Digitec RP150

[WRGKMC]

I bought one of these today for $25 which included free shipping http://www.musiciansfriend.com/amplifiers-effects/digitech-rp150-guitar-multi-effects-pedal

It was an impulse buy. The thing that drew me to pull the trigger was it has a built in interface for recording and uploading presets. I have a full recording setup in my studio and a couple of extra DAW setups, but I thought this might eliminate some of the bulk.

 

I have a DAW set up next to my recliner in the living room. I often doodle around practicing and when I come up with an idea I like to record it quickly so I don't forget it. Right now I have a small mixer setup on that one so I can multitrack but its overkill and takes up too much space. I should be able to record guitar and drums with this one via USB on that computer to sonar and then when I have something worthwhile I can save the project to a USB stick and take it into the studio for more serious work. I had several ideas come up recently where I wrote them down just so I wouldn't forget them. Its much easier to just plug in and record them.

 

I've never been a fan of Digitec even though I do own several pieces of gear.

This one does list quite a few drive and amp model features. If they are any good at all I can probably find a few to use.

The unit does have Digitec Whammy and Leslie Chorus, and auto panner that might be fun to fool with. Its even got pickup modeling to get single and HB tones, 15 effects and 15 effect combinations.

 

Like I said I'm not a fan of digitec and these all in one units consisting of building patches aren't exactly fun to tinker with.

Still for the price it may be worth it. I could blow $25 on a couple of drinks in a club. I can always resell it for what I paid for it or use it as

an expensive door stop. The effects plus the tones below may have a few that sound OK recorded. I like doing some of this stuff prior to tracking

because many of the plugins that do the same stuff don't pull it off very well.

 

 

Distortion models

 

Based on an Ibanez® TS-9

Based on a DOD® 250 Overdrive/Preamp

Based on a Pro Co RATTM

Based on a Boss® DS-1TM Distortion

DigiTech® Grunge

Based on a Boss MT-2 Metal Zone®

Based on a DOD Gonkulator Ring Mod

Based on an Arbiter® Fuzz FaceTM

Based on an Electro-Harmonix® Big Muff Pi®

 

Amp Model

 

Based on a ‘57 Fender® Tweed Champ®

Based on a ‘57 Fender Tweed Deluxe

Based on a ‘59 Fender Tweed Bassman®

Based on a ‘65 Fender Blackface Twin Reverb®

Based on a ‘68 Marshall® 100 Watt

Super Lead (plexi)

Based on a ‘77 Marshall Master Volume

Based on an ‘83 Marshall JCM800

Based on a ‘63 Vox AC30 Top Boost

Based on a ‘69 Hiwatt® Custom 100

Based on an ‘81 Mesa Boogie® Mark II C

Based on an ‘01 Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier

Based on a ‘96 MatchlessTM HC30

DigiTech® Solo

DigiTech Metal

DigiTech Bright Clean

DigiTech Clean Tube

Dreadnaught acoustic

Direct (No Amp Model)

 

Speaker Cabinet model.

 

Based on a 1x12 ‘57 Fender® Tweed Deluxe®

Based on a 2x12 ‘65 Fender Blackface Twin Reverb®

Based on a 2x12 ‘63 Vox® AC30 Top Boost w/ Jensen® Blue Backs

Based on a 4x10 ‘59 Fender Tweed Bassman®

Based on a 4x12 Marshall® 1969 Straight w/ Celestion® G12-T70

Based on a 4x12 Johnson® Straight w/ Celestion Vintage 30’s

4x12 DigiTech® Solo

2x12 DigiTech Bright

4x12 DigiTech Metal

4x12 DigiTech Rock

4x12 DigiTech Alt Rock

4x12 DigiTech Vintage

Direct (No cabinet model

[DeepEnd]

Happy New Pedal Day. It looks like the big brother of my RP50. You got a great deal; I sold my RP50 for $20 used a couple of weeks ago. They typically go for about $20 shipped on eBay so I figured that was fair. I don't know if they've improved but most of the presets on my RP50 were worthless. A couple, Classic Blackface and Surfin', were okay but that was about it.

