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Hey, 9-Pin!
i'm looking to have the entire guitar refin'd as what I call a "black top"; gloss black top with honey-stained back and sides; like a gold top, but with black instead. the original finish on this Deluxe was never doing it for me; I have some wine red guitars that i think are dead-sexy, but this one ain't it. i think the new look will be awesome, and i've always wanted a blacktop.
i've got all the hardware and a set of creme P90s and she's going to be a killer when all is completed!
i'm looking to have the entire guitar refin'd as what I call a "black top"; gloss black top with honey-stained back and sides; like a gold top, but with black instead. the original finish on this Deluxe was never doing it for me; I have some wine red guitars that i think are dead-sexy, but this one ain't it. i think the new look will be awesome, and i've always wanted a blacktop.
i've got all the hardware and a set of creme P90s and she's going to be a killer when all is completed!
Originally Posted by GreatDane
Hey, 9-Pin!
i'm looking to have the entire guitar refin'd as what I call a "black top"; gloss black top with honey-stained back and sides; like a gold top, but with black instead. the original finish on this Deluxe was never doing it for me; I have some wine red guitars that i think are dead-sexy, but this one ain't it. i think the new look will be awesome, and i've always wanted a blacktop.
i'm looking to have the entire guitar refin'd as what I call a "black top"; gloss black top with honey-stained back and sides; like a gold top, but with black instead. the original finish on this Deluxe was never doing it for me; I have some wine red guitars that i think are dead-sexy, but this one ain't it. i think the new look will be awesome, and i've always wanted a blacktop.
Well, after talking with my dad, we're very excited to do it for you.
I forgot to send you in PM the amount of time it would take us. The stripping and surface prep would probably take one to two good shop days. The finishing process will likely take 2 weeks, to allow time to cure between stages. This may take longer if we wind up replacing the binding. Finally, after the clear coats go on, it has to sit 2 weeks before the final buffing can begin. This takes about 2 days and can be followed by the final assembly, but putting a week in between buffing and assembly is something we STRONGLY recommend.
So you're looking at 5-6 weeks, I'd say.
However, we do have some concerns. We've worked on Wine Red Gibsons before, and the thing about Wine Red is that it's appears to be a wood dye, more like a stain than a color coat. We're concerned that we might not be able to get the red all the way out of the back, not without sanding to the point of changing the shape of the guitar.
How would you feel about the back being reddish, or a heavily tinted brown? In the pictures you've supplied thus far, the mahogany on THAT guitar is actually natural. It's very light. We may be able to stain it a darker brown, but it might not stand out as much as the pic above. More like the dark back goldtops.
The thing about this project is, in order to preserve the instrument as much as possible, we can't use chemical strippers. That would likely melt the binding and other plastics, not to mention, its just in general bad for set-neck guitars.
What we will do is, stain a piece of mahogany wine red (or a very close approximation, and then test different dyes on it to see what turns it brown. I'm thinking green, believe it or not. If you add green (or yellow with less blue), you can make a brownish color. But we'll try the whole pallete of wood dyes we have here and see what we can come up with.
But I could be wrong. Lacquer thinner and some light sanding might take it right off. Anyone have any experience with that?
In any event, the top should be just fine. We're confident that we can use pinstriping and tape to mask the binding, and if it bleeds through, we're prepared to replace the binding if that's what you want.
I forgot to send you in PM the amount of time it would take us. The stripping and surface prep would probably take one to two good shop days. The finishing process will likely take 2 weeks, to allow time to cure between stages. This may take longer if we wind up replacing the binding. Finally, after the clear coats go on, it has to sit 2 weeks before the final buffing can begin. This takes about 2 days and can be followed by the final assembly, but putting a week in between buffing and assembly is something we STRONGLY recommend.
So you're looking at 5-6 weeks, I'd say.
However, we do have some concerns. We've worked on Wine Red Gibsons before, and the thing about Wine Red is that it's appears to be a wood dye, more like a stain than a color coat. We're concerned that we might not be able to get the red all the way out of the back, not without sanding to the point of changing the shape of the guitar.
How would you feel about the back being reddish, or a heavily tinted brown? In the pictures you've supplied thus far, the mahogany on THAT guitar is actually natural. It's very light. We may be able to stain it a darker brown, but it might not stand out as much as the pic above. More like the dark back goldtops.
