01-31-2013 08:01 PM - edited 01-31-2013 08:05 PM
Audiopile wrote:Or maybe there's others elsewhere who have figured this out... and you've been fortunated enough to drive on the road they paved?
LOL, I'm about as far from you as one can get here in Connecticut. Unfortunately (?) those venues also tend to have plenty of 110 circuits on stage too so I've not bothered getting a proper distro or needed to pull out my secret weapon from the bad old days (which shall remain undescribed here
).
01-31-2013 08:54 PM
Ok, let's get some standard terminology straight, since 7 pages so far hasn't seemed to sink in yet...
When a service size and type is referenced, industry standard is to specify per leg always. a 120/240V, 50 amp, single phase by definition is 2 phase conductors at 50 amps each, 1 neutral conductor and 1 ground conductor. 2 x 50 amp, 120 volt circuits, also providing 1 x 50 amp, 240 volt circuit. Maximum phase current is 50 amps regardless of connection. Always, if following NEMA and code designation. Always.
120/208V, 3 phase, 100 amp, Y connected is always 3 phase conductors at 100 amp, 1 neutral conductor connected to the junction of the 3 corner phases (1 end of each of the 3 phase windings of the transformer are connected together and to the neutral conductor) and a ground conductor. That's 100 amps, 208 volt, 3 phase, or 3 x 120 volt. Always.
There are other configurations such as 208V or 240V delta, 277V/480V, 3 phase Y connected, 120/240V derived from a 3 phase midpoint tapped delta, etc., but these are well beyond anything you will ever encounter at the level you are at and really do not apply other than if you are looking at the internet there are a lot of inaccurate descriptions tossed around that you might get sidetracked with.
Also, you mention that you can get the cable a lot cheaper... word from the wise and experienced... if you ever buy new UL listed cable for less than 2x the raw copper price with tax & shipping, either it's likely to be stolen, or may not be as represented. I have discovered and rejected cable that looks good until testing and find out that there is some copper clad aluminum, copper clad steel, undersized conductors, etc. Currently, it's about $3.75 (USD) per pound, and with 0.2 lbs/ft for each #2 copper conductor, you will have 0.8 lbs x $3.75/ft = $3/ft x 2 = $6/ft. This is roughly the cost of manufacture of SO type cable excluding freight to the distributor. Add distributor freight, stocking and markups (total ~30%) and that's $7.80/ft x 1.08 (tax) = $8.42 plus shipping, or pretty close to $10/ft. I do this kind of estimating every day, I can smell a rat pretty quickly... that's why I am still in business.
Now you say that I don't know how much you can lift... yes you are right, but I am also damn sure you can't lift 250 feet of #2/4 cable unless you are a freeking gorilla. That's 1.3 lbs/ft x 250' = 325 lbs. of unwieldy cable. Dude, I work with this stuff all the time, I know exactly what I am talking about, so either you are full of crap that you have worked with and coiled and carried this cable before... or you are unbelievably and stubbornly dense.
If you come here asking for help and explaination, don't freekin argue and tell (me) that I am wrong. That's probably rule number one on the road for a newbie... tell the experienced tour manager that from what you read he's wrong. That's career ending in most cases.
01-31-2013 11:42 PM
Road Ranger,
Oh, and I did mention option #2.5 - run two range plug distros. I've seen two outlets in a couple different venues.
-----Yes, someone mentioned that somewhere either here on this forum or another one. Yes, I'm aware that some venues have more than one single 14-50R plug.
For now, I'll just stick to one single plug and work from there.
Yes, if I have to go from option #2 (the 240 volt 14-50R plug situation) to a #3 (3 phase) option, then yes, at that time, if it is indeed not "really" that much different than going to option #4 or 5, then I will consider skipping those options. I guess we'll see when I get there. If I get there.
02-01-2013 12:22 AM
Ok, let's get some standard terminology straight, since 7 pages so far hasn't seemed to sink in yet...
When a service size and type is referenced, industry standard is to specify per leg always. a 120/240V, 50 amp, single phase by definition is 2 phase conductors at 50 amps each, 1 neutral conductor and 1 ground conductor. 2 x 50 amp, 120 volt circuits, also providing 1 x 50 amp, 240 volt circuit. Maximum phase current is 50 amps regardless of connection. Always, if following NEMA and code designation. Always.
