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Remember that build I was gonna do?

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  • #16
    The best looking combo I've ever had is Koa binding on EIR sides and Sitka top. The Pauduk would be a binding wood for me. Otherwise, the Myrtle B&S guitar I played at GC yesterday wasn't what I'd call the prettiest combo but man did it sound good.
    - The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule it. - H.L. Mencken

    - Yet, in holding scientific research and discovery in respect, as we should, we must also be alert to the equal and opposite danger that public policy could itself become the captive of a scientific-technological elite. - President Eisenhower in his Farewell Address

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    • #17
      Given that Madagascar rosewood stoked my GAS recently (I love the reddish orange color) I was actually wondering how pauduk fares for back and sides? LMI describes it as an alternative to rosewood (being slightly cheaper) though slightly harder to work with.
      Gear:
      2013 Official Luthier's Forum Medium Jumbo (Western red cedar/mahogany)
      2012 McKnight McUke (soprano ukulele, redwood/mahogany)
      2010 Martin D-16GT
      2006 Larrivee OM-03R
      1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (natural ash finish)
      1989 Kramer Stryker
      197? Epiphone Texan FT-160N

      Comment


      • #18
        Tonight I went over to my friend's place and FINALLY bent the sides. EIR bends as easily as others have told me it would. It's like the stuff is made of rubber.

        For those who haven't followed a build thread before, bending the sides requires heat and little water. Some woods require more heat than others, some woods require more time to work the bend. In this case, i used a Fox bender with a silicon heating blanket, two thin steel slats, a variable switch, a timer, a meat thermometer, some brown shipping paper and a spray bottle of water. You spray a little water on the wood, wrap it in the paper and then surround it with the steels slats and lay the blanket on top. Put the '"sandwich" in the bending apparatus and plug it in. When you start seeing steam (around 212 degrees) you clamp down the waist then the lower bout and then upper. Let it heat up to 300 degrees for 5-7 minutes then turn off the heat and let it sit and cool for 30-45 minutes.

        Take it out, prepare the next side similarly but orient it so that it bends the opposite way (so that you don't have two left or right sides because the back of the body will have a taper.

        The first side is clamped in the mold but it was getting late and snowing like the Dickens so I unplugged it and left it in the bending apparatus so that I could brave the roads. Sorry no pictures yet. Next up: installing reversed basswood kerfing and the end blocks.
        Gear:
        2013 Official Luthier's Forum Medium Jumbo (Western red cedar/mahogany)
        2012 McKnight McUke (soprano ukulele, redwood/mahogany)
        2010 Martin D-16GT
        2006 Larrivee OM-03R
        1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (natural ash finish)
        1989 Kramer Stryker
        197? Epiphone Texan FT-160N

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by kwakatak View Post
          Next up: installing reversed basswood kerfing and the end blocks.

          Looking forward to hearing about this, and glad to hear you're still building. Hope you and the little kwaks are doing great.

          Comment


          • #20
            Weather here has sucked so bad that I can't brave the trip across the highlands to my friend's place to the south. The sides have sat as we left them over 2 weeks ago. Since he doesn't keep the space heated regularly I opted to just trim the excess and just clamp the sides back into the mold. I have some TItebond that is still usable but I'm concerned that if I were to glue up the blocks and let it sit in a space under 40 degrees for a few weeks before I can go check on it again or bring it back home where I can't maintain humidity levels above 20% because the heat is always on.

            I can't take pictures but rest assured, I have something that's starting to look like a guitar. Once I'm financially able I think I may go looking for a hardshell case that I can keep my completed guitars and move this one into . Then I can potentially get it back on track.

