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Roller bridge or Graphtech?


mrbrown49

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Hey,

Wondering if any of you had any input. I have an ibanez artist that has a bigsby on it, but I need a new bridge. Should I go for a roller bridge or graphtech saddles. Also, if I go with a roller bridge, what are the pros/cons of a wilkinson style vs the tuneamatic ones? Intonation is very important.

 

Any specific recomendations? I need one with a 12" radius.

Thanks,

Scott

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I installed a roller bridge on my Gretsch 6120. From my experience I would not recommend them. They kill sustain and can rattle a bit. After using the roller bridge for a month, I finally replaced it with the old OEM rocking bar and the difference in sound was remarkable.

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I installed a roller bridge on my Gretsch 6120. From my experience I would not recommend them. They kill sustain and can rattle a bit. After using the roller bridge for a month, I finally replaced it with the old OEM rocking bar and the difference in sound was remarkable.

 

 

Interesting. I forgot about those. How is the intonation with a rocking bridge?

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Hey,

Wondering if any of you had any input. I have an ibanez artist that has a bigsby on it, but I need a new bridge. Should I go for a roller bridge or graphtech saddles. Also, if I go with a roller bridge, what are the pros/cons of a wilkinson style vs the tuneamatic ones? Intonation is very important.


Any specific recomendations? I need one with a 12" radius.

Thanks,

Scott

 

 

Stick with a nashville style bridge with Graphtech stringsaver saddles

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have on and its great it doesnt fookin kill sustain

 

 

What kind of trem does the guitar have?

 

I noticed that on my 6120, the rollers never really rolled. The pressure from the Bigsby was mostly downward. I tired everything to get the rollers to actually roll, but they never did.

 

The rollers had a significantly effect on the tone and sustain of the guitar. The big hollowbody definitely lost sparkle in the high end it was less punchy. Sustain, which can be negatively impacted by a Bigsby, just fizzled altogether. Notice that artists like Brian Setzer prefer the regular tunomatics.

 

I should probably point out that I use 12-56 roundwounds on my 6120.

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Do Graph tech saddles really help with tuning? Seems to me that it the strings, especially the wound ones, get caught in the slot when using a tremelo, they would get caught no matter how slippery the surface is.

 

 

Strings hang up on the hard edges of rigid saddles, not in the slots, which should be super-shallow on a TOM, stirngs should set on top of a saddle and nut (nut slots should be 1/2 the diameter of the string), not inside of it. And yes, Graphtech help phenomenally with tuning stability t the bridge with a Bigsby. It is also important that the nut be well-cut and from a good material. Strings saw right through plastic, the nut should be Graphtech, Tusq, polished bone or Corian, or just about anything but plastic.

 

There is a tonal change with Graphtech saddles, they are warmer than steel, but brighter than brass.

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Strings hang up on the hard edges of rigid saddles, not in the slots, which should be super-shallow on a TOM, stirngs should set on top of a saddle and nut (nut slots should be 1/2 the diameter of the string), not inside of it. And yes, Graphtech help phenomenally with tuning stability t the bridge with a Bigsby. It is also important that the nut be well-cut and from a good material. Strings saw right through plastic, the nut should be Graphtech, Tusq, polished bone or Corian, or just about anything but plastic.


There is a tonal change with Graphtech saddles, they are warmer than steel, but brighter than brass.

 

 

 

Great info. Thanks!

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Strings hang up on the hard edges of rigid saddles, not in the slots, which should be super-shallow on a TOM, stirngs should set on top of a saddle and nut (nut slots should be 1/2 the diameter of the string), not inside of it. And yes, Graphtech help phenomenally with tuning stability t the bridge with a Bigsby. It is also important that the nut be well-cut and from a good material. Strings saw right through plastic, the nut should be Graphtech, Tusq, polished bone or Corian, or just about anything but plastic.


There is a tonal change with Graphtech saddles, they are warmer than steel, but brighter than brass.

 

 

Wow, I type way too fast.

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Just wanted to give this a bump... I'm also curious if anyone out there had had a chance to compare rollers vs Teflon for nuts/saddles.

 

 

BTW... despite the name, GraphTechs do NOT have any graphite... they're impregnated with Teflon! (there's also a teflon version of Delrin too, which I think the Earvana's use)

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anybody use one of these?


http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Electric_guitar,_Tune-o-matic_bridges/Locking_Roller_Bridge.html

I put that on this:

 

34gg0.jpg

 

The original, on mine anyway, had some of the strings were laying on the back edge of the TOM, and I understand this is not supposed to be the case. The roller you show (I think I got mine from GFS) alleviates that problem. It also locks down as opposed to the OEM floater. I find if anything I got a touch more sustain out of it, and I do not have any problem with rattling of the rolloers.

 

It DID NOT, however solve my tuning issues, as it turned out, they were all related to the nut - not cut well at all - took a lot of work for me to get it right, and I ended up overdoing it on one string - now I will replace the nut with graphtech nut.

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GRAPHTECH! Sweet fucking saddles. Have not broken a single string since I installed them on my Warmoth strat which was > 2 months ago. :eek:

Still playing these strings just to see how long they'll last..

They feel really good against my picking hand too.

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I put that on this:


34gg0.jpg

The original, on mine anyway, had some of the strings were laying on the back edge of the TOM, and I understand this is not supposed to be the case. The roller you show (I think I got mine from GFS) alleviates that problem. It also locks down as opposed to the OEM floater. I find if anything I got a touch more sustain out of it, and I do not have any problem with rattling of the rolloers.


It DID NOT, however solve my tuning issues, as it turned out, they were all related to the nut - not cut well at all - took a lot of work for me to get it right, and I ended up overdoing it on one string - now I will replace the nut with graphtech nut.

 

Sounds like your situation is very similar to mine. I already took care of the nut problem. I am not having that many tuning issues, and I am pretty sure the issues I do have are because of the bridge. It came stock with a really crappy TOM with saddles that must be pretty soft, because the strings dig into the metal and leave grooves where the windings are. I can see that being the problem. Thanks for your input, its a big help. For $25 I suppose I should just try it and see if I like it. I get a ton of sustain already, so even if I lose a touch, I can't believe I am suggesting it, but it might be a good thing.

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