Amps

[Mike LX-R]

Alright, so I picked up a can of control/contact cleaner and lubricant from Radioshack. I cleaned the tube sockets the way that it said in an old leaflet I have from Eurotubes (don't knock me ) by spraying the pins and working the tube in and out of the socket several times.

How do I correctly clean all the other necessary components? I'm gonna pull the chassis out and give it a go soon, just want to make sure I do it well.

Thanks

[Bucksstudent]

Sometimes you just have to replace them.

[Bucksstudent]

Sometimes you just have to replace them.

[Mike LX-R]

Originally Posted by Bucksstudent

Sometimes you just have to replace them.

ok well that's not the case so how's about you tell me how to clean them?

[Mike LX-R]

Originally Posted by Bucksstudent

Sometimes you just have to replace them.

ok well that's not the case so how's about you tell me how to clean them?

[guitarbilly74]

Originally Posted by Mike LX-R

by spraying the pins and working the tube in and out of the socket several times.

same thing for the jacks.. but you will use a plug instead of the tube pins... work it in and out of the jacks...

for pots, it's best to pull the chassis out and spray into the pot casing hole, then turn the pot back and forth real fast

[guitarbilly74]

Originally Posted by Mike LX-R

by spraying the pins and working the tube in and out of the socket several times.

same thing for the jacks.. but you will use a plug instead of the tube pins... work it in and out of the jacks...

for pots, it's best to pull the chassis out and spray into the pot casing hole, then turn the pot back and forth real fast

[Mike LX-R]

Originally Posted by guitarbilly74

same thing for the jacks.. but you will use a plug instead of the tube pins... work it in and out of the jacks...

for pots, it's best to pull the chassis out and spray into the pot casing hole, then turn the pot back and forth real fast

tomorrow night after work. this is good, something I should know how to do anyway. thanks!

[Mike LX-R]

Originally Posted by guitarbilly74

same thing for the jacks.. but you will use a plug instead of the tube pins... work it in and out of the jacks...

for pots, it's best to pull the chassis out and spray into the pot casing hole, then turn the pot back and forth real fast

tomorrow night after work. this is good, something I should know how to do anyway. thanks!

[HKSblade1]

For the jacks roll up a piece of super fine sandpaper or emery cloth. Start with about a 3"x4" square and roll it up. Put that in the jacks and spin it around clockwise. This will really remove any oxidation rust contaminants.

If you have the plastic Cliff or Rean type shorting jacks try this. First, get an ohm meter and check the continuity across each side of the jacks pins (side to side, not front to back) . With no phono plug inserted you should read a short or close to zero ohms across each set of pins (2 for mono jacks, 3 for stereo jacks). If you read 20 ohms of higher you need to burnish those contact points or replace the jack.

To repair these plastic style jacks:
Fold a small piece of emery paper or super fine sandpaper into a thin flat burnishing tool. Fold the paper flat just under the width of the jack shorting plug spacing (about 1/8"). Insert a phono jack or small thin screwdriver until you see the shorting lug lift. Insert the flattened sandpaper into that contact point. Pull the jack or screwdriver out which will clamp down on the sandpaper. Now slide the paper in and out. This is the best way to clean these type jacks without replacing them. When finished, check the resistance again (continuity) and look for the zero ohms or close to it reading across the shorting pins.

Since these PC mounted jacks often have stress fractures in the solder, be sure to check or simply resolder those pins on the board if needed. I usually just resolder them anyway to improve the integrity of that jacks connection.

Get some canned air or compressor and clean any debris from jacks, pots etc. Then spray your contact cleaner in the pots lubrication holes (small hole on the top of the pot casing) or from the underside of the terminals. Rock the controls quickly back and forth.

On some pots with smaller plastic shafts (some Marshall, Crate, Peavey) be careful the cleaner used does not damage plastic. Reason being is some cleaners can melt away where the internal wiper (variable part of the control) is press fitted into the pot's shaft. If that happens, you will be buying new pots.

