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  • Partscaster Tele

    Well, since I started the G&L Tribute Bluesboy I got a few weeks ago, I realized how much I missed my Tele days. I started looking around to build a low cost partscaster. Unfortunately, it didn't stay that way long. I have spent nearly $1200 at this point on parts, (still have a little to go,) have a luthier locally that owes me up to $500 of work from a prior deal to finalize it all, and will still need to buy a good case, but it is exactly what I wanted. Yea, I know I won't get my money out of it, but I don't expect to ever sell it. It has been custom designed by me, so I can't imagine parting with it.

    Body is being made by luthier in Indianna from straight grain Cherry, and has rear belly cut. It is 2 piece laminate (top/bottom) so it could be routed internally for trem, hidden wiring channels, and a small amount of honey comb weight relief of the body since Cherry is heavy. Single bound.

    Trem is Fender American Deluxe two point pivot model, but ordered a shortened Callaham arm for it.

    Pickups are custom shop Seymour Duncan Greenies with four conductor wiring. Wiring is from a Duncan plan using a Oak-Grigsby SuperSwitch to get 5 settings from the switch. N, inner coils of both, N+B, outer coils of both, B (Bridge is rw/rp with reversed magnet). Nickel covers. All wiring will be cloth pushback. CTS audio taper, solid shaft, 500K pots with .047µF Orange Drop capacitor.

    Binding is cream.

    Schaller strap locks. Electrosocket input with Switchcraft jack.

    Neck is from Warmoth. It is modern style, 21 frets, made of bloodwood with ebony (black option, no streaks) fingerboard. No finish required for either wood. It has a double acting truss rod. Frets are stainless 6105. No inlays on fingerboard, just white side dots. Graphtech nut is 1.625 width. Neck curve is compound radius from 10-16". Profile is Magic (their slimmest option.) Drilled for staggered Schaller M6 locking mini tuners. Hoping that the staggering will preclude need for string trees.

    All hardware is polished stainless or solid nickel, no chrome except for Fender trem. All except the trem is Callaham made hardware.

    Trem cover on back is being made from the piece of Cherry cut out for the spring cavity.

    Body finish will be Cherry Red dye (darkened to match the bloodwood neck) and no finish on neck or fingerboard. I had never heard of bloodwood, but here is a Warmoth picture. Click image for larger version

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    Obviously, the image below is a composite rendering from several sites of what it should resemble. Looking at around 2 months to get here and have my local luthier assemble and adjust it. I am very excited about this. Wish it was here today.

    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    a work of art.. I'm guessing it will not be road worn

    Comment


    • Axisplayer
      Axisplayer commented
      Editing a comment
      Errr..... no. If it comes in with any sign of relicing, it will be an insurance claim. LOL!

  • #3
    I don't care for the p/g - if it were me I would either leave it off or make it black. Otherwise, pretty cool

    Comment


    • Axisplayer
      Axisplayer commented
      Editing a comment
      Thanks Freeman. The PG is the one thing I keep going back and forth on. Not sure about black, but not sure about even having one. I specified that the top would not be drilled for a PG, and all wiring routing hidden, That way, when it came in I could just see it in person and decide if I liked it plain or not. I may leave it off.

  • #4
    Originally posted by Freeman Keller View Post
    I don't care for the p/g - if it were me I would either leave it off or make it black. Otherwise, pretty cool
    Seems like a clear pickguard would be an option. Anyway, it's the trem I'm having trouble getting my head around.
    Official HCAG “Theory-Challenged Hack”
    Member of the IBANEZ ACOUSTIC ASSASSINS
    Proud Member of The Alvarez Alliance
    Member of the Schecter Society
    Person-2-Person on the Web

    Comment


    • Axisplayer
      Axisplayer commented
      Editing a comment
      Thats my favorite part of the guitar, and also what made me decide I had to build it, not buy it. Never like Bigsby trems much and thats all I ever see on Teles. But if we all liked the same thing, sure would be a dull life. ;-)
      Last edited by Axisplayer; 02-01-2018, 10:44 PM.

  • #5
    So here is a poll. Which one do you like guys? There are lots of variations in having or not having PUP rings and the color, binding color, and PG color. I just hit some hilites here to get a general feel.


    #1
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    #2
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    #3
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    #4
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    #5 -OTHER (and you can suggest something to me.)

    Last edited by Axisplayer; 02-01-2018, 10:31 PM.

    Comment


  • #6
    Its going to be a stunning guitar whatever you do. I personally don't need or care for pickguards. When I do use them I try to make them part of the overall color scheme - binding, p/g, pickup rings, maybe even knobs - all the same. The cream binding looks good, I would also consider black (one really cool option might be to bind it in ebony to match the f/b, then use ebony rings. I guess of all the options shown I'd personally go for no p/g and cream rings.

