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A long time ago, before the first DSLRs were made, many people asked for this on photo forums:
http://nikonrumors.com/2012/12/17/ni...px/#more-50
The small size of the RX1 shows it is now possible.
It would also mean if Nikon ever did it Canon users could get a Sony/Nikon sensor for their new CaNikony
http://nikonrumors.com/2012/12/17/ni...px/#more-50
The small size of the RX1 shows it is now possible.
It would also mean if Nikon ever did it Canon users could get a Sony/Nikon sensor for their new CaNikony
Originally Posted by wwwjd
hahahahaha is that the camera into a MIRROR??? Doesn't that cause the universe to implode or something?? 
That was cool!
Video Editing SKEERED me until I found VEGAS. It works like a DAW and ran pretty fast on my older, weak PC. But be warned, video editing can be addictive!
But you made me think of something very interesting: great video out of the box... like yours, mine seems a little to dynamic, too black, not really showing everything clear - where FLAT settings help bring out everything (washed out looking) then you get to tune it like you want. But couldn't one do PART of that in the camera? So there is nothing to tweak once it is out of the camera?
Flatten out showing more detail by flattening Sharp: 3 contrast: -4 Saturation +2 or whatever (I cant remember the actual possible settings in me head), tune it to look great coming out instead of editing it. hmmmmm. imma have to try that. That might seem like a no brainer, but if you dont color your video, you gotta do it in camera
Calibration IS important. But you can't let that stop you. I'm pretty decent at calibrating, but am still learning the "allowed" color levels. My poor man's cheat is to calibrate my editing monitor exactly like my TV: using color bars, DVE video disc, AVSJD709 free disc, and even those THX SETUPs on DVDs. If it looks the same on your editing monitor, and on your TV, then it will look nearly the same everywhere. Check youtube too, of course. It does some weird stuff to the color space. (see LEVELS)
Forgot to mention: I went back to SHARP 3 because I don't think I know enough of how to SHARPEN in post, of if I have good tools. Anything past 3 starts to show those lines... but 0 was too soft for me. I did a bunch of tests on a test pattern and decided 3 worked best for me
That was cool!Video Editing SKEERED me until I found VEGAS. It works like a DAW and ran pretty fast on my older, weak PC. But be warned, video editing can be addictive!
But you made me think of something very interesting: great video out of the box... like yours, mine seems a little to dynamic, too black, not really showing everything clear - where FLAT settings help bring out everything (washed out looking) then you get to tune it like you want. But couldn't one do PART of that in the camera? So there is nothing to tweak once it is out of the camera?
Flatten out showing more detail by flattening Sharp: 3 contrast: -4 Saturation +2 or whatever (I cant remember the actual possible settings in me head), tune it to look great coming out instead of editing it. hmmmmm. imma have to try that. That might seem like a no brainer, but if you dont color your video, you gotta do it in camera
Calibration IS important. But you can't let that stop you. I'm pretty decent at calibrating, but am still learning the "allowed" color levels. My poor man's cheat is to calibrate my editing monitor exactly like my TV: using color bars, DVE video disc, AVSJD709 free disc, and even those THX SETUPs on DVDs. If it looks the same on your editing monitor, and on your TV, then it will look nearly the same everywhere. Check youtube too, of course. It does some weird stuff to the color space. (see LEVELS)
Forgot to mention: I went back to SHARP 3 because I don't think I know enough of how to SHARPEN in post, of if I have good tools. Anything past 3 starts to show those lines... but 0 was too soft for me. I did a bunch of tests on a test pattern and decided 3 worked best for me
I was looking through the mount with the naked eye to see how the mirror and the shutter work mechanically (amazing stuff) and noticed a few sparkly little dots. I knew they were the AF points, so I grabbed my Lumix FZ35, mounted the Raynox macro lens and got a closer look. I still can't tell on what surface they're embedded. I thought AF points are embedded on the sensor itself, but they are not. It looks like they're located on a thin rectangular surface that is activated only when the mirror is down, right between the sensor and the mirror (Bernard to the rescue!)Great video right out of the box: that's what I am working towards. To do this, I know (0,-4,-2,0) can't be the right parameters for that, especially with sharpness set to 0 and contrast set to -4.
I wonder if it's possible to find out the settings they used for that CINESTYLE template.
About monitor calibration, etc: you are right that it shouldn't stop me. Plus, I don't think I'm ready to start messing with this variable yet (there are already too many other important variables to worry about). Also, I just remembered that I replaced the screen of my laptop (old one was broken), so this new screen isn't the original (I think it's refurbished, unbranded). Bernard also mentioned to me once that with today's technology, it's unlikely that my screen suffers from major uncalibration issues. I think calibrating your PC monitor to your TV screen is a great idea for the reason you mentioned.
Now I'm going to research an extremely important point you raised before: the truth about the Full HD-ness of the 600D. Why shoot Full HD if it's not Full HD? I'll just stick to 720p then. Good news for my weak laptop, but very BAD for Canon IF it's true that it's not Full HD
lol Midinut, those were "opportunity shots" I took as I was driving around. Never really saw horses that close, so I got out of the car and started shooting. I had just gotten that compact cam from eBay. I wanted it solely for its massive optical zoom.
I will go back to that ranch when the weather gets better, but this time with the Rebel!
I will go back to that ranch when the weather gets better, but this time with the Rebel!
Picked this up not too long ago.
Nice little find. by Computer Controlled, on Flickr
Been on a 35mm point and shoot kick lately =o]
Nice little find. by Computer Controlled, on Flickr
Been on a 35mm point and shoot kick lately =o]
Originally Posted by Mediterranean
Now I'm going to research an extremely important point you raised before: the truth about the Full HD-ness of the 600D. Why shoot Full HD if it's not Full HD? I'll just stick to 720p then. Good news for my weak laptop, but very BAD for Canon IF it's true that it's not Full HD
Originally Posted by Acid Hazard
Picked this up not too long ago.
Nice little find. by Computer Controlled, on Flickr
Been on a 35mm point and shoot kick lately =o]
Nice little find. by Computer Controlled, on Flickr
Been on a 35mm point and shoot kick lately =o]
As WIKI says and I recall in the past:
''The Stylus Epic is somewhat of a cult classic among avid photographers due to quality and speed of the lens, a rare attribute among compact cameras.''
I know a causal user that did not get on with it, so it still needs a good hand at the shutter release ;-)
Originally Posted by wwwjd
I recorded 3 ten-second-long NTSC vids of the same subject, from the same distance, under the same lighting conditions, with the same camera parameters. The camera was hand held.
Video 1: 1080p, 30fps -----> 54.2 MB
Video 2: 1080p, 24fps -----> 51.5 MB
Video 3: 720p, 60fps -----> 50.4 MB
I cannot reach a factual conclusion about whether the 600D is full HD or not because the fps is not consistent. An ideal, conclusive test would be the same fps for both 1080p and 720p, for example: comparing 1080p-30fps to 720p-30fps.
Which brings me to question why the hell aren't all fps's (24, 30, 50, and 60) implemented for both 1080p and 720p.
Anyway, I personally believe this camera is not full HD @ 1080p. But I couldn't verify this anywhere on the internet.
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