EHX Freeze Mode toggle switch.

[alfonso]

Hello,

 

for the second time, after a first under warranty repair, the mode toggle switch in my Freeze pedal stopped selecting the latched mode. I opened the unit and found a very cheap switch that I would like to attempt to change with the help of a friend with a much better one, I can't wait for servicing times abroad, the warranty is ended and I really need a better thing. It is a model named Q22, but I'm not able to find the exact specs. Could anyone give me some hint on what to get? Thanks. Alf.

[alfonso]

[WRGKMC]

I cant tell by the picture exactly what type of switch it is. It looks like it might be an on/on SPST switch. Need to know if it clicks in both directions or if its a momentary switch.

 

The best way to test it is to remove it. Be sure to use a solder sucker so you don't bugger up the PC board pads. Then you need to use and ohm meter to test it between the center leg and outside legs when its flipped. It should make an electrical contact on one outside leg when flipped in one direction and make an electrical connection flipped in the other.

 

Some switches have a spring that retracts them after flipping it which makes it momentary. Have to know those details before making recommendations.

 

The mini toggles are all similar in quality so don't get your hopes up about finding a better one. Best you can do is find the right type and then buy extras. The problem might not be the switch but its the most likely possibility, especially if the solder on the board looks like it has been replaced before.

 

If this is an on/on switch, one like this might work. The long contacts get trimmed back to mount vertically. http://www.jameco.com/z/MTS-102-C4-Toggle-Switch-Single-Pole-Double-Throw-On-On-M148PC-Right-Angle-PCB-6-Amp-125VAC-1-4-Inch-Mounting-Hole_71597.html

 

This one might work too - It does have the nut and threads for chassis mounting which wouldn't be used. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/140750903075?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%253A%252F% 252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp% 253D164965185820_324272%2526itemid%253D14075090307 5%2526targetid%253D271413276470%2526rpc%253D0.21%2 526rpc_upld_id%253D99544%2526device%253Dc%2526mpre %253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fu lk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F140750903075%25253Fl pid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla %2526googleloc%253D9027615%2526poi%253D%2526campai gnid%253D714751104%2526adgroupid%253D42866488452%2 526rlsatarget%253Dpla-271413276470%2526gclid%253DCJP31amytdECFY-HaQod99oOOg%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1151030881550&ul_noapp=true

 

Again, you need to know what kind of switch it is through testing or if its failed, opening it up to see what kind of contacts it uses.

 

Personally I'd give it a small shot of contact cleaner and see if you can get some more life out of it before replacing. Just reheating the contacts often restore these cheap plastic switches too.

 

Beware when replacing too. These switches can melt instantly when soldering and de-soldering them. The temp it takes to solder them in place is enough to melt the contacts inside the switch very quickly. If the switch did fail it may be partially due to it being overheated. You cant heat sink them when they are mounted flush on a board like that so its a matter of proper soldering, using a tinned iron tip, applying heat to the joint and adding the solder quickly before the heat goes up the shaft and melts the plastic in the switch.

 

Sometimes reheating refuses the electric contact and it works fine again. The exception is when the spring inside the switch wears out and cant put pressure on the toggle contact. If the switch still clicks the odds of the switch working again with a little contact cleaner is high so I'd try that first.