[Bucksstudent]

This is what I used to record my guitar/bass parts now. I've had one since 2006. It sounds great if you know how to use it, and it took me a long time to figure out what combinations work and what don't.

 

I never use the amp cabinets. I always select Direct and just keep the head model. The best clean sounds are the Twin Reverb and AC30, but you're going to get more volume and headroom from the Twin. Most of my amp settings are 6 6 6, as if they're all on midnight on a real amp EQ board.

 

You're going to have to tinker with the EQ settings a little more on the gain-oriented amps like the Marshall and Mesa models. I can't remember my settings on each since it varies in my mood/taste at the time.

 

All of the Effects are great if you know how to apply them. The chorus tones are damn good, and though I am not a fan of flange or phaser, they get the job done. The factory present levels for these modulation effects are good, so they don't necessarily need tweaking. I never use the Whammy anymore since I get smoother pitch shifts using the pitch shifter, which has four octaves and everything in between.

 

The delays are good and versatile. I've never needed any other delay pedal since this one has so many flavors.

 

My favorite reverbs are Studio and Hall. The Studio gives a good stereo sound, and can do wonders combined with the Dual Chorus or a good delay setting.

 

For distortion, I generally use the Big Muff or Boss DS-1 (with low tone setting).

 

Also, don't forget about the factory present models. You can only edit fifty of the one-hundred patches, but the factory ones are really cool too. They nail several classic tones.

 

Make sure you're using a good set of headphones and have the Mixer button on as well.

 

If you're interested in hearing anything I've recorded with it, everything on my Soundcloud was recorded with the RP-150: https://soundcloud.com/patrickaei

[billybilly]

If you are willing to tinker with those mulit digital boxes, you can make some good sounds. I love my zoom G2.1Nu .

[Steve2112]

I think I have said before that I am a big Digitech fan. And I remeber wkrp has made mention of digitech stuff before. But to recap...I started with the very first mass produced street multi FX; Chain Reaction and have almost very version of guitar MFX since right up to RP1000. I did skip the GNX line. Have/had GSP21 PRO, RP1000, RP2000, GSP 2101, (and a few others, I even have an RP90 buried in the pile somewhere) and at least familiar with almost all their FX. Dollar for dollar,they have the best guitar delays in the business. They were pioneers getting rack and floor multi-FX to the working musician and weekend warrior, as well as studio multi FX into the rackmounts of live PA sound. .

 

The Chain Reaction was a 5 effect dual space rack mount with a proprietary but INCLUDED 6 button (?) footswitch. circa 1986. No one else had anything like it. You would have had to have a Bradshaw.

 

Anyway...I am not fond of the small pedal RP series. But if you have one you at least need an expression pedal...like the RP 90. These are VERY cheap pedals and do not judge digitech based on these. The GSP 1101 is a GREAT piece of gear, and the RP1000 is the floor version.

 

Don't be a cheap miser. What good is RP150? You have all these FX and no way to access them. And they are cheap budget FX. This kind of pedal is good for cheap thrills and gig backup. Not even worth making a serious thread about. You can get a few good tones out of it sure no problem. But why bother? Better to have a few stomp pedals.

 

Ir you want to sample the real Digitech Guitar prowess....you'll need the RP 500/1000...or GSP 1101 and midi switch. Now you have more robust platform, more detailed realistic models, and the flexibility to access these versatile tones. The RP 1000 will easily allow you to practice riffs, licks and solos with an easy to use looper.

 

I also like the Rocktron Voodu Valve and Vox Tonelab SE. Do not like the sterile harsh Boss ME series. The Line 6 HD500 is a pretty nice piece, just not as easy to use as RP1000. RP1000 is plug play and rock even factory settings,

 

Sorryt for the rant. Digitech has a special place in my heart. If you think these tiny compact RP digitechs are decent/fun....you owe it to yourself to try the bigger models.

