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Just got my new Squier Mustang in Cool Blue or Sonic Blue something like that. Will send more pictures if I get a cellphone, but here's a few I took last night. I've heard the bridge is kind of bad on it, So I'll have to replace that. We was talking either loctite or just get a new modified bridge. It just looks like a few phillips head screws so I think I can tackle that, and put a Modified Mustang bridge on it myself I believe. See what you guy's think though. It's bad lighting I know, but my bedroom light sucks.

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Is the bridge damaged because its used or are you just guessing by what you've red on forums?

 

I've found most fender stuff on cheaper models is good for awhile while its new. I wouldn't go trading it out until you know for a fact its giving you problems. There can also be allot of items that simply need some tweaking to make it work flawlessly.

 

Getting the crappy factory strings off there is always a must. Lubing the nut and possibly the fulcrum with some nice Teflon grease can do wondrous things in making a guitar play great. A guitar does need to be played quite a bit before you know where any tweaks are needed. After the first set of strings or two you should note any intonation tweaks needed, Truss usually needs to be tweaked, pickups adjusted etc.

I wouldn't even think of messing with hardware until its actually giving you a problem. A whammy is after the bridge and isn't going to make it sound better. If its not staying in tune then tweaking the springs for your string gauge and breaking in that nut should be all it needs.

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Glad to see everything worked out for you. The exchange process didn't take too long Sonic blue is the best color too good choice .I hope it was worth the wait.I agree that you should play it for a while before you change the bridge.. Everyone has a different playing style maybe the bridge will be fine. If you do change it be sure to take a good look at everything and write down all measurements before you start.

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Is the bridge damaged because its used or are you just guessing by what you've red on forums?

 

I've found most fender stuff on cheaper models is good for awhile while its new. I wouldn't go trading it out until you know for a fact its giving you problems. There can also be allot of items that simply need some tweaking to make it work flawlessly.

 

Getting the crappy factory strings off there is always a must. Lubing the nut and possibly the fulcrum with some nice Teflon grease can do wondrous things in making a guitar play great. A guitar does need to be played quite a bit before you know where any tweaks are needed. After the first set of strings or two you should note any intonation tweaks needed, Truss usually needs to be tweaked, pickups adjusted etc.

I wouldn't even think of messing with hardware until its actually giving you a problem. A whammy is after the bridge and isn't going to make it sound better. If its not staying in tune then tweaking the springs for your string gauge and breaking in that nut should be all it needs.

 

I've only read that on all forums, and reviews of the guitar. That the saddles cause a buzzing noise in all the guitar's from where I guess there cheaply made, but I will take your advice and wait to see if that happens to me

 

 

And LovetheClassics, Kind of laziness on my part ,but I haven't even been able to amp it up yet. I live in ghetto ass apartments so If I go playing guitar through the amp, my happy ass will be sent packing from noise complaints. I'm going to have to test it out at my Moms' next time I go out there, thats' where my amp is at actually. I hate being in apartments, Can't play my guitar without somebody complaining

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There's plenty of low volume amps out there that won't bother neighbors or other household members. I leave my large amps where our band practices, but for home use I have a little Vox DA-5 that I use when the inspiration hits me.

 

I'm sure there's a lot of other options too depending on your funds...

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Is the bridge damaged because its used or are you just guessing by what you've red on forums?

 

 

The Squier Mustangs use a bridge saddle design that is similar to those used on the Jaguar and Jazzmaster, which have a pair of height adjustment screws that are fairly notorious for vibrating loose and going out of position. That leads to issues with action height and rattles. The commonly used solutions are to either set up the stock guitar, then apply some BLUE Loctite (NEVER use RED!) to the screws to prevent them from coming loose until you want them to, or replacing the saddles with ones of a different design. Many Jazz / Jag owners like to use original USA Mustang saddles as replacements, but the issue for the OP is that such saddles won't work on a Squier - the USA and Squier Mustangs have a different fingerboard radius - 7.25" on the vintage USA Mustangs, and 9.5" on the Squier, so the old Mustang saddles won't work correctly on a Squier.

 

However, Warmoth makes an adjustable Mustang style bridge with adjustable saddles, and there are other places that sell suitable saddles that improve on those used in the Squier too.

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Just got my new Squier Mustang in Cool Blue or Sonic Blue something like that. Will send more pictures if I get a cellphone, but here's a few I took last night.

 

Congratulations on your Sonic Blue Mustang! :philthumb:

 

I'm a big fan of the Fender 24" scale guitars like the Mustang. Here's my Duo Sonic II, Musicmaster II and Mustang.

 

 

AllThreeShortscales1.jpg

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The Squier Mustangs use a bridge saddle design that is similar to those used on the Jaguar and Jazzmaster, which have a pair of height adjustment screws that are fairly notorious for vibrating loose and going out of position. That leads to issues with action height and rattles. The commonly used solutions are to either set up the stock guitar, then apply some BLUE Loctite (NEVER use RED!) to the screws to prevent them from coming loose until you want them to, or replacing the saddles with ones of a different design. Many Jazz / Jag owners like to use original USA Mustang saddles as replacements, but the issue for the OP is that such saddles won't work on a Squier - the USA and Squier Mustangs have a different fingerboard radius - 7.25" on the vintage USA Mustangs, and 9.5" on the Squier, so the old Mustang saddles won't work correctly on a Squier.

 

However, Warmoth makes an adjustable Mustang style bridge with adjustable saddles, and there are other places that sell suitable saddles that improve on those used in the Squier too.

 

Well phil it's been a few months and I can hear the buzzing in the bridge saddles so taking your advice would using the blue loctite be just as good as putting in a new warmoth bridge they make for squier mustangs? And if I got the loctite what do I apply it to exactly and what steps do I have to take to put it on the saddles to make them stop buzzing cause I've never did that before? I'm trying to go the cheapest route, but I don't want the buzzing to come back since I took the cheap route you know what I mean

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Congratulations on your Sonic Blue Mustang! :philthumb:

 

I'm a big fan of the Fender 24" scale guitars like the Mustang. Here's my Duo Sonic II, Musicmaster II and Mustang.

 

 

AllThreeShortscales1.jpg

 

Loving your guitars too. I love the mustang look , I just has a look to it that I love. Thanks for sharing

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Thanks! :o

 

Do you know how I would have to loctite those saddles step by step. Like would I have to take off the bridge or do I leave it on, or anything I'm missing. Sorry for all the questions, but I've never messed with guitar repair at all, and have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to that

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Maybe its just me but I never see these in the UK. Not in local bands hands or hanging on the music store wall. I just dont come accross them. Shame as I would like to try one.

 

You do get them Knotty, the either Vintage Modified or Classic Vibe Mustang was a big seller over the past few years, and don't appear on the used market often so I'm guessing everybody is keeping them

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