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USB interface Ground loop WEIRD problem


Chummy

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NOTE: Roland customer support sucks badly!!! They basically don't support any of the products except select few puchased in the US by US customers!! this is outrageous! I am stuck with a really serious problem for a long time and I am pulling my hair out trying to understand how to solve it. I think I will never be able to troubleshoot it. ever. It has gotten me beaten!

 

I have a really severe problem with my Roland Octa Capture sound card! I have ground loop noises from my USB Comp>Interface only when I plug my Roland Jupiter 6 synth (My YAMAHA DX7 doesn't do ground noise). It manifests itself with extremely hard dial up modem like sound, not just sub hum. In addition, I tried using Behringer HD400 which eliminated the noise BUT now I get clicks/pops every few minutes (when my delay pedal is connected as well the click has a "delay" from the pedal - it is only with the HD400 that I get the pops/clicks. At first I was like "oh it's clocking issues" but without the HD400 in the audio chain all is good, no clicks - but ofc the terrible terrible noise is back). what to do? I'm pulling my hair out, wasted tons of $$ on USB isolators which didn't recognize the monitors for sounds coming out of the computer!! I am lost! please help!!

 

Using Windows 10, Octa capture driver settings: 512 ms buffer, "match with Windows asio sample rate" checked "V".

I am using Balanced cables and everything into 1 plug (mounted with a surge protector)

 

Sorry for seeimngly being ranty but I can't express how tedious and tiresome it has been and this stress has not gone away since then. I really can't function in my studio thanks to this...

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Hey thanks so muchj for answering Anderton, I didn't understand how you solved prob;em number 2. How do I connect a wire between my computer case screw to the Octa capture? I too see the GND from my octa capture I don't suppose I need to weld it?? That would mean I cannot rearrange my studio at all in the future... how did you do that?

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Hey thanks so muchj for answering Anderton' date=' I didn't understand how you solved prob;em number 2. How do I connect a wire between my computer case screw to the Octa capture? I too see the GND from my octa capture I don't suppose I need to weld it?? That would mean I cannot rearrange my studio at all in the future... how did you do that?[/quote']

 

I'm not Craig, and I don't own an Octa-Capture, but maybe I can help anyway. :)

 

Here's a photo of the Octa Capture:

 

 

sc_b0048km70y-06octacapture_lg.jpg

 

 

Directly above the MIDI in and out ports is a silver screw. That's a grounding screw. Loosen the screw and attach the wire to that by wrapping the wire around the screw, and then tighten the screw back down. No welding or soldering required. :) Then connect the other end of the wire to a suitable ground point somewhere in your studio. What worked for Craig was to attach the other end to one of the screws that holds the PCI-e cards in the computer case. Again, just loosen the screw and wrap the wire around it, then tighten it back down.

 

It's all easy to remove and reconfigure at a later point if you need to. :)

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Hi guys and thanks so much for help. I DID managed to solve the issue, in another way. What ended up happening, and got me thinking is the DX7 wasn't having any trouble in my setup, only my JUPITER 6. The JP6, actually, and the PC too both have 3 prong cable and they are the only ones in my setup having ones! (even the monitors have 2 prongs!!) what I did is I bought 3 to 2 prong adapter so the cable would fit inside the socket without the middle prong actually connecting thus removing the need to actually remove it. Obviously I did it with my JP6 and NOT my PC (I actually tried it with the PC for experiment but it did not remove the pops/clicks only ground noise). The JP6 having only 2 prongs inside relieved the problem completely!! nowdays even Roland products doesn't use 3 prong cables!! since there were 2 different references to ground my problem occured.. now that my PC is the only 3 prong cable around I am satisfied to say there is 0 interference!!! no more stress no more anger!! quiet as all hell :)) I am 100% sure your solution would have worked as well, it's funny after I wasted like 100$ in total on complicated DIs and USB isolators a 3$ solution instantly solved it...

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I was hesitant to suggest that you try lifting a power ground, because that's a safety thing. It's sometimes a good diagnostic tool, though, to show you what device is causing the problem.

 

The reason why there's a ground pin on the power plug is that inside, it's connected to the chassis. (sorry if you already know all this) The idea is that if the hot side of the power line somehow shorts to the chassis, rather than letting you complete the current path by touching the chassis while you're standing on something that's grounded, insted it immediately short circuits the hot side of the line to the low (ground) side and blows a fuse before you, rather than the fuse, gets electrocuted.

 

It's possible that the Jupiter 6 has small capacitors from each side of the line to the chassis, and that one of those is (electrically) leaky, so there might be some fixing that can be done. If this is a genuine vintage Jupiter 6, it's likely around 35 years old, and may indeed have a leaky line bypass capacitor. I took a look at the service manual: http://www.synthmanuals.com/manuals/roland/jupiter-6/service_manual/ and found a power line filter that has a couple of small capacitors connected betwen the high and low sides of the power line. It could be that one of those is passing more current at 60 Hz than it was designed to do.

 

The reason why a lot of things these days don't have a ground pin on the power plug is because there's no metal chassis for the hot side of the power line to short to - plastic cased wall warts, for example.

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Craig, I have a very similar problem with my Roland FA-08 and Focusrite interface. I've tried several suggestions from both the Keyboard Central and Sonar forums, but so far, no joy. I have as well tried the filter, and get pops and clicks as well.

 

I haven't thought about trying a PCI card, but that seems like something worth trying. Does it matter of it is a PCI or PCI card? I can get a 4 port USB 2.0 PCI card for $11, or a 3 port PCIE card for $33. Would it really matter? I understand that I would not plug any of my synths into that, but would it hurt to plug in my Motu into the PCI card?

 

Thank you.

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Which "very similar" problem do you have?

 

Whether you use a PCI or PIC-e card depends on what kind of expansion slot you have in your computer. They fit different connectors so you can't plug one in the wrong slot, but be sure you buy one that matches the available slot in your computer. Newest computers don't have the old PCI slot, only PCI-e, and that further complicates things because there are two or three variants of PCI-e. Most computers that have PCI-e have two slots, one that's a single channel (which will work fine for a USB expansion card) and the other that's usually 16 channels (data streams, no relation to audio channels) and typically are used for graphics cards.

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I have a ground loop noice whenever I plug in the USB of one of my synths (Nord, Moog, and Roland FA) whenever I have my 18i20 plugged in as well. I have tried all the normal suggestions, but the problem still remains:

 

I have a Gigabyte GA-Z710-HD3, which is a pretty new board (which surprised me that it still has the old PCI slot) . It has the following slots: PCI Express 3.0 x16 1 x PCI Express x16 slot, running at x16 (PCIEX16)

* For optimum performance, if only one PCI Express graphics card is to be installed, be sure to install it in the PCIEX16 slot.

1 x PCI Express x16 slot, running at x4 (PCIEX4) PCI Express x1 2 x PCI Express x1 slots

(All of the PCI Express slots conform to PCI Express 3.0 standard.) PCI Slots 2 x PCI Slots

 

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