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What is the tool called that is used to be placed between fret and string in order to determine action height?

Over what fret is this tool supposed to be placed?

I understand that a standard business card or the outter-most paper packaging from a set of string will work too. Is that so?

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You can use any finely marked ruler but I just use feeler gauges, available from any auto parts store. Just stack them until you get the correct thickness. You can pay more but I personally don't see the point. Normally, on an acoustic guitar, you'd measure at the 12th fret. Fender recommends the 17th fret for a Strat. The cardboard trick is for relief, which is not the same thing. To measure relief, put a capo at the 1st fret, press the strings down at string/body joint (on an acoustic or hollowbody) or at the last fret. Find a point midway between, say the 7th fret, and measure the clearance between the fret and the strings. Different makers recommend different amounts of relief. Gibson says about the thickness of a piece of paper for a hollowbody, Fender says .008-.012" for a Strat, and .006-.008" is about right for an acoustic.

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You want a ruler that measures down to 1/64th of an inch for string height.

 

fetch?filedataid=122534

 

They do sell the specialized rulers on EBay too which are inexpensive. I got one for about $5.

 

fetch?filedataid=122533

 

 

 

 

You also want a straight edge. Using strings as a straight edge only gets you in the ball park. Getting a notched straight edge is the best because you can measure the straightness of the fretboard not the wear on the frets. You'll need this if you get into any kind of fret leveling.

 

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If your guitar has individual saddles like many fenders, you need to buy radius gauges. These can be used over or under the strings. They make others that are over string only which are less expensive and still better then no radius gauges at all. What you need these for is after you set your string heights of your first and last strings you select one of these gauges that matches your fret board radius. Then you put this under the strings just in front of the bridge and then you can use it to set the height of the strings between the high and low E string so the strings are radiused the same as your fret board is.

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Back before these tools were available I used to make my own by placing a small piece of wood at the end of the fret board, drawing a line on it along the edge of the fret board then shaving it down to that line so I had a curved surface the same as the fretboard. I'd then use it under the strings to adjust they're radius.

 

You'll find the gauges handy doing fret work too. You place them on top of frets and hold the neck up to the light and see if the frets have flat spots. Its also used for setting the radius of TOM bridges when they are first installed. You have to notch the saddles using nut files and you set the radius by how deep you cut the notches.

 

 

You also want a set of feeler gauges. You can buy a set that measure inch and metric at any auto parts or hardware store for a few bucks.

 

You can also use feeler gauges under the strings to measure height and radius. Its takes a little math to figure it out. You take your high and low strings height, subtract the difference and divide it between the remaining 4 strings.

 

I did this in metric and came up with these readings 1.191 - 1.3496 - 1.5082 - 1.6668 - 1.8254 - 1.984 - You then take the feeler gauges and come up with combinations that most closely match these settings and place the gauges in tope of the 12th fret and adjust the string heights down so they just clear the top of the stack of gauges. Its a bit more difficult then using the radius gauges but it will get the job done.

 

Feeler gauges can also be used to set the nut height. Without them you can easily cut too deep. A properly cut nut gradually rises in height like your string height does at the 12th fret. If you want to get highly accurate nut heights (and string heights at the 12th fret) this tool will give you readings down to 1/1000 of an inch.

 

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. . . Using strings as a straight edge only gets you in the ball park. . . .

Because strings under tension don't go in a straight line. Sorry but that's bull.

 

. . . You can also use feeler gauges under the strings to measure height and radius. Its takes a little math to figure it out. You take your high and low strings height' date=' subtract the difference and divide it between the remaining 4 strings. . . .[/quote']

Which is what I do. As you said, it's not hard if you have basic math skills. However, your massive wall of text is a bit much in answer to the OP's question:

What is the tool called that is used to be placed between fret and string in order to determine action height?

Over what fret is this tool supposed to be placed?

I understand that a standard business card or the outter-most paper packaging from a set of string will work too. Is that so?

Sometimes less is more. ;)

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Because strings under tension don't go in a straight line. Sorry but that's bull.

 

You are perfectly within your rights to have your own opinion. I however do not recommend imperfect methods when someone is asking for the right tools to do the best job. I'm going to recommend the best tools for the best job.

 

Luthiers have used straight edges for hundreds of years for very good reasons. Any worth their salt will recommend a straight edge for a number of great reasons. Strings can only measure the fret surface directly below them. Often times the frets are worn the most there. A straight edge can be placed anyplace on the fret board plane so you can take the measurement between strings where the frets are not worn and get an accurate reading.

 

Relief settings are made within 1/100th of an inch. If you think you can get an accurate adjustment using the strings over a straight edge be my guest. Just don't call a luthiers preferred method bull or you should expect them to rip you a new one for giving poor advice.

 

The OP from what I read wants to learn the best methods using the right tools for these adjustments. If you don't know why certain tools do a better job then others, then I suggest you refrain from criticizing others who do.

If you want to give people half assed advice using strings and cardboard, you better expect to be called out by professionals who know better.

 

Using feeler gauges under the strings is not the most reliable method to use. Its what you call a poor mans straight edge, which for good reason, sucks for accuracy.