    The nice thing about that is you aren't committed (until you drill holes). Grant was convinced he wanted a black p/g on his barncaster until he saw pictures - then, like me, he chose to not cover the wood.

    I'm not familiar with that bridge but if you haven't committed consider the Kahler. I was totally impressed by the one I installed for a customer. I does require a locking nut - you can have Warmoth route that to save you the effort. It also eliminated the cavity in the back.

    Also on Grant's guitar he spec'd Gotoh locking tuners - also hoping he wouldn't need trees. He does.

    Another consideration is to move the volume control to the front position on the plate - some like it, some don't

    Keep us updated - this is going to be a great guitar.

    Comment


    • #7
      Freeman, thanks for the kind words. After I saw the option I posted above, I considered using black binding or using wood binding. Interestingly enough, Stewmac had Bloodwood binding which would match the neck (and therefore disappear somewhat) but I didn't see Ebony although I could probably find some. I had NOT even considered that and the rings to match. I like that thought. I HAD considered having my luthier make a custom ebony PG, but not the rings and binding.Thanks!

      I thought I might still need string trees, just was hoping not. Guess I may as well order some. LOL.

      The plate may get reversed as you suggested. I had bought of that but when I saw the Callaham plate ad, it said the volume pot is moved closer to the tone control to make it easier to work volume control and use switching. I use both more than I do tone controls. Am going to receive it today so I will decide once I see what the spacing is. I wish they offered a custom version. I would have preferred to have the switch between volume and tone, not on either end of the plate. I may ask Callaham to fabricate it for me. They do custom work on request.

      I am surprised you don't know this bridge. It is the modern Fender system from Strats as opposed to the 6 screw vintage type. I have a Strat with a Kahler system and I do love it. I also had a Flood Rose on my EBMM Axis and loved it. I went this way instead because the one negative was that if a string broke during a show, changing it was a much more time consuming event. I have never had good luck with vintage trems and tuning, but have found that this system holds tune well on Strats. I am having it blocked so that it will be a down trem only, not a floating version which has always been less stable.

      Comment


      • #8
        You can get about any wood binding that you want. Wood is much harder to bend but the horn on a tele should be reasonable to do on a hot pipe

        http://www.lmii.com/products/mostly-...s/wood-binding

        I have used these wood p/u rings - ebony, bloodwood, about anything you could want

        http://www.lmii.com/products/mostly-...e/pickup-rings

        I'm just not a tremolo guy - I've installed a couple and set up a few more. I've blocked a fair number of them. I'm an anal engineer and was particularly impressed by the Kahler - it seems to address everything that is wrong with both Fender and Floyds. However, again, you are kind of committed once you route for it

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        • #9
          I like the cream pickguard with that combination, but would definitely go chrome on the bridge. I'd probably use a Babicz or Callaham.

          It's going to be a nice guitar, that's for sure.

          Comment


          • #10
            A couple more thoughts. A 22 fret neck extends over the body at the neck pickup. With a p/g or single coil ring the end of the f/b is over the ring or guard. I don't know if it will hit a HB ring. I can/t tell from your rendering it it will be a problem or not. I did a tele with a P90 at the neck and 22 frets - it worked fine but was mounted to the cavity. I have also relieved the end of the f/b to clear rings on single coils. Just be aware.

            Another thing to be aware of - if possible get your body drilled for the neck but not the neck itself. Drill it to match the body. That gives you a hair of wiggle room to tweak the geometry if you need to. I wouldn't worry so much if both the neck and body were coming from the same place.

            Grant spec'd a Warmoth neck for his guitar - I'm very pleased with it. The frets are much better than some after market necks and you will really like the side truss rod adjuster. Good choice and well worth the money.

            Also, doing wood binding may not be the best choice - its a real hassle to bend. You might consider staying with the cream binding but using ebony HB rings to match the f/b. Assuming the rings work with the 22 frets as above.

            So many little details, but isn't it fun?

            Comment


            • Axisplayer
              Axisplayer commented
              Editing a comment
              Freeman, it is a 21 fret guitar. I didn't want the overlap because you have to loosen the neck to get a PG on/off the guitar. Thats was my thought when I stated in the original post it was a 21 fret. I do like the Warmoth neck options and that truss rod was one of the reasons I went with the modern neck as opposed to vintage. Pup rings of ebony will work since the neck is 21 fret.

