Jump to content

Public apology


DeepEnd

Recommended Posts

  • Members

Neal and I have been exchanging PM's and at one point I said I would post a public apology if kwillman posted again ("Are there acoustic strings that are better than others?" http://www.harmonycentral.com/forum/forum/guitar/acapella-42/31354245-newb-question-are-there-acoustic-strings-that-are-better-than-others). It had been a few days since kwillman's initial post and the odds were that he/she was either another one post wonder or had been driven off by the bickering on the part of more senior members who should be better behaved. I said as much and in the process offended Neal. Now, though, kwillman has indeed posted again in the same thread so apparently he/she has defied the odds. With that in mind, I apologize to kwillman, and only to kwillman. As for the rest of you, I have no reason to apologize so I don't. That said, it has in fact been a week and a half since kwillman's original post. I know if I asked for advice and received it I'd make an effort to acknowledge that advice and thank the persons involved, and I wouldn't take a week and a half to do it no matter how busy I was. But that's me.

 

Best wishes,

David P.

(DeepEnd)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Consider this a wild card apology if you feel owed one from me.

 

On a more interesting note, let me tell you how I'm fixing the rotted portion of my house's exterior.

 

Disclaimer: These techniques are not to be construed as applicable to repairing damage to a guitar or other musical instrument. There. On-topic content addressed.

 

It's a wood frame and exterior stucco'd structure. I have a 72 inch wide double bay-type window on a flat facade. Beneath it, the stucco was cracking and splitting open like a laceration. A quick tap test of the area with the end of the wood hammer handle told me there was rot.

 

I opened up the wall beneath the window using a Roto-Zip saw blade to cut through the stucco and mesh beneath it to the sheeting the mesh was stapled to. I got that all cleared off and voila, rotted wood. Changing blades to a wood blade, I cut away all the rotten wood sheeting and planed the good remaining portions of the vertical wall studs to a lesser thickness (insulation removed). Basically, I removed an inch deep off each stud. That put me down to clean wood with no signs of rot. Then using my trusty table saw, I cut new 2X4's down to one inch thick and screwed them to the old studs to restore the original stud dimensions. Then I reinforced the studs by installing lateral braces between the them. They also serve as framing braces between the remaining clean exposed sheeting and the new sheeting being prepared for screwing on.

 

This is where I left off today.

 

Next, I will cut to size 1/2 inch thick sheeting (plywood) and fit it to the wall. When it fits, I'll remove it, staple in new R30 insulation, staple on a new vapor barrier and then permanently screw the sized sheeting in place with a goodly amount of calking along the lower portion of the wall to ensure moisture and vermin can't get in.

 

Stainless wood screws were purchased for this project.

 

Then, I'll apply more vapor barrier material to the plywood exterior, cut to size and install some cement board and seal the seams with cement patching compound. Then I'll rip down some facia board, pre-seal it with polyester resin on the flats and especially on the end grain, and screw it on. I'll follow that with a thorough bead of calking on all the seams, prime it and paint it.

 

I apologize if there's any details that escape your understanding. I will further detail them upon request.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

It's Bitches here, biscuit eaters over there. No apologies for that, either.

 

Okay, today I got the sheeting on, calking done and a coat of paint on the raw sheeting to give it some temporary curb appeal. Tomorrow is another day. Minor set-back when the screw securing the masonry blade onto the Roto-Zip contacted the wall causing it to be torqued into the ludicrous range. I had to use a Dremel tool and cut-off wheel to cut off the head of the screw, then run to the store to get another and a replacement masonry blade. Maddening for such a minor thing but it put me 2 hours off schedule (dammit).

 

Tomorrow, if the weather holds, the cement board and facia framing go on, a coat of paint with sand thrown on for a faux stucco finish (repeated as necessary), sealer and then a soft christening. That may take more than one day but I'll attempt an early start. Table saws at dawn!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Weather wasn't agreeable completely today. It looked like it was going to rain so I graded the area around the work site to pitch it away from the house. It was pitched towards the house and that was probably the crux of the original problem. In re-pitching I removed and transferred about 1/2 yard of topsoil to another area of the property that needed building up due to an old-growth Live Oak tree messing up the surface contour. Turns out that job took quite a while to re-pitch and prep for the ultimate goal of placing *pavers in the area. It was a badly needed work-out for me so I got into it and paced myself shovel full by shovel full.

 

Then, a shower, a couple cold ones and a few well-spent minutes Go Ogling Townes Van Zandt's music to find another couple songs to add to my satchel.