 

Pull an old set off and run your fingers down the strings and you'll find strings are all bent where they met the frets making them crappy straight edge when they get worn. Wrapped strings can also wear notches making the strings lower between frets.

 

As I said it may get you in the ball park but it for accuracy, but that's as far as I'll recommend that method because I know better. Strings are too flexible for doing accurate feeler gauge measurements.

 

A straight provides a dead stop to feeler gauges when they pass under it. Its a definite Go/No Go reading that can not be mistaken when frets are gapped. Strings have low rigidity and the feeler gauges will simply slip by frets with practically no resistance. Add to that the wear just below the strings is usually much higher the readings can easily be off by several hundredths of an inch.

 

If you can get by playing an instrument that's simply in the ball park, then stick with your method. Just realize there are plenty of players who are accustomed to having much tighter tolerances then that.

 

If you worked in that business doing setups and repairs and had to deal with customers on a daily you'd know first hand just how anal many guitarists can be about they're setups. Your reputation gets around for doing good work and your job can be short lived if you are unable to get the accuracy many expect. You cant do that kind of work without the right tools.

 

Many of your pros appreciate what rigs like this do for getting work done accurately. Why do you think luthiers buy rigs like this for maintain relief while doing fret board work? Does he look like he's using cardboard to make his relief measurements?

 

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This rig cost nearly $700 and when doing professional setups its worth every dime when you're dealing with customers who want the instrument to have the same action as it did prior to having fretwork done. It allows you to maintains the same relief with the strings removed and makes accurate fret leveling that much easier.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n31899980[/ATTACH]

 

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Massive wall of B.S.

Since you don't respect me, let's take it up with Bryan Kimsey, one of the top setup guys in the US, the guy who worked on Freeman Keller's Martins. (You recognize Freeman's name, don't you? The guy who posts build threads showing works or art? Shall I send him a PM and have him weigh in?):

I measure it by putting a capo on the 1st fret, holding down the string on the fret where the neck meets the body- thus creating a straightedge with the string- and measuring the gap between the bottom of the low E and the 7th fret. I use feeler gauges (.002" - .025", stacked for thicker measurements) under good lighting to do the actual measuring. I use the 7th fret just for consistency and because if you hold the string at the 14th fret (as with most acoustic guitars), the 7th fret is halfway. On electric guitars, you’ll be holding down the 17th fret or thereabouts, but most of the neck bow still occurs around the 5th-7th frets.

The average guitarist doesn't need to invest $80+ in a fancy straightedge (http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Straightedges/Notched_Straightedge.html). A fretted string will work fine. If the OP has severely worn frets, which hasn't been established, then he has worse problems than a straightedge can solve in the first place.

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The average guitarist doesn't need to invest $80+ in a fancy straightedge.

 

FLASH: There are people who can afford to buy the tools of the trade which will last them a lifetime.

 

I'll agree - Anyone who Thinks they have to spend $80 is an idiot. Anyone who doesn't know they can google for the best prices is even a bigger idiot

 

The fact is you can buy a regular straight edge ruler will do the job just fine for $10 and much better then using the strings. https://www.amazon.com/Alumicolor-St...ight+edge+tool

 

A Notched straight which can be used as a straight edge for either the fret tops or fret board a whopping $16

 

Maybe that would bust your bank, and if it does they I apologize. I assure you I went many years using imperfect methods myself but when I found good alternatives at good prices I appreciated having those options. I didn't go around calling people who told be about those good buys as being full of bull for sharing those suggestions either. This is just as good as the ones Stuart sells. I know because I own one and use it quite a bit.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Guitar-Neck-S...ight+edge+tool

 

If your method is good enough for you - fine use it. I'm not going to try and convince you otherwise.

I'll still advise you to adopt the methods any reasonably good mechanic recognizes as being best.

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I note you didn't address the majority of my points and that you had better sense than to contradict Bryan Kimsey. Good for you. I quoted the price from StewMac because they're a well known supplier of setup and luthier tools. Incidentally, a ''reasonably good mechanic'' also knows what a chalk line is and how to use one. It's based on the principle of a string under tension forming a straight line.

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I remove the strings with my fingers then ensure the neck is dead flat with my eye. Then I lightly sand the frets with 800 w&d wrapped around a straight length of alloy out of my scrap bin to find high spots.Then I hit them or glue them down ,proof sand then dress them ,taking . a little bit more off each fret to the heel. Then a bit more w&d ,(1200) and some steel wool stolen from the kitchen Last of all I put a .5 wedge in the cavity. I only charge for parts . No complaints ever. Blows me away to see big name guitars leave the factory with action more suited to slide. Jems are constant patients .I once managed to fit a cigarette under the 12th on a floral. Players assume the Vai association means San Dimas-like action. This misconception is far from the truth and there,s not much that can be done. Theres no reason why guitars cant leave the factory with Charvel/Les paul playability. At the present silky action comes under the "custom shop" banner with a hefty price tag. I made some modifications to my old $300 Squire. It makes my Highway 1 look like firewood.

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