Live Sound & Production

[Coaster]

no pics yet. i do have the rear doors torn apart, and while i am in there i am going to try and fix the locking mechanism which is sticky.

a good friend of mine has a newer suburban with a factory stereo in it that actually kick some serious patootey, it has some form of subs and good speakers too. that would be good enough for me.

[Coaster]

rear door. upper left hand corner is where i plan to put the speaker. it does fit, but the metal panel needs cut. i plan to make an interim panel out of 1/4" hardboard that i already own. i have a full sheet of this to make covers for the rear/side windows and paint the boards black. i need truck mirros befor i do this.



i am on a new dell PC after my old one died recently (literally just exploded). this one is much faster and has a card reader so that is a new experience for me. i just take the card of the camera und drag the pics out of the folder. no more uploading with a usb cable

door without metal panel removed yet.



inside of van as of now



outside of van as of now









http://acapella.harmony-central.com/...6&d=1357273369

here you can clearly see it open on the sides by design. its also open on the bottom all the way to the floor.

[Coaster]

rear door. upper left hand corner is where i plan to put the speaker. it does fit, but the metal panel needs cut. i plan to make an interim panel out of 1/4" hardboard that i already own. i have a full sheet of this to make covers for the rear/side windows and paint the boards black. i need truck mirros befor i do this.



i am on a new dell PC after my old one died recently (literally just exploded). this one is much faster and has a card reader so that is a new experience for me. i just take the card of the camera und drag the pics out of the folder. no more uploading with a usb cable

door without metal panel removed yet.



inside of van as of now



outside of van as of now









http://acapella.harmony-central.com/...6&d=1357273369

here you can clearly see it open on the sides by design. its also open on the bottom all the way to the floor.

[Coaster]

stoopid cup holders



front doors

[Coaster]

stoopid cup holders



front doors

[Bugzie]

I'd put a pair of 6" in the fornt of those front door panels and a pair of boxed 6X9's in the rear and be done with it. Add a sub if you need it.

[Bugzie]

I'd put a pair of 6" in the fornt of those front door panels and a pair of boxed 6X9's in the rear and be done with it. Add a sub if you need it.

[abzurd]

^^^^^^^^^

This

[abzurd]

^^^^^^^^^

This

[nchangin]

boy don't miss the days of car audio. When I did do car audio in high school I diddled with many a pair of 6 x 9's for my 1978 plymouth valarie with a hillside hemi we called it (slant 6) and found the 60 dollar kenwoods were the best (mounted in back of vehicle) speakers and I would replace them once a year through best buy under warranty (there were used a LOT). The dash speakers you are using have no enclosure whatsoever sound goes everywhere and it does not work, speakers need some form of enclosure I've found to work at all in car audio. Hope that mounting them in the door works for you! I gave up on car audio long ago, all you do is spend money and it never lasts. I think if you mount a decent pair of 6 x 9's in the back with a sub probably going to get what you need, if that's a 4 channel deck you could do a pair of 6's in doors but the door speaks always seem to suck, had much better luck with 6 x 9's. As far as the yamaha clubs if you mount them would love to see pics or any pa speaker you put in there. This is all too funny your post made me laugh.

[nchangin]

boy don't miss the days of car audio. When I did do car audio in high school I diddled with many a pair of 6 x 9's for my 1978 plymouth valarie with a hillside hemi we called it (slant 6) and found the 60 dollar kenwoods were the best (mounted in back of vehicle) speakers and I would replace them once a year through best buy under warranty (there were used a LOT). The dash speakers you are using have no enclosure whatsoever sound goes everywhere and it does not work, speakers need some form of enclosure I've found to work at all in car audio. Hope that mounting them in the door works for you! I gave up on car audio long ago, all you do is spend money and it never lasts. I think if you mount a decent pair of 6 x 9's in the back with a sub probably going to get what you need, if that's a 4 channel deck you could do a pair of 6's in doors but the door speaks always seem to suck, had much better luck with 6 x 9's. As far as the yamaha clubs if you mount them would love to see pics or any pa speaker you put in there. This is all too funny your post made me laugh.