 

*This word not recognized by the site's spell check feature.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

MY day sucked. Went to my work vehicle to SCRAPE THE ICE OFF THE WINDOWS. You must remember snow, cold and ice? So I have a "step van" type vehicle, and normally, the wipers will stick to the window when it freezes, no big deal right? And they did, so I took the long handled scraper and nudged it. It broke. Driver's side. The whole thing had rusted through. So I'm sorry that happened. Real sorry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

I know the truck and the wiper system. I drove one for a few years as a support truck while in the military. But, I never had to fix anything. Motor pool did that. Plus, they ran 24/7 yada-yada so they never were cold when I took over at shift change. Warm, toasty and fully functional. In Alaska with used the rear doors for entry/exit and created a mud room with an additional interior door so the heat wouldn't be lost with every entry/exit. We were just moving troops around, though, and at any given time out max pax load-out might have been 7-8 reluctant souls going to work on frozen airplanes in the morning.

 

Who fixes your van? Are you out of pocket or can it be billed back? Route loss insurance? Such a thing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members
Consider this a wild card apology if you feel owed one from me.

 

On a more interesting note, let me tell you how I'm fixing the rotted portion of my house's exterior.

 

Disclaimer: These techniques are not to be construed as applicable to repairing damage to a guitar or other musical instrument. There. On-topic content addressed.

 

It's a wood frame and exterior stucco'd structure. I have a 72 inch wide double bay-type window on a flat facade. Beneath it, the stucco was cracking and splitting open like a laceration. A quick tap test of the area with the end of the wood hammer handle told me there was rot.

 

I opened up the wall beneath the window using a Roto-Zip saw blade to cut through the stucco and mesh beneath it to the sheeting the mesh was stapled to. I got that all cleared off and voila, rotted wood. Changing blades to a wood blade, I cut away all the rotten wood sheeting and planed the good remaining portions of the vertical wall studs to a lesser thickness (insulation removed). Basically, I removed an inch deep off each stud. That put me down to clean wood with no signs of rot. Then using my trusty table saw, I cut new 2X4's down to one inch thick and screwed them to the old studs to restore the original stud dimensions. Then I reinforced the studs by installing lateral braces between the them. They also serve as framing braces between the remaining clean exposed sheeting and the new sheeting being prepared for screwing on.

 

This is where I left off today.

 

Next, I will cut to size 1/2 inch thick sheeting (plywood) and fit it to the wall. When it fits, I'll remove it, staple in new R30 insulation, staple on a new vapor barrier and then permanently screw the sized sheeting in place with a goodly amount of calking along the lower portion of the wall to ensure moisture and vermin can't get in.

 

Stainless wood screws were purchased for this project.

 

Then, I'll apply more vapor barrier material to the plywood exterior, cut to size and install some cement board and seal the seams with cement patching compound. Then I'll rip down some facia board, pre-seal it with polyester resin on the flats and especially on the end grain, and screw it on. I'll follow that with a thorough bead of calking on all the seams, prime it and paint it.

 

I apologize if there's any details that escape your understanding. I will further detail them upon request.

 

I might have approached the studs a little differently, depending on the situation. Seeing as they were below a window, that is a place where strength is especially important. I probably would have "sistered" a new stud to the existing ones. That involves cutting the studs to the same length as the bad ones and screwing them to the existing studs. Sometimes you have wiring or other mechanicals in the way, which makes this method harder or not possible. The plus side is that you get a stronger structure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members
Weather wasn't agreeable completely today. It looked like it was going to rain so I graded the area around the work site to pitch it away from the house. It was pitched towards the house and that was probably the crux of the original problem. In re-pitching I removed and transferred about 1/2 yard of topsoil to another area of the property that needed building up due to an old-growth Live Oak tree messing up the surface contour. Turns out that job took quite a while to re-pitch and prep for the ultimate goal of placing *pavers in the area. It was a badly needed work-out for me so I got into it and paced myself shovel full by shovel full.

 

Then, a shower, a couple cold ones and a few well-spent minutes Go Ogling Townes Van Zandt's music to find another couple songs to add to my satchel.

 

*This word not recognized by the site's spell check feature.

 

This site doesn't have a spell check, it's a spell stumble.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Samilyn ... is that you?

Then I declare 2015 being the year of the return of the living dead. Haven't seen so many dear and long lost faces in a while....

 

... maybe we should start a thread about Zager... wait ... what about bridgepins?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...