The thing about this project is, in order to preserve the instrument as much as possible, we can't use chemical strippers. That would likely melt the binding and other plastics, not to mention, its just in general bad for set-neck guitars.
What we will do is, stain a piece of mahogany wine red (or a very close approximation, and then test different dyes on it to see what turns it brown. I'm thinking green, believe it or not. If you add green (or yellow with less blue), you can make a brownish color. But we'll try the whole pallete of wood dyes we have here and see what we can come up with.
But I could be wrong. Lacquer thinner and some light sanding might take it right off. Anyone have any experience with that?
In any event, the top should be just fine. We're confident that we can use pinstriping and tape to mask the binding, and if it bleeds through, we're prepared to replace the binding if that's what you want.
Originally Posted by Ryan Trevisol
Well, after talking with my dad, we're very excited to do it for you.
I forgot to send you in PM the amount of time it would take us. The stripping and surface prep would probably take one to two good shop days. The finishing process will likely take 2 weeks, to allow time to cure between stages. This may take longer if we wind up replacing the binding. Finally, after the clear coats go on, it has to sit 2 weeks before the final buffing can begin. This takes about 2 days and can be followed by the final assembly, but putting a week in between buffing and assembly is something we STRONGLY recommend.
So you're looking at 5-6 weeks, I'd say.
However, we do have some concerns. We've worked on Wine Red Gibsons before, and the thing about Wine Red is that it's appears to be a wood dye, more like a stain than a color coat. We're concerned that we might not be able to get the red all the way out of the back, not without sanding to the point of changing the shape of the guitar.
How would you feel about the back being reddish, or a heavily tinted brown? In the pictures you've supplied thus far, the mahogany on THAT guitar is actually natural. It's very light. We may be able to stain it a darker brown, but it might not stand out as much as the pic above. More like the dark back goldtops.
The thing about this project is, in order to preserve the instrument as much as possible, we can't use chemical strippers. That would likely melt the binding and other plastics, not to mention, its just in general bad for set-neck guitars.
What we will do is, stain a piece of mahogany wine red (or a very close approximation, and then test different dyes on it to see what turns it brown. I'm thinking green, believe it or not. If you add green (or yellow with less blue), you can make a brownish color. But we'll try the whole pallete of wood dyes we have here and see what we can come up with.
But I could be wrong. Lacquer thinner and some light sanding might take it right off. Anyone have any experience with that?
In any event, the top should be just fine. We're confident that we can use pinstriping and tape to mask the binding, and if it bleeds through, we're prepared to replace the binding if that's what you want.
I forgot to send you in PM the amount of time it would take us. The stripping and surface prep would probably take one to two good shop days. The finishing process will likely take 2 weeks, to allow time to cure between stages. This may take longer if we wind up replacing the binding. Finally, after the clear coats go on, it has to sit 2 weeks before the final buffing can begin. This takes about 2 days and can be followed by the final assembly, but putting a week in between buffing and assembly is something we STRONGLY recommend.
So you're looking at 5-6 weeks, I'd say.
However, we do have some concerns. We've worked on Wine Red Gibsons before, and the thing about Wine Red is that it's appears to be a wood dye, more like a stain than a color coat. We're concerned that we might not be able to get the red all the way out of the back, not without sanding to the point of changing the shape of the guitar.
How would you feel about the back being reddish, or a heavily tinted brown? In the pictures you've supplied thus far, the mahogany on THAT guitar is actually natural. It's very light. We may be able to stain it a darker brown, but it might not stand out as much as the pic above. More like the dark back goldtops.
The thing about this project is, in order to preserve the instrument as much as possible, we can't use chemical strippers. That would likely melt the binding and other plastics, not to mention, its just in general bad for set-neck guitars.
What we will do is, stain a piece of mahogany wine red (or a very close approximation, and then test different dyes on it to see what turns it brown. I'm thinking green, believe it or not. If you add green (or yellow with less blue), you can make a brownish color. But we'll try the whole pallete of wood dyes we have here and see what we can come up with.
But I could be wrong. Lacquer thinner and some light sanding might take it right off. Anyone have any experience with that?
In any event, the top should be just fine. We're confident that we can use pinstriping and tape to mask the binding, and if it bleeds through, we're prepared to replace the binding if that's what you want.
http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles...ood_bleach.
anyone else heard of safely bleaching wood (in addition to stripping and sanding) to reduce or eliminate dye finishes? it's apparently somewhat common with antique finishers.
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