1991 Peavey Predator Upgrades - Help

[fithwillian]

Hi all,

 

Long time lurker - first time posting here. Love this forum, such a wealth of good information.

 

As the thread title indicates, I picked up a 1991 Predator (script logo) last week for the bargain price of $40 from a seller on Craigslist. I had never played one before, but I've read many times that these are great guitars for the price (especially $40). I bought it with the intent of learning how to take a guitar apart, put it back together with upgraded equipment and have a nice, playable guitar, all without breaking the bank. To be clear, I have never done this before, so please excuse any errors in the following questions.

 

I searched the web and read just about every single forum/article I could find on the 90's Predators. What I gathered was:

- Tuners need replaced.

- Trem needs replaced.

- Nut needs replaced.

- Opinions are pretty mixed in regards to the stock pick ups. However, since I want to learn to do upgrades on my own, I've decided to replace them.

- Other electronics/switches COULD be replaced, but not necessarily a requirement. I've decided to do so, in the interest of learning.

- The body is solid poplar. (mine has a maple cap)

- The neck is great.

 

All that said, I have compiled a list of parts that I am planning to pick up for the guitar. I was hoping that someone here might be able to chime in with cheaper/better alternatives to my choices. Also, if you see I'm missing something (remember, I have no idea what I'm doing, LOL) please let me know. Finally, I just want to be sure that I've thought of everything that I will need.

 

Tuners - Wilkinson WJ55

link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Wilkinson-WJ55-Tuners-for-Fender-Stratocaster-Telecaster-etc-guitars-/111713629824

 

Bridge/Trem - Wilkinson WV6-SB

link: http://dragonfireguitars.com/Strat-Trem-System-Wilkinson-51-USA-Bridge-WV6-SB-Color-Choice-10299.htm?categoryId=-1

 

Nut - Graph Tech Tusq XL Fender-style Slotted Nut

link: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PQL-5000-00?adpos=1o1&creative=55397627521&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&product_id=PQL-5000-00&gclid=CjwKEAjw9_jJBRCXycSarr3csWcSJABthk07QgkObAwr2lW7uOB7xDCg4DuPY0eZJHvYXmrk4UdGBRoCPUPw_wcB

 

Output Jack - Switchcraft Output Jack + Jackplate

link: http://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Components_and_Parts/Jacks/Switchcraft_Output_Jack.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2017-06-gp&gclid=CjwKEAjw9_jJBRCXycSarr3csWcSJABthk07MEeBOur_-WYEtu3BYsT7lZuPv32VWUStZdWshrACyBoCutPw_wcB

 

Pots - CTS Control Pots, 250K, Split Shaft

link: http://www.stewmac.com/Pickups_and_Electronics/Components_and_Parts/Potentiometers/CTS_Control_Pots.html

 

Pickups - GFS 1963 Strat Vintage Wound Professional Pickup Set

link: http://www.guitarfetish.com/1963-Strat-Vintage-Wound-Professional-Pickup-Set_p_2093.html

 

Pickguard - Strat Pickguard SSS, 3 Ply, BWB

link: http://dragonfireguitars.com/Strat-Pickguard-SSS-3-Ply-Black-White-Black-34302.htm

 

Blade Switch - Dragonfire Fender Custom Shop 5-Way Switch

link: http://dragonfireguitars.com/Fender-Custom-Shop-Switch-Lever-Blade-Switch-3-4-or-5-Way-20010.htm

 

 

Beyond that, I will also be purchasing knobs and a switch tip, but those are pretty self-explanatory. Does it seem like I've got all the bases covered? Any information/guidance would be very appreciated.

 

 

 

 

[Phil O'Keefe]

First of all, welcome!

 

I'm not an expert on Predators unfortunately, so I can't say for sure if all of your parts will fit on one or not. I've done enough mods and builds that I know you can run into problems with things like the width of switch screw placement holes and pickguard / body screws not lining up, bushings for tuners not fitting, or the screw holes not matching up, etc. etc. so my advice to you would be to make sure that the parts you have are compatible with the ones you want to use for repair / replacement.

