09-15-2013 08:28 AM
I went out to empty the trash and found this in the trash can.
Nina, the tenant upstairs, the typical welfare mom, has several young kids and cannot afford a terrible lot. She threw this guitar away after someone put steel strings on a guitar built for nylon strings, and then over tightend the strings. This snapped two dowels holing the neck into the block and seperated the back from the sides. Apparently, the guitar had had a loose neck for a while because the tongue of the fretboard is also warped.
You can see from the clamp, I am in the process of repairing the guitar. When it is done, I will return put the correct strings on it and give it back to Nina for her children. They do not know that I retrieved it from the trash can. I think it will be a nice surprise.
09-15-2013 08:29 AM
Now that the back is properly attached to the sides, the next thing to do is to reglue the freboard tongue onto the neck where it is pulling away.
I worked glue into the crack between the fretboard and the neck. I then grabbed my fret leveling beam to use as a mounting and truing surface and clamped the neck to the beam. While I was at it, I looked at the neck to check for torqueing. While I did not see any that could not be corrected with a fret leveling, I think it is a good idea to correct what little there is. Once the glue cures, I will place the neck under a heat lamp, in this case, a 100 watt incadescent lightbulb, for 24 hours and tighten the clamp a 1/4 or less turn every couple of hours. Then I will turn the heat off and let the neck cool for 24 hours.
I will also be creating this in the DIY section to stop hijacking this thread.
09-24-2013 05:05 PM
I have been fairly busy working on a piece of computer code. Finally became fed up with chasing a particularly difficult bug and decided to spend some more time on this guitar.
I removed the clamp holding the neck to a fret leveling bar and began a neck set.
I began this by cutting off the sole remaining neck peg and cutting down the remaining broken pegs as close to each surface as I could with a hobby knife.
We can see that there is a fair amount of work that needs to be done in order for the neck to be seated properly on the body of the guitar. Seating the neck, or reseating the neck, basically involves inserting sandpaper between the neck and the body, placing the neck into a proper position, and pulling the sandpaper out. The process is roughly the same if you ar reseating a more expensive guitar that is dovetailed - you would have to insert the sandpaper into differing areas in order to set the neck and obtain as flush of a surface as is possible.
Setting the neck is a time consuming process because each time you remove the sandpaper, you have to remove the neck, resettle the sandpaper, and reposition the neck. After 45 minutes to an hour, i figured that I had the surfaces mated close enough.
I then drilled the remainer of the pegs out and cut new dowels to peg the neck. After cutting the dowels, I test fitted the neck to insure that it properly mated and seated. It did.
In a day or two I will glue the neck. When it sets and cures, I will reglue the tongue of the fretboard.
09-24-2013 10:31 PM
09-27-2013 05:09 PM
Well... Show and tell time again.
Clamping the neck on was going to be a small problem. Without a tennon, there is not an easy was to clamp the neck down, not to mention that this neck has to be clamped in two directions rather than a single direction.
Being a fan of old luthier books, I almost immediately thought of the old school method of tying the wood into place, Then it slapped me that tying with rope or string would not allow the applying of enough clamping pressure to keep the neck locked into place while the glue cures. Then another thought from the old luthier books - rubber band the sucker.
I have seen rubber band large enough to do the trick, but it was a long time ago. I did quickly look on line for large rubber band and did not quickly find any. Instead, I ran to the bike shop and bought a 29 inch inner tube, and after cutting out the valve stem with a hobby knife, I cut the tube in half with scissors. This made two large rubber bands.
Never mind the boss/supervisor; his name is "Pissy," and he is a Maine Coon.
The pegs were removed from the holes and Gorilla Glue was injected into the pegs holes with a syringe. Syringes cost about 39 cents each. Gorilla is roughly equivalent to Tight Bond II/III and is a resonated glue. Yellow carpenters or hide glue would have been a better choice on an adults guitar, but this one is for a young child. Children abuse instruments without even trying to; water, if spilled on the instrument would create problems loosening a hyde or yellow glue.
Glue then was liberally applied to both sides of the joint, and the neck was set into place on the pegs and pressed down by hand. The rubber band was then fastened around both sides of the neck and under the lower bout of the guitar.
After getting the band into place, the band was crossed over the heel of the neck to bring more clamping force onto the heel, and final adjustments (such as could be made because everything is tight) to the neck and the band were made.
Because the neck geometry was set back about 1/2 a degree, and because of the construction of the guitar, I will have to reglue the tongue of the neck seperately after the glue for the neck bond has cured in 24 hours.
After this a full setup and fret leveling.
I left the steel strings on the guitar for the time being because I want to use them as plumb lines during the setup and because they kept the two halves of the guitar together in one place.
10-16-2013 03:36 PM
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