            Meanwhile, my friend has had some local walnut aging for the past five years in the crawl space above his studio It may be ready to resaw. He and I were talking and he's getting building bug again so if he gets it resawed our next builds would be with it. He loves building the boxes but just hates doing the initial setup. I can relate. My first build was unplayable before I took it with me to visit Tim McKnight. Now my friend and I are planning a trip east to visit John Hall this summer to do the same with 2-1/2 of his builds (his fourth build is in the binding stage, his #3 was a commission and is with its owner) so the goal is to get this one together by then.
            Gear:
            2013 Official Luthier's Forum Medium Jumbo (Western red cedar/mahogany)
            2012 McKnight McUke (soprano ukulele, redwood/mahogany)
            2010 Martin D-16GT
            2006 Larrivee OM-03R
            1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (natural ash finish)
            1989 Kramer Stryker
            197? Epiphone Texan FT-160N

            Comment


            • #21
              Necro-bump: I had to dig through the search function to even find this thread. Sometimes I miss vBulletin.

              Anyway, sides were bent back in the middle of winter. I glued in the blocks and then the kerfing but I had to go back and undo those two steps because I was working at it too late at night and made mistakes. The kerfing was glued short of the edges of the sides, meaning that after I was done sanding the rims I'd have a guitar much shallower than I'm going for. The blocks were also off center, which would have really complicated figuring out the neck angle so I chiseled all the kerfing off, scraped the glue off then steamed off the blocks.



              This morning I measured, drew in guide lines then glued the neck block back in. I'll do the tail block later tonight once the neck block is set. Then I'll move on to redoing the kerfing tomorrow night, once I go over the plans and mark the true edge of the tapered back.
              Gear:
              2013 Official Luthier's Forum Medium Jumbo (Western red cedar/mahogany)
              2012 McKnight McUke (soprano ukulele, redwood/mahogany)
              2010 Martin D-16GT
              2006 Larrivee OM-03R
              1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (natural ash finish)
              1989 Kramer Stryker
              197? Epiphone Texan FT-160N

              Comment


              • #22
                Meanwhile, I'm also rough cutting the bracing...



                Gear:
                2013 Official Luthier's Forum Medium Jumbo (Western red cedar/mahogany)
                2012 McKnight McUke (soprano ukulele, redwood/mahogany)
                2010 Martin D-16GT
                2006 Larrivee OM-03R
                1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (natural ash finish)
                1989 Kramer Stryker
                197? Epiphone Texan FT-160N

                Comment


                • #23
                  Kwak,If you can get ahold of that git, take a caliper and measure the thickness of the top in many areas. Measure the heights and thicknesses of all the braces, especially the top. Doing this will give you your best copy possible and hopefully imitate their sound.

                  BigAl
                  Instruments:
                  Custom Dreadnaught Solid Hog

                  Comment


                  • kwakatak
                    kwakatak commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I wasn't sure which guitar you were talking about? if it's that old Olson dread it lives out in Wyoming with its owner. Instead, what I'm going to do is approximate the bracing pattern of my first build along with the abutted upper transverse brace a la Ervin Somogyi only this time the X brace will be 1/4" thick instead of 5/16". As you know, I love the Martin HD-35 and I'm hoping that the 4-1/2"'deep body retains the bass rumble but with the focus of a jumbo because of the tighter waist.

                • #24
                  Good to see you building again, Neil.

                  Comment


                  • #25
                    ^ Yeah, glad to see you haven't given up on it. Keep us posted.
                    Official HCAG “Theory-Challenged Hack”
                    Member of the IBANEZ ACOUSTIC ASSASSINS
                    Proud Member of The Alvarez Alliance
                    Member of the Schecter Society
                    Person-2-Person on the Web

                    Comment


                    • #26
                      I wasn't about to give this one up - and truth be told I was kind of hoping that it would draw out some of our fellow tinkerers. This forum has been so dead lately it's depressing.

                      Anyway, the neck block is glued back on but I'm waiting until tomorrow to glue in the tail block. I need to take it out of the mold to do that because there just aren't many good points to clamp all four corners of the block; the mold is only 3" deep whereas the sides are about 4-3/4". Sure, I could use a cawl but the sides have lots of play the way it is and I already split one of the sides. As with my Larrivee, thank God for east Indian rosewood's dark grain and pliable qualities!

                      Meanwhile, I just cut more shellac to use as a wash coat on the soundboard and have fashioned a homemade circle cutter using a nail, a popsicle stick and an Exacto knife blade. I don't know if my chisel is quite narrow enough to rout out the central herringbone ring so I have my Dremel with several 2 flute downcut bits that I bought online.

