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katopp

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About katopp

  • Birthday 10/21/1964

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    Republic of Ireland

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  1. There should be a paper label inside the guitar. This is where you find the serial, too. Some Ovations also have the serial on the neck block, but this is rare. By looking at the pictures - don't you have better pics?? - it looks like a MiC Ovation Celebrity CC24 to me. Nice guitar, laminated top, basic pickup, half-decent preamp. A good workhorse of a robust gigging guitar, only hampered by the very narrow neck. Price is less than $500 new. Hoe you haven't paid more than $300 for it....
  2. When I was passing through the loan shops of the a bit ruff side of town, I actually saw a Zager. According to the paper glued to the back it was a 80 series. So I faked serious interest and tried it out. Mind you, this is the first time I had the chance to test one for a bit longer. First, it is not a bad guitar, this. Comparable to the better MiC guitars out there, I would say from materials and construction on par with the Thoman own brand Harley Benton that sells for $350ísh. So on par with Yamaha FG, I would say. It was neat and tidy, so much is true.The neck was about straight with almost no relief at all and the action was about average. I thought, the action would have been lower - but not with this one. What was lower was the height of the frets. It was easy to play, I give it that. The frets were so low, I could for the life of me not pull it sharp by pressing harder on the strings. Beginner friendly, I would say. Strings were light, light lighter. My guess would be 0.010, maybe even 0.009 and t 0.048, tops 0.050 for the low E. Those light strings need more room, they tend to vibrate more than fatter strings and that is possibly the reason for the higher action. With taller frets and fatter strings, a bit more relief, it would have been a good guitar, comparable with a Yamaha FG-series. But the catch is the price tag. Denny Zagers Magification adds so much to the price, it is no relation to what you get. If I would buy a really good Yamaha for what Zager calls up for, I would have a hugely better guitar. .
  3. are you softening your mood for the holiday season? no vitriol? not calling out names and accusations worthy of conspirancy theories, fret? good for you! keep up the good work....
  4. I'm not so impressed by the Asian Rodriguez. The Spanish M.Rodriguez&Hijos are ok'ish. But still not what I would call "impressive", I have a M.Rodriguez&Hijos Caballero C10 BK and it needed some finishing work to make it function. If you're going European, I would suggest a Hanika 50 AF, Hofner HF15, Hofner HF16 or Hofner HZ125. Yamaha CG-Series are quite popular, too. If you want to, you can go used. Most classicals do not have the issues that older steelstring almost inevitably get. Also prices tend to fall quickly for used classicals. Unless it's a famous, very famous guitar, used prices tend to be rock bottom. At least here on my side of the pond...
  5. Pineapple, I have a Sigma lam b/s and two Martins, a D35 and a D40. Not the worst guitars Martin ever made. The Sigma holds it's own against the Martins in any context other than recording with a sensitive mic. In a band context, in a session context and even in an acoustic duo the differences between the Sigma and the Martins are indescernible. Absolutely gigworthy and given the price definitively a steal. At least mine. I take it to my electric/acoustic gigs and it works and sounds at least as good as my friend's Martin D16RGTCE. But it was only a third of the Martin's pricetag.
  6. FretFiend. wrote: That Sigma logo is obviously intended to look like the Martin logo. Maybe just a hair on the legal side of lawsuit territory. Kind like the old "lawsuit" Takamines from the seventies. They changed the Logo. The new Logo looks fugly and takes away a lot of the charme of the Sigma brand.
  7. hey guys, thanks for the feedback! now to answer a few questions: 1) I am not new to the world of acoustic, I've always been an acoustic and electric player. 2) My main acoustic guitars are a 1996 Taylor 815c and a 1990s Alvarez DY-52. IN BOTH CASES I feel like the bass notes are too dull or not crisp enough. This is why I was questioning whether or not I should just get a nut replacement, or if that would even change anything. I use size .13 strings on them, of any particular brand, so there is certainly room for experimentation there, and I would love to hear what has worked for you guys. thanks again!! Nut work only benefits open strings, which in most cases means it benefits ... ummm ... none at all. Bridge/saddle work is a starter, but IMHO anything beyond TuSQ doesn't offer that much more. TuSQ is nice to work and fairly consistent in quality. Bone might give you 5% over TuSQ, but the consistency issues and the pain (read: smell) to work with ain't worth it. Dunno about ivory, but I doubt it's worth the moral, financial, CITES ... issues that come with it. Strings are a starter, but playing/technique is even more. Try to find a proper technique, first. Bass response depends hugegy on where, how and with what you attack the string. I have bought a Baritone and boy does it give you a lesson in attack. If you attack it right, the bass is a killer, if you 1/2 inch off, it's a mudpit. Same applies to picks. Never underestimate the power of the right pick. Tenacious D weren't too far out, here. Really.
  8. Technique? De toanz are in da fingaz!
  9. Koa is a great tonewood. Soundwise it is between Hog and Rosewood, the plainer the more like Rosewood, at least in my experience Highly figured Koa is often used more because of the looks, than b es cause of the sound. The figure means a lot of open ends and a less stable piece of wood, so you have to make it thicker and brace it heavier.
  10. Tanglewoods are usually well built and not too shabby. Think of Yamaha-like quality.
  11. I'm in a trollin' mood today. Playin' one of Binh's guitars in Arizona is kinda like disarming land mines. Ya never know what will happen. I beg to differ. Playing should be no issue. All that needs to be done is a sponge/baggie humidifier in the case and put it into the case when not playing. But, let's be honest, that should be general best practice for any custom-build guitar, because those customs are indeed not as overbuilt as most factory guitars.
  12. no need to, I dealt with this in the referred-to other tread, where I EXPLICITLY WARNED THE OP that humidity control is needed. But then, the OP is in Brisbane, I do believe he needs a DEhumidifier more than an humidifier...
  13. Ok, Can do some reviews. BUT it will take me a few days. Currently I'm on the job hunt again. My manager is being called back to the mothership in TX, my manager's manager explicitly told the two silverbacks (my best buddy in the company and myself) that we were not even worth his time for an interview by hiring a 33 old dimwit from outside with no knowledge of the industry, no knowledge about the products, no knowledge about operations and no reputation and respect on the shop floor or in our team. This insult was then paired by the opening that almost all of the investments for CEUR are now centralized in Amsterdam, which leaves us here on Craggy Island high and dry. I expect the ops here to be wound down and finished by the end of the year - others are more optimistic - but I don't want to be the leftover one, who then has to switch off the lights. So, I'm currently interviewing and com next manager meeting there will be some hard questions to be answered and actions to be taken the same day - and better to my satisfaction - or my notice will be handed in.
  14. See the other thread. You should've opened a new thread anyway. Mods, can we close this one here? There is nothing more to add,really.....
  15. Only post in threads older than 5 years.
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