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Which gauge of strings should I use on 12-string guitars? Tune it to E-flat?


MattTheBrat

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I looked at the Taylor site and saw that even they put lights (which are '10s' instead of '12s' in the 12-string world) on their instruments. See, I use a '13' gauge set on my 6-strings but am here to ask you all: should I use a '10' gauge set for 12-string guitars?

 

I also have always heard from some folks that one should tune their 12-string a half step down because otherwise the neck bows and the bridge pulls out. They say that I can use a capo on the first fret to stay in standard tuning and not pull too much on the neck. I don't like the idea of using a capo to play in standard tuning. With '10' gauge set of 12-strings, can't I get away with standard tuning?

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Hi Matt,

Yes you can get away with using standard tuning if you use light guage strings on the Taylor. I use 12's as well except on a 12string I use lighter.

You can also tune down a whole step and you can play with others in standard tuning. (If someone is in the key of C, play in D etc...)

You may really enjoy the sound of a 12 string tuned lower. I know I do.:)

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I normally like to use 13 gauge on my acoustics.

 

Anyway, I was trying to see if using 10's are the thing to do with 12-strings in standard tuning, or if I can get away with 11's?

 

Another question for y'all? Why are Exiler and D'Adarrio 10s considered light for 12 strings whereas with Martin strings, 12s are considered lights? What's the deal with that? Aren't 10s the best gauge to use for 12 strings?

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Here's a switch. I tune to D (whole step) and use Darco extra light strings (.010) but replace both E .010s with .012s. The .012s play better than .010s at that tension. With low tuning, low action and aggressive playing the .010s can buzz easily. Especially for me because I use the little finger on that string and have a habit of plucking it outward, away from the soundboard. It hits the fretboard on the return (buzz) and heavier strings don't do that as much. That and a little discipline helps keep the sound cleaner.

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It's not a question of thickness, it's a question of tension...a medium set on a 12er tuned down to "D" will put out about the same amount of tension ("drive the top") as a light set at standard ("E").

 

Now, tuning lower will make the 12er seem to have more bottom, but a decent 12er (and Taylor, along with Guild make THE best 12ers) will have plenty of bottom, as it is. "Budget" 12ers usually have a whimpy bottom end, as they're over-built to compensate for less impressive materials.

 

I tune my "standard tuned" 12er (Taylor 355) to "E" with light guage Poly's from .010 to .047, my "Open G" 12er (a Guild F-212XL) has medium 1st, 5th and 6th, light 2nd, 3rd, 4th Polys and my "Open D/DADGAD" 12er (another Guild F-212XL) has medium 1st, 2nd and 6th, light 3rd, 4th and 5th Polys, so all 3 "feel" like light guage, and all 3 sound great. And, no, modern quality 12ers are designed to be tuned to standard...it won't hurt 'em a bit! My Guild's are each over 25 years old, my Taylor about 6.

 

Incidently, another drawback to tuning lower is the inability of some/many other musicians to follow what you're playing...much like using a capo will throw these folks into a tizzy! ;)

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Matt, if you look at the Taylor site their warranty says (quote)

 

STRING GAUGES

For the best tonal qualities, we recommend using medium-gauge strings on your Dreadnought or Jumbo six-string, and light-gauges on your Grand Concert or Grand Auditorium. On Taylor 12-strings other than the Leo Kottke Signature Model (LKSM), use light- or medium-light strings, with gauges ranging from .010 to .011 for the high E string, and from .047 to .049 on the low E string.

 

The LKSM comes with factory-installed, heavy-gauge strings to accommodate the lower tuning, and should be tuned no higher than C#. You may use the gauges mentioned above if you tune your LKSM to standard pitch. Experimenting with different gauges might require additional adjustments to your guitar. Call our customer service department for details or information.

 

 

The Kottke set that they recommend is (quote)

 

The strings for the LKSM are Elixir custom gauges, tuned to C#: .013/.013, .017/.017, .030/.014, .038/.018, .047/.026, .056/.035.

 

I personally like to tune my D12-28 down two half steps to D, then down from their to the various equivalents of open C, D and G. I have been using Elixer mediums .012/.012 to .053/.024 and have been pretty satisfied for fingerpicking and slide. Most 12 string manufacturers will warrant their guitars tuned to concert with lights but many 12 string player routinely tune down one, two or even three steps. With their dual truss rods people tune their Guilds to concert but for everything else I would be careful.

 

The stress on the top of a 12 is incredible - the bridge on my Martin had pulled up slightly and one top brace was loose. Many older 12s have neck problems and/or the top bellyed. Why risk damage to your 12 string by tuning to concert when you can always capo up if you want to sing or play with someone else. Besides, I much prefer the growl of a C# 12er to the jangle of one at E

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Freeman, I totally agree.

 

The Guild 12ers are protected by the double struss rod, practically all others run the risk tuned to standard, over time.

 

The last time I had a 12er was in the late 80's, an Alvarez -total POS. The nut was disintergrating. The action was high enough to cut cheese, meat ,maybe even a decapitation or two, and by the time I got it you could see the top was on the path to becoming the aforementioned "conceptual art".

 

I too, want to have my 12er roar rather than whine. I said it once, I'll say it again, a 12er forum would be nice.

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  • 15 years later...
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String tension is always an issue on 12 string guitars. The tops on most are braced more than their 6 string counter parts. Proper storage and and humidification will help keep the top,bridge and neck in proper playing shape. I would suggest detuning if you are going to store the guitar for over 3 months. Keep it in the case in playing position in a interior closet.Again proper humidification is always the most critical part of keeping an acoustic instrument in great shape.  

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