                      I'm proceeding VERY slowly. Sorry no pics, my iPhone took another dunking and I'm a bit tense about it.

                      OT: The iPhone still works but I turned it off and put it in a bag of rice. I'm not touching it for at least three days. My wife says if it dies I go back to having a flip phone because this iPhone replaced one that took a dip in the washing machine thanks to my autistic son's fascination with it and running water and my general absentmindedness when it comes to the whereabouts of my things at any given moment. .
                      Gear:
                      2013 Official Luthier's Forum Medium Jumbo (Western red cedar/mahogany)
                      2012 McKnight McUke (soprano ukulele, redwood/mahogany)
                      2010 Martin D-16GT
                      2006 Larrivee OM-03R
                      1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (natural ash finish)
                      1989 Kramer Stryker
                      197? Epiphone Texan FT-160N

                      Comment


                      • #27
                        I glued in the tail block this afternoon. I don't think it's crooked this time, but if it is I'll just steam it off again.

                        Meanwhile, I've been working on the rosette. The popsicle stick circle cutter is good for cutting out the initial line but still leaves room for guesswork with regards to the depth of the channels. Scoring the outlines seemed to help somewhat but I opted to used my Dremel with a double fluted downcut bit to do the job on the main herringbone ring the right way. The Dremel brand router stand/circle cutting jig doesn't go small enough to do the inner rosette ring though. I'll need to work very carefully by hand on that ring.

                        I also tried to whittle way at the thickness of the back the other night too. It's over 1/8" thick. I'd like to take it down by 1/3 but using a bench plane to do that has really been a hassle.
                        Gear:
                        2013 Official Luthier's Forum Medium Jumbo (Western red cedar/mahogany)
                        2012 McKnight McUke (soprano ukulele, redwood/mahogany)
                        2010 Martin D-16GT
                        2006 Larrivee OM-03R
                        1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (natural ash finish)
                        1989 Kramer Stryker
                        197? Epiphone Texan FT-160N

                        Comment


                        • #28
                          OT: I've been trying to get my 8yo involved. He's been giving everybody a lot of trouble but shows an interest in music. Since my guitars have been taking such a beating when he and his brother are around I've tried to interest him in other musical instruments that can take more of a pounding - literally. So last winter I bought the keys for a 2 octave xylophone from the local Rockler along with a 3/4" thick board of padauk. I ripped it into 1" wide planks a couple of weeks ago and am in the process of trying to figure out how to mount them so that they ring out without being muted by the mounting screws.

                          Here he is hamming it up between sessions of telling me what to do (he gets that from his mother) and how what I'm doing is wrong. You gotta love kids.

                          Gear:
                          2013 Official Luthier's Forum Medium Jumbo (Western red cedar/mahogany)
                          2012 McKnight McUke (soprano ukulele, redwood/mahogany)
                          2010 Martin D-16GT
                          2006 Larrivee OM-03R
                          1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (natural ash finish)
                          1989 Kramer Stryker
                          197? Epiphone Texan FT-160N

                          Comment


                          • #29
                            *Phew!*

                            Both blocks and the new reversed kerfing are all glued in. Things look like they should have last week when I did these steps the first time. Now on to finish inlaying the rosette. It could be going a little better but I don't have the best circle cutting jig. I'm going to be using a LOT of extra purfling strips.
                            Gear:
                            2013 Official Luthier's Forum Medium Jumbo (Western red cedar/mahogany)
                            2012 McKnight McUke (soprano ukulele, redwood/mahogany)
                            2010 Martin D-16GT
                            2006 Larrivee OM-03R
                            1998 Fender American Standard Stratocaster (natural ash finish)
                            1989 Kramer Stryker
                            197? Epiphone Texan FT-160N

                            Comment


                            • #30
                              Couple of tricks you probably already know - paint a little shellac around the area where you'll cut the purfling - it helps keep the spruce from tearing out. And I use a crappy little circle cutter for my dremel - as long as I go slow and use a sharp bit it does OK. Cut all the grooves for rosette and purfling, then cut the soundhole last. Good luck, I'll be thinking of you.

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