Members bad porcupine Posted August 31, 2008 Members Share Posted August 31, 2008 I'm planning on finishing a maple neck with Tru-Oil, and I want to put my own custom logo on the headstock. Unless I spray with clear coat (which I don't want to bother with), the edges of a waterslide will show, because the Tru-Oil just won't build up enough to hide 'em. So, I am looking for alternatives to waterslide... any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Elias Posted September 1, 2008 Members Share Posted September 1, 2008 I guess I might be wondering the same thing. I still want to add a decal to my home build (also tru-oil finish) and hadn't realized that it wouldn't build enough to hide the edges. The only ideas I can think of are elaborate inlays (more work than spraying lacquer), carving (like USACG logos), or maybe branding/ burning. I'll probably make do with the waterslide and tru-oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members snaredrum Posted September 1, 2008 Members Share Posted September 1, 2008 seriously, a waterslide and a bit of clear lacquer and it looks awesome and real. if you want a totally flat finish, use varnish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members HanSolo Posted September 1, 2008 Members Share Posted September 1, 2008 I have seen a guy on ebay advertise cut-vinyl logos. They use "scotchcal" which is very thin and has almost no "edge" when applied. The waterslides are no big deal. I use satin or matte lacquer for a natural look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bad porcupine Posted September 1, 2008 Author Members Share Posted September 1, 2008 I have seen a guy on ebay advertise cut-vinyl logos. They use "scotchcal" which is very thin and has almost no "edge" when applied. The waterslides are no big deal. I use satin or matte lacquer for a natural look. yeah...but I don't want to have to spray lacquer... :poke: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members musicmaker '55 Posted September 1, 2008 Members Share Posted September 1, 2008 I have seen a guy on ebay advertise cut-vinyl logos. They use "scotchcal" which is very thin and has almost no "edge" when applied. The waterslides are no big deal. I use satin or matte lacquer for a natural look. Being in a graphics business for over 25 years based around self adhesive vinyl, I can vouch that the high performance vinyls are quite thin (2 mil). There is a limit to how much detail can be cut out of this vinyl however. Also, even at 2 mil, there is a slightly noticeable raised appearance and feel to any self adhesive vinyl. Pointy edges on the design or copy can with time curl up from handling/cleaning. The only way I've found to produce a nearly flat on the surface graphic is to use either masking vinyl or engraver's vinyl for cutting such small copy and/or logos. This is basically like a stencil. The graphic is peeled out leaving the background as a paint resist or stencil and one or two passes of high quality spray enamel (like Krylon) produces a result almost as smooth to the touch as silk screening the graphic. I would still want to clear coat over a stenciled or screened graphic though. But, that's not mandatory unless you're a clean freak and polish the headstock more than once a week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bad porcupine Posted September 1, 2008 Author Members Share Posted September 1, 2008 The only way I've found to produce a nearly flat on the surface graphic is to use either masking vinyl or engraver's vinyl for cutting such small copy and/or logos. This is basically like a stencil. The graphic is peeled out leaving the background as a paint resist or stencil and one or two passes of high quality spray enamel (like Krylon) produces a result almost as smooth to the touch as silk screening the graphic. In a past life, I used to cut rubylith for making photographic composites (yeah, I'm old), and also used frisket paper for airbrushing and retouching photos (yeah, really really old). So, this is something that interests me. I have not heard of engraver's vinyl; does it allow more detail than regular frisket (masking) vinyl? Where can you get it from? Is there a vinyl frisket that you can print on before cutting? THANKS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members musicmaker '55 Posted September 1, 2008 Members Share Posted September 1, 2008 You think YOU'RE old eh? I remember cutting rubylith and ulano green film by hand for silk screen posters. Tons of copy... took forever to do those! Anyways, I may have "typed too soon" about the engraver's vinyl as I have not had need to use it for quite some time now (over 8 yrs.) and don't know if it's still available. More minutia on vinyl in the PM I sent you. You may find some computer vinyl supply outfits that will sell vinyl by the yard (minimum width is 15"). Actually, any intermediate quality (4-3 mil) vinyl can be used. The basic difference is that the stencil vinyl has a less aggressive adhesive to it making it easier to peel once the painting is done. Regardless, this is magnifier and tweezer work... but your past experience suggests you'd be up for the task. PM me if you need more info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Quarter Posted September 1, 2008 Members Share Posted September 1, 2008 You can blend a water slide with Tru Oil, just takes a few coats, but very doable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members lowbrow Posted September 2, 2008 Members Share Posted September 2, 2008 Great place to get stencils made. I've used them a couple times now and have been very happy with the results...I designed my own art in Illustrator and then e-mailed the file. http://www.best-decals.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.