It's sank in because I understand this. However, you mentioned a key word there that has been brought up multiple times. The "if" the electrician that installed this stuff is doing things "correctly." Fine, if we assume that it has been done correctly, then we can take that your mention of "always" to be the case. But as many have said, DO NOT TRUST previous work of others and ALWAYS do a check with your own stuff. So, that's why I questioned those things. But since it's been explained that 50 amp service was being brought in on two legs, I understood that.
But nobody clerified if that 50 amp service per leg would be good up to 100 amp total load (50 each) before tripping the breaker UNTIL recently. So, I had no clerification until just a little bit ago. Now I do.
120/208V, 3 phase, 100 amp, Y connected is always 3 phase conductors at 100 amp, 1 neutral conductor connected to the junction of the 3 corner phases (1 end of each of the 3 phase windings of the transformer are connected together and to the neutral conductor) and a ground conductor. That's 100 amps, 208 volt, 3 phase, or 3 x 120 volt. Always.
Okay.
There are other configurations such as 208V or 240V delta, 277V/480V, 3 phase Y connected, 120/240V derived from a 3 phase midpoint tapped delta, etc., but these are well beyond anything you will ever encounter at the level you are at and really do not apply other than if you are looking at the internet there are a lot of inaccurate descriptions tossed around that you might get sidetracked with.
And as such, I'm not concerned with that setup at all. And like you said, I may never have to worry about it.
Also, you mention that you can get the cable a lot cheaper... word from the wise and experienced... if you ever buy new UL listed cable for less than 2x the raw copper price with tax & shipping, either it's likely to be stolen, or may not be as represented.
I understand I would need to do my research but it's no different than shopping around for a car. While looking at cable prices, for a 250' cable under the same 6/4, 4/4, or 2/4 description, prices have been significantly different by as much as 5 or 6 times. That's outrageous. However, in some cases, there have been multiple companies that are very similar in price when comparing apples to apples so I know that money can be saved. I'm not looking to buy wire from a company that "steals" it for crying out loud. I'm looking to get legitimate wire from somewhere that is acceptable by codes and safety standards and so on.
I have discovered and rejected cable that looks good until testing and find out that there is some copper clad aluminum, copper clad steel, undersized conductors, etc.
That's good info to know.
Currently, it's about $3.75 (USD) per pound, and with 0.2 lbs/ft for each #2 copper conductor, you will have 0.8 lbs x $3.75/ft = $3/ft x 2 = $6/ft. This is roughly the cost of manufacture of SO type cable excluding freight to the distributor. Add distributor freight, stocking and markups (total ~30%) and that's $7.80/ft x 1.08 (tax) = $8.42 plus shipping, or pretty close to $10/ft. I do this kind of estimating every day, I can smell a rat pretty quickly... that's why I am still in business.
That's fine but if I can get the same cable for $2 a foot as compared to $8 or $10 a foot, I'm going to do it. I understand that I need to be cautious when considering different companies. It's no different than when clients seek our services and make comparisons between our services to others. When they go with someone else, you may feel that they won't get what you offered from someone else. And quite possibly they won't. But what if they do get what you offer for a less price? Is it wrong for the client to seek out other options? Of course not. I'm simply considering options at this point. But I'll do a lot of research to save money. No different than most people. That's not saying you don't know what you're talking about at all. Not one bit. It's just simply stating that I will make comparisons and if those comparisons happen to show that I can get a cable for 1/2 or even a 1/4 of the cost as getting it somewhere else, then so be it.
Now you say that I don't know how much you can lift... yes you are right, but I am also damn sure you can't lift 250 feet of #2/4 cable unless you are a freeking gorilla.
Well, I never said I could lift it all at once. Nobody does (to my knowledge anyway). But that's different than taking the time to unroll a cable and lift "parts" of it at different times. That's not uncommon.