 

[fithwillian]

Appreciate the response, Phil.

 

I wasn't clear enough in my original post. I am 99% sure that all of these parts are compatible with the Predator. My question is really just - am I missing any components that should be on a strat (or strat clone, in my case)?

[fithwillian]

For instance - I have seen the words "orange drop caps" thrown around in a lot of forums, however, I have no idea what that means or if they are a necessity?

[badpenguin]

A necessity? No. A slightly better choice, yes. They are a capacitor that some say, give that "magic mojo" on your tone control. I've used them, and used cheap made in China copies, and really don't see a difference. Other then price of course.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262910019234?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

the trem is a good choice, since it allows for differences in screw holes. Besides, Wilkinson makes a good trem for not a lot of cash.

The output jack is a bit of overkill, but it does come with the plate. The only issue I foresee is the obvious one.... the pick guard. May look similar, but trust me, you may have to trim a bit to get it to fit right. And you can save a few bucks by this one here.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/A74-Replacment-Strat-Standard-Style-Guitar-Pick-Guard-3ply-Black-/221779439310?hash=item33a315aece:g:InQAAOSwl8NVXlAx

Hope this helps.

[DeepEnd]

For instance - I have seen the words "orange drop caps" thrown around in a lot of forums' date=' however, I have no idea what that means or if they are a necessity?[/quote']

Orange Drop capacitors are used in the tone control circuit. Here's an example:

 

 

They're very good, in terms of being made to strict tolerances, and relatively expensive but "expensive" is relative. In this case it means $3-4 vs. less than a buck for a generic capacitor. You can read more here: http://www.gibson.com/News-Lifestyle/Features/en-us/Orange-Drops-Busting-Tone-Control-Capacitor-Myths.aspx. Whether you'll be able to hear the difference is debatable but heck, it's only a few bucks.

One more thing I'd add is that you'll need to either take the guitar to a pro or invest in a set of nut files. I put a TUSQ nut in a Fernandes Strat and the nut slots were nowhere near deep enough.

[jtr654]

If you bought all your parts listed it would be about $150 . Play the guitar and check how it sounds before messing with it. Save the $150 for a guitar you really want. Just remember that if you mess up you'll probably have to take it to a Tech and with all the thing on your list it would at least double the price of the parts to get it working.

[DeepEnd]

I'm not sure why this is addressed to me instead of the OP. I simply answered as to what Orange Drop caps are and warned him about needing nut files. He isn't likely to ''mess up'' most of the stuff he's proposing, although anything's possible.

[jtr654]

Sorry Deep it wasn't to be addressed to you sorry. My computer for some reason had this website all screwed up I thought I was answering Fithwillian?

 

[Freeman Keller]

Like Phil, I am not familiar with that guitar, but I do get to work on lots of different ones and the only way to learn is to dive in and do it. Some things you might run into -

 

- I would measure the tuners on yours and just make sure the barrels and bushings will work. They probably will, most Strat style tuners have the same diameter. The mounting screws may or may not hit the holes - no biggie, fill and redrill. The square Willinsons will not have the same footprint - you probably will have a ghost line from the old ones. You might also consider locking tuners or ones with variable length shafts.

 

- Bridge/trem - again, may or may not fit, you'll learn a lot if it doesn't. I always try to find manufactures spec drawings (often at suppliers or manufacturers site) and make sure. All the spec are on your link - just take your calipers and check your guitar.

 

- nut - I rarely see a premade nut that will drop in and be perfect. If you really want to learn you'll follow DE's advice and customize it. While you are working with the nut and bridge you should check the frets - they are 25 year old and probably need dressing or even replacement. Don't put a lot of effort into a guitar with bad frets - fix 'em now. You'll also use this opportunity to learn about relief, nut clearance, action height, intonation and all the other aspects of playability. In my humble opinion that is a lot more important than changing a lot of parts.