[Mutha Goose]

OEM audio systems have progressed to a point that after-market systems have lost a lot of their appeal. Many of these systems are now so intigrated into the vehicle, that they are no longer referred to as "Audio System" but as "Infotainment Systems". The after-market is targetting the boom-boom crowd almost exclusively as that is who is buying those systems now. Accurate high-fidelity is in the OEM domain now-a-days.

The automotive environment sucks. Accoutically you would think that since you have a defined space, it should be easy, but it isn't. Nothing about the vehicle interior is condusive to quality audio. As I've mentioned in previous posts, I have been designing amplifiers for a major premium OEM for almost 20 years now. I can tell you there is some serious processing going on to tune a system properly, from the electronics side. And the mechanical and enclosure aspect is no less regorous.

There are a lot of quality after-market head units out there. But speakers are a different story. There are components available that can work in an infinate baffle, but that comes with a LOT of sonic compromize. A properly tuned enclosure can help reduce the need for extensive processing (but not eliminate it).

Adding a quality EQ can go a long way to helping. But do not tune it with a pro-audio mind set. You will need to be far more aggressive than that. And pay particular attention to the phase response. You would be amazed at how much energy is completely wasted to cancellations.

[Mutha Goose]

OEM audio systems have progressed to a point that after-market systems have lost a lot of their appeal. Many of these systems are now so intigrated into the vehicle, that they are no longer referred to as "Audio System" but as "Infotainment Systems". The after-market is targetting the boom-boom crowd almost exclusively as that is who is buying those systems now. Accurate high-fidelity is in the OEM domain now-a-days.

The automotive environment sucks. Accoutically you would think that since you have a defined space, it should be easy, but it isn't. Nothing about the vehicle interior is condusive to quality audio. As I've mentioned in previous posts, I have been designing amplifiers for a major premium OEM for almost 20 years now. I can tell you there is some serious processing going on to tune a system properly, from the electronics side. And the mechanical and enclosure aspect is no less regorous.

There are a lot of quality after-market head units out there. But speakers are a different story. There are components available that can work in an infinate baffle, but that comes with a LOT of sonic compromize. A properly tuned enclosure can help reduce the need for extensive processing (but not eliminate it).

Adding a quality EQ can go a long way to helping. But do not tune it with a pro-audio mind set. You will need to be far more aggressive than that. And pay particular attention to the phase response. You would be amazed at how much energy is completely wasted to cancellations.

[RoadRanger]

^ kinda like designing a cab where you have no control over the shape or size and it has to sound good on the inside, not the outside .

[RoadRanger]

^ kinda like designing a cab where you have no control over the shape or size and it has to sound good on the inside, not the outside .

[W. M. Hellinger]

Looking at the pictures, I'll suggest (ahead of the concerns with the sound system): If not already equipped with such, consider replacing at least the driver's seat with an Astro seat that has arm rests.

[W. M. Hellinger]

Looking at the pictures, I'll suggest (ahead of the concerns with the sound system): If not already equipped with such, consider replacing at least the driver's seat with an Astro seat that has arm rests.

[Coaster]

how come mark? are they comfy on long trips?

[Coaster]

how come mark? are they comfy on long trips?

[Dogoth]

I think your first assesment was correct. Car audio sucks. I'd also agree with the idea that an auto interior isn't in any way designed for acoustic excellence (I think it's real hit or miss). From what I understand, most auto speakers are designed for an infinite baffle (in other words no real air dampening from behind and a large (of course not infiite :-) baffle such as a door or your dash. I doubt that much thought is put into most auto speaker designs because the manufacturer can't tell how or where they will be mounted. Just because they sounded good in the display mount, will they sound good in your car? Who knows?

You mentioned that they were shaking your steering wheel but had no bass response. I almost hate to bring this up (because I'm sure you know better) but could they be out of phase (polarity). Either by your doing or the manufacturer's. I know I've seen walkmans that had the channel polarity purposfuly flipped because it gives you a nice wide sounding stereo field (with ear buds). Put the same chanels through speakers and of course the bottom cancels it's self out. Got a phase checker?

I'm with Mark. If I'm not mixing, I'd rather listen to how well my car's running or the music of nature (but that's just me).

I hope you get it worked out.