That's 1.3 lbs/ft x 250' = 325 lbs. of unwieldy cable. Dude, I work with this stuff all the time, I know exactly what I am talking about, (where did I ever say that you didn't? I didn't. I simply gave you reasonings for what I found and how I found it. I never attempted to imply that you didn't know what you were talking about. But just because I want to deal with the PITA cable doesn't mean that you have to shove it in my face every other post and act as if "I" don't know that it's heavy. I have dealt with laying these cables out before and YES, I know their heavy. I never said they weren't. I just said that I would deal with it. Or my staff will. Although I appreciate the concern (don't confuse that part), since you don't have to deal with it, why is everyone so adament about attempting to suggest I go a route that may be "less" practical with regard to time, codes, safety, setup, and cost in the long run? If getting multiple cables turns into be a PITA as well, what am I gaining there?
so either you are full of crap that you have worked with and coiled and carried this cable before... or you are unbelievably and stubbornly dense. (I am stubborn but you don't need to call me dense. That's just simply mean and there's no reason for that. I've been very cordial and even though I question a lot of things or have a different idea about how to go about them, it doesn't make me dense. It actually makes me the opposite. But thanks for making me feel like an ass. With over 40,000 posts, I would assume that you've got an unlimited amount of worthy knowledge to help people like me. But to suggest that "I" don't know what I'm talking about just because I do want to deal with the pain of wrapping and unwrapping heavy SOOW cable on a regular basis is just rude in my opinion. I'm not saying I know what you know. It's more than obvious I don't.
But it's not like I don't understand what rolling this stuff up is like.
We could make similar references to things all day long like a DJ who just has to come in and plug in their laptop to a house system that doesn't understand how the house system works with amplification, speakers, processing, and the whole works. Or, we could say a lead singer doesn't know how to setup because they're a lead singer and they don't like to deal with loading and unloading equipment on a regular basis.
So, we could jump to conclusions on both occasions and "assume" that neither one of them has EVER so much as looked at an amp or a crossover or snake and understood how to hook any of that stuff up when indeed, they may know how just from a few times of setting things up themself.
I don't have to roll and unroll heavy SOOW cable everyday to know it's heavy. A few times of helping someone is good enough. If I choose to deal with it more, that's my choice.
If you come here asking for help and explaination, don't freekin argue (where am I arguing here? Because I ask why I am arguing? Getting clarification or accurate answers is just that. I believe you're reading way, way too much into my typed words because that is all that it is. Don't take more out of it than that. That's the problem with forums and groups online. People get too caught up on certain things and there are misunderstandings right and left.
Where am I arguing with you? I don't know what you know and I'll repeat, I'm confident that you have a ton of knowledge that I couldn't begin to imagine having. I'm envious. But asking questions is not arguing and you NEED to understand the difference.
Some people don't want to comment because I'm sure that this subject is either boring, my posts are too lengthy (probably most of it), or they already know the answers and want to move on to something more interesting. And that's fine. Or maybe there are many taking notes like me. But when I'm not "certain" of something, I'm going to ask about it.
Since one person says one thing and then I have someone else discussing something similar (but yet a little different), I want to get accurate info.
Nobody was willing to discuss more details of the 240 volt single phase 14-50R receptacle and its power supply until recently. Early on it was simply a 50 amp service. That doesn't say much. Come to find out, it's "actually" 2 separate 50 amp services on 120 volt legs to a junction center. From there, it is split amongst two separate legs in the junction and can have 50 amps on each leg at a given time. Or (here's the interesting part that nobody would say right away), that it "actualy" has a total of 100 amps available in the junction spread out amongst the entire power supply.
THAT is NOT arguing, that's getting clarification.
and tell (me) that I am wrong. (see above...I have never tried to say you were wrong nor did I ever want to imply that. If you got that impression in any way, I'm sorry for the confusion but understand that when I say I'm getting info from somewhere, I'm just simply letting you know about it).
That's probably rule number one on the road for a newbie. (you know, I may be a "newb" when it comes to stepping up in the power world with regard to my questions about power distros but I'm not someone who just started a company yesterday or last year for that matter. I've been around you know. But everyone's experiences are different. I just happen not to have much in the way of distros. A little, sure. But not much. That doesn't make me a "newb" in this fun world of entertainment by any means.
