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  • My First Neck Reset



    Just finished my first neck reset on this parlor guitar. Plays well, also had to reglue the bridge, cut a new nut and fix a couple of cracks. It was a good learning experience. Plays well with @ 5/64 at the 12th fret.
    <div class="signaturecontainer">*********************** ****<br />
    1972 Guild Starfire IV<br />
    1993 G&amp;L Legacy<br />
    2009 MIJ Jaguar HH<br />
    1978 Alvarez Regent<br />
    1994 MIM Strat - Relic<br />
    2007 MIM Tele<br />
    '50's Squier Classic Vibe Strat<br />
    Squier Classic Vibe Tele <br />
    Godin Exit 22<br />
    Blonde Squier '51<br />
    Squier FMT Strat<br />
    Squier Tele Special<br />
    Epiphone LP Special I TV Yellow<br />
    Rogue Triolian Biscuit Resonator<br />
    Rogue Grand Concert<br />
    Silver Creek D160<br />
    Squier Bronco Bass<br />
    Fender DG-7<br />
    Fender DG-8S<br />
    Jay Turser 300 MBL<br />
    1935 Harmony Supertone Archtop</div>

  • #2
    Nice little parlor; you should've taken pics along the way and let us see the process. That's a craft / a skill I'd love to learn and know how to do; it would save me some money. I like the idea that people are restoring, fixing,and saving guitars irrespective of the cost of the guitar.
    <div class="signaturecontainer">Trina <img src="http://img3.harmony-central.com/acapella/ubb/snacks.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Snacks" class="inlineimg" /><br />
    <br />
    <b><i>Westerly Guild Guitars - Website</i></b><br />
    <a href="http://www.westerlyguildguitars.com/index.htm" target="_blank">http://www.westerlyguildguitars.com/index.htm</a><br />
    <br />
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    <b>outdoorgb</b><br />
    <i>My goal was/is to be &quot;Campfire Good&quot;.</i>

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    <b>Stackabones</b><br />
    <i>What's &quot;campfire good&quot;? I've been around some campfires where the players were pretty good.</i>

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    </div>
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    <b>outdoorgb</b><br />
    <i>So if that is &quot;campfire good&quot;...and that is my goal...Then I guess I'll stick to &quot;candle good&quot; until I improve...</i>

    </div>
    </div>
    </div> </div>

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks, I thought of taking pictures, but this being my first attempt it was enough of a challenge just to get the work done. I choose this guitar because it needed a lot of work and I didn't have much into it if the patient didn't survive.
      <div class="signaturecontainer">*********************** ****<br />
      1972 Guild Starfire IV<br />
      1993 G&amp;L Legacy<br />
      2009 MIJ Jaguar HH<br />
      1978 Alvarez Regent<br />
      1994 MIM Strat - Relic<br />
      2007 MIM Tele<br />
      '50's Squier Classic Vibe Strat<br />
      Squier Classic Vibe Tele <br />
      Godin Exit 22<br />
      Blonde Squier '51<br />
      Squier FMT Strat<br />
      Squier Tele Special<br />
      Epiphone LP Special I TV Yellow<br />
      Rogue Triolian Biscuit Resonator<br />
      Rogue Grand Concert<br />
      Silver Creek D160<br />
      Squier Bronco Bass<br />
      Fender DG-7<br />
      Fender DG-8S<br />
      Jay Turser 300 MBL<br />
      1935 Harmony Supertone Archtop</div>

      Comment


      • #4






        Quote Originally Posted by amadylan
        View Post

        Thanks, I thought of taking pictures, but this being my first attempt it was enough of a challenge just to get the work done. I choose this guitar because it needed a lot of work and I didn't have much into it if the patient didn't survive.




