Members ashivraj Posted August 20, 2003 Members Share Posted August 20, 2003 im building my very own rack. rather, getting a good friend to build it for me, since he's done a lot of work with wood and tools and such stuff. a) what should the inner width be? i know rack gear is 19" (or so i think), but do i need to make the rack a few mm wider? the rack rails are standard partsexpress ones - the black steel things, probably 16ga. or so. b) what should the inner depth be? stuff going into the rack inclues a custom patchpanel, shure UHF wireless receiver, shure PSM 200 transmitter, behringer feedback destroyer, and a rackmount power/light dealie. will also have a small behringer mixer and a DI, attached to the bottom of the rack. so i dont think it'll be terribly deep. c) what thickness of wood should i use? as mentioned above, nothing terribly heavy inside, but i plan on sitting on this thing - or placing my guitar amp on it - but dont foresee anything > 200lb. weight on top, unless i suddenly put on a lot of weight, or find a girlfriend, to join me on the rack. tia folks... AS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted August 20, 2003 Members Share Posted August 20, 2003 19.125" inside clear width including coverings that may be wrapped around to the inside. Depth will depend on the gear, but 18" clear depth is pretty good for most uses unless you will be using a Crown or other rediculously deep amp, including some of the QSC MX series, Peavey CS-800X etc. 3/4" material thickness, not so much for the strength but for the integrity of the joints. It's the road pounding on the joints that causes most rack failures since the only thing that protects the rack from sheer failure is the gear inside! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members wjking Posted August 20, 2003 Members Share Posted August 20, 2003 I'm getting ready to have someone build a "rack" for us too. Because we don't have room for a permanent "sound booth" in our youth building, I'm having a guy build a cart with a shelf for a 24 channel mixer on top and a lid. Under the mixer will be 2 sections - 1 set of rack rails for eq, fx, etc, and the opposite side will have shelves and possible a drawer or two for mics, cables, etc. Any thoughts on design - anyone seen this done before? Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rickkreuzer Posted August 20, 2003 Members Share Posted August 20, 2003 I've been toying with that same idea, wjking. I'd like to have one rack. Since I've been stage mixing, I've been trying to find ways to simplify my setup. I'd like to build a case that would hold the amps on one side, effects, etc on the other side, with my 32 ch mixer on top. That way I could leave it all connected and just place it, run power, speaker and line inputs... My only dilema is that it will make one heavy mother! Good thing we have 5 guys in the band!!! Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Zeromus-X Posted August 20, 2003 Members Share Posted August 20, 2003 Originally posted by agedhorse 19.125" inside clear width including coverings that may be wrapped around to the inside.Depth will depend on the gear, but 18" clear depth is pretty good for most uses unless you will be using a Crown or other rediculously deep amp, including some of the QSC MX series, Peavey CS-800X etc.3/4" material thickness, not so much for the strength but for the integrity of the joints. It's the road pounding on the joints that causes most rack failures since the only thing that protects the rack from sheer failure is the gear inside! ...3/4" thick?! Even Anvil doesn't use anything that thick. Standard to me seems about 3/8", with 1/4" for (very) light duty stuff. 1/2" would be pretty damned tough. 3/4" would break your back! With the units he mentioned, even a 10" - 11" depth would probably be fine. Go to the manufacturer web sites and see what depth each unit is, add about three inches for cables sticking out and another two or three inches for breathing room and expansion in case you get something a tiny bit deeper than you can fit. My 14" depth Road Ready rack fits my Yammie CP2000, although it sticks out the back when the lids are off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted August 21, 2003 Members Share Posted August 21, 2003 Originally posted by Zeromus-X ...3/4" thick?! Even Anvil doesn't use anything that thick. Standard to me seems about 3/8", with 1/4" for (very) light duty stuff. 1/2" would be pretty damned tough. 3/4" would break your back!With the units he mentioned, even a 10" - 11" depth would probably be fine. Go to the manufacturer web sites and see what depth each unit is, add about three inches for cables sticking out and another two or three inches for breathing room and expansion in case you get something a tiny bit deeper than you can fit. My 14" depth Road Ready rack fits my Yammie CP2000, although it sticks out the back when the lids are off. Unless you are using aluminum edge extrusions, laminated surfaces and T&G valances, you will need the material thickness for both stiffness and joint strength. That's the reason why Anvil cases cost as much as they do for only a 3/8" thick material.You can save some weight on the larger cases by substituting 3/8" material with the edge extrusions and vanances, but generally cost increases due to both labor and the additional materials. If you build a rack with lid covers that extend beyond the front surface of the rack, than you do not need as much interior space, but again keeping such a lid on the rack is more difficult without valances and/or locating dowels. A rack that is only 10" deep is more subject to falling over when rolling over door thresholds. A recessed or flush lid is the other method for constructing a typical rack, there's always the "pull-over" type but they are more costly. Don't forget the quality 4" casters to protect your gear from rolling vibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Zeromus-X Posted August 21, 2003 Members Share Posted August 21, 2003 I've got four wheels I want to mount to my bottom rack (I've got a 6-space and a 4-space, with the 6 on the bottom) but I need to figure out a way to secure the top rack to the bottom one before I do that... or else all the {censored} falls off when I roll it