. tell the experienced tour manager that from what you read he's wrong. (if you actually believe that I was trying to flat out say "you're wrong" then please, rethink that for a second. I wasn't even trying to do that and I don't know why you have to take this to such far extremes on that level when trying to say that you are or were wrong was so far from anything I wanted to comment about. Saying you're wrong is stupid without some backing. Why would I? As I said, simply pointing out that I read it was to reference something rather than just throw up a "nuh uh" statement. If the place I got from is wrong, then please explain why and correct it. That's where I (we) will learn. Not from you getting upset because I simply pointed out where I got it.)
that's career ending in most cases.
02-01-2013 12:38 AM - edited 02-01-2013 12:41 AM
And again,
While we're discussing cable size, as has been stated multiple times, there have been many that have "got by" with 6/4 cable for long runs. Some have used 4/4 and it's been fine too. Others are recommending 2/4. Obviously, we're talking about quite a few differences between the cables with regard to price, safety, and power availabilty. Oh yeah...and code acceptance for "most" areas.
In which case, if people are going to discuss "what they've used" in situations, it would be nice if they would kindly give a disclaimer about whether or not "what they've done" is up to code or not. At least that way, we can steer away from that same setup if it isn't up to code. Having the info is better than not. At least that way there isn't confusion about who's doing what and why.
And regarding code, that in itself may not be the best option either. But, if it is, I think it should be one to highly consider since I believe "most" ordinances and codes are meant to keep us safe. In that regard, if you want to suggest running a 2/4 SOOW cable for 250' or 300' distances, that is fine. But if code allows for 4/4 or even 6/4, then please say so. Giving goods and bads for either one is what discussion is all about.
In the end, a 4/4 cable may be more than acceptable for a 250' run. Or even a 300' run. Although there is concern about power loss over this long of a run, if it's well within limits, then why suggest to do something different just because "it's the way it's been done?" I'm sure people have many reasons for why they may decide to use 2/4 cable for 250' or 300' runs as opposed to 4/4 or 6/4 and some of those reasons have been laid out here. And definately noted. But there may be some other reasons that haven't been mentioned.
Either way, if a 4/4 cable will take care of my needs for a 250' or 300' run or at the very least, a 150' main feeder run (extension cable) with the distro wire having 6/4 on it for 75' or 100', then that can definately be a significant savings in money WITHOUT sacrificing safety and power and that's a good thing isn't it?
02-01-2013 04:47 AM - edited 02-01-2013 04:50 AM
02-01-2013 05:39 AM
RoadRanger wrote:I do think we've reached my favorite part of the discussion:
Seconds out...... round 5....
02-01-2013 05:45 AM
agedhorse wrote:Now you say that I don't know how much you can lift... yes you are right, but I am also damn sure you can't lift 250 feet of #2/4 cable unless you are a freeking gorilla. That's 1.3 lbs/ft x 250' = 325 lbs. of unwieldy cable. Dude, I work with this stuff all the time, I know exactly what I am talking about, so either you are full of crap that you have worked with and coiled and carried this cable before... or you are unbelievably and stubbornly dense.
Wrestling power cable is a PITA! My biggest distro cable (now) is 6/4 @ 100 ft. I did have a 150' at one time, it was only 150' for one event. It was quickly divided into two 75' sections.
I do have some 4ott/3 + 1ott cable rated at 5KV (mining cable extension cord). That takes it to a whole new level!
02-01-2013 07:16 AM
RoadRanger wrote:LOL, I'm about as far from you as one can get here in Connecticut. *Unfortunately (?) those venues also tend to have plenty of 110 circuits on stage too so I've not bothered getting a proper distro* or needed to pull out my secret weapon from the bad old days (which shall remain undescribed here
).
You bring up a good point with *that*.