        I can understand that. We've had other HCAG members post their neck reset in progress pics, those skills aren't for the faint of heart! Was there anyone thing that was unforeseen or a challenge when you were doing the neck reset?
        <div class="signaturecontainer">Trina <img src="http://img3.harmony-central.com/acapella/ubb/snacks.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Snacks" class="inlineimg" /><br />
        <br />
        <b><i>Westerly Guild Guitars - Website</i></b><br />
        <a href="http://www.westerlyguildguitars.com/index.htm" target="_blank">http://www.westerlyguildguitars.com/index.htm</a><br />
        <br />
        <div class="bbcode_container">
        <div class="bbcode_quote">
        <div class="quote_container">
        <div class="bbcode_quote_container"></div>

        <b>outdoorgb</b><br />
        <i>My goal was/is to be &quot;Campfire Good&quot;.</i>

        </div>
        </div>
        </div> <div class="bbcode_container">
        <div class="bbcode_quote">
        <div class="quote_container">
        <div class="bbcode_quote_container"></div>

        <b>Stackabones</b><br />
        <i>What's &quot;campfire good&quot;? I've been around some campfires where the players were pretty good.</i>

        </div>
        </div>
        </div> <div class="bbcode_container">
        <div class="bbcode_quote">
        <div class="quote_container">
        <div class="bbcode_quote_container"></div>

        <b>outdoorgb</b><br />
        <i>So if that is &quot;campfire good&quot;...and that is my goal...Then I guess I'll stick to &quot;candle good&quot; until I improve...</i>

        </div>
        </div>
        </div> </div>

        Comment


        • #5
          I guess the hardest part was to get the neck off the guitar. Getting the steam into the dovetail at the right place. I watched a few youtube videos that helped. It took several attempts before the neck would loosen. I think it will be much easier the next time, now that I've done one. Then of course, getting the right neck angle on the dovetail. There is a formula that helps calculate how much to remove - also on youtube.
          <div class="signaturecontainer">*********************** ****<br />
          1972 Guild Starfire IV<br />
          1993 G&amp;L Legacy<br />
          2009 MIJ Jaguar HH<br />
          1978 Alvarez Regent<br />
          1994 MIM Strat - Relic<br />
          2007 MIM Tele<br />
          '50's Squier Classic Vibe Strat<br />
          Squier Classic Vibe Tele <br />
          Godin Exit 22<br />
          Blonde Squier '51<br />
          Squier FMT Strat<br />
          Squier Tele Special<br />
          Epiphone LP Special I TV Yellow<br />
          Rogue Triolian Biscuit Resonator<br />
          Rogue Grand Concert<br />
          Silver Creek D160<br />
          Squier Bronco Bass<br />
          Fender DG-7<br />
          Fender DG-8S<br />
          Jay Turser 300 MBL<br />
          1935 Harmony Supertone Archtop</div>

          Comment


          • #6
            Good job, Amadylan. Having done a few from scratch and a few repairs makes me appreciated those folks who do it for a living (and why they charge so much). In my humble, resetting an existing neck is harder than doing a new one - what with the shimming and dealing with the old glue and whatnot.



            Building up steam (pun intended) to do one of the impossible resets on my old Yamie - will take and post pics when I do it.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks Freeman, I have an old Yamaha also but I didn't think neck resets were possible because of the glue they used. Do you know a secret?

              I think I'm going to try a bridge doctor on that one.
              <div class="signaturecontainer">*********************** ****<br />
              1972 Guild Starfire IV<br />
              1993 G&amp;L Legacy<br />
              2009 MIJ Jaguar HH<br />
              1978 Alvarez Regent<br />
              1994 MIM Strat - Relic<br />
              2007 MIM Tele<br />
              '50's Squier Classic Vibe Strat<br />
              Squier Classic Vibe Tele <br />
              Godin Exit 22<br />
              Blonde Squier '51<br />
              Squier FMT Strat<br />
              Squier Tele Special<br />
              Epiphone LP Special I TV Yellow<br />
              Rogue Triolian Biscuit Resonator<br />
              Rogue Grand Concert<br />
              Silver Creek D160<br />
              Squier Bronco Bass<br />
              Fender DG-7<br />
              Fender DG-8S<br />
              Jay Turser 300 MBL<br />
              1935 Harmony Supertone Archtop</div>

              Comment


              • #8
                2 words: butt joint. The bridge doctor won't solve the neck angle problem, just the bridge lifting.
                Cornelius Clodhopper