 

[DeepEnd]

. . . What good is RP150? You have all these FX and no way to access them. And they are cheap budget FX. This kind of pedal is good for cheap thrills and gig backup. Not even worth making a serious thread about. You can get a few good tones out of it sure no problem. But why bother? Better to have a few stomp pedals. . . .

 

. . . If you think these tiny compact RP digitechs are decent/fun....you owe it to yourself to try the bigger models.

Wow. You don't like the cheaper DigiTech pedals. We get that. Kinda hard not to. Remember that WRGKMC specifically said it was an impulse buy and that it cost him a whopping $25. I don't think any of us really expects great, Steve2112 caliber effects from it. You can access the effects though if you're willing to spend some time with the manual. I wasn't wild about my RP50 either. But it's cheap, harmless fun and WRGKMC isn't hurting anyone.

[wankdeplank]

Another digitech/DOD fan here. A friend had the RP 50 and used to jam it to death - it never failed him, though I must admit, I thought it looked cheap and would fall apart. My experience is mostly with the stand alone pedals - which I've enjoyed over the years (great chorus) and an old DOD SS solid state practice amp that I use a lot - it's built like a tank. My other practice amp (Peavey Bandit) keeps acting up, but not that old DOD.

[WRGKMC]

I think I have said before that I am a big Digitech fan. And I remeber wkrp has made mention of digitech stuff before.

 

Don't be a cheap miser. What good is RP150? You have all these FX and no way to access them. And they are cheap budget FX. This kind of pedal is good for cheap thrills and gig backup. Not even worth making a serious thread about. You can get a few good tones out of it sure no problem. But why bother? Better to have a few stomp pedals.

 

Sorry for the rant. Digitech has a special place in my heart. If you think these tiny compact RP digitechs are decent/fun....you owe it to yourself to try the bigger models.

 

I have at least 50 high end pedals now and all the big stuff I can ever use so I can afford to be a cheap miser when I feel like it. I didn't buy this as a main unit and I obviously wont be judging their complete line off a budget pedal.

 

The discussion we had previously was about an older GSP5 and 7 rack preamp effects units which I don't have much use for, mainly because the overdrive is isn't very good. The reverbs and chorus are quite excellent and I cant complain much about them because I didn't pay a dime for them. A bunch of my friends are working musicians and they are always bringing me gear to repair. I wound up with two guitars last weekend and repairing his PRS at the gig we did. I don't charge my friends for the work only parts, and because they are friends, they have no problems returning favors if I ever need to ask them. The Rack units were given to me for helping them out when they were in a pinch. I guess they felt they owed me something for my kindness. Most are too poor to pay for the repairs. Working the club circuit is a rough life, I been there so I took the obsolete gear as Gratuity and now they don't feel like they owe me anything which is good.

 

Since I do mostly recording now, I like having a wide variety of sounds, and not all have to be great. Sometimes just having a very different tone in a mix is what makes that recording unique. I hope to be able to get at least a few sounds out of this one I haven't gotten from other pedals. If it winds up being inferior in all categories then one of my musician friends will wind up getting it as a Christmas present.

 

There's nothing wrong with having some cheap pedals mixed in with your good stuff. Back when I repaired music gear for a living I'd get to try out all this stuff doing the repairs and get to know their potentials and judge the quality. Guess the tech in me is still hooked on exploring gear of all kinds and even the best of it becomes boring at some point. Messing with some budget stuff brings back the appreciation you have for the good gear you own.

 

As I said, I'll likely dork around with this one for awhile and wind up becoming frustrated because it falls short, but its the act of searching for those good tones that's the key exercise here, not what the final results may wind up being. It would be good to have both, but keeping those senses alive that bring you to the best tones is much like keeping your guitar hands in shape. Ever pick up a junk guitar, play it awhile till you're getting some good results then switch to a really good guitar? It gives you a much greater appreciation of that instruments quality. You can apply that same thing to pedals, amps etc.

