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Optical cable help PLEASE!


Paully

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I just went to hook up 2 brandi-new Hosa Premium optical cables from a Fostex HD recorder to an M-Audio 410. Neither cable end fill go into the respective sockets on either unit. I didn't want to try forcing them in. What am I doing wrong? Thanks.

 

Best, Paul

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:D:D:D ! Thanks for the replies, all. Actually, I'm pretty thick skinned, so my feelings don't bruise easily. Ya, I removed the dummy plugs, and on closer inspection and using a caliper, the dummies appear to be the same size as the cable ends with one exception. The cable plugs have a key on opposing sides, whereas the dummy doesn't. I thought I tried inserting in all 4 possible rotations, but maybe not.

 

He's what I bought http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/OPM330 and a pic.

 

TOSplug.jpg

 

Best, Paul

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The protective cover is still on the end of the actual cable - at least in the photo. And some dummy plugs are keyed, while some are not.

 

To make life in the lightpipe world easier, you can put a P-Touch label with an arrow pointing to the flat spot on each of your digital devices.

 

best,

 

john

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The protective cover is still on the end of the actual cable - at least in the photo. And some dummy
plugs
are keyed, while some are not.

 

 

Hi John,

 

I checked the cable plugs, and there's no protective cover (plastic?) on the part that actually inserts.. only on the part that you grip. Is that what you're referring to? One other question. Are the jacks always keyed? If not, I may end up scraping the keys off of the wire ends. It really shouldn't matter which rotation they're inserted at. Thanks.

 

Best, Paul

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I checked the cable plugs, and there's no protective cover (plastic?) on the part that actually inserts..

It sure looks from your photo like there's a protective cover on the tip. Here's what it looks like when it's ready to insert:

 

TOSLinkPlug-1.jpgTOSLinkPlug-2.jpg

 

Are the jacks always keyed? If not, I may end up scraping the keys off of the wire ends. It really shouldn't matter which rotation they're inserted at.

The key is part of what keeps it in alignment. Don't remove it. Also, notice that not only is there a little ridge on one of the flat sides, but that the opposite side has the corners cut off. It can only go in properly one way. That ridge that you think is the key is what keeps it from falling out.

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Hi Mike,

 

I think Ken was right in the first reply; wrong cable. Thanks for the observation. If you look at this link http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/OPM330 , there's a caveat about this being the wrong cable for certain devices(audio interfaces :mad: ). I didn't even notice it untill today. Still waiting to hear back from Hosa.

 

Up close, what looks like a protective coating more resembles a tiny light bulb. If I was to try to remove it, I think I'd probably destroy it. At $40+ a pop, think I'll return them and get the other option http://www.hosatech.com/hosa/products/OPT-100.html . THAT looks exactly like your pic. Thanks again for taking the time.

 

Best, Paul

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Up close, what looks like a protective coating more resembles a tiny light bulb. If I was to try to remove it, I think I'd probably destroy it. At $40+ a pop, think I'll return them and get the other option

Best, Paul

 

 

hi Paul,

 

It may look like a tiny light bulb, but if you gently bite down on it, you should feel some give. If it feels reasonably soft, then keep a gentle pressure on the soft protective plastic and pull the cable away.

 

best,

 

john

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there's a caveat about this being the wrong cable for certain devices(audio interfaces
:mad:
). I didn't even notice it untill today. Still waiting to hear back from Hosa.

The simple question that Hosa could answer is whether the cable you bought is shipped with protective caps in place. That will tell you for sure whether you need to remove them.

 

I think that warning from the Sweetwater web page is that the shell (or "handle" if you will) is larger than the usual molded plastic shell. Since a common TOSLink jack configuration is two sockets (for an input and output) built into a single piece, because of the large diameter shell, two adjacent cables might crowd each other, making it difficult or impossible to insert both together.

 

Another possibility is that they're heavier than the cheap plastic connectors and because of the extra weight and length of the shell, have more leverage on the circuit board mounted socket and tend to pull it loose from its moorings.

