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Kindness

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  • Ok, so I got it in the mail a few days ago. I also ordered some files for the nut because I need to adjust the height of the strings in the nut on one of my basses. I also got the string radius gauges.

    I'm gonna try do some measurements and adjustments tomorrow night.

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    • This leads me to another point that should be discussed; proper care of your truss rod. It is often good practice with an instrument that has not been taken good care of to completely remove the nut at the end of the truss rod and lubricate the nut and the threads of the rod before making any adjustments.


      I have thuoght about doing this but haven't... because I'm afraid. I have some erlewine books and they show a standard nut (the kind that a regular 6 or 12 point socket would fit over) in the pics where they remove the nut. I am afraid that my truss rods with allen socket heads might not be a nut, but actually a long screw aka the trus rod. I'm afraid unscrewing it would remove the rod, making it imposible to get back in 'cause I couldn't hit the threads all the way at the other end of the neck when it's time to put it back.

      Are my fears justified? Or are the socket head allens nuts too?
      SX SEG1STD,KY1 (CUS22,ASH22,STD24),STL50,SST (57,Ash,SE,LTD2),GG1LTD2,GG6CUS,GG7CUS,SJB75C4+1 (fretted,fretless),SJB (2-57,2-62),SPJ62,2-SB301 (fretted,fretless)
      Douglas Shadow,WRL590,TL100,WOB826,WPB955,2-WPB980
      Brice Z6 (fretted,fretless)
      Agile AL2000 (minihum,prail),AL2500 (Albino,12) ,AL3000 (reg,neck-thru)
      Squier Affinity Tele,Deluxe Jazz V
      Oscar Schmidt OE40
      Raven RP450,Yamaha BB404,Switch Signature Wild IV
      First Act VE591,semi-hollow; PRS SE (Custom, Soapbar II,semi-hollow)

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      • I have no idea what instrument you are referring to in particular and have never seen a truss rod like the one you envision, but if there is something you are afraid of doing, don't do it. That said, I don't expect you'd have the issue you imagine.
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        • I have no idea what instrument you are referring to in particular and have never seen a truss rod like the one you envision, but if there is something you are afraid of doing, don't do it. That said, I don't expect you'd have the issue you imagine.


          Thanks for the reponse. All of my instrument are in my sig, most are SXes, you probably have adjusted most if all of what I have, for somebody if not yourself. So if you can tell me from your experience one that I can for sure remove just the nut, I will start with that one. There may in fact be no problem at all, but my boys (basses) and ladies (guitars) are too precious for me to take a chance on making an uncorrectable error on.
          SX SEG1STD,KY1 (CUS22,ASH22,STD24),STL50,SST (57,Ash,SE,LTD2),GG1LTD2,GG6CUS,GG7CUS,SJB75C4+1 (fretted,fretless),SJB (2-57,2-62),SPJ62,2-SB301 (fretted,fretless)
          Douglas Shadow,WRL590,TL100,WOB826,WPB955,2-WPB980
          Brice Z6 (fretted,fretless)
          Agile AL2000 (minihum,prail),AL2500 (Albino,12) ,AL3000 (reg,neck-thru)
          Squier Affinity Tele,Deluxe Jazz V
          Oscar Schmidt OE40
          Raven RP450,Yamaha BB404,Switch Signature Wild IV
          First Act VE591,semi-hollow; PRS SE (Custom, Soapbar II,semi-hollow)

          Comment


          • Thanks for the reponse. All of my instrument are in my sig, most are SXes, you probably have adjusted most if all of what I have, for somebody if not yourself. So if you can tell me from your experience one that I can for sure remove just the nut, I will start with that one. There may in fact be no problem at all, but my boys (basses) and ladies (guitars) are too precious for me to take a chance on making an uncorrectable error on.


            I have not run into an SX with a nut that was difficult to adjust. As a result, I haven't ever needed to take any of the SX nuts off. I do believe that they are using standard issue truss rods and have not reinvented the wheel. Sometimes there are issues with basses where the access hole to the nut is smaller than the nut itself. In that case, you will not be able to remove the nut, even if you loosen it entirely. I can't remember off hand if that is the case with SX necks or not.
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            • Quick question for Kindness or anyone else who knows. What height should the strings be in the nut on a fretless bass?

