08-28-2013 09:28 PM
Just go play some.
Forget electronics in the lower price ranges. Add em yourself later if you need to.
Yamis are hard to beat for the price. Seagull S6 is good. I have a Recording King.R07 I like. Look for at least a solid wood top. The Blueridges are nice too.
You really need to get to 700-1000 for a solid wood (new) guitar. Its worth it tho IMO.
08-29-2013 06:48 AM
08-29-2013 08:33 AM
Have a listen to the ' Faith' range if you can.
I wouldn't have thought that Faith were widely available in the US. I now only bother really looking at Tanglewood (mid to high end used) and Faith
08-29-2013 08:34 AM
harold heckuba wrote:
Two really good brands are Walden
The Waldens I've handled were excellent, as are the Recording Kings (mid to high end)
08-29-2013 09:25 AM - edited 08-29-2013 09:31 AM
It should be set up pretty well out of the box. Anything you buy should play a heck of a lot better than your old guitar with the bowed neck and worn out frets.
If you know how to check for proper neck relief and tweak the truss rod if needed then go ahead. The truss rod works the same way as an electric guitar. But if you do not know what you are doing, please take it to a pro set up guy who does acoustics.
If after a while you feel the nut needs work, or the action could be lower, take it to a professional. This stuff takes woodworking skills and tools for an acoustic guitar. Not just a twist of a screwdriver.
The white thingy is called the saddle. Lowering the action usually involves taking it out and sanding some material off the bottom of it.
An electric guitar is a plank of wood w strings on it. Pretty simple. A shadetree mechanic can usually get the job done, or if he screws it up it can can usually be fixed by a skilled mechanic.
An acoustic is more of a live, breathing thing. Not a good idea to get it worked on by a butcher. It requires the skills of a surgeon.
08-29-2013 01:30 PM
I usually sand the saddle down on a really flat bench (place the sand paper down flat on the bench facing upwards 120-240 grit has worked fine for me), being very careful to keep it perfectly 90 degrees to the surface. Do a little at a time, you might not need to at all though, depends on how you like your action.
Going to low on an acoustic can make the guitar sound thin and tinny, taking away warmth and bass response, it's a compromise. Anything below 2mm on the low E at the 12th fret will impact the tone considerably.
I like a low nut too, I gently tap it out and use the same procedure as above for the saddle. If you have nut files, do that or again, it may be fine stock.
Truss rod is the same as an electric, good luck.
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