[HKSblade1]

For the jacks roll up a piece of super fine sandpaper or emery cloth. Start with about a 3"x4" square and roll it up. Put that in the jacks and spin it around clockwise. This will really remove any oxidation rust contaminants.

If you have the plastic Cliff or Rean type shorting jacks try this. First, get an ohm meter and check the continuity across each side of the jacks pins (side to side, not front to back) . With no phono plug inserted you should read a short or close to zero ohms across each set of pins (2 for mono jacks, 3 for stereo jacks). If you read 20 ohms of higher you need to burnish those contact points or replace the jack.

To repair these plastic style jacks:
Fold a small piece of emery paper or super fine sandpaper into a thin flat burnishing tool. Fold the paper flat just under the width of the jack shorting plug spacing (about 1/8"). Insert a phono jack or small thin screwdriver until you see the shorting lug lift. Insert the flattened sandpaper into that contact point. Pull the jack or screwdriver out which will clamp down on the sandpaper. Now slide the paper in and out. This is the best way to clean these type jacks without replacing them. When finished, check the resistance again (continuity) and look for the zero ohms or close to it reading across the shorting pins.

Since these PC mounted jacks often have stress fractures in the solder, be sure to check or simply resolder those pins on the board if needed. I usually just resolder them anyway to improve the integrity of that jacks connection.

Get some canned air or compressor and clean any debris from jacks, pots etc. Then spray your contact cleaner in the pots lubrication holes (small hole on the top of the pot casing) or from the underside of the terminals. Rock the controls quickly back and forth.

On some pots with smaller plastic shafts (some Marshall, Crate, Peavey) be careful the cleaner used does not damage plastic. Reason being is some cleaners can melt away where the internal wiper (variable part of the control) is press fitted into the pot's shaft. If that happens, you will be buying new pots.

[fly135]

Are you having problems? I've found that amps with the pots and jacks mounted to the circuit board (most amps for several decades) have problems with cracked solder joints and need to be reflowed. It causes problems similar to dirty pots and jacks. I.E. random cutting out and volume fluctuations. Also hissing and popping in some cases.

[fly135]

Are you having problems? I've found that amps with the pots and jacks mounted to the circuit board (most amps for several decades) have problems with cracked solder joints and need to be reflowed. It causes problems similar to dirty pots and jacks. I.E. random cutting out and volume fluctuations. Also hissing and popping in some cases.

[Mike LX-R]

Originally Posted by HKSblade1

For the jacks roll up a piece of super fine sandpaper or emery cloth. Start with about a 3"x4" square and roll it up. Put that in the jacks and spin it around clockwise. This will really remove any oxidation rust contaminants.

If you have the plastic Cliff or Rean type shorting jacks try this. First, get an ohm meter and check the continuity across each side of the jacks pins (side to side, not front to back) . With no phono plug inserted you should read a short or close to zero ohms across each set of pins (2 for mono jacks, 3 for stereo jacks). If you read 20 ohms of higher you need to burnish those contact points or replace the jack.

To repair these plastic style jacks:
Fold a small piece of emery paper or super fine sandpaper into a thin flat burnishing tool. Fold the paper flat just under the width of the jack shorting plug spacing (about 1/8"). Insert a phono jack or small thin screwdriver until you see the shorting lug lift. Insert the flattened sandpaper into that contact point. Pull the jack or screwdriver out which will clamp down on the sandpaper. Now slide the paper in and out. This is the best way to clean these type jacks without replacing them. When finished, check the resistance again (continuity) and look for the zero ohms or close to it reading across the shorting pins.

Since these PC mounted jacks often have stress fractures in the solder, be sure to check or simply resolder those pins on the board if needed. I usually just resolder them anyway to improve the integrity of that jacks connection.

