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Washburn


rpgdude

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Please help I hate my Geo, I found this local for only $60 washburn WI16BOBG1, when it was new it listed for $399 its a little banged up but works perfectly, is it a better guitar then an ibanez gio?

"washburn WI16 description"

Basswood body

Gloss finish

Single cutaway

Tun-o-matic bridge

 

Stop tailpiece

Rosewood fingerboard with dot inlays

Bolt on maple

neck

Chrome die cast tuners

2 humbucking pickups

2 volume, 2 tone

controls

3 way toggle switch

Adjustable truss rod

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Define better? Does it sound better? That's what YOUR ears are for. Does it feel better? Again, that's what YOUR hands are for. I've never played a Washburn in over 35 years, that I wanted. But for 60 bucks, it's a no brainer.

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It holds a tune for about 30 minutes of playing and a setup / intonation for about two weeks. I bought it new about a year ago for 125 bucks. I had an Aria Pro II I think it was the CS-350 I had got for 300 in the 90s. it got smashed at a party and I tossed it in anger not knowing how good it was "idiot with a temper" and now I dont have the funds to replace it so im just trying to find something I dont hate until I have more $$$$

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I owned a Washburn A-10 back in the 80's. It was a fine guitar, very well built. The Falcons made in the 70's were built as well as any Gibson made too.

 

Washburn went to making low cost mass produced guitars in the 90's/2000's and sacrificed quality for quantity. Think they made some branded guitars too. I quit buying strings in music stores once I could buy them on line so I lost track of how good they're builds were.

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Heavier isn't automatically better or worse. Most guitarists these days tend to like lighter-weight instruments, but what really matters is the way the guitar vibrates and resonates. You can play it unplugged and get an idea of that. As far as the frets, they should be even and smooth and polished, with no rough edges or gritty feeling on the top of them when you bend a string.

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$60 seems like a good deal but only if the guitar doesn't have any issues. A ''cheap'' guitar can easily become a money pit: New tuners, a nut, switches, pots, labor (even if you DIY there's your time and the frustration factor) can all add up. Without seeing the guitar I can't say whether it's worth it or not.

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Wow, my apologies, I didn't realize I was being pompous. I kinda assumed that once owning a quality guitar, before the "idiot fit", you would have remembered what quality felt like. Again, my sincerest apologies for assuming.

 

Ok, I will keep the words small, so it doesn't come off as pompous, ok?

 

Your analogy, I mean, idea, of tapping the guitar like a watermelon is good. Put the guitar to your ear, and tap it. Does it have a little ring, or a dull thud? If it thuds, it's probably not very good. Do you hear any non-musical rattles? Again, if you do, not good. Look at the sides of the guitar from all angles. Do you see seams? The fewer the better. Look at where the bridge and tailpiece studs are attached to the body. Are they snug and flat? If they have an edge or two that looks like they are lifting, it may need to be addressed by a professional. Shake the guitar a bit. Again, do you hear things that rattle? Might be a simple case of tightening some screws, or a more serious problem. If in doubt, walk away. Now, let's look at the neck joint.

 

Since it's a bolt on, does it look nice and tight? Does it have any gaps between the neck and the body? If so, not good quality. Look at the frets like Phil suggested. Are they roundish on the top? or Flat, or have divots in them? If something like the last two, it may need some fret work, which could be more then the price of the guitar. Are the frets pressed properly into the wood? meaning no gaps between the metal and the wood. If there are gaps, put the guitar down and walk away. Again, the repair might be more then the guitar is worth. Look at the joint where the neck attaches to the body. See any cracks? this is common with bolt on guitars, but if you press against the neck, and you can see the cracks open a bit, walk away, it's serious. The fret board itself.... Is the wood smooth, tight grained, full of color? Or open pored, very plain, and rough? This is a sign of quality.

 

If the guitar has strings on it, strum it, and try to bend a neck a bit. Does it change pitch rapidly, or does it take some effort? It might be a simple case of the neck screws being a bit loose. Look at the nut. more then likely it's cheap plastic, but are there crack in the neck around the nut? if there are cracks, once again, walk away. Any kind of cracks around the headstock? The screws in the tuners? Most of the time, this is a bad sign. When you move the tuners, are they smooth? Or do they feel loose and/or gritty feeling. If the latter, I mean the last 2, it's easy to buy and replace them.

