Replacement tailpiece for resonator.

[TN.Frank]

From what I've read it's not a matter of IF but WHEN the tailpiece on my Rogue resonator breaks so I wonder what would be a better replacement. Would a steel one or a brass one be better? Here's a link to the two.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Resonator_guitar_tailpieces.html

Or does it not really matter. I just want to get one that WON'T break again.

[horseman1]

I've had mine a long time and havent had a problem. I did order a replacement like you "just in case" and its still in the package.

 

Allparts part number TP 0498-010.

 

As far as I can tell the replacement one (magnet test and flexing it) is chrome plated spring steel. The original one on mine appears to be nickel plated brass.

 

The steel would certainly be stronger.

[Samilyn]

 

I've had mine a long time and havent had a problem. I did order a replacement like you "just in case" and its still in the package. Allparts part number TP 0498-010. As far as I can tell the replacement one (magnet test and flexing it) is chrome plated spring steel. The original one on mine appears to be nickel plated brass. The steel would certainly be stronger.

 

 

+1

 

I'd get the steel one.

[NotDead]

You may need to look up measurements, but guitar tailpieces may work.

If so, guitarfetish has a nice selection.

http://store.guitarfetish.com/arbrandta.html

[Fred Fartboski]

 

From what I've read it's not a matter of IF but WHEN the tailpiece on my Rogue resonator breaks

 

Yeah. I've read in a couple of reviews about some of them having defective tailpieces. The ones on the two I bought are fine after a year and a half.

[TN.Frank]

I know it might be fine and not break at all or for years BUT I'd rather be safe then sorry so I might as well order one and put it on before it breaks and takes something else with it. So ya'll think steel would be the best option? That'll probably be the one that I go with then. Thanks.

[Gary Palmer]

Both should hold up ok, so the decision is basically nickle or chrome plated. I much prefer nickle, but would wait til I had the instrument before deciding.

[TN.Frank]

I think part of the problem is the nickle plated brass tailpiece. I noticed back when I used to reload ammo for Caswell's Shooting Range in Mesa, AZ. that most of the brass I'd cull out for having split cases were the nickle plated ones. For some reason nickle plating makes brass brittle so that it fails prematurely. It was very rare to find a straight brass case with a split in it. I think I'll go with the Chrome steel, it'll be stronger and less likely to break. Thanks for the input.

[Gary Palmer]

I think part of the problem is the nickle plated brass tailpiece. I noticed back when I used to reload ammo for Caswell's Shooting Range in Mesa, AZ. that most of the brass I'd cull out for having split cases were the nickle plated ones. For some reason nickle plating makes brass brittle so that it fails prematurely. It was very rare to find a straight brass case with a split in it. I think I'll go with the Chrome steel, it'll be stronger and less likely to break. Thanks for the input.

 

 

No probs, but let's not forget these parts aren't undergoing anywhere the same loading or pressures experienced by a casing as the round is fired. Plus nickled casings tend to have slightly thinner brass than normal in order to chamber and eject smoothly.

 

Both types of plating and base materials have their own inherent problems, but I'd still wait and see which best matches your instrument in terms of aesthetics. Stewmac's gear tends to be top notch.

[Freeman Keller]

You can get nice replacement tailpieces from Beard or Stewmac. While you are at it get Beard's dvd on setting up a spider for lap play - this is basically what they do to convert an inexpensive Asian reso into what they sell as a Goldtone. Change the cone, seat the spider legs, adjust the tension screw, get rid of the rattles, set it up right and you should have a great playing git.

 

Many reso players put a little piece of felt or ensolite under the tailpiece to eliminate rattles on the coverplate. I frankly doubt that it will break however.

[pinchegordo]

Anyone know where i can get a tailpiece like that for a bass?

[TN.Frank]

I ordered the Chrome steel one from SM, should be here Monday or Tuesday, same day as the resonator. Figure it's better to have it and not need it then to need it and not have it.

I'll probably give it the once over and check everything out then play it for a few days to see how it does. Then I'll get into it and adjust things that need it. I'm pretty much use to doing my own set-up work since I've never had the extra cash to send it to a shop and I wouldn't trust em' to do it as well as I could anyway,LOL. Guess I'm kind of picky like that.

[Freeman Keller]

 

Anyone know where i can get a tailpiece like that for a bass?

 

 

Would a 4 string banjo tailpiece work?

 

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,_tailpieces/Banjo_tailpieces.html

 

or you could do like I'm going to do on my 12 string project - make my own

[Gary Palmer]

Anyone know where i can get a tailpiece like that for a bass?

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200258882025&cguid=e429a2ca11d0a0aad4028ee2fe662e19

 

Banjo tailpiece would potentially alter string spacing, whilst a trapeze will maintain it. I know this is a UK item, but a quick google search should raise available options.

