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Home made Les Paul

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  • Does that mean that you're going to build a LP for every one of us who supported you in the process? Come on! PLEASE?


    +1
    GuitarHeads: http://www.guitarheads.orgSome of My Music: Scott Abene - Reverb Nation"Ich bin Jung und brauche das Geld"-Eko Fresh

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    • This is looking great, Freeman! A good burst is hard to find, hard to do, and hard to beat. And that is a beautiful burst!


      Great looking guitar!

      AJC



      He almost works as fast as you, AJ!

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      • Since we've decided we can't be good and wait for the paint to dry, lets screw some hardware on this thing. Ream the holes for the tuner bushings



        and screw 'em down. I took the hole spacing from the plans - its a little on the tight side



        and install the bridge and tailpiece



        With tuners on it I can start making the nut. Fit the unbleached bone blank to the slot and mark in 0.115 from the sides of the fretboard



        Strings aren't evenly spaced on centers but rather equal space between the outside diameters. You can do the math and measure but this cool spacing rule gets it right from the get go



        Cut some starter slots with a 0.010 saw



        and mark the "zero fret" line with a half round pencil. I want to approach this line as I cut the slots



        Next it is just a matter of cutting each slot with the correct sized file - the files are rounded at the bottom at diameter of the string and kind of vee shaped which relieves the top of the slot from binding



        With a set of cheap strings on the guitar (they will get trashed during the setup process) I keep check the slot depth both with feeler gauges and by fretting the string at 3 and making sure I have a hair of clearance at 1



        I'll leave the nut action just a bit high, it is much easier to take it down than to raise it back up. Last step is to bring the top of the nut down to near the strings and polish it

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        • Freeman, I don't understand this:

          and mark the "zero fret" line with a half round pencil. I want to approach this line as I cut the slots

          Awesome work, BTW.

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          • Freeman, I don't understand this:

            and mark the "zero fret" line with a half round pencil. I want to approach this line as I cut the slots

            Awesome work, BTW.


            It just shows what the fret height is in relation to the nut. Used as a guide to shaping and slotting (depth) the nut

            Great Job on this build!
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            • Freeman, I don't understand this:

              and mark the "zero fret" line with a half round pencil. I want to approach this line as I cut the slots

              Awesome work, BTW.


              As Atrox says, that is where a fret would sit right in front of the nut. Some guitars have a "zero fret" - the nut slots locate the strings from side to side but a piece of fret wire actually sets the height. I have taken an ordinary wood pencil to my belt sander and sanded half of it away, when I lay it on the first couple of frets it will extend their height back to the nut. In theory I want the bottoms of the slots exactly at that line, however I approach it slowly and use the other two measurements do check (a feeler gauge on the first fret and putting a capo on the 3rd I tap the string over the first fret and listen for a little ping).

              You'll see how the nut height works with the other parts of the setup in the next exciting episode......

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              • As Atrox says, that is where a fret would sit right in front of the nut. Some guitars have a "zero fret" - the nut slots locate the strings from side to side but a piece of fret wire actually sets the height. I have taken an ordinary wood pencil to my belt sander and sanded half of it away, when I lay it on the first couple of frets it will extend their height back to the nut. In theory I want the bottoms of the slots exactly at that line, however I approach it slowly and use the other two measurements do check (a feeler gauge on the first fret and putting a capo on the 3rd I tap the string over the first fret and listen for a little ping).

                You'll see how the nut height works with the other parts of the setup in the next exciting episode......


                Gotcha'. Interesting approach. I just do the feeler gauge when cutting nuts.

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                • Gotcha'. Interesting approach. I just do the feeler gauge when cutting nuts.
                  Both work, but it's much easier to work quickly when you have an obvious visual reference. You'll never cut one too low this way.

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                  • Both work, but it's much easier to work quickly when you have an obvious visual reference. You'll never cut one too low this way.


                    It is really helpful to have the reference when working on a 12 string.

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                    • Excellent example of how good a product can come out when the proper experience and research has been done.
                      dharmaforone.bandcamp.comListen to my music and such.Strat - Jazzmaster - Bunch of fuzz and delay pedals - map.

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                      • It is really helpful to have the reference when working on a 12 string.
                        I haven't had the pleasure yet, but it's bound to happen.

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                        • I haven't had the pleasure yet, but it's bound to happen.


                          When you do, let me know. There are a bunch of tricks for setting up a twelve string - spacing, nut depth, intonation, etc. Mine have each string of each course compensated individually - the saddle looks like a rip saw blade but they play in tune. Lots of people feel that a 12 is hard to play - set up correctly they can be a pleasure.

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                          • Time for Electrickery

                            First I needed to hog out the switch and control cavities. I should have done this a long time ago, at least before I started the finish. Oh, well. Using the Forstner bit at approximately the same angle as the top and carefully measuring the thickness so the pot shafts would all stick out the same amount



                            I prewired the switch and mounted it



                            Installed the pickups (no picture, sorry) and the pots (notice how I cleverly wrote on each pot what its function was - since everything is upside down and backwards it would be real easy to do something stupid)



                            and wired them all together following the schematic that came with the parts.



                            Incidently, I'm using the Parson Street humbuckers - they are half the cost of Gibson or some others and right now I wouldn't know the difference. As I get wiser I could always change them. I also just bought the basic wiring kit from StewMac - standard 500K pots, 0.02 mf caps, some shielded and unshielded wire. I did do the trick of reversing the switch and pickup wires which means that if both pups are selected turning a volume control down won't turn the whole thing off.

                            I also had one other brain fart at this time - I knew I needed to drill a hole for the wire to the "string ground" at either the bridge or tailpiece stud, but I had totally spaced it. I did it now (again, sorry, no picture) but realized that there is no way to connect to the stud so I just pushed the wire tight against in and super glued it in place. If I get string hum I'll have to pull the stud, fan the wire out and reset the stud so it makes better contact.

                            This doesn't look like a lot but it took most of the day last saturday. Next, a little set up

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                            • bravo. looks great!

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                              • I can't wait to see the finished guitar, it looks fantastic so far.
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