Get some canned air or compressor and clean any debris from jacks, pots etc. Then spray your contact cleaner in the pots lubrication holes (small hole on the top of the pot casing) or from the underside of the terminals. Rock the controls quickly back and forth.

On some pots with smaller plastic shafts (some Marshall, Crate, Peavey) be careful the cleaner used does not damage plastic. Reason being is some cleaners can melt away where the internal wiper (variable part of the control) is press fitted into the pot's shaft. If that happens, you will be buying new pots.

Originally Posted by fly135

Are you having problems? I've found that amps with the pots and jacks mounted to the circuit board (most amps for several decades) have problems with cracked solder joints and need to be reflowed. It causes problems similar to dirty pots and jacks. I.E. random cutting out and volume fluctuations. Also hissing and popping in some cases.

duly noted

[Mike LX-R]

Originally Posted by HKSblade1

For the jacks roll up a piece of super fine sandpaper or emery cloth. Start with about a 3"x4" square and roll it up. Put that in the jacks and spin it around clockwise. This will really remove any oxidation rust contaminants.

If you have the plastic Cliff or Rean type shorting jacks try this. First, get an ohm meter and check the continuity across each side of the jacks pins (side to side, not front to back) . With no phono plug inserted you should read a short or close to zero ohms across each set of pins (2 for mono jacks, 3 for stereo jacks). If you read 20 ohms of higher you need to burnish those contact points or replace the jack.

To repair these plastic style jacks:
Fold a small piece of emery paper or super fine sandpaper into a thin flat burnishing tool. Fold the paper flat just under the width of the jack shorting plug spacing (about 1/8"). Insert a phono jack or small thin screwdriver until you see the shorting lug lift. Insert the flattened sandpaper into that contact point. Pull the jack or screwdriver out which will clamp down on the sandpaper. Now slide the paper in and out. This is the best way to clean these type jacks without replacing them. When finished, check the resistance again (continuity) and look for the zero ohms or close to it reading across the shorting pins.

Since these PC mounted jacks often have stress fractures in the solder, be sure to check or simply resolder those pins on the board if needed. I usually just resolder them anyway to improve the integrity of that jacks connection.

Get some canned air or compressor and clean any debris from jacks, pots etc. Then spray your contact cleaner in the pots lubrication holes (small hole on the top of the pot casing) or from the underside of the terminals. Rock the controls quickly back and forth.

On some pots with smaller plastic shafts (some Marshall, Crate, Peavey) be careful the cleaner used does not damage plastic. Reason being is some cleaners can melt away where the internal wiper (variable part of the control) is press fitted into the pot's shaft. If that happens, you will be buying new pots.

Originally Posted by fly135

Are you having problems? I've found that amps with the pots and jacks mounted to the circuit board (most amps for several decades) have problems with cracked solder joints and need to be reflowed. It causes problems similar to dirty pots and jacks. I.E. random cutting out and volume fluctuations. Also hissing and popping in some cases.

duly noted

[timrocker]

Caution: Stored voltages in amps. Stay away from the capacitors, was the advice I was given.

[timrocker]

Caution: Stored voltages in amps. Stay away from the capacitors, was the advice I was given.

[Mike LX-R]

Originally Posted by timrocker

Caution: Stored voltages in amps. Stay away from the capacitors, was the advice I was given.

yup. I've been shocked (very mildly) by accidentally pushing my finger down and across a power tube socket (must have bridged the circuit) when the amp was unplugged.

[Mike LX-R]

Originally Posted by timrocker

Caution: Stored voltages in amps. Stay away from the capacitors, was the advice I was given.

yup. I've been shocked (very mildly) by accidentally pushing my finger down and across a power tube socket (must have bridged the circuit) when the amp was unplugged.

[-=Pennywise=-]

if you have an effects loop, won't hurt to clean those jacks out too, even if you don't use them, clean them. I've heard of volume drops occuring because the contacts being dirty in some effects loops on amps.