03-02-2013 01:21 PM
For several years now I have been wanting a small bodied all mahogany guitar and I’m getting close to ready to start building it. There are several options and I would appreciate input on good (or bad) points on any of them. I have plans for both a 1940 Gibson L-00 and a generic 00, as well as the 000 that is my daily player. I don’t necessarily want to build a clone of any particular guitar, but the small bodied Martins and Gibsons of the ‘30’s would be my guide. I have played several prewar 0 and 00-17’s, one small Gibson from that period (think it was a Nick Lucas), current 00 and 000-15’s, and a new SGCG “00-1929” (which was a stunning guitar, by the way). I am prepared to change some design parameters (scale length, frets clear, neck profile) if there is a good reason – I’m certainly not locked into following the plans to the letter. I also know that over the years these guitars (particularly the L-00) changed dramatically – I’ve seen them in 12, 13 and 14 fret, for example.
OK, here are the major options
1 – Long scale 000 like my spruce/rosewood guitar. Twelve frets, basically an 000-28 but long scale. I love this guitar and think it would be very interesting in all mahogany, but would there be enough difference? One big advantage is that I have both the mold and bending form for my Fox bender. One advantage for the forum is that I could post clips and you could hear the difference that only tone woods make (same bracing, size, scale, etc)
2 – Gibosn L-00 in all mahogany. The Gibbie is short scale, my plans are for a 14 fretter (but that could be changed). It has 1/4 inch non scalloped braces. The body is a hair deeper than (3) and Nick Lucas models were even deeper. Advantage – these are the iconic blues boxes from the 30’s, disadvantage – I don’t personally have much experience with them.
3 – Martin 00 in all mahogany (that would be -17 or -15). My plans for this one are also short scale, 14 frets clear. Unlike the Gibson, it is 5/16 scalloped braces. Here is the SCGC
4 – I could do a ladder braced one like my Stella 12 string clone, but I think if I ever do that it will be spruce on top.
Options – Both the L-00 and 00-17 are paddle heads, but I’m partial to slots. Building a slothead is a lot more work but adds some mojo. Second option is scale length – by going to a longer scale the bridge is moved down into the lower bout (SCGC built a 13 fret long scale and says it’s a great guitar). I tune down a lot and like a longer scale – obviously I would have to move braces around a bit.
There are some cosmetic things – I would probably use a rope rosette like my Stella and Weissies, a pyramid bridge, maybe a sunburst or shade top.
So, if you’ve played one or own one or lusted after one – tell me about it. I don’t think any of the above would be a bad guitar – but I need to choose something.
03-02-2013 02:09 PM
03-02-2013 05:31 PM
My choice # 1 but not slotted, with a nice fat neck ...
If you don't like it let me know ...
03-02-2013 06:54 PM
First off, small body mahogany is an excellent choice. I like your taste.
I'm gonna say the Martin style. I played an older one (i was told it was probably a 000-18), and absolutely loved it. It inspired me to get a mahogany guitar. I went with a Taylor GS Mini because of the cost, but it's a brilliant guitar.
But yeah, those style Martins are insanley good, IMO.
03-03-2013 01:49 AM
03-03-2013 08:40 AM
03-03-2013 09:11 AM
#2...

03-03-2013 09:21 AM
Ditto #2
03-03-2013 11:31 AM
03-03-2013 02:00 PM
Here's another vote for the Gibson 00 shape. I'd love to play some bluesy tunes on one.

03-03-2013 09:23 PM
I say go with the first one, but that's just me. I'm not a fan of smaller bodies. They tend to sound "boxy" to my ear.
BTW, I'm curious: are mahogany tops quartersawn? If not do they need to be pore filled? From working with mahogany on my first build I find that it can be quite light in comparison to walnut, maple or rosewood but then again coat it with Z-poxy to fill the pores and I wonder what it would do to the resonant qualities?
03-04-2013 12:07 AM
03-04-2013 08:20 AM
kwakatak wrote:BTW, I'm curious: are mahogany tops quartersawn? If not do they need to be pore filled? From working with mahogany on my first build I find that it can be quite light in comparison to walnut, maple or rosewood but then again coat it with Z-poxy to fill the pores and I wonder what it would do to the resonant qualities?
My experience with mahogany is that it does need to be pore filed. I've mostly used StewMac's paste filler - I've only used Zpoxy on koa. Haven't thought that far ahead - there are a lot of option for finish.
03-07-2013 10:29 PM
03-08-2013 10:27 AM
Have you come to a decision yet? I still stand by #1. I'd like to see how it compares against its EIR/sitka "twin."
03-11-2013 09:25 AM
kwakatak wrote:Have you come to a decision yet? I still stand by #1. I'd like to see how it compares against its EIR/sitka "twin."
I appreciate all the good suggestions - both at this forum and others (I posted this four different places - here, MV, a blues forum and a lutherie forum). I'm pretty sure it will be based on the L-00 plans, but 12 fret slot head for sure. Got some good advice on bracing and top thickness for mahogany at OLF - the L-00 is a pretty popular design over there.
I won't be starting it for a while, but I might go ahead and make the mold and bending jig. I'm going on a fairly long trip in april and think I'll wait until I get back before making any sawdust.
There'll be a build thread, don't worry.
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