drasp

Originally Posted by Sam24 I'm so sorry, i didn't know you do this for money!! You gave me a big help by trying to' help me , so i don't wanna stress you again, i'll try to' follow the trace goobg under that IC and see where it should be...thanks again! No worries. I love helping folks out, but I also love to see them learning, which is why I wanted to help you find your own answer. ;D

Follow the trace leading from the lifted pad with your eyes - see where it vanishes under that IC? With a multimeter, you could probe the surrounding traces for continuity & figure out where it should go. . . Again, I'm not trying to be difficult, but I also have to consider that lots of folks pay for my DIY kits to get my help with things like this.

I don't have a schematic, but try a combination of shining a flashlight through the PCB & testing for continuity w/ a multimeter.

Originally Posted by Sam24 i tryed and it don't sound ond the second...you say that is for the right out the r37? Correct - I was trying to give you that piece of info w/o just saying it. Sorry if the lines of communication were crossed! R36 sets the gain/output level for the R channel & R37 for the L. If it matters to you, trace past where you damaged the board & connect your new resistor there - may be possible to save the R channel. Or not.

You may be missing my point. I was suggesting you run it with stereo outs. Simply add a second output and see if signal is present on both sides. . .

Re-read the instructions.

Um,. . .not sure I follow. Hook up a cable to the 2nd output & see if there is signal?

Does it still work in stereo. . .?

I'll speak up on this one. LOVE my CIJ - its a '96 & is alder w/ the shielding plates (which were later left off CIJ Jags/Jazzys). My understanding was that at least the 3TS guitars were all Alder. Bought mine for ~$400 beat-as-heck. Put a set of Novaks in recently after trying a Duncan in the bridge. Actually didn't mind the CIJ parts, but do prefer the Novaks. HATE HATE HATE the idea of a TOM in a Jag (I know, I know, I sound like grandpa lame-o), same goes for the shorter break over the bridge pieces. For me, thats a big part of what is so great on a Jag - that said it DOES require a bit more from the owner to understand & setup the parts to fit your playing. . . Anyhow, I've personally thought several times on selling mine to get a thin skin or AVRI, but mine is old & beat & I really like my guitars that way, so I can't stomach loosing it for an 'upgrade' that I'd have to play for 10yrs before it felt right. If I were looking at brand new CIJ vs. AVRI, I'd probably go for the US guitar, if that makes any sense at all.

Really fine Telecaster. Perfect example of what Fender Japan has been doing so right all these years! Neck isn't too thick, isn't too thin. Had a Fralin in the bridge when I got it, I rewired it (all cloth wire, switchcraft/CTS/Electro, etc.) for 4-way switching. Replaced the stock saddles with Callaham compensated brass saddles. Currently set up for 11s. Excellent condition - play wear, but has no damage. Anyone who knows me can vouch that this has been my '#1' for the last ~3yrs. Looking for $900 shipped via FedEx Ground.

Update: Price Drop! 2000 G&L ASAT Special - - - Guitar is in great shape, but has been played (no signs of abuse, frets are still near-perfect, but its not a case queen). Currently set up with .11s & has ZERO issues. I recently replaced the output jack with a fresh one (correct part, even ordered it from G&L) b/c the tension was low on the old one & I use a heavy cable. REALLY a wonderful player. Neck is perfect - great example of what folks love in a G&L! Includes original case. Drop me a PM for more pix, details, etc. These are $1,300 new & have a wait list - I'm looking for $750 + S&H, would LOVE to sell TODAY!!!

Originally Posted by Gantz Does anybody know what the value of R31 is?...My soldering tip took it off by accident! Sorry I hadn't gotten back to you yet - sometimes slow to respond to PMs. R31 (next to switch 'C') should be 4k. Its a 1% part marked 4021 (4.02k). FYI - if you want more info on replacing surface mount parts, you can read THIS.

Sorry nobody had replied to your post! I was linking someone to this thread as a reference & just saw. You don't replace them, just remove them. Most pedals won't have them in the first place, just check to see if they're present on your board. If they are, you're in for a nice treat as the bypass is improved w/o them.

Another shot of the original SMT resistors: And the 1/4W parts (before cleaning PCB, whoops): Then, I like to slip another piece of heat shrink over the top & bend them gently over. . . For those looking to get super-fancy, you can get a warm air reworking station on Amazon for

Originally Posted by emokiller89 I like to do step 3 but i dont know how much watts the resistors need to have? What resistors can i use? Metall or the other ones? please help You'd probably want to use 1% metal film 1/4W parts. Be sure before you go soldering to SMT pads that you're comfortable with your iron & technique. Of all the mods in the DIY kit I sell, this is the only one folks have had trouble with. If you can, find a used/dead PC motherboard or something similar to practice with - EASY once you've got 'the touch', but deadly (to the PCB) if you don't.