                Comment


                • #9
                  That particular guitar does have a pronounced belly bow, so I think it might be effective. We'll see...thanks
                  <div class="signaturecontainer">*********************** ****<br />
                  1972 Guild Starfire IV<br />
                  1993 G&amp;L Legacy<br />
                  2009 MIJ Jaguar HH<br />
                  1978 Alvarez Regent<br />
                  1994 MIM Strat - Relic<br />
                  2007 MIM Tele<br />
                  '50's Squier Classic Vibe Strat<br />
                  Squier Classic Vibe Tele <br />
                  Godin Exit 22<br />
                  Blonde Squier '51<br />
                  Squier FMT Strat<br />
                  Squier Tele Special<br />
                  Epiphone LP Special I TV Yellow<br />
                  Rogue Triolian Biscuit Resonator<br />
                  Rogue Grand Concert<br />
                  Silver Creek D160<br />
                  Squier Bronco Bass<br />
                  Fender DG-7<br />
                  Fender DG-8S<br />
                  Jay Turser 300 MBL<br />
                  1935 Harmony Supertone Archtop</div>

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Check to see if there's a loose brace underneath then.



                    Seriously, I have similar issues with a 1970s era Takamine that was my prized guitar in the years leading up to my first solid wood guitar. It had the belly bow and even binding coming off at the neck joint. I took it to a tech who told me the cost of a traditional neck reset would cost more than the value of the guitar. He offered a "plan B" for 1/3 of the price and I went with it. A week later my guitar was like new but after several years the bridge started lifting again even though I stuck with light guage strings as the tech instructed. A cracked X brace beneath the treble side bridge wing was the cuplrit and it was causing a noticeable buzz. As for the neck joint, it appears that he used either marine epoxy or CA glue and he was not neat with it.



                    I had grand designs of steaming off the neck joint and re-topping the old girl but alas a couple of beers greatly ehanced my daring but subdued my caution and intellect. I never got the neck off. In short: I destroyed the neck trying to work it free because while I applied steam I had done so at the wrong point and the epoxy wouldn't have let go anyway. I'll let the pictures tell the rest of the sad tale:



                    Glue slop from the previous repair:





                    My first mistake: using the "cold chisel" method of removing the bridge, but in my estimation both the top and the bridge were going bye-bye anyway





                    I opted to try the neck reset and retop the guitar because the next had considerable drop-off:





                    Sooooo, I took it over to my friend's house where he has the special tools needed to pull the neck - and a capuccino machine to appy steam:. THe thing is though that the aforementioned beer dulled both our senses and I pulled the wrong fret:









                    After about 10 minutes of accompishing nothing more than clearing our sinuses I put the guitar in the jig and proceeded to pound away at the heel cap with a fretting hammer. Piece began to fly and my sanity came apart as did the neck and 20 years of memories. I think I was madly singing Maxwell's Silver Hammer as I did this:







                    The moral I took from this story was almost literally "don't bite off more than you can chew" - or more appropriately don't take a hammer to a prized momento. Now the guitar sits in its case awaiting its ultimate fate while I work carefully try to complete a scratch guitar build and collect materials to build another rosewood dreanought. Like Freeman, I've decided that building a replacement from scratch might be easier. I intend to strip the old Tak for parts and will use its case to house its successor that now resides in my basement in the form of planks:







                    BTW, I did the Bridge Doctor thing several years ago. I wish I'd learned a little more about woodworking first and was more appreciative of the immense stress that the bridge is under though. I used one of the drill-in types and my major mistake was tightening down that screw too quickly as it split the bridge along the grain. It did solve the problem otherwise and I dare say that it did mellow out the guitar's tone somewhat - but on a dread that I was advised not to use medium gauge strings on that's not necessarily a good thing. It increased the mass of the guitar which IME reduces its resonance, which on a laminated guitar glued together with crazy glue is not necessarily all that good to begin with. If I had to describe the tone, I'd say it was along the lines of an older Breedlove Atlas AD25SR but quieter. It was an interesting experiment though and I chalked it up as a learning experience.
                    Cornelius Clodhopper

                    Comment


                    • #11






                      Quote Originally Posted by amadylan
                      View Post

                      Thanks Freeman, I have an old Yamaha also but I didn't think neck resets were possible because of the glue they used. Do you know a secret?

                      I think I'm going to try a bridge doctor on that one.