 

For what it's worth, I don't usually use ADAT optical cables, but I recently had an "experience" when checking out the optical inputs on a Focusrite Saffire Pro interface. With a 6 foot cheap Guitar Center house brand cable, I had clicks with the audio, and when using the ADAT optical input for word clock, it often dropped clock sync. Using the BNC word clock connection between the units, I still had the clicks. I replaced it with a 2 foot cable of unknown origin and the audio clicks went away, but it still didn't have solid clock sync through the optical input. It could have been the cable, the receiver, or the transmitter, but I didn't do any further troubleshooting.

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Hey Mike,

 

Thanks for the tips, and thanks again to all. The cables are being returned as we speak, and will be replaced with standard optical cables that look the pic that you posted. The originals wouldn't fit, and there was no mention on the packaging about breaking any protective shields off so that's not a consideration. Still waiting to hear back from Hosa about what they're actually intended for.

 

This whole optical thing is turning into a nightmare. I was originally going to use an optical patchbay, but ran into a dead end (no 24b x 96K units available). Maybe I shouldn't have sold those old multi-track tape decks :D !

 

Best, Paul

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I was originally going to use an optical patchbay, but ran into a dead end (no 24b x 96K units available).

24-bit through an ADAT optical interface is no problem, but it isn't defined for 96 kHz. The way they do 96 kHz using that interface is to split it on to two cables, with four channels each. This is the S-Mux protocol. It's why some ADAT-interfaced devices have two sets of connectors. Running at 96 kHz, you need two cables in and two cables out.

Maybe I shouldn't have sold those old multi-track tape decks
:D

Then you'd be tearing your hair about balanced and unbalanced connections.

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Hey Mike,


The originals wouldn't fit, and there was no mention on the packaging about breaking any protective shields off so that's not a consideration.

 

 

Hi Paul,

 

When you get the replacements, that package may or may not mention it either, But unless the industry has had a major change in interconnect standards that we all managed to miss hearing about, the bulbous device on the end of the cable in your picture is a protective end cap. A soft plastic would never work to maintain a vacuum in even the smallest of light bulbs.

 

Did you test the bulb to see if it had any give to it? Did you try pulling the bulb off? (You wouldn't want to try breaking it off - it's sort of like a cable condom.)

 

best,

 

john

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Paul, did you see this link illustrating the differences?

 

http://www.hosatech.com/hosa/products/OPM-300.html#

 

follow the link to More Info On This Item. They have a picture there.

 

 

Question

What's the differences between the OPT-Series and the OPM-Series?


Answer

Hosa offers two levels of Toslink terminated fiber optic cables. The OPT-Series is our standard quality fiber optic cable that provides excellent performance.


The OPM-Series is Hosa's Premium fiber optic cable. It is a robust cable designed for the rigors of the road where plugging and unplugging is routine. It features metal headshells, metal guides, and a thicker outer cable jacket for outstanding durability.


This picture shows the two cables side-by-side.

 

 

I support "the squishy plastic overpackaging thingy theory."

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Most manufacturers use that bulb in packaging, you pull it off and they will plug right in. I work in tech support and get that call at least 3 times a week. if you think about it the toslink standard input connector will not accept anythign bigger than that so the bulb cannot be a part of the cable.

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Hi Spokenword,

 

What can I say after "OH, CRAP!!". If I'd seen that link I would have done what you and others suggested. I never actually checked the Hosa site for this particular cable.. just going by the 'warning' at the Sweetwater site and the fact that it didn't fit. Holding the actual plug in front of me, the protector looked like part of the final assembly, and it was counter-intuitive to break a $40+ item that could be returned. Live and learn :rolleyes: . You'd think removing a protective casing would be mentioned on the packing, just to avoid this kind of mistake with noobs such as me.

 

AAR, thanks to all for the info, and GO YANKEES (did I make a mistake here too :D) .

 

Best, Paul

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