              Unfortunately, the neck was already ordered and I asked for drilled. Hadn't really thought about wiggle room. Have to hope for the best now. Builder says he has an extremely good template and shouldn't be a problem. Hope he is right. Would you expect that to be an issue? I might be able to get Warmoth to change the order but would have to do that immediately. They have had the order for a few days so could have already started, but doubt it. They said originally that neck would be around 5 weeks to ship.

              The binding is becoming an issue. The builder was going to route and ll (local luthier) was going to install the binding here. Today the builder says so many variations in binding that he wants to install it to be certain about his routing and the binding going together. I would be fine with that, but was planning to dye the cherry body to get to the color of the bloodwood neck. Builder doesn't do any finish work. If I dye here, it seems like I can't let him install binding unless it is plastic. If it was wood binding, then I would have problems with dye bleed. Whats the verdict? Plastic ok to install before dye?

            • Freeman Keller
              Freeman Keller commented
              Editing a comment
              Sorry, I read your post then spaced it. 21 frets should be fine with whatever you do.

              Plastic binding and stains or colored finish is fine - you just scrape it back with a box cutter blade. Stains are a real hassle with wood or fiber binding - I'm dealing with that right now on an acoustic. I vote for cream binding = looks good in your rendering and will be easy to deal with.

              All of the other stuff you can worry about when you get the body and neck.

              The wonderful thing about Leo's designs is that necks screw to bodies with out issue. I just like a little wiggle room if I can get it but you should be fine. If the body is built with standard templates it should be OK - but do check before you screw the bridge on. Angle and standover can be shimmed (and many tele necks are)

          • #11
            My personal opinion is that Teles look naked and somewhat generic without a pickgaurd. . Of the examples shown I like #4. but a darker black pearl would be worth a look.
            Last edited by gardo; 02-02-2018, 08:01 PM.

            Comment


            • Axisplayer
              Axisplayer commented
              Editing a comment
              I agree generally. It always looks like an FMT model with no PG. I like #4 too. Shown is the Blue Shell option, but they have Black Pearl. It just didn't pop as much, but maybe thats a good thing. Let me go back and play with the design a little more and see.

          • #12
            I'll be the Odd Bird.....I like #3 best of all....Looks all business. I'd be ok without the high falutin' bridge and stick though.

            Comment


            • Axisplayer
              Axisplayer commented
              Editing a comment
              Thanks, but that trem is the only reason I ordered a custom Tele to begin with. If I didn't want that, I could have just gotten a Tele off the shelf somewhere. ;-). Thanks for the vote on #3 though.

            • Freeman Keller
              Freeman Keller commented
              Editing a comment
              #3 would be my choice behind ebony rings. I'd like to see a rendering with the ebony neck in place.

          • #13
            I'm going to further muddy the waters by going with #5: Tortoise. Split the difference between a pickguard and none. That said, I don't care for #2 cream/ivory at all.
            Official HCAG “Theory-Challenged Hack”
            Member of the IBANEZ ACOUSTIC ASSASSINS
            Proud Member of The Alvarez Alliance
            Member of the Schecter Society
            Person-2-Person on the Web

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            • #14
              Originally posted by gardo View Post
              My personal opinion is that Teles look naked and somewhat generic without a pickgaurd. . Of the examples shown I like #4. but a darker black pearl would be worth a look.
              Here are the only other choices worth consideration I think. I was actually surprised that the red pearl didn't look bad on the red body. The black pearl does look good, the silver pearl is a muted version od the blue shell I started with, and I sort of like the vintage pearl because it picks up the flavor of the creme binding and ties it together.

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              Last edited by Axisplayer; 02-02-2018, 11:52 PM.

              Comment


              • #15
                Hmm. Okay, since you apparently don't care for regular tortoise I like the silver pearl.
                Official HCAG “Theory-Challenged Hack”
                Member of the IBANEZ ACOUSTIC ASSASSINS
                Proud Member of The Alvarez Alliance
                Member of the Schecter Society
                Person-2-Person on the Web

                Comment


                • Axisplayer
                  Axisplayer commented
                  Editing a comment
                  You know, I do like the regular and the yellow tortoise. The regular just seemed slightly dark for an already dark guitar. The yellow option above I like a little more though. The reason I didn't mention more about it was that the edge is square and not beveled for whatever reason. Some were available either way, but some were square only, and I think I want a beveled edge for whatever reason. My problem with this entire project has become some details are tough because of too many choices. I like most all of them for one reason or another.

                  I just told my builder that I was gonna be stuck with this guitar project forever. It seems like almost no one agrees on all these details, so I might well be the only guy that will like this guitar when it is finished. My family will never be able to sell it when I die.
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