Effects - Pedals, Multi-Effects, and Floor Boxes

[briansr]

hi there.. though this might help/encourage some folks out there to pop the hood on your unit if its giving you trouble, since i haven't found any good tutorial/ pic guide on how to correct faulty switches on these

i was actually surprised how crappy the switching mechanism really is, its definitely not made to be gigged (unless you are EXTREMELY careful and step on it with silk socks)... less take the common beatings of the road.. as expected, it crapped out a couple of days before a show.. so this is more of a quick/temporal fix ... i plan on replacing all the switches with metal heavy duty SPST momentaries

my unit had 2 non responsive switches (record /tap) both totally dead, one of them was even coming loose, i found that the nut that holds the switch in place (from inside) came loose on both cases, and the spring in one switch was stuck, and on the other was totally missing (never found it)

first these were the tools i used

not pictured (allen wrech for the switch base)

unscrewing the botom plate

removing the bottom plate is kinda tricky, you have to push it to the side first and work it.

then you need you deatach the PCB of the row of the switches youll be working on
(make sure you do this on a flat/stable surface since there are some small moving parts that can fall and easily get lost)
 

 be gentle, you dont want to snap any of the holders, or worst the board itself

below a couple more shots/angles of the switching mechanism

here a pic of the switches (bottom and up) ..dont mess with this unless you are de-soldering and replacing them with new switches.. also.. dont try to remove the PCB unless you know what your doing.. the plug/connector seems to be glued-in/sealed tightly

i found that even though the mounted switches are not the best for job, they were still responsive and working.. and the issues (at least mine) came from these fuckers (pictured below) the spring and the actioner that makes contact with the mounted switch

so.. anyways, hope this helps
here goes a large gut pics for you geeks : guts


PD:
for replacement instructions, ive found little specific info, maybe someone else can chime in here with more experience, 

the first thing to consider is the limited space betwen the chasis and the PCB, ive seen most DIY'ers using these for DL4, .. specs: Rated 4 Amps / 125 Vac.  anybody have actual experience with these on M13/M9? 

find it here:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PB-142/MOMENTARY-PUSHBUTTON-SPST-N.O.-4-AMP/1.html

secondly diagram instructions on the wiring, again this one is for the DL4.. i dont see how it could be much different for the new M-series, but any input is appreciated!

[WAWBanks]

Thanks for this. Useful info!

[goodhonk]

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WAWBanks wrote:
Thanks for this. Useful info!

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worth at least one kudos, no?

[chrisjnyc]

How did you wire up the new switches? Remove the PCBs?

[macadood]

awesome brian sr.

any ideas on how to fix a faulty output socket? my mono out just died on me for no reason

[briansr]

i havent replace the switches yet...  i just got them working as they come...  
but ill get on that later.. hopefully by then someone will shed some light on that

i assume you would need first:

• remove the current switches ( removing the nut that tightens the allen-screw  that holds the chrome base in place)

• unsolder with care the mounted PCB switches..  with a soldering iron 

• install the new SPST metal swiches through the chrome base that holds the LED,

• solder the new SPST end connections to the PCB( not 100% sure about the diagram on the original post.. since its not for the Mseries, but its likely to work)

• get it all together again

[briansr]

to: macadood

you could check to see if the terminals need some care/revival.. since the unit is made of 2 metal plates (not very tightly sealed) moisture tends to get in 

other than that... replacing it would be fairly complicated from what i encountered.. but not impossible 

(if your not using a stereo rig.. you could still use the left output with no difference) .. another idea would be... if you dont use the FX loop, i think you can configure it to run after all your FXs and use the FX loop out

[goodhonk]

Line6, only as good as the warranty.

[chrisjnyc]

I have used my M9 for about 3 years without a problem.

Yea, Line 6 has some issues with bad switches\DOA pedals, but I don't think its a high percentage. Look how many DL4 pedals are out there at any time. Next to the Boss DD pedal its one of the most popular delay pedals in the last 10+ years.

[briansr]

its a matter of use, if you gig it, its just a matter of time, it will break

dont get me wrong, i love my M13, but the build quality sucks

[macadood]

yet people gig with boss pedals since the early 80s with no problems whatsoever O.o

[goodhonk]

boss 4 lyf

[chrisjnyc]

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briansr wrote:

its a matter of use, if you gig it, its just a matter of time, it will break

dont get me wrong, i love my M13, but the build quality sucks

---

Yea, I hear you, the build quality is not there, but how much better could it be at that price point?  Its not like a standard stomp box with some soldered parts and knobs. I think  you have 2 types of musical  equipment out there.

1. Stuff that is built to last, which is generally more expensive

2. Gear made in China, that sounds good, but is probably not going to go the distance

[chrisjnyc]

---

briansr wrote:

hi there.. though this might help/encourage some folks out there to pop the hood on your unit if its giving you trouble, since i haven't found any good tutorial/ pic guide on how to correct faulty switches on these

i was actually surprised how crappy the switching mechanism really is, its definitely not made to be gigged (unless you are EXTREMELY careful and step on it with silk socks)... less take the common beatings of the road.. as expected, it crapped out a couple of days before a show.. so this is more of a quick/temporal fix ... i plan on replacing all the switches with metal heavy duty SPST momentaries

my unit had 2 non responsive switches (record /tap) both totally dead, one of them was even coming loose, i found that the nut that holds the switch in place (from inside) came loose on both cases, and the spring in one switch was stuck, and on the other was totally missing (never found it)

first these were the tools i used

not pictured (allen wrech for the switch base)

unscrewing the botom plate

removing the bottom plate is kinda tricky, you have to push it to the side first and work it.

then you need you deatach the PCB of the row of the switches youll be working on
(make sure you do this on a flat/stable surface since there are some small moving parts that can fall and easily get lost)
 

 be gentle, you dont want to snap any of the holders, or worst the board itself

below a couple more shots/angles of the switching mechanism

here a pic of the switches (bottom and up) ..dont mess with this unless you are de-soldering and replacing them with new switches.. also.. dont try to remove the PCB unless you know what your doing.. the plug/connector seems to be glued-in/sealed tightly

i found that even though the mounted switches are not the best for job, they were still responsive and working.. and the issues (at least mine) came from these fuckers (pictured below) the spring and the actioner that makes contact with the mounted switch

so.. anyways, hope this helps
here goes a large gut pics for you geeks : guts


PD:
for replacement instructions, ive found little specific info, maybe someone else can chime in here with more experience, 

the first thing to consider is the limited space betwen the chasis and the PCB, ive seen most DIY'ers using these for DL4, .. specs: Rated 4 Amps / 125 Vac.  anybody have actual experience with these on M13/M9? 

find it here:
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PB-142/MOMENTARY-PUSHBUTTON-SPST-N.O.-4-AMP/1.html

secondly diagram instructions on the wiring, again this one is for the DL4.. i dont see how it could be much different for the new M-series, but any input is appreciated!

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How is the switch repair going?

[chrisjnyc]

No updates?

Anyone have an issue with a volume drop when they use any of the FX on the M9? Mine just started acting up... damn!

[goodhonk]

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chrisjnyc wrote:

No updates?

Anyone have an issue with a volume drop when they use any of the FX on the M9? Mine just started acting up... damn!

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my m13 did that in the "true bypass" mode.

[Hot12ax7]

This exactly why I stay the hell from L6.   Awesome egineering just wish they would make their product a little more durable.

-Tattoedsailor