across a bumpy road anyway! EDIT: Never did understand the pull-over racks. Seems like a much more costly way of doing it, while not really providing any more protection... possibly even less protection to your knobs on the rack if they stick out a bit! The recessed front lid seems cool, and a hell of a lot easier to build. If I ever construct one, it'll definitely have the recessed lids... I could never get a "normal" lid one lined up properly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members IsildursBane Posted August 21, 2003 Members Share Posted August 21, 2003 Originally posted by Zeromus-X I've got four wheels I want to mount to my bottom rack (I've got a 6-space and a 4-space, with the 6 on the bottom) but I need to figure out a way to secure the top rack to the bottom one before I do that... or else all the {censored} falls off when I roll it across a bumpy road anyway! Get a ratchet tie-down strap. They're available at most any hardware store. My dad uses a pair of them to keep his boat on his trailer. The one in the picture is 14' and is rated at 900 lbs, but I'm sure you can get something smaller. -Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Zeromus-X Posted August 21, 2003 Members Share Posted August 21, 2003 I was considering either that or going with simple bungee cords on the recessed handles. My big problem is that I transport most of my gear in a Mazda MX-6 two-door car, not a van, unless we're playing a string of shows which probably take us out of state. So I'd have to take the assembly apart to get it in and out of the car. It's a 6- and 4-space rack. The 6 has the wheels. It seems like more trouble to go tying the damn thing down together than it does just to carry the 4-space rack into the club!! Sometimes I think a combo would be really nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted August 21, 2003 Members Share Posted August 21, 2003 Mmmmm... Baltic Birch, my favorite! Pullover racks are not my favorite, but are handy when you need some lids for stacking a console on. They became popular in the 1970's with acts like the Dead, where everything was custom built out of birch and exotic woods and the pullover was an easy way to protect them while allowing the look to be visible. Same thing with the trim on the early Gamble consoles, Sound on Stage had some pull-overs and birch console end caps (custom built consoles with Jim Gamble's help at that time. Other parts of the country I'm sure had their versions of the same. I prefer recessed lids, trim size, recessing of knobs, less bulk in storing lids as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members IsildursBane Posted August 21, 2003 Members Share Posted August 21, 2003 Originally posted by Zeromus-X I was considering either that or going with simple bungee cords on the recessed handles. My big problem is that I transport most of my gear in a Mazda MX-6 two-door car, not a van, unless we're playing a string of shows which probably take us out of state. So I'd have to take the assembly apart to get it in and out of the car. It's a 6- and 4-space rack. The 6 has the wheels. It seems like more trouble to go tying the damn thing down together than it does just to carry the 4-space rack into the club!! Sometimes I think a combo would be really nice. Bungee cords are pretty quick and easy. -Dan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ashivraj Posted August 21, 2003 Author Members Share Posted August 21, 2003 thanks for the info guys! i really appreciate it. rather than pass it all down to my friend, i just gave him the link to this page. im so smart i think i'll go with 3/8" wood. one thing i want to re-ask though: the inside wont have to carry more than a few lb - mebbe 10 or 15. i mean, REALLY light stuff. i just wanna be able to put 200lb on the outside without worrying about stressing the joints. i will be using aluminum edging, and possibly further internal bracing. this be cool? again, thanks all. im getting really excited about the project... i think it's gonna work out very cool at the end of it all! i just hope i'll be able to return to the country to enjoy it... AS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted August 21, 2003 CMS Author Share Posted August 21, 2003 Originally posted by ashivraj thanks for the info guys! i really appreciate it. rather than pass it all down to my friend, i just gave him the link to this page. im so smart i think i'll go with 3/8" wood. one thing i want to re-ask though: the inside wont have to carry more than a few lb - mebbe 10 or 15. i mean, REALLY light stuff. i just wanna be able to put 200lb on the outside without worrying about stressing the joints. i will be using aluminum edging, and possibly further internal bracing. this be cool? again, thanks all. im getting really excited about the project... i think it's gonna work out very cool at the end of it all! i just hope i'll be able to return to the country to enjoy it... AS Probably the best internal and external bracing would be aluminum angle 'iron'. The 1/8" thickness on the interior, and the 1/16" in a larger size for the exterior. I'd opt for at least 1/2" plywood, so you can rabbet the joints and have decent strength built into the basic wood structure before you add bracing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RickJ Posted August 21, 2003 Members Share Posted August 21, 2003 Originally posted by agedhorse 19.125" inside clear width including coverings that may be wrapped around to the inside. That's the clearance for the mounting "ears" of the gear. I believe the body clearance is 17.5" (?). This usually isn't an issue if you're using metal rack rails, but if you're planning to use, say, a couple of pieces of 1" finish lumber for rails (actual thickness = 23/32") it should be taken into account. Wood rails are okay for light duty stuff such as signal procs, but never for amps. Standard 72" high steel audio/video engineering racks come in three depths that I've seen: 20", 22" and 24". The deeper racks allow you to add cable supports and back panels that hold connectors. You can also run a piece of Wiremold down one side of the back to hold the Edison receps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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