 

I bought a Marshall Blues Breaker a few weeks ago for like $25. The reviews I read were mixed and I now know why first hand. I've had time to use it recording and playing a gig last weekend. It sounds fantastic recording direct. Much better then I expected and gives me the exact tones I wanted and expected. Playing live I was pretty disappointed with the small SS Peavey Studio amp I was using. I wasn't getting the edge I got recording and blame that solely on the amp and not the pedal. I do have 10 other amps and I'm sure it will sound good on some of the larger tube amps. Don't know if this pedal will give me anything useful but recording direct is very different then being plugged into an amp. Buckstudent says he gets a few decent tones and even the cab modeling may be very different recording direct because you're sound is going directly to a high fidelity system that exposes those mild differences. They may be completely useless through a guitar amp that's low fidelity in comparison.

 

Even if they all suck, the unit is a stereo recording interface. If you look around for even used interfaces the cheapest sell for around $50 so I may still be ahead of the game using it for that one purpose alone. It does have the ability to upload presets so that may be interesting too.

A thread on a budget pedal can have its uses. The quest doesn't always have to be for the best gear made. I'm sure this site will load up around the holidays with young musicians getting money for gear and asking questions on what's within their budget. They may get a guitar and amp and not have the cash for a whole set of effects pedals at $100+ a pop. Spending $30 for a good used multi effects pedal may be a good short term solution and even if they only get a few decent tones, they will then have a target to aim at on their own tone quests when they do upgrade.

 

 

 

 

 

[Bucksstudent]

Wow. You don't like the cheaper DigiTech pedals. We get that. Kinda hard not to. Remember that WRGKMC specifically said it was an impulse buy and that it cost him a whopping $25. I don't think any of us really expects great, Steve2112 caliber effects from it. You can access the effects though if you're willing to spend some time with the manual. I wasn't wild about my RP50 either. But it's cheap, harmless fun and WRGKMC isn't hurting anyone.

 

When the RP150 was in regular production, I think it was around $150. I have yet to upgrade to the upper level RP series, like the 1000, because they don't have that many more effects and amps that make it worthwhile. Plus, I'm making professional sounds with it, and I've been using it for eight years, so I can create a good patch in under a minute.

 

Most players don't put in enough time with these models. The upper level RP series had a few more sims in them, but they were basically the same box with added buttons to make editing easier. There is no difference in tone or quality given that they're made from the same software. If you upgrade in the series, you can transfer your patches from the 150/155 to the upper models.

 

...and I've owned many analog pedals, amps, and tried several DAWs. At the end of the day, recording direct into my laptop from the RP150 sounds slicker, is easier than dealing with microphones and post-production EQ, and having a cluttered pedalboard. I currently own one pedal (Hoof Reaper), one amp (Marshall), and four guitars, and the only piece of gear that's remained with me for almost as long as I've been playing has been the RP150.

[WRGKMC]

You can download some programs from the Digitec site called "X edit" and "Preset converter". Since this pedal is an interface I believe these are used to edit the presets parameter values from the computer instead of dealing with a small digital display and buttons on the unit itself. I'm sure there's some site out there where people list their own favorite values like they do with other modeling pedals and amps.

[papaschtroumpf]

Looks like they are now out of stock. You should have posted tot the great deals thread. For that price I might have been tempted.

[billybilly]

Looks like they are now out of stock. You should have posted tot the great deals thread. For that price I might have been tempted.

I'm sure WRGKMC feels terrible for not bringing that to your attention. Personally, I'm sorry you're disappointed and missed out. I mean, will the sun even rise tomorrow?

[humbuckerstrat]

If you are willing to tinker with those mulit digital boxes' date=' you can make some good sounds. I love my zoom G2.1Nu .

