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JJB Prestige 330?


Jimmy Chaos

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I have a D15 in at the moment being fitted. The only possible issue appears to be the size of even the 15mm bugs needing sufficient soundboard size to permit wide enough spacing

 

Is a preamp essential? Certainly isn't with the K&K version, and that affects the math!

 

Will stick it through the AER when I get it back tomorrow and update.

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I use the K&K system. I believe the JJB is pretty much the same.

 

I love the K&Ks. I actually use the Pure + Pre-Phase in my guitars. I like the volume control (for tuning onstage with a clip on tuner) and the phase switch. It also has a preamp.

 

I use the regular K&K Pure Western, and I found it did not have a very high output. If you didn't utilize the mic preamp channels on the board, it didn't put out enough volume.

 

Anyway, they sound great. They do require a little EQ, though.

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I have a JJB Prestige 330 in my Guild GAD25 and my Taylor DN3. I just purchased a 3rd for my Martin HD35, but haven't installed it yet. I have played out at open mics several times and had a preamp with me, but never used it. After plugging me in and doing a quick level check, the host of the open mic said I didn't need one.

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I put one in my mandolin quite awhile ago and love it. Just recently put it in my Guild GAD JF-30, made it sound great too! Going to order one for my 12 string this week. Had to have my wife help me get the nut on the end pin jack; could not get my hand into the soundhole. I have using the PPS-200 and the Behringer preamp with no problems and great sound thru a Behringer acoustic amp.

Bob

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I use the K&K system. I believe the JJB is pretty much the same.


I love the K&Ks. I actually use the Pure + Pre-Phase in my guitars. I like the volume control (for tuning onstage with a clip on tuner) and the phase switch. It also has a preamp.


I use the regular K&K Pure Western, and I found it did not have a very high output. If you didn't utilize the mic preamp channels on the board, it didn't put out enough volume.


Anyway, they sound great. They do require a little EQ, though.

 

 

Was this glued in, or did you use the tape? I regular K&K PW--not mini. correct?--should give you tons of gain, glued in.

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I have a D15 in at the moment being fitted. The only possible issue appears to be the size of even the 15mm bugs needing sufficient soundboard size to permit wide enough spacing


Is a preamp essential? Certainly isn't with the K&K version, and that affects the math!


Will stick it through the AER when I get it back tomorrow and update.

 

 

K&K PWM is smaller than 15mm. about 12mm. I make transducers from 12mm piezo discs, and they are a bitch to solder.

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I put one in my mandolin quite awhile ago and love it. Just recently put it in my Guild GAD JF-30, made it sound great too! Going to order one for my 12 string this week. Had to have my wife help me get the nut on the end pin jack; could not get my hand into the soundhole. I have using the PPS-200 and the Behringer preamp with no problems and great sound thru a Behringer acoustic amp.

Bob

 

 

One trick is to use something long, like a shishkabob skewer. Stick it in through the endpin hole, slide the endpin jack on the end of the skewer, then pull it back towards the endpin hole. With a little care, you can pull the endpin jack out far enough to grab it with your fingernails.

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That is fine and dandy but they send you one that has a washer and a nut that attaches from the inside. So you have to reach inside and twist it on,

Bob

 

Bob, yer going about it wrong. You use the inner nut and washer to set the depth of the jack. Once that's set pull the thing back out of the soundhole and spin on the backshell and tighten it up. Then stick 'er back through the hole, slide on the outer washer and cinch the thing down with the outer nut. Then thread on the ferrule.

It'll take a few in and out checks for depth if you are real particular about how flush the ferrule to jack fit is. Use a nail or small screw driver in the cross hole to hold the jack body while you're snugging up the outer nut.

endpinjack.jpg

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Different!!! This is the type of end pin jack that they supply

Endpin-357x357.jpg
Bob

 

Bob, the process is the same and if there is not an outer nut and washer they sent the wrong items or the outer nut and washer were missing from the package. There should be two flat and one lock washer and two hex nuts, a backshell and the decorative ferrule. Of any of those you can do without it's the lock washer and backshell. If you don't intend the jack to ever go into another guitar and the backshell is missing a drop of green or blue locktite can be used to keep the inner nut locked at the position where the outer thread depth is correct.

That said, there should also be a backshell. It helps keep the cable in solid after the crimp.

JJB's 330 jack assembly should look similar to this, as should the vast majority of pick up endpin assemblies.

EndPin-640x240.png

Oh, and keep in mind some of the jacks have only one size threads on the jack housing.

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Here is the page to end pin jack installation. O really do know what I am doing with this type of stuff and did try to take the outer one off and it did not budge!



Bob

 

 

WTF???

My bad Bob.

We are now pleased to be able to offer an affordable end-pin jack upgrade. These are quality, nickel plated jacks. These must be installed from outside the guitar since the strap button is fixed and cannot be removed.

That ain't an upgrade and it's just wrong!

I'd have sent the damned thing back and told them to refund the difference between the standard jack and that "upgrade".

What an eff'n fail on their part.

 

Now, you didn't order that as an option, did you? If so, why?

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I just ordered it as their option on the page for the kit. :( Yes, I am aware of the other type and just did not think it out. Next time I will order the right one from Stew-Mac!

Bob

PS- I think this discussion was good so as to allow others to know before they order

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If you take the outer collar off there should a hole drilled through the threaded part of the jack. If there's not, then drill a 1/16" hole about a half inch from the end. Pull the end pin, ream out the hole if necessary then snake the curved end of a used guitar string ghrough and pull the end through the sound hole. Then snake the guitar string through that little hole in the jack (twist the string around itself so it doesn't slip) and use the guitar string to pull the jack through the end pin hole. Once you have the jack through the hole , slip the outside washers and stuff back on and you should be good to go. :thu:

 

At least, that's how it went when I put a K&K PWM in one of my guitars. I've been considering a JJB for my D-16GT and was hoping it would go just as easily. :idk:

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That is fine and dandy but they send you one that has a washer and a nut that attaches from the inside. So you have to reach inside and twist it on,

Bob

 

 

I use a 7/16" bit, so the hole is just large enough that I can screw the strap-pin jack in place...basically, it cuts it's own threads.

 

In the 15 or so years I've done this, I've never had a strap-pin jack come loose.

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Truly, I don't know why JJB sells those types of jacks because everybody else uses the type that tighten from the outside. Stew-Mac makes a tool to do the job, but who wants to spend $25 for another tool to use once! Terry, your way should work great as long as you haven't mounted the piezos. I glued the one in my mandolin. I was looking thru the SM catalog and they don't even sell that style anymore, maybe JJB bought them all :). I think the whole thing is that we all should be forewarned and just buy the piezos from JJB and the endpin from SM or use Terry's method.

Bob

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