Takamine gb7c

[RushinDman]

Anyone play this guitar? Looking for some feed back?

[Jimmy Chaos]

Anyone play this guitar? Looking for some feed back?

 

Put the guitar right next to the amp and strum. :poke:

[acousticdepot]

Put the guitar right next to the amp and strum. :poke:

 

lmao!

[RushinDman]

Here we go another tough computer nerd

[BLUtunes]

You're talking about the Garth Brooks model, right? I had one. Nice git. What do you want to know about it?

[RushinDman]

I'm looking at picking one up any durability issues? How do you find the sound I've only heard it on you tube? Anything I should know before I buy it? I've never had a takamine before. Also I noticed theres no pins for the strings how do you change them

 

Thanks

Jamie

[RushinDman]

Sorry and yes the Garth Brooks model

[Samilyn]

I'm looking at picking one up any durability issues? How do you find the sound I've only heard it on you tube? Anything I should know before I buy it? I've never had a takamine before. Also I noticed theres no pins for the strings how do you change them Thanks Jamie

 

Hard to tell for sure from pics of that Tak, but most pinless bridges look like this, so changing strings is easy.

 

[BLUtunes]

 

I'm looking at picking one up any durability issues? How do you find the sound I've only heard it on you tube? Anything I should know before I buy it? I've never had a takamine before. Also I noticed theres no pins for the strings how do you change them Thanks Jamie

 

 

Well, yes, the "pinless bridge" means that you simply load the strings through the bottom as in the example that Sami provided. Supposedly, it provides a better transfer of energy to the top. Anyway, it's a real convenience and I liked the concept. I would like to see other brands go with that kind of bridge.

 

As for durability issues, it is one of the "pro-level" Taks and, as such, can be considered very dependable. This is the brand that many, many big name acts use for touring instruments. However, keep in mind that it has a cedar top and those are NOT durable. The one I bought was well used, and had lots of damage to the top. It also had some "issues" - mainly there was a tone bar or something lose that caused a rattle sound in the instrument. That's why I sold it. But it had been used HARD for many, many years, and any instrument can have something come undone after long enough hard use. But I had no complaints about the guitar except for this. It was a wonderful sounding instrument.

[BLUtunes]

A couple of other things to be aware of with that guitar. First of all, with the funky guitar shaped soundhole, you will NOT be able to find a feedback buster to fit it (if this even matters to you). Also, it has an 1 11/16" nut, so it's not ideal for fingerpicking. Of course, I've now got a Epiphone Masterbilt that is 1 11/16" and it doesn't seem to be stopping me from fingerpicking on it, so maybe I was being too picky. Also, the last time I checked, it was about $1300 real world price (not MSLP), which puts it into the price range of some other seriously nice guitars. I picked mine up used for about half that. And, if it didn't have strange noises coming out of it, I probably would have kept it. But, if you're considering buying one at anywhere near the full new price, you have a LOT of really, really nice guitar choices available to you.

 

Just a few things to think about.

[RushinDman]

Ok thanks! For all the information. I've never owned a cedar top guitar why aren't they durable? The bridge makes sense now that I see the photo also the one I'm looking at is on eBay for 800us too much?? I have a garrison g50 now which I decent guitar and would like to spend a grand on another and I love Garth Brooks so I thought of giving this one a shot. My favorite guitar is a hummingbird but out of my price range right now what would you recommend for $1000? Thanks again

[BLUtunes]

Well, cedar is one of the softest woods used in guitar construction, so it is extremely vulnerable to dings and stuff. If you hit it with a pick, it'll be scarred from the experience. I can't really recommend a specific guitar in the $1000 price range because there are just SO many excellent choices there, and it comes down to personal taste. i like the GB7C, and thought it sounded wonderful, but I certainly wouldn't recommend laying down $800 on ANY guitar that you haven't played. For me, I thought the combination of the cedar top and rosewood b/s sounded lovely - incredibly complex! - but it might or might not be your cup of tea. I paid $650 for mine and, as I've mentioned, it turned out to be broken. I sold it at a loss, too, I think for around $600. $800 bucks for a newer one that doesn't have any "issues" would probably be a fair deal. Among other excellent choices in that general price range ($1000-ish), I would definitely look at some of the Larrivee's and Martins, especially if you're shopping used.

[RushinDman]

Yes I know the music store here doesn't have a very good selection of guitars and they are way over priced which is too bad that's why I am asking around on here. Plus I live 5 hours away from a decent music store thanks alot for the info. I haven't seen many larivees for under 1000 though but I'll keep looking

[BLUtunes]

I found my Larrivee Om-03 for $800 and sold as "used" but clearly was in pristine, new condition. It hadn't even been set up. If you like the Gibson sound, you might consider one of the Epiphone Masterbilts. I would take a road trip and find a store that has some in stock and play them to see if they suit you. Around $550 or so, depending on model. VERY nice guitars for the money. Also, I was very impressed with the Yamaha A-series guitars. Well made, solid wood instruments that come with a very nice case and a feedback buster in the case (on the electric models) and I think they're about $750 or so new.

 

Really, though, my main advice is to get out and try some guitars in person. $800 to $1000 is a LOT of money to throw down on a guitar that you've never heard or played. You're basically gambling with your money when you do that. You might end up liking the guitar or you might now. Even if you have to drive 5 hours or more, you need to get yourself to a BIG music store that's got several guitars, so that you can try them out. Make an overnight trip of it if necessary.

[RushinDman]

There was a yamaha I liked Here a yamaha life I believe it's called they want 750 new for that one? Ever hear of it? Not sure if it's a solid wood guitar or not. But I think your right I'll wait till I make the trip

[BLUtunes]

You might be talking about the Yamaha LL16 or LLX16 (the X indicates that it's and acoustic/electric). Those are definitely nice guitars. I've got the LLX6, which is one step down and loses the solid wood back and sides, but has a similar tonality. The new A-series guitars are just out in the stores. You can check the online stores to find a fair price for them.

[katopp]

I do not know, how you abuse your guitars. I have a solid cedar topped Tanglewood 12-String, so it's strumming all the time and the top still looks good after 4 years of playing.

[BLUtunes]

 

I do not know, how you abuse your guitars. I have a solid cedar topped Tanglewood 12-String, so it's strumming all the time and the top still looks good after 4 years of playing.

 

 

If you're referring to me and the beat up Takamine that I had, I'm afraid that you didn't read the post carefully enough. I BOUGHT THE GUITAR IN THAT CONDITION. It was quite old and had been used and abused - but not by me. Since I mostly play fingerstyle, it probably wouldn't have sustained any additional damage in my hands if I had owned it for years. It was only the rattle that I found in the guitar, which my luthier could not track down and, therefore, couldn't fix, that caused me to sell the guitar.

[katopp]

No, was mentioning that in general.

I've had my first 12-string all-out strummer for 20 years until I've lost it during the move to Ireland and it wasn't spared anything ... But still the top was almost ding-free. The back was another story ... Belt rash.