[Freeman Keller]

I ordered the Chrome steel one from SM, should be here Monday or Tuesday, same day as the resonator. Figure it's better to have it and not need it then to need it and not have it. I'll probably give it the once over and check everything out then play it for a few days to see how it does. Then I'll get into it and adjust things that need it. I'm pretty much use to doing my own set-up work since I've never had the extra cash to send it to a shop and I wouldn't trust em' to do it as well as I could anyway,LOL. Guess I'm kind of picky like that.

 

There are some tricks to setting up a spider - the Beard dvd is really worth while. I took some pics of my Duolian when I replaced the cone and biscuit in it a while back, but when I put the Quarterman in the spider unfortunately I didn't take any pictures. Getting the tension screw set just right is key to nice clean tone.

 

As Paul Beard points out in the dvd one big difference between the Asian guitars and others is that their cones are commonly stamped while Quarterman or Dobro cones are spun - he has a little segment where he taps a stamped cone and it makes kind of a dull thud where a spun one rings like a little bell. If your Rogue has a plastic bridge insert it would be worth changing it to maple (John Dopreya says they tried every material and kept comming back to maple or ebony as the best sounding saddles)

 

Looking forward to hearing what you say about it when it arrives

 

 

btw - since a lot of folks have probably never seen the inside of a reso - here is the biscuit bridge Duolian with its lid off. Your spider will be completely different looking - quite a bit more complex. But the idea is the same. This is a stock Dobro tailpiece - it is 25 years old with no problems and the one on my woodie is 75 years old -

 

[pinchegordo]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200258882025&cguid=e429a2ca11d0a0aad4028ee2fe662e19 Banjo tailpiece would potentially alter string spacing, whilst a trapeze will maintain it. I know this is a UK item, but a quick google search should raise available options.

 

OI! cheers man,perfect.

[Gary Palmer]

OI! cheers man,perfect.

 

No probs pinch.

[TN.Frank]

Nice pic of the inside of the Biscuit. I know from what I've gathered that the cone actually acts like a speaker cone to make the sound of the strings either on the biscuit or the spider. Kind of a neat way to make it work over just using the top of the guitar to make the sound.

I've found a couple web sites that explain set-up. One was saying that to adjust the spider you turn the screw until it's just snug then 1/4 turn more and that's it, not to over tighten it. I'll have to see what the bridge is made of, hopefully it'll be something decent but since it's a less expensive resonator I'd bet it's plastic.

I guess I can start with the little things like the tailpiece and work my way up to getting it upgraded to better parts like the bridge, cone and maybe even a nicer looking cover. I just want it to sound nice right now without putting much into it. As I play more then I'll expect more out of it(and me) but until then I want to keep it on the cheap until I learn how to play.

[TN.Frank]

Here's the specs on the Rogue resonator

Rogue Classic Spider Resonator Features:

 

* Roundneck or squareneck

* Spruce top

* Mahogany back and sides

* Die-cast spider bridge

* Mother-of-pearl diamond position marker

* 10-1/2" spun aluminum resonator

* Chromeplated bell

* Brass coverplate and tailpiece

* Rosewood fretboard

Looks like it has a spun resonator and a cast bridge, guess that'll be ok. Don't know if I can swap out a maple bridge for the cast one, I think it's all part of the spider IIRC.

 

 

P.S.

Thought this was interesting:

http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/a-spidersetup.html

[Freeman Keller]

 

Here's the specs on the Rogue resonator Rogue Classic Spider Resonator Features: * Roundneck or squareneck * Spruce top * Mahogany back and sides * Die-cast spider bridge * Mother-of-pearl diamond position marker * 10-1/2" spun aluminum resonator * Chromeplated bell * Brass coverplate and tailpiece * Rosewood fretboard Looks like it has a spun resonator and a cast bridge, guess that'll be ok. Don't know if I can swap out a maple bridge for the cast one, I think it's all part of the spider IIRC. P.S. Thought this was interesting: http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/a-spidersetup.html

 

 

Spun cone is good. In my picture above I was replacing the stock dobro cone with one of the new NRP's and installing a carbon fiber biscuit (high tech stuff in an old guitar).

 

All spiders are cast, they have a slot in them that holds a one or two piece saddle - usually maple but I know that some asian guitars have plastic. The tension screw is in the middle, normally you can reach it thru a hole in the palm rest, and you are rght about not over tightening it. The saddle itself is slotted like a nut - noirmally that is how you make any action adjustments (deeping the slots). For lap playing you will want the strings pretty flat at both the nut and saddle. Last part of setup is that you want the cone to sit snug and evenly in the sound well and you want all the legs of the spider to sit evenly on top (they can be bent or sanded but be very careful).

 

When I work on mine I leave the cover plate off until I've got it just where I want it, then mark things, unstring it and put the cover back on. Because parts can shift around many players replace strings one at a time like on a mando or archtop.

 

And yes, the StewMac instructions are pretty good.

[horseman1]

The saddle on my Rogue is wood (as I recall), it appeared to be maple, but its been a while..