Look down the neck. Does there fret board look flat? Does it have a hump, or a downward curve? the first one is good, the other two, may require a truss rod adjustment. if you don't know how to adjust the truss rod, have a professional do it. If it has both, like an "S" shape, walk away.

 

Now time to plug it into an amp. Do the pots/knobs feel smooth? Are they scratchy sounding? Or do they feel loose and, well, cheap. Again, it's a simple fix for someone who knows how to do a guitars electronics. But, may cost more then the 60 bucks you are willing to spend. does the switch work? Is it quick, meaning it moves quickly from position to position, or does it feel soft and spongy? Again, a simple fix for a tech to replace. Do both pickups work? Do the knobs do what they are supposed to do? On this, it relies on your judgment. same with the sound of the pickups. yopu may like them, others may hate them, so again, it's up to your ears to decide.

 

This all may seem overly basic, but whether it's a $60 guitar. or a $6,000 one, I do all of these things.

 

I hope that helps, and that I wasn't overly pompous in my explanation.

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I'm going to repeat my comment on your other thread. Read very carefully what Badpenguin just posted, then thank him.

 

OK, some comments

 

- I have no experience with any of the four guitars you are talking about, therefore I will offer no opinions. However, several people whose opinions I value highly have put all of these guitars in the "budget" category. That usually means that costs were cut, some quality was compromised. I would listen to my fellow forumites - they have a lot of collective experience.

 

- I do have a fairly good handle on what can go wrong with a guitar and what it costs to fix it. BP has touched on much of it but I would be happy to share my thoughts too

 

- Your attitude does show. The first post of your other thread introduced yourself to the forum. Maybe you thought you needed to impress us or something - it didn't mr. I think you'll find that your questions are respected and responded to better if you loose that 'tude.

 

- Lastly, it might help us better understand what you are looking for if you tell us why you hate your Geo, about the music you play and what you are looking for in your next guitar. Maybe your experience in evaluating them (or lack of, we won't hold that against you). Maybe a little more about yourself

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$60 is a fair price considering structural issues check out.

 

Without starting a never-ending debate, as far as "thumping" and such, I have a franken-strat that is a combination 80's Squier E-Series neck on a 90's plywood Hondo body loaded with Mojotone '50's custom wound boutique pickups. Plywood body is heavy and fails the "thump" and "vibration" tests hands-down, yet everyone who plays it can't put it down - they insist it is one of the nicest playing and sounding strat's they've held.

 

That guitar is basically a Washburn version of a Les Paul. It'll be on-par with a higher-end Epiphone as one measure of quality to expect. If you like the way it feels and plays, even if you have to change the machines, pickups, bridge and electronics you're still getting a lot for your money

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Thanks all, Im getting it. 1001gear said he would get it just for the cut out and that got me to thinking. Ive worked with wood all my life, I have the tools and know how to restore it plus I can upgrade the electronics over time. Its scratched up bad but the wood underneath is good and it plays fine. Im going to sand her down and do a custom paint job, Ill put up some before and after pictures asap. Thanks again.

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Im not exactly sure what your problem is and I dont really care. I would however like you to know that at no time have I been angry about anything you have said, but you cant tell tone in text. I have been playing around because I enjoy sarcastic back and forth. This comment however is not sarcastic, but simply insulting. I now realize that even after my apology you have remained serious so Im going to try and end this again. You took my first reply as though you calling the guitars bottom feeders offended me somehow, I assure you that is not the case as I already knew they are low end, I simply wanted you to know it was useless information that had zero to do with my question. I even apologized for the misunderstanding but, you continued to be what I took as sarcastic and so I responded with sarcasm. Any way, I deleted all my responses to you as I believe we got off on the wrong foot due to a simple misunderstanding fallowed by more misunderstandings. Now at the risk of looking like a wuss I apologize for these misunderstandings and for calling you pompous. Again I ask you to get over it and lets move on.

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In my eyes, there's nothing to move on from. My replies have only be honest and straight to the point. However, once you start using words that translates in a series of asterisks, of course you are going to get some kind of like reply, minus the asterisks. In this forum, respect gets respect. if something said doesn't make sense, or jive with what you want to know, ask for clarification, It will gladly be given.

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A little late to the party, but I like washburns & have a couple including a Hawk (Yamaki, not Matsumoku) and A20V. I played a few W164s about 15 years ago looking for a Les Paul type, and they were OK but very distinctly NOT like a Les Paul. Well worth grabbing for $60 as long as there are no issues like warps or cracks. It won't be a *great* guitar, but I'd be happy to gig one.

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