Where I'm located, generally speaking: Many/ most venues I work are seriously under equipped as far as properly functioning (or otherwise) dedicated 110v circuits on stage goes. The 110v outlets that may exist on stage are commonly physically dysfunctional (or seriously compromised), and have been that way for decades, and/or are partially or heavily loaded... rendering them pretty much useless for anything beyond minimal use by the stage activities. Generally the first thing I ask when solicited to work a venue is: "What's available for stage power?" The common answer is: "Plenty... bands play here all the time." I've found that answer is generally meaningless. Next step is generally to personally assess the stage power situation. If (as is generally the case) I determine that the stage power situation is hopeless to support anything more than a mime act in the dark, and if it's feasible, I'll generally personally pay to have an electrician install one or preferably two 14-50 outlets... generally in close proximity to the venue's main service. That solves the stage power situation for my needs, and as a bonus, since I'm one of the few in the area that can utilize the service... I've basically paid a modest fee to somewhat assure that I'm a preferred vendor. Of-course, if the stage power situation is under equipped to support my requested activities, and improvements to rectify the situation are not in the realm of possibilities... I pass on the gig.
02-01-2013 07:52 AM
theshow wrote:Either way, if a 4/4 cable will take care of my needs for a 250' or 300' run or at the very least, a 150' main feeder run (extension cable) with the distro wire having 6/4 on it for 75' or 100',
It's been touched on earlier in this thread, but mating connectors may be an issue. I'm no expert, but I have some experience in this matter, and it seems to me that connectors are designed and constructed to "match-up" to the cable based on the rated ampacity of the cable. I'm of the understanding that 4 ga. copper conductors are rated at somewhere around 80 amps (CU max enclosed)... 6 ga. is rated at 60 amps. I'm also of the impression that 50 amp rated is the upper limit of what's commonly available in twist-lock connectors... going above 50 amps in a outdoor rated connector likely gets into the realm of pin & sleeve connectors (read that probably north of $500 per mating pair).
I might be all wet on this... I dunno.
02-01-2013 08:02 AM - edited 02-01-2013 08:04 AM
02-01-2013 09:33 AM
RoadRanger wrote:I carry a couple of those cheap flat air conditioner extension cords with the flat right angle plugs for those crappy outlets that don't retain plugs well - sometimes gaff them to the wall too
.
A few of my quad boxes have right angle plugs which work excellent for my distro. I try and use those first for most setups.
02-01-2013 01:20 PM
theshow wrote:
Currently, it's about $3.75 (USD) per pound, and with 0.2 lbs/ft for each #2 copper conductor, you will have 0.8 lbs x $3.75/ft = $3/ft x 2 = $6/ft. This is roughly the cost of manufacture of SO type cable excluding freight to the distributor. Add distributor freight, stocking and markups (total ~30%) and that's $7.80/ft x 1.08 (tax) = $8.42 plus shipping, or pretty close to $10/ft. I do this kind of estimating every day, I can smell a rat pretty quickly... that's why I am still in business.
That's fine but if I can get the same cable for $2 a foot as compared to $8 or $10 a foot, I'm going to do it. I understand that I need to be cautious when considering different companies. It's just simply stating that I will make comparisons and if those comparisons happen to show that I can get a cable for 1/2 or even a 1/4 of the cost as getting it somewhere else, then so be it.
Just check the discounted cable to make sure it didn't get damaged when it "fell off the truck" ![]()
I must say that although the content of this thread is serious, as are it's implications, it has brought a smile to my face many times - probably for the wrong reasons.
This thread topic is not my area of expertise so the only thing I can say is: listen to agedhorse. You'll save yourself a lot of time and grief.
02-01-2013 03:46 PM
I can say without a doubt, if you find cable at 1/2 or 1/4 the industy going rate, it will be below the cost of the copper contained in the cable and therefore unlikely as hell to be genuine, or even copper. If you do find copper cable at this price, I suggest that it would be more profitable than operating anything in the sound business to buy as many truckloads as you can and sell it to the scrap man. Anything too good to be true ends up being too good to be true. This is a perfect example, but greed and the thought of pulling one over on the industry is what drives some stubborn or dense (oh no, there's that word again...) folks to destruction.
#2 wire is not allowed in any of the newstyle twistlocks I looked at, and same applies to the standard 14-50 so #2 won't fit the terminals (fails an inspection if the inspecter knows his stuff) as well as the the overall cable diameter beingtoo big for the clamp. Therefore, it should not be a option vecause it's not safe, in spite of what you might have heard or thought.