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              • They can be quite low. Ideally they should be as low as 0.010" above the fingerboard, but in practice I often keep them a bit higher. You want them high enough not to buzz when playing the open strings and low enough that it is no more difficult to play in the lowest position than it is up the neck.
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                • Ok, that makes sense.

                  The fretless neck originally had a nut that looked like it was setup for a fretted. Almost impossible to play in the place where the 1st fret would normally be.

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                  • huhuh... he said nut...


                    I went to a lighter gauge string, and the slots in the nut (particularly, the A string) are much larger than the strings now.

                    The A string makes a horrible buzz-ish sound when played open.

                    New nut? Or?
                    My Band

                    "If my calculations are correct... when this baby hits 88 miles an hour... you're gonna see some serious s**t!"

                    I've been Bootsied:
                    1/10/2005
                    8/23/2005

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                    • I went to a lighter gauge string, and the slots in the nut (particularly, the A string) are much larger than the strings now.

                      The A string makes a horrible buzz-ish sound when played open.

                      New nut? Or?


                      That reminds me, thanks to my son's fascination with Emprov's avatar and a slip of the tongue by a friend, we no longer refer to Beavis and Butthead as "the rocking guys" in my house, they are now "Beavis and his buddy."

                      The conversation went like this:

                      Son: Look, it's the rocking guys!
                      Friend: Do you know who they are? That's Beavis and B.... ummm....
                      Me: ...his buddy. Beavis and his buddy.


                      New nut.

                      If the current nut wasn't properly slotted and the slots are a bit too high, you can kill two birds with one stone by simply using a lighter gauge file and for each slot to bring the nut slots to the right height. As long as the contact point at the bottom of the slot is the proper gauge, you should eliminate the buzzing. If not, you need to also look at the break angle to make sure there is enough downward force to keep the string seated in the nut.
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                      • If the current nut wasn't properly slotted and the slots are a bit too high, you can kill two birds with one stone by simply using a lighter gauge file and for each slot to bring the nut slots to the right height. As long as the contact point at the bottom of the slot is the proper gauge, you should eliminate the buzzing. If not, you need to also look at the break angle to make sure there is enough downward force to keep the string seated in the nut.


                        Thanks Kindness!

                        Most of that went over my head. But I understood this part:


                        New nut.





                        (I don't think the old nut can be "fixed" to accommodate the lighter gauge at all)
                        My Band

                        "If my calculations are correct... when this baby hits 88 miles an hour... you're gonna see some serious s**t!"

                        I've been Bootsied:
                        1/10/2005
                        8/23/2005

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                        • Thanks Kindness!


                          You're welcome.
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                          • There are a few steps that should be taken each time an instrument is set up. Doing these steps in the proper order is critical to achieve the desired end result.


                            1. Tune the instrument to the pitch it will be played.

                            2. Set the relief.

                            3. Set the string heights.

                            4. Set the intonation.

                            5. Set the pickup heights.




                            Question on going to larger strings (.055-.105 Flatwounds) on my MIK P-Bass.

                            I was able to bring the E A and D string up to pitch, but when trying to get the G string to pitch, it felt like it was going to be too tight, so I backed off. Is there something I should adjust first when going to heavier stings such as the intonation adjustments or put some relief in the neck first? Am I just being paranoid?

                            It seemed pretty well set up with the lighter strings.

                            Thanks!
                            "..all the music in the world isn't worth getting electrocuted for."
                            Aunt Bea




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                            • Unless the rest of your setup is WAY off, there isn't anything you need to do to prepare your bass for the strings. It is a good idea to back off when you think something is funny though. All other variables being equal, larger strings will increase the tenstion, as will most flatwounds when compared to rounds. A 0.055 flatwound G will be ridiculously tight, but if your neck can take it and you like it, go for it. Slowly. And check every few days for the first week or two to make sure the truss rod is holding its position against those strings.
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                              • So do you think that I should loosen the truss rod a bit (just to be safe) since the extra tension of the flatwounds should bow the neck a bit anyway?

                                Then see if I can get it up to pictch, then set the relief as needed?


                                Thanks!
                                "..all the music in the world isn't worth getting electrocuted for."
                                Aunt Bea




                                Founder - G&L Militia
                                G&L Militia
                                Squier Army
                                Member of the SG Army
                                Bad Monkey Club

                                My Guitar Stuff

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