long as I don't post too much on HC :lol: )so for me it's going to be more of a Quality and Cost issue. The less money I have toi pay the better!

 

Terry, you have any more input on this matter?

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I saw that the RealTraps company sells empty frames so you can DIY the stuffing and fabric.

 

 

Folks, I hope nobody minds if I speak up, but this is long overdue. Joel DuBay at Ready Acoustics has intentionally appropriated my company's name, and he has fraudulently posted pot shots at me in forums under assumed names. Full story here:

 

http://www.ethanwiner.com/fraud.html

 

This is not the first time Joel's fraudulent use of my company name has caused confusion, and lately he has taken chutzpa to new heights. If you search for RealTraps on Google you'll probably see an ad on the side with the headline RealTraps. But if you click the link it takes you to the Ready Acoustics web site! This is yet more intentional fraud by Joel DuBay, and it's also trademark infringement.

 

I understand that Joel's cheap Chinese knock-offs of RealTraps are appealing because they cost less than the real thing my company sells. But anyone with a shred of decency should not recommend or buy from Ready Acoustics given their pattern of repeated deceit and fraud.

 

Thanks for listening.

 

--Ethan

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Folks, I hope nobody minds if I speak up, but this is long overdue. Joel DuBay at Ready Acoustics has intentionally appropriated my company's name, and he has fraudulently posted pot shots at me in forums under assumed names. Full story here:


http://www.ethanwiner.com/fraud.html


This is not the first time Joel's fraudulent use of my company name has caused confusion, and lately he has taken chutzpa to new heights. If you search for RealTraps on Google you'll probably see an ad on the side with the headline RealTraps. But if you click the link it takes you to the Ready Acoustics web site! This is yet more intentional fraud by Joel DuBay, and it's also trademark infringement.


I understand that Joel's cheap Chinese knock-offs of RealTraps are appealing because they cost less than the real thing my company sells. But anyone with a shred of decency should not recommend or buy from Ready Acoustics given their pattern of repeated deceit and fraud.


Thanks for listening.


--Ethan

 

Man, that is crazy.

 

To everyone reading the thread, I can personally vouch for Ethan and his advice. He taught me everything I know about acoustics, and worked with me on setting up my room. I also co-moderated his acoustics forum for a while. He's a stand up guy, and his advice is solid and practical. I don't know why some people have it in for him.

 

Hi Ethan. I hope you're not mad at me, I've said hi a couple times on the forums and you haven't responded. It's Tom here. :)

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Man, that is crazy.

 

No kidding. These guys are appallingly unethical.

 

Hi Ethan. I hope you're not mad at me, I've said hi a couple times on the forums and you haven't responded. It's Tom here.
:)

 

Not at all! If I ever miss answering a post you're welcome to email me a link. I'm just so busy these days that sometimes I read too fast, or fail to even visit the forums for a few days.

 

--Ethan

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Folks, I hope nobody minds if I speak up, but this is long overdue. Joel DuBay at Ready Acoustics has intentionally appropriated my company's name, and he has fraudulently posted pot shots at me in forums under assumed names. Full story here:


http://www.ethanwiner.com/fraud.html


This is not the first time Joel's fraudulent use of my company name has caused confusion, and lately he has taken chutzpa to new heights. If you search for RealTraps on Google you'll probably see an ad on the side with the headline RealTraps. But if you click the link it takes you to the Ready Acoustics web site! This is yet more intentional fraud by Joel DuBay, and it's also trademark infringement.


I understand that Joel's cheap Chinese knock-offs of RealTraps are appealing because they cost less than the real thing my company sells. But anyone with a shred of decency should not recommend or buy from Ready Acoustics given their pattern of repeated deceit and fraud.


Thanks for listening.


--Ethan

 

Ethan-

 

Thanks for letting me know about that. I didn't even notice the site/name change- there are so many models and names that are similar I often have to do a double check. Ready Acoustics has been placed on my boycott list. I may not be able to afford some of your items now, but as soon as I can you're name will be on the list.

 

Thanks. :thu:

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It wasn't that hard, but I did have access to a lot of very nice tools (air staple gun, carpentry squares, that sort of thing). Making frames for the panels keeps them square and makes them look nice but it doesn't really increase performance (in fact, you lose a little bit of absorption because of the wood frame covering the sides).


As far as performance, just getting the material in the right positions and in the right thicknesses and density will do the job. All the rest is just for ease of hanging, durability, and looks. So if you can't build frames, maybe you can just wrap the fiberglass or mineral wool sheets in acoustically transparent fabric and lean them up against the walls where they need to go. You'll still need to hang them in the upper spots though.

 

 

That sounds like something I could more easily do. I wonder if I could make them triangular like the MegaLENRDS that Terry suggested and then stack it up to the ceiling.... :idea:

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I didn't even notice the site/name change- there are so many models and names that are similar I often have to do a double check.

 

 

RealTraps was unique among acoustics companies by incorporating the word "traps" into our name. Then Joel DuBay came along and started his company changing one letter of our name to ReadyTraps. I convinced him to change his company name, but he refused to change his product name ReadyTraps. Joel also ripped off our metal frame trap design, selling a cheap knock-off he has made in China. Ironically, Joel's partner Scott Foster publicly criticized our use of metal frames for years. These guys don't have even one original idea between them.

 

Sorry for the tone of my posts here, but this is ridiculous and these jerks need to be exposed.

 

--Ethan

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I just used hanging wire to hang mine. It's pretty easy to do that way. Just loop it around the rear connections. Then you can grab the other end with a pair of needle nose pliers. That'll let you hold it very securely, pull the wire through the hook, pull it nice and taught, and wrap it once to hold it. Then you can put down the pliers and finish wrapping it by hand and then trim the rest. This allows for a nice, tight hold. I figured this out after a number of rounds where I tried to do it by hand or pre-do the loops on both sides and that doesn't work very easily.

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703 is a rigid fiberglass insulation made by Owens Corning. It's a proven and inexpensive absorptive material for acoustics. It's compressed fiberglass insulation, so picture the fluffy pink stuff compressed down into a 2'x4'x2" sheet that will hold it's shape. It also comes in other thicknesses.

 

http://www.owenscorning.com/comminsul/products.asp?product=1

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