                      That is exactly right, however some people claim that sometimes they will pop with a little steam and enough force. My plan is to try steam, if that doesn't work I'll do the sawn off neck trick. Here are two references, I have a third on another computer that I'll add tonight



                      http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luth...ichreset1.html



                      http://liutaiomottola.com/construction/Bolton.htm



                      There is a regular forumite Yamahaneck who does this fairly often. I'll find one of his threads and post it



                      As far as the Bridge doc, I am another person who tried one with less than satisfactory results. I had an old martin 12 string with a bit of a belly (and needing a reset) - I tried the doc and it slightly lessed the belly but it made the guitar almost unplayable (and it sounded terrible). Took it back out, reset the neck (which largely removed the belly because of the reduced angle of the strings on the bridge) and the guitar plays wonderfully. If you do try the doc, get the one that you drill thru the bridge (not the kind with the little brass pins with holes in the heads). I used the latter and the break angle is so low it hardly plays at all.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        kwakatak

                        Thanks for the pictures, and the warning -- don't imbibe before surgery!

                        I do have a question for you though - is the only way to have photos appear in your threads to host them somewhere and link to them?



                        Freeman

                        Thanks for posting the links, I have read through the first one but will read the second also. I think the least intrusive would be to try the doctor first. As I said there is a lot of belly bow, but the neckjoint is solid. If that doesn't work I will probably keep it as a slide guitar and move on to the next. I have a well used 1935 Harmony Supertone Archtop that will be my next volunteer.
                        <div class="signaturecontainer">*********************** ****<br />
                        1972 Guild Starfire IV<br />
                        1993 G&amp;L Legacy<br />
                        2009 MIJ Jaguar HH<br />
                        1978 Alvarez Regent<br />
                        1994 MIM Strat - Relic<br />
                        2007 MIM Tele<br />
                        '50's Squier Classic Vibe Strat<br />
                        Squier Classic Vibe Tele <br />
                        Godin Exit 22<br />
                        Blonde Squier '51<br />
                        Squier FMT Strat<br />
                        Squier Tele Special<br />
                        Epiphone LP Special I TV Yellow<br />
                        Rogue Triolian Biscuit Resonator<br />
                        Rogue Grand Concert<br />
                        Silver Creek D160<br />
                        Squier Bronco Bass<br />
                        Fender DG-7<br />
                        Fender DG-8S<br />
                        Jay Turser 300 MBL<br />
                        1935 Harmony Supertone Archtop</div>

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Here is the other link



                          http://acapella.harmony-central.com/...off-neck-reset



                          I'll be interested in your reaction to the Bridge Doc.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You rang?



                            Check out this Framus Camping guitar, that I reset a few years ago:



                            I agree, when you install a JLD, you have to commit to the drill-through type, which I've had great results with. If you're torquing the c**p out of it, to de-belly a guitar, it's going to sound terrible, until the top finally unwarps. When I install them, I use a strobetuner, to get the top in equilibrium, a methodology not dissimilar to setting a whammy bar so that it will come back to tune.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Freeman,

                              Thanks for the link, it might be a while before I try the bridge doctor but I'll try to report.



                              Yamaneck

                              Thanks for posting that and also for the great how to on the alternative method of neck reset. I will probably want to try that at some point.



                              For the JLD, can you elaborate on "I use a strobetuner, to get the top in equilibrium"?



                              I have read that you have to be patient for it to be effective.
                              <div class="signaturecontainer">*********************** ****<br />
                              1972 Guild Starfire IV<br />
                              1993 G&amp;L Legacy<br />
                              2009 MIJ Jaguar HH<br />
                              1978 Alvarez Regent<br />
                              1994 MIM Strat - Relic<br />
                              2007 MIM Tele<br />
                              '50's Squier Classic Vibe Strat<br />
                              Squier Classic Vibe Tele <br />
                              Godin Exit 22<br />
                              Blonde Squier '51<br />
                              Squier FMT Strat<br />
                              Squier Tele Special<br />
                              Epiphone LP Special I TV Yellow<br />
                              Rogue Triolian Biscuit Resonator<br />
                              Rogue Grand Concert<br />
                              Silver Creek D160<br />
                              Squier Bronco Bass<br />
                              Fender DG-7<br />
                              Fender DG-8S<br />
                              Jay Turser 300 MBL<br />
                              1935 Harmony Supertone Archtop</div>

                              Comment

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