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Need help with my Alvarez system 600t preamp


jmantx65

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Hello, this is my first post, and I'd like to say I'm glad to be a part of this forum.

I hope that I don't annoy you too much by posting a problem solving question on my first post, but I'm having trouble with my Alvarez system 600t preamp.

I recently bought an Alvarez FF60, which I enjoy very much, but when I plug it into my Peavey 212 Amp, I can only get sound from the top and bottom strings.

I know my amp is working well, because it works fine with my Strat. I have read the manual that comes with the guitar, and made several adjustments to the preamp, but nothing seems to work

I have pulled the preamp from the guitar and checked all connections, installed a fresh battery, and tried both channels on my amp. I have now reached the end of my working knowledge of what to do next. Before loading it up and taking it in to the guitar shop, I thought I would run it by you guys to see if anyone has any suggestions.

Thank you in advance for your responses, and play on brothers!

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Did you take a look at the bottom of your saddle, and the slot it fits into? Could be all or most of pressure is going down through the ends rather than evenly across the 6 strings. Start with the easy stuff... maybe gently tap with blunted toothpick along various points of piezo pickup in the slot? I'm no tech genius (or any kind, for that matter), but I'd try those first

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I agree that this sounds like an under saddle transducer pickup that's not making good contact with the bridge saddle in the middle. Usually in my experience caused by a saddle too thick.

 

The first test is whether the bridge saddle falls out easily if you take the strings off and flip the guitar over. If it doesn't, the saddle is probably binding in places and not able to get the string energy down to the pickup.

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I will echo what Emory and Grant have said - I have run into several guitars with UST's have have been very unbalanced between strings. The bottom of the saddle slot must be perfectly level (which is darn hard to do), if the saddle has been sanded to lower it again, it must be perfectly flat on the bottom. If someone has put a shim in the slot (either above or below the transducer) that can really affect the balance. I have heard of people using a very small piece of modeling clay to better seat the transducer in the slot - I haven't tried it so do that at your own risk.

 

If the transducer itself has been damaged that too can cause the kind of problem you describe. Try tapping gently on the saddle at various locations - is it completely dead in the center or just lower volume? Another possible problem might be the break angle of the strings over the saddle - the outside strings might be applying more pressure.

 

Those are just suggestions - its really hard to diagnose without actually seeing the guitar.

 

And, before I forget my manners, welcome to HCAG.

 

 

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One other thing to check - is the bridge coming unglued from the top? Some Alvarez's have kind of a funky shaped bridge and my notes show that I have reglued one (I do repairs for a local shop). Try sliding a piece of paper between the bridge and top, if it goes under then have a good tech look at removing and regluing it for you.

 

Also, there are some saddles that are kind of scalloped on the bottom - the idea is that there is more pressure on the UST right under each string. If you have that kind lay a small straight edge across the bottom and make sure it is perfectly flat (the bottom of any saddle contacting a UST should be flat).

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First, to the OP, Welcome to the Forum.

 

. . . I have heard of people using a very small piece of modeling clay to better seat the transducer in the slot - I haven't tried it so do that at your own risk. . . .

 

. . . Another possible problem might be the break angle of the strings over the saddle - the outside strings might be applying more pressure. . . .

The clay shim trick was one the late Terry Allan Hall recommended, except it called for self drying Spanish clay rather than modelling clay. I haven't it either but I've heard good things. My own guitar sounds good to me without it, partly due to the design of my Shadow UST.

The FF60 is a thinline nylon string like this:

fetch?filedataid=125798

It seems to me the break angle is unlikely to be an issue for just some strings because the saddle should be straight rather than curved. My gut is telling me you, Emory and Grant are correct about the saddle not making proper contact with the bottom of the saddle. If I had to guess I'd say someone lowered the saddle at some point and either didn't get the bottom flat or got some debris in the slot.

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When I searched I got this. Notice the funky bridge shape, not that its a problem or anything. Might be nice if the OP clarified if his guitar looks like your picture or mine. And didn't we have someone a while back with a thin line like your picture who wanted to change the electronics completely?

 

blcyonozjuiarfc9zwru.jpg

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In regard to the clay shim trick, I went down that track and it made a really noticeable improvement to the 4 or 5 guitars I did it to. My package of clay is now a brick, unfortunately. I'd always use an internal transducer now, so not really applicable directly to me anymore.

In case you're curious the clay is self-hardening clay from Amaco.

https://www.amaco.com/products/clay-mexican-x-119-5?ref=2&taxon_id=425

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I just roll it thin, between 2 pieces of waxed paper, press the saddle gently into it to make an impression, then cut it slightly smaller. Remove the paper and lay the clay in the bridge slot. Then put the saddle back in and tune it up.

 

You'll probably have to lower the saddle to do this due to the thickness of the clay, but I'd wait a day or two to let the clay harden. It comes out easily without a permanent mess, so not much risk.

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When I searched I got this. Notice the funky bridge shape' date=' not that its a problem or anything. Might be nice if the OP clarified if his guitar looks like your picture or mine. And didn't we have someone a while back with a thin line like your picture who wanted to change the electronics completely? . . .[/quote']

I did a basic image search and six of the first ten images looked like mine. I went with majority. I did find what is claimed to be a FF60 at a Music Go Round in Boston that looks like yours:

fetch?filedataid=125819

The funky bridge on current Alvarez guitars apes the two piece bridge used on Yairis. There's one piece for the saddle and a separate piece for the pins:

fetch?filedataid=125820

Maybe the OP will return and clarify which he has.

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