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  • Switching between wireless and wired

    Hi.

    Just designing my rack up. I want to know if there is anything rack on the market that will allow me to switch to a wired connection in the event of my wireless going south. Essentially a rack panel with a jack on the front for my guitar, a switch to flick over instantly and on the back, appropriate connections for the wireless input and the master output.

    Anything like this exist? Or should I just make it myself?
    Zazas Zazas Nasatanada Zazas

    Good transactions:
    StevePage (b)
    Deadeye Dom (s)
    Maiden_Fan (s)
    metareal (s)
    YourGuitarHero (b)
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    ¤ Matt ¤ (s)

  • #2
    Voodoo Lab GCX could do it...

    Comment


    • #3
      Easy to do,

      Most jack sockets have extra terminals (normally closed switching contacts), which allow the the signal to pass through when there is no jack in the socket.

      Just wire one of these in line using screened cable. As soon as a jack is inserted, it will bypass the connection from the wireless receiver, and connect your wired guitar directly to the amp. With no jack in the socket, the signal passes straight through from wireless receiver to amp.

      You could mount the socket on a 1u panel, but like I said, be sure to use screened cable to reduce hum.

      Comment


      • #4
        Easy to do,

        Most jack sockets have extra terminals (normally closed switching contacts), which allow the the signal to pass through when there is no jack in the socket.

        Just wire one of these in line using screened cable. As soon as a jack is inserted, it will bypass the connection from the wireless receiver, and connect your wired guitar directly to the amp. With no jack in the socket, the signal passes straight through from wireless receiver to amp.

        You could mount the socket on a 1u panel, but like I said, be sure to use screened cable to reduce hum.


        Interesting... what kinda jack socket do I need? Just a regular stereo?

        Edit: Nevermind, just used my head; a standard stereo will do it won't it as it has the contact plates... Cool stuff, I'll use that.
        Zazas Zazas Nasatanada Zazas

        Good transactions:
        StevePage (b)
        Deadeye Dom (s)
        Maiden_Fan (s)
        metareal (s)
        YourGuitarHero (b)
        Ratae Coritanorum (b)
        ¤ Matt ¤ (s)

        Comment


        • #5
          Easy to do,

          Most jack sockets have extra terminals (normally closed switching contacts), which allow the the signal to pass through when there is no jack in the socket.

          Just wire one of these in line using screened cable. As soon as a jack is inserted, it will bypass the connection from the wireless receiver, and connect your wired guitar directly to the amp. With no jack in the socket, the signal passes straight through from wireless receiver to amp.

          You could mount the socket on a 1u panel, but like I said, be sure to use screened cable to reduce hum.


          WWWAAAAY better idea than mine...

          Comment


          • #6
            Nice one, should do exactly what you want.
            I used the same method to make a custom patchbay for my rack.

            Any jack socket will do, as long as it has the through contacts.

            Comment


            • #7
              I just use the input switcher on my Korg DTR 2000 to go between my wireless and a wired bass.

              Comment


              • #8
                I just use the input switcher on my Korg DTR 2000 to go between my wireless and a wired bass.


                I used to do that but then I realised that the tuner sucks so much signal Shame because there's an external latching/non-latching trigger output on my roadking which is footswitchable, so I could control the mute from my amp's floorboard.
                Gibson LP Custom, Std, Studio, Jr (x2), SG Std (x2)
                PRS Cu24, Cu22
                Fender US Strat & Tele, Baja Tele, Hw1 P-Bass
                Ibanez RG548, RG550, EX170
                Epiphone LP Custom BB
                Antoria Custom Agent
                ----------
                Mesa Roadking, Recto Trd "A" cab, Recto Std "S" cab (x2), P.H. 8x10
                Marshall JCM800 2204 (x2), TSL, 1960A
                Ampeg V-4
                Jet City JCA20H
                Orange PPC112
                Laney B1, LC15
                -------------------------
                www.reverbnation.com/lastunderthesun
                www.reverbnation.com/policebastard
                www.myspace.com/thejiltedgeneration

                Comment


                • #9
                  I used to do that but then I realised that the tuner sucks so much signal Shame because there's an external latching/non-latching trigger output on my roadking which is footswitchable, so I could control the mute from my amp's floorboard.


                  I always said that that was just an excuse for not having good tone in the first place. I can't tell the difference and I'm sitting behind the mixing board half the night. Most of the stage volume, sounds great on stage while I'm still adding mids and highs to the guitars to make them sound like guitars.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hmm...the other issue I've had...which I THINK is down to the tuner but I haven't been able to successfully pinpoint, is what sounds like an horrific earth loop when on my amp's gain channels. I have to clamp down hard with a gate to stop the hum, which of course is not ideal. I had the same problem with a DTR1 I had before when run with an older 2 channel Dual Rec. It went back to Korg 3 times, each time them saying there was no problem, even though it did cause a hum in the shop with a DIFFERENT dual rec (shop stock, brand new).

