Sam24

Originally Posted by jimosity I can help, but you'd have to send it to me. Thanks but i would like to repair by myself

Originally Posted by drasp Follow the trace leading from the lifted pad with your eyes - see where it vanishes under that IC? With a multimeter, you could probe the surrounding traces for continuity & figure out where it should go. . . Again, I'm not trying to be difficult, but I also have to consider that lots of folks pay for my DIY kits to get my help with things like this. I'm so sorry, i didn't know you do this for money!! You gave me a big help by trying to' help me , so i don't wanna stress you again, i'll try to' follow the trace goobg under that IC and see where it should be...thanks again!

Originally Posted by Sam24 here the pic Anybody can help me?

here the pic

Originally Posted by Sam24 ............ sorry for the ignorance can you please tel me how to do it? really, i can't see it becouse it's a little bit white and i don't understand where is the other connection!!

Originally Posted by drasp I don't have a schematic, but try a combination of shining a flashlight through the PCB & testing for continuity w/ a multimeter. ............ sorry for the ignorance can you please tel me how to do it?

Originally Posted by drasp Correct - I was trying to give you that piece of info w/o just saying it. Sorry if the lines of communication were crossed! R36 sets the gain/output level for the R channel & R37 for the L. If it matters to you, trace past where you damaged the board & connect your new resistor there - may be possible to save the R channel. Or not. you suggest to follow the connections and solder the resistor there?...i tried but i can't see it, or better i can do for the parto going to the left side (if you are locking at the stompbox) but i cant for the other...any suggestion for the schematics??

Originally Posted by drasp You may be missing my point. I was suggesting you run it with stereo outs. Simply add a second output and see if signal is present on both sides. . . and do you know how to make the double preset mod by myself please?

Originally Posted by drasp You may be missing my point. I was suggesting you run it with stereo outs. Simply add a second output and see if signal is present on both sides. . . i tryed and it don't sound ond the second...you say that is for the right out the r37?

Originally Posted by drasp Re-read the instructions. hi again, this is what Keeley replyed to me: my question "hello, i have a problem and i hope you can help me. i have done the mod on a line 6 dl4, for the volume drop, and i have changed the R36 resistor with a 22k, but i have broken the R37 place and i can't anymore solder the new 22k here too! but my dl4 works anyway!!! can i know why?!?!? what the R37 is for??? thanks! best regards Simone" answere "Howdy sir! R37 is a 36K resistor, it may work without it, it is probably designed to set a bias voltage or maybe a pull-up resistor, haven

Originally Posted by drasp Re-read the instructions. I think so! ...by the way can you confirm that the auto volume mod has the volume low???

Originally Posted by drasp Does it still work in stereo. . .? I tried with the input right but doesn t work becouse it turn on when you put the jack into left input..

Originally Posted by drasp Does it still work in stereo. . .? That is the question!!! How can i chek it?!

i know, but like you answere me, anyone else can do that so i hope someone that know why will answere me

hi everybody...i wanted to do the mod for the volume drop...so i changed the r36 with a 22k and everything went right, then i did the same with the r37 but unforunally i made a s...t and now i have a dl4 WHITOUT the r37 resistor....BUT IT WORKS! can i know what the r37 is for???? why my dl4 still works!?!?!?! :