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Considering on selling a less than mint guitar


kwakatak

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After 5 years and adding a JJB 330 I've decided that my Martin D-16GT and I are not soul mates and that I need to find a way to replace it with a used MMV. That being said, the guitar has taken some bumps and even an el kabong so I can't put it on the market without divulging any damage in order to keep my conscience and reputation as a seller clear.

 

 

 

The issue then is, what would be a fair price? I've seen "mint" 16s go for as much as $900 and as low as $500. That was when I was first purchased it 5 years ago. The price has gone up about $150 since then and a search of recent sales of used D-16GTs of similar ages as mine dictate a price range of $600-$900. I paid $950 and just put a $50 pickup in it but I get the feeling that I am going to take a big hit on my asking price because of all the nicks and dings and even a couple of cracks. How much though?

 

 

 

Also, if it's at all possible I would like to remove the JJB but I mounted it with gelatinous super glue. Can it be done without damaging the pickup or bridge plate though?

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All I can tell you is my own experience. I've sold about 10 guitars in the last couple of years, and I took serious hits on most of them. It is a buyers' market. In one instance, I lost about 60% off a Les Paul that I hated (couldn't get the action low without buzzing, even after a re-fret job). Chinese guitars, on avg., took the biggest hits. When I sold my D-15, I got €650 for it, with a couple of dings where the binding would be if it had had any. I paid €880 for it new, and I think that was the best return on my sales that I got. It certainly opened my eyes about collecting guitars for the sake of collecting guitars, and keeping up with the Jones @ Harmony Central.

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Looks like the list price for a new D-16GT is $1650 street price for a new one is 1250. I always figure that a perfect used guitar is about 50 percent of list (that is what a store pays for inventory) - $825. From that point I deduct first for issues that affect playability - setup, neck angle, frets, bridge, etc - I know what it costs to fix them (Bryan Kimsey has a good repair price list). I'll take half to all of that off 'cause I know its got to be done to make a player. Obviously I can do the work myself, but I use the going rate for negotiation.

 

After that comes the cosmetics - a rough looking guitar may not be all that desirable but there probably is nothing wrong and I really don't expect a well used guitar to be pristine. Take something off - yes, but I try to be reasonable.

 

Next, I factor in how desirable that guitar is and whether it truly is what I'm looking for. Neither a 16 series or a dread is high on my list so I wouldn't be interested, but if someone wants that particular model they might be willing to overlook the blems.

 

The pup is meaningless to me but you'll probably do more damage trying to remove it. New owner might want it - this good be a good guitar for a gigging musician on a budget. I don't think having it in necessarily raises the value.

 

Last thing is how quickly you need the cash. If you can wait for the right buyer you'll obviously get more, if you want to unload it then you get what you get.

 

I believe strongly in being honest with your presentation - show the bad along with the good. If the action and neck angle are perfect, show that in pictures along with the blems.

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Wow. The price came up about $150 and is actually about $50 more than the MSRP for an MMV that I would want to replace it with. .

 

The way I see it, I'd be selling a guitar with no buzzes or intonation problems but with a pair of cracks on the top right up against the binding down on the treble side of the lower bout. They'd required cleating and then glued up with runny CA glue, a repair that could be $150-$200 depending on whether or not there needs to be any work done to the finish. The neck also has a lot of dings; God but I HATE Spanish cedar. Even though it's a cypress is still dings if you look at it funny as if it were a real cedar.

 

I think it would be a stretch to call this guitar to be in "good" condition unless I had it professionally repaired. I figured I'd be extremely lucky to get $700 for it. A realistic price would be lower. Even though the prices are similar, I'd expect that it would be unlikely to find an older MMV (without the Richlite) for a similar price. I'm seeing those going for $900 nowadays.

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It's probably worth $600-650 depending on the damage you mention. Got any pics of the damage? If it's minor cosmetically, it may bring a bit more.

 

Leave the pickup in. tough to remove w.o damaging the transducers. helps with value too.

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Nah - my arms are too fat to fit that far up inside the guitar. I had similar problems repairing the key crack on my Larrivee.

 

OT - man, but I'm terrible with my guitars! In fact, my whole house seems to be coming apart. I have a high impact family.

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I think the D-16GT is going to stay for a bit. I got a pretty informative mass email from Stewmac about using CA glue to fill in finish blemishes and after patching the key cracks in my Larrivee with some magnets I think I may just try to repair the cracks in the wood and finish on the top of this guitar.

 

I was tempted this weekend to try and trade it for a used MMV but I got to look at that guitar today and for reasons I will not get into decided in short order to pass on it.

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I just finished repairing a Little Martin that looked like the US Women's soccer team had used in the world cup - both top and back were broken away from the kerfing for maybe 8 or 9 inches. I used little dabs of medium super glue and clamps to close the gaps, then wicked thin CA in to finalize it. Only a very tiny bit on the outside that needed scraping - almost no damage to the finish when I was done. About an hour total, charged the owner thirty bucks.

 

A couple of tricks that might help - try putting a little bit of wax (candle, paraffin) next to the cracks - that way if you get sloppy with the CA it won't stick and is pretty easy to get off. I like those pipette things that SM sells - it makes it easy to control thin CA into cracks. Scrape with a razor blade or box cutter blade - put tape on most of the edge. I've used the magnets for clamps - you won't get a whole lot of pressure but they will hold things in place. Good luck

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Thanks, guys. I've decided to keep it and have talked to a few luthier types and they've talked me through the repair. I've never been one to sell something and if this one had to go I think I'd just donate it to a friend.

 

In the meantime, I'll put the GAS aside and continue on with my second build (rosewood/Carpathian medium jumbo) and fix the loose neck block on that 40 year old Epiphone Texan FT-160N 12 string. I'll get around to fixing these cracks but they appear to be stable and apart from the oopsie I DO know how to take care of my guitars with regards to humidity.

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