Members FOFguitar Posted March 24, 2010 Members Share Posted March 24, 2010 Hey guys I got a question about wiring up some stage light boxes using a work light and a momentary contact type of switch. I got the idea from this youtube video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHVDJ9JW3SA . I am only using one light and switch to simplify the build but I am kinda sketched out about not being sure if i need to ground switch that I am going to put in. Out of the back of the work light there is the usual positive negative and ground wires. I was planning on just inserting the switch between the positive and negative without touching the ground but im scared that if i accidentally complete the circuit that I might get a nasty shock. I know that with the switch being mounted inside the box that the risk of shock is minimal to non but it would be a nice to have the piece of mind that the thing is solid...also any Ideas on how to improve the boxes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted March 24, 2010 Members Share Posted March 24, 2010 Dont know exactly what your talking about because youtube is blocked on my computer, but when I built my lighting I use AC electrical boxes and switches and covers from home depot. I had the pushbutton wall switches mounted in ganged outlet boxes mounted to a board and have the matching metal covers for the switches then ran the AC snake to the kight boxes and all. I also built a color organ and used it to have lights come on an off with sound activation. Mine was all AC though. Most store bought systems use a brain and control the lights with an ssr (solid state relay) and low voltage dc to make the relays turn on and off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members FOFguitar Posted March 24, 2010 Author Members Share Posted March 24, 2010 Well essentially whats happening is I am using an AC work light that is mounted in the bottom of a box. The top of the box has Plexi Glass on it and some carpet padding under the plexi glass. When you step on the box the plexi glass goes down it triggers a momentary contact button turning on the light and when you step off the padding pushes the plexi back up turning off the switch and the light. I'm using a 120V 250W work light that does not have an on off switch built in...it just plugs in the a wall outlet and turns on. for the button I am using a car horn button that I got at Advance Auto. From what I can tell the button has 2 screw terminals (they are not labeled + or - but if I remember right it doesn't matter on a mechanical switch?). When hooking up the button I was just going to cut the + and - wires going from the light fixture to the power cord inside the actual work light and put the switch between the light and the power cord but I WAS NOT going to mess with the ground b/c the switch does not appear have a third contact for grounds. What I want to know is if I insert that switch without grounding It will I get a nasty shock if I touch the metal on it?...if so how do I ground it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mr.Grumpy Posted March 24, 2010 Members Share Posted March 24, 2010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members FOFguitar Posted March 24, 2010 Author Members Share Posted March 24, 2010 Indeed:facepalm: thanks for the info though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nonameputs Posted March 24, 2010 Members Share Posted March 24, 2010 That's weird, I just got on here to ask a question about a light box I'm going to build and this was the first thread lol. Anyway, I want to do the same thing but I want to use relays to turn the lights on and off. What would be a good relay for this application? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mr.Grumpy Posted March 24, 2010 Members Share Posted March 24, 2010 Sorry for my grumpiness. Let me add a couple of things. First, please don't use a car horn button. Car electrical is 12 volts. Get a switch designed and properly insulated for 120 volt use. Make sure the current (amps) rating is at least as much as the light pulls. A 250 watt light pulls just over 2 amps at 120 volts. Use something similar to this: http://www.altex.com/ACDC-Push-Button-Momentary-Switch-SPST-Off-On-30-14451-P146514.aspx Your local electronics supply or an electrical & lighting supply should have them. Some even have wire leads so you could do the hookup with 'wire nut' type twist-on wire connectors. Single pole, single throw, momentary switch. You can go higher on the volt and amp ratings for the switch, just don't go lower. The switch itself doesn't need to be grounded, just take care that any of the electrical wires can't touch anything else metallic. Be careful, be SAFE and ask for help if you're not sure. Maybe drag the box to an electrical supply store if you don't have anyone else locally to assist you. I want to use relays to turn the lights on and off. What would be a good relay for this application? Relays have two electrical "ratings" - one for the relay coil, which activates it; and another rating for the relay contacts, which tells you how much current (amps) and voltage the relay contacts are rated for. Relays with a 12 volt coil are very common and that's what I'd use. Lights of course run on standard AC voltage which is 100 ~ 120 volts. I'd go with a relay whose contacts are rated for double the amps the lights use, just for a "cushion" and so the contacts last longer. Plenty of relays mount in a socket like a tube so if it fails, you unplug it and plug in a new one. Be careful out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members nonameputs Posted March 25, 2010 Members Share Posted March 25, 2010 I was thinking about using standard bosch style SPDT automotive relays. They're rated for 30-40 amps anyway. Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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