                    I have now lifted the ground on the Korg but all it's done is add ANOTHER strange warbly humming on top of the original noise... and this is with the tuner out of the signal path completely.

                    Any ideas??
                    Gibson LP Custom, Std, Studio, Jr (x2), SG Std (x2)
                    PRS Cu24, Cu22
                    Fender US Strat & Tele, Baja Tele, Hw1 P-Bass
                    Ibanez RG548, RG550, EX170
                    Epiphone LP Custom BB
                    Antoria Custom Agent
                    ----------
                    Mesa Roadking, Recto Trd "A" cab, Recto Std "S" cab (x2), P.H. 8x10
                    Marshall JCM800 2204 (x2), TSL, 1960A
                    Ampeg V-4
                    Jet City JCA20H
                    Orange PPC112
                    Laney B1, LC15
                    -------------------------
                    www.reverbnation.com/lastunderthesun
                    www.reverbnation.com/policebastard
                    www.myspace.com/thejiltedgeneration

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      If you're in the UK, you use different power and diagnosing the problem might have solutions I'm not aware of.
                      Is this in every building you play?
                      With each guitar?
                      Do you use a wireless?
                      Common grounding for your gear?
                      Are there neon lights close to your rig?
                      Have you tried different cables?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You could use a 1:1 audio isolation transformer in the signal path between the two problem devices as a last resort. This should stop all ground loop problems. But check everything that Rezrover suggested first.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          If you're in the UK, you use different power and diagnosing the problem might have solutions I'm not aware of.
                          Is this in every building you play?

                          90% of them I'd say
                          With each guitar?

                          Yes

                          Do you use a wireless?

                          Yes but even plugging straight in with a short cable, the noise is still there.

                          Common grounding for your gear?

                          Well...I have my head in a head case with an 8U rack built in, Wireless (Wall Wart), Rocktron Xpression (Wall Wart), Rocktron Guitar Silencer (Wall Wart) DTR2000 (Kettle Lead), Amp Head and extention to pedalboard all into a 6 way extension. I used to have the head on it's own and a 4U rack with the head and pedalboard into separate sockets, and all the rack gear into a 4 way in the back of the case... It was still the same.Are there neon lights close to your rig?

                          Have you tried different cables?

                          Affirmative!



                          I tried to trouble shoot it a bit tonight in rehearsals. disconnected the rack gear from the amp and unplugged each individually trying to find the "Bad" one, no joy. Unplugged and disconnected all the rack gear from the amp, so litterally the head is sitting in the case, plugged first directly into the wall, with just the speaker cable and a 10ft cable (I tried various other cables too). and then via the 6 way. The 6 way added a little to the already overpowering noise, as did plugging in each rack item at a time. Not a lot in it tho to be honest.

                          I then took the head out of the case..put the case in another room, and had head plugged direct, and guitar connected with a 10ft lead. Met with what I'd concider acceptable hum for a hi gain amp.

                          Any ideas??
                          Gibson LP Custom, Std, Studio, Jr (x2), SG Std (x2)
                          PRS Cu24, Cu22
                          Fender US Strat & Tele, Baja Tele, Hw1 P-Bass
                          Ibanez RG548, RG550, EX170
                          Epiphone LP Custom BB
                          Antoria Custom Agent
                          ----------
                          Mesa Roadking, Recto Trd "A" cab, Recto Std "S" cab (x2), P.H. 8x10
                          Marshall JCM800 2204 (x2), TSL, 1960A
                          Ampeg V-4
                          Jet City JCA20H
                          Orange PPC112
                          Laney B1, LC15
                          -------------------------
                          www.reverbnation.com/lastunderthesun
                          www.reverbnation.com/policebastard
                          www.myspace.com/thejiltedgeneration

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            NicSwitch is a Windows service that looks of a link or lack thereof in a wired network card, and then automatically activates or deactivates a different network adapter. This helps in several ways, firstly avoids unnecessary clutter your oven with wireless signals.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Interesting... what kinda jack socket do I need? Just a regular stereo?

                              Edit: Nevermind, just used my head; a standard stereo will do it won't it as it has the contact plates... Cool stuff, I'll use that.


                              Nice post my friend ,your question makes sense...i am also waiting for the answer..

                              Comment

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