Acoustic Guitars

[racoustic]

So, lately I see that my acoustic guitar goes a bit off tune when I use capo. Here is what I mean - I tune by guitar (say standard tuning) and when i put a capo on 2, the open base string shows slightly sharp G note, instead of bein  exact G.

So, each time, I put the capo on a bar, i have to re-tune slghlty so it doesn't sound off.

I hadn't noticed the issue before and I have had the guitar for a while.

Does anyone know what the problem is? And the solution?

Thanks!

[lz4005]

The capo is clamping down too hard. Loosen the spring tension.
Also: bass string.

[GW348]

Thats an ago old problem with most capos. I find I can usually get by simply adjusting the low E.

Or you can buy an elliot or paige capo for big bucks. They are suppose to not do this.

[FretFiend.]

What capo are you using?

I'm betting it's one that just clamps on with spring pressur. Buy a real adjustable capo... one you can turn a screw on to adjust the pressure. My preference is a Planet Waves NS or a Shubb.

[Howie22]

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FretFiend. wrote:

 My preference is a Planet Waves NS or a Shubb.

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Yeah, I liked those for a long time, then went with the Planet Waves NS Dual Action, which I liked better.

A while back, at the suggestion of TAH, I switched to a Paige Clik. I like it SO much better than the others. I actually don't even use the "clik" function, but it's truly superior to anything else I've tried.

[Opa John]

Kyser capos seem to cause this more so than some other brands of capos on the market. Although, I have a Kyser that I've been using for about five years now that works fine for me. Worn out strings can also be part of the problem. Improperly cut nut slots can also cause it, but if that was the problem, you'd notice it with or without the capo.

If you're usiing a Kyser, look at the pad that goes up against the neck of the guitar. It should be oriented so that the thinner part is against the neck. This reduces the tension applied by the spring on the capo. I've tried mine both ways and it does make a difference.

Actually, if you get right down to the nitty-gritty.....I think ALL capos can cause this to happen depending on the guitar, the age of the strings, and how careful you are when you put the capo on the guitar. Especially noticeable on the lower bass strings. I always try to put my capo on so that it's very close to the next higher fret on the bass side and about 3/16" behind the fret on the treble side. This gives my index finger a little more room and I also have noticed that a lot of the pros put theirs on with the same sort of slant to it. Seems to work.

[EdBega]

Why wouldn't a string go slightly sharp when fretted?

I guess the lower the action the less affect that might have on it ...

[racoustic]

Thanks! I didn't realize the brand of capo would cause this. Interestingly, I had been using a Shubb (love it!) until last week when my friend's dog ate the rubber on the capo (I know! lol!) so am using some cheap capo meanwhile. I guess that is causing the issue then.

Now, I ordered a Kyser just to check it out (I loved the Shubb but people also seemed to love the Kyser to wanted to try it once). I hope Kyser doesn't cause the same problem (I see some responses that it may) so keeping my fingers crossed. 

I really did love the Shubb and never had the tuning issue with it. Weird. Will update everyone if I continue to have the same issue after putting on the Kyser capo.

Thanks all. Good thing, there is (most likely) nothign wrong with the guitar itself

[FretFiend.]

Email Shubb. They'll send you replacement rubber for that dog-chewed one.

[racoustic]

Wow! Thanks so much. I didn't even think about it. I was able to place an order on shubb.com for the replacement sleeve and it only cost $1.00 with free shipping. That is phenomenal. I don't think I will ever move away from Shubb in my life. They just earned a loyal customer

[lz4005]

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EdBega wrote:

Why wouldn't a string go slightly sharp when fretted?

I guess the lower the action the less affect that might have on it ...

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A properly set up guitar shouldn't be noticeably sharp or flat anywhere on the neck. That's the point of intonating a guitar. 

[kwakatak]

Take care not to pull the strings to one side when installing any capo - even a Shubb. Essentially an improperly installed capo bends the strings. What I do is to make complete contact with the rubber on the capo and all 6 strings with the capo still loose. Then when I tighten the capo I make sure that the pressure is perpendicular to the fretboard. It's not 100% but I just tweak the tuning going from the high E to the low E strings.

[larry50]

I think some guitars are just prone to it.   I had a Martin D-35 whose basic intonation was spot on (meaning the bridge had been precisely and correctly located), but it went sharp when capoed.  Didn't matter whether it was a Shubb or a Keyser.  You could never just capo up and play.  It was capo up, retune and play.  Who the heck knows what was going on. 

I still think Shubbs are the best.  Simple, relatively precise adjustment, low profile.  With the Keyer, I feel like I'm playing with the North Tower of the Golden Gate Bridge on the neck.  Too much metal. 

[DeepEnd]

Couple of things: First, FretFiend is correct; there are replacements available for the rubber part. Even if Shubb won't send you one, they're on eBay for around $6.00 shipped. Second, excessive capo tension will indeed cause the strings to go sharp, although in my experience it tends to be across the board. Third, the low E string tends to need more compensation than the other strings and usually doesn't have enough. GW348's suggestion of a Paige capo is a decent one but they don't cost "big bucks." Typically they run $20 or less depending on where you buy.

[jamesp]

What's the consensus w/r/t clamping in the middle of the frets as opposed to right up behind the zero? .

[larry50]

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jamesp wrote:
What's the consensus w/r/t clamping in the middle of the frets as opposed to right up behind the zero? .

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I was taught to capo as close to the fret as possible.

[garthman]

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EdBega wrote:

Why wouldn't a string go slightly sharp when fretted?

I guess the lower the action the less affect that might have on it ...

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A string usually does go slightly sharp when it's fretted. And that is why capos sometimes cause intonation problems - and especially on the bass strings (since more force is exerted on the bass strings due to their greater thickness).

As has been said, the problem is improved if the pressure exerted by the capo is not too great. Hence, as also mentioned, spring-loaded capos are the worst offenders.  In my experience, Shubb capos are best.

And, Jamesp, I put mine right in the middle of the space between the frets.

[Graeca]

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jamesp wrote:
What's the consensus w/r/t clamping in the middle of the frets as opposed to right up behind the zero? .

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Intonation issues will ensue

[jamesp]

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larry50 wrote:

I was taught to capo as close to the fret as possible.

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Me too. My impression is that there's less retuning needed that way. Even then, sometimes it's worth retuning just to have a little more room to move.