02-01-2013 03:55 PM
Here is the distro I built for a fun project.
02-03-2013 09:01 PM
Just check the discounted cable to make sure it didn't get damaged when it "fell off the truck" 
I must say that although the content of this thread is serious, as are it's implications, it has brought a smile to my face many times - probably for the wrong reasons.
This thread topic is not my area of expertise so the only thing I can say is: listen to agedhorse. You'll save yourself a lot of time and grief.
Shaster,
I'm not just going to buy the first thing that is available. Nor am I just going to buy the cheapest either. I will be evaluating many different cables before making a decision.
I think Agedhorse has got a lot of valuable information. He does have some very valid points and I have considered them as well as many other things as well. There is a lot of great info from everyone.
To come up with a solution isn't easy but I want to make the right decision in the end.
02-03-2013 09:19 PM
I can say without a doubt, if you find cable at 1/2 or 1/4 the industy going rate, it will be below the cost of the copper contained in the cable and therefore unlikely as hell to be genuine, or even copper. If you do find copper cable at this price, I suggest that it would be more profitable than operating anything in the sound business to buy as many truckloads as you can and sell it to the scrap man. Anything too good to be true ends up being too good to be true. This is a perfect example, but greed and the thought of pulling one over on the industry is what drives some stubborn or dense (oh no, there's that word again...) folks to destruction.
#2 wire is not allowed in any of the newstyle twistlocks I looked at, and same applies to the standard 14-50 so #2 won't fit the terminals (fails an inspection if the inspecter knows his stuff) as well as the the overall cable diameter beingtoo big for the clamp. Therefore, it should not be a option vecause it's not safe, in spite of what you might have heard or thought.
Aged,
I will be looking into whatever I find to make sure it's going to work. I'm not going to be buying the first thing I come across.
I understand that "deals" aren't easy to come by and usually things are too good to be true so if I do happen to find something very reasonable, perhaps I will consider buying and selling it as a side business for the scrap.
As far as "pulling one over" on the industry, there's no secret to what I would be attempting to do. I'm simply searching for a good product at a good price. Your comments suggest that it is not really possible to get something for less than other people just because that price has been paid time and time again. Companies compete all the time Aged and as such, they change their prices. Just because I wouldn't choose to pay what you may have paid doesn't mean that I'm wrong. If you want to continue to pay a certain price for something and happens to be more than I would, that's your choice. But don't make it sound like I can't possibly find a better deal when it just might be possible.
I have no greed involved with my exploration in this project nor do I have these illusions of what it may take to get the project completed by any means. Your comments are unnecessary and I don't know why you have an issue with the possibility that I may be able to find something cheaper but that's your thing. Your rude comments need to go because they have no place in this discussion. I don't appreciate them nor do I deserve them because I have been respectful towards you and the others on here. I don't know why you have to feel the need to say the things you do but maybe it makes you feel good. I don't know.
And I'll say again, with as many posts as you have (upwards of 41,000 plus), you should know better than to be such a jerk to someone asking for some help.
I'm appreciative of your wisdom and knowledge and your suggestions and concerns, but to call somebody names is just petty when it was undeserved.
You can disagree that I wouldn't buy from a supplier that you would recommend but that is my choice.
As for wire size, currently I can only find connectors that allow for 4 gauge wire to go into either end (receptacle or plug) so you may be correct that 2 gauge won't even fit in the first place and therefore wouldn't be an option. I am still looking at different connectors and I guess I'll have to see if there is one out there that will accept 2 gauge. If I have to use a smaller gauge wire, it would make my long run difficult to have and be up to codes and so on. I'm still looking and still needing to research the best options at this point.
I'll have to go back through the many notes and see what is acceptable for the run I am looking to do. Perhaps I will be limited to certain things and that's that. I know that others have used 4 and 6 gauge runs for long distances but I would like to make sure it's going to be safe and up to code before I go investing into either size cable.
02-03-2013 09:20 PM
02-03-2013 10:59 PM
02-03-2013 11:18 PM
Aged,
Where did I say you were wrong? I'll ask you to point that out.
And I'll ask you to point out where I haven't learned something as well.
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