 

- as was suggested, the p/g may or may not fit. Consider making a new one that does. All of the electronics are fine - if you are going to rewire then new parts are much easier to work with. Orange drop (of bumble bee) caps are a nice way to spend more money - blind listening tests indicate that they are no better than plain old disc ceramics, but I've got to admit that I use them anyway. Remember that split shaft pot work with push on knobs - if you want set screws use solid shafts.

 

Have fun, if you run into any snags give a holler.

[Freeman Keller]

Another thought (actually a couple more thoughts). Add this to your shopping list

 

http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Books/Guitar_Building_and_Repair_and_Setup_Books/Guitar_Player_Repair_Guide.html

 

There are others but this covers about anything you'll want to do. My dog eared copy sits on my bench and you will really appreciate it when it comes time to set up your trem.

 

Also think about the tools you will need and the skills you have. For instance, to do any electronic work (and basically you're talking about completely rewiring) you'll need a little soldering iron, a sucker or wick, solder (get the smallest diameter electronics solder that you can find), wire cutters and strippers (very small gauges) and the knowledge of how to use them. My son happens to be a licensed electrician but when it comes to soldering he brings his guitars to me. If you know how to do it, fine, if you don't plan on practicing.

 

You'll need all the usual setup tools - straightedges, measuring tools, probably fret and nut files, plus screw drivers and allen wrenches. You'll need a good tuner to set your intonation, possibly a multimeter to check electronic things.

 

Your shopping list is quite a few places - remember that most of these will add 8 or 10 bucks of shipping to anything you order. Consider consolidating them to as few locations as possible. I order lots of things from StewMac but I always keep a list going so they will all ship in the same box. StewMac tools are expensive but very good, and much of my hardware comes from them.

 

While you have the p/g off consider shielding the cavity if it isn't already. If you do shield make sure your cavity is deep enough that the switch or something doesn't short out (ask me how I know).

 

I think what you are doing is great and its certainly the way to learn. Just be realistic about both the guitar, your abilities and what you expect of it. Your investment in tools now will pay off in the long run if you decide to continue and there are a number of folks here that will be happy to help you as you make this journey.

[Grant Harding]

Don't mess with all of that. You can buy this and just drop it in. Even if you don't like the guitar you'll be able to transfer it to any Strat you want. They're better pickups too.

 

http://www.fralinpickups.com/product/customizable-prewired-strat-pickguard/

 

[DeepEnd]

Don't mess with all of that. You can buy this and just drop it in. Even if you don't like the guitar you'll be able to transfer it to any Strat you want. They're better pickups too.

 

http://www.fralinpickups.com/product/customizable-prewired-strat-pickguard/

For that matter, Dragonfire, where he's buying his pickguard, sells ''loaded'' ones in various pickup configurations for about half what Fralin charges. Not saying they're as good as Fralin--the pickups are generic Artecs--but from what I've heard they're okay for the price.

[Grant Harding]

For that matter, Dragonfire, where he's buying his pickguard, sells ''loaded'' ones in various pickup configurations for about half what Fralin charges. Not saying they're as good as Fralin--the pickups are generic Artecs--but from what I've heard they're okay for the price.

 

Definitely a more appropriate option for the requirement.

 

Getting a prewired one that's been put together by a pro is a no-brainer for me though, whatever the grade. You can sell it and just swap in an upgrade if needed, nice and clean.

[Freeman Keller]

 

Definitely a more appropriate option for the requirement.

 

Getting a prewired one that's been put together by a pro is a no-brainer for me though, whatever the grade. You can sell it and just swap in an upgrade if needed, nice and clean.

 

 

Hey, guys, he says in his first post that he bought this with the idea of learning how to take a guitar apart, up grade parts and put it back together. A loaded pick guard will teach him nothing. I happen to think what he is doing is an excellent way to learn - the guitar was cheap, he'll learn a lot with each of the things he plans to do and most of them are pretty harmless. If he buys Earlewine's book and asks the right questions here I think he'll do alright.

[Grant Harding]

Understood - it teaches him nothing about guitar wiring.

 

I think for a beginner in terms of modifying guitars the bridge, nut, tuners, output jack, and set-up will provide a fun and quick challenge without the pain (and risk to the result) of all that soldering.

[badpenguin]

Soldering, and the inevitable burning, is part of the learning process Grant.

[Grant Harding]

haha - I get no joy from soldering for some reason. "Is that smoke coming from the capacitor?"

[sammyreynolds01]

My Peavey is over 20 yrs old and the only thing I've ever done was put in new pickups. I put in a EMG SA pickguard and haven't been disappointed. You will to mod it for the new trem. Predator trems are a 4 screw vintage style trem.

[Freeman Keller]

A long time ago I pretended to be a bicycle racer and of course I had to build my own bike frames. At that time they were special steel tubing with lugs (yes, I cut my initials in the lugs with a Dremel tool). Anyway, I was trying to learn to braze the delicate tubing (also know as "silver soldering" which segues to another thread about fret repair) so I was practicing where I work on some scrap. One of the really good welders told me to keep practicing as I was watching silver alloy brazing rod at 2 dollars an inch rapidly melting away.

 

Sorry for the drift, you will now be returned to your regularly scheduled soldering session....

[Freeman Keller]

I wondered why he wanted to replace the bridge and trem but figured as long as he took careful measurements to make sure the new one was the same there wasn't any harm. And every budding guitar tech needs to learn to set up a trem...

[sammyreynolds01]

I agree. He's just gonna have to modify it a little bit.

[DeepEnd]

I don't ''enjoy'' soldering either but I agree it's a skill worth learning. I simply pointed out that there are cheaper options than Grant's $300+ Fralin.

[fithwillian]

Hey guys, sorry I've been away for a couple of days. Pleasantly surprised to see so many responses. Going to try to address everyone.

 

Freeman - thank you so much for all the information. I'm not going to respond to each of your points, just be aware that I've taken stock of everything you said and if I run into any problems, I will certainly reach out for clarification. Ordering that book, as well!

 

Regarding Loaded Pickguards - I definitely see the value there, but as I mentioned originally, this project is mostly for me to learn about electric guitars. I've played acoustic fingerstyle for the last 15 years and just picked up an electric again. I quickly realized I'm not very well versed in all things electric guitar. This will be a fun and challenging way to get more acquainted with them. I appreciate the recommedations though!

 

Regarding the bridge and then - the Wilkinson I listed earlier, according to everything I've read, will only require me to add a couple more holes for 2 extra screw holes. I also read that Predators from this era had some issues with the strings being off center on the fret board and the high e tended to slip off the edge of the fretboard. Mine does not appear to be affected by this problem, however, I will take great care in making sure when the new one gets dropped in, everything is perfectly centered.

 

I've continued to read and research this process. I am aware that I might have to dowel and fill some holes, add some new holes, etc. For me, that's the exciting part! I've loved music a long time, this is the next logical step in my journey.

 

I appreciate all the responses! I will be sure to keep this thread updated as I make progress on the guitar. Have a great day!

[Freeman Keller]

If I can make one humble comment before you start - take the time to measure everything on your guitar - all of the action parameters (relief, nut slots, action, saddle locations, intonation), string space to the edges of the fretboard (both ends), height of the trem plate, number of springs and their locations, heights of the pickups, even the gauges of the strings that are on it when you take the measurements. Take some photos of the trem and anything else you might want to refer to later. I assume the guitar is playable right now - write down anything that you note about the way it plays - buzzes, problems bending (I like to mark problem frets with a magic marker as well as noting them in my spreadsheet).

 

As far as the string spacing on the neck - that might be due to the neck being off center in the pocket. Lay a long straight edge on each side of the neck and see where it hits the bridge and the pickups. Also obviously the neck angle works in conjunction with the trem and saddle heights - make sure that you have enough travel with the adjusting screws to get the action you want.

 

It sounds like a great project and we're here to help if you have any questions.