I have a RP-255 and a Zoom G2Nu, and I like the distortion tones from the Zoom a lot better. But one thing that the RP has over the Zoom, is the onboard tuner. The onboard tuner on the RP is definitely serviceable, whereas the tuner on the Zoom is totally crap. I have a Korg Pitchblack hooked up that I use instead.

[Steve2112]

 

When the RP150 was in regular production, I think it was around $150. I have yet to upgrade to the upper level RP series, like the 1000, because they don't have that many more effects and amps that make it worthwhile. Plus, I'm making professional sounds with it, and I've been using it for eight years, so I can create a good patch in under a minute.

 

Most players don't put in enough time with these models. The upper level RP series had a few more sims in them, but they were basically the same box with added buttons to make editing easier. There is no difference in tone or quality given that they're made from the same software. If you upgrade in the series, you can transfer your patches from the 150/155 to the upper models.

 

...and I've owned many analog pedals, amps, and tried several DAWs. At the end of the day, recording direct into my laptop from the RP150 sounds slicker, is easier than dealing with microphones and post-production EQ, and having a cluttered pedalboard. I currently own one pedal (Hoof Reaper), one amp (Marshall), and four guitars, and the only piece of gear that's remained with me for almost as long as I've been playing has been the RP150.

 

 

 

I didn't mean any offense to WKRP.

 

buck...if you are happy with what you use, that is cool. I have both the RP90 and RP1000 side by side and I can testify that these FX are not equal. RP150 may have some differences from the 90.

 

The bigger RP's (1000) DO sound better, I believe this to be FACT- weird that you can't hear it- but maybe you never did a SIDE BY SIDE comparison? Side by side, you can;t coax the same quality of sound from the RP9- that you can (EASILY!) from the RP1000. This would seem to make sense to me even if I didn't know it for a fact.

 

The 1000 has an easier interface for on the fly editing. Extra footwitches to access all those programs you can create in one minute. This is not merely for just stage use...but is still very convenient in the studio or bedroom.

 

The RP90 is so bad- that MF were giving it away with purchase of guitars. LOL! FREE. Having said that I have it in my case as a backup. The expression pedal is critical. I'm a HUGE propnent of gettinbg usable tones out of almost ANY piece of gear if you iknow what you are doing. The smaller RP are no exception. But, I think you are kidding yourself if you think there's no difference in the sounds.

 

At any rate- my apologies if WKRP or anyone else was offended. I've been using rack and floor based effects for almost 30 years now, and consider myself adept. I haven't coaxed the same tones out of the RP90 that I can (very easily) out of RP1000. In the end they are are just toys and tools. Using adeptly and appropriately goes a long way.

[billybilly]

The tuner is crap, I still use it though, lol. I can dial in some nice Gary Moore Les Paul sounds on mine.

[WRGKMC]

^^ No offense taken. I enjoy lively discussions vs bobble head responses.

 

Your comparison there, is between a unit that consists of a single processor chip and sells as low as $12~50 used, and another that likely has a dozen chips and sell for about $250~400 used. I would hope the RP1000 sounds better since it costs 10 times as much. Its like anything these days, you get what you pay for. Sometimes you luck out though.

 

I often get great deals on stuff taking those chances. Of course you do take a risk on used electronic stuff because there's usually a reason people are selling it. If its beat to death it may not function up to specs. I do have an advantage because repairing gear has been my trade for 40 years and I don't have a problem Refurbing gear. These all in one units are a higher risk because many cant be repaired. They have a single micro chip that only the manufacturer in china has access to and you couldn't even solder a new one in without a microscope. The rest is usually repairable however.

 

 

[Bucksstudent]

 

 

 

I didn't mean any offense to WKRP.

 

buck...if you are happy with what you use, that is cool. I have both the RP90 and RP1000 side by side and I can testify that these FX are not equal. RP150 may have some differences from the 90.

 

The bigger RP's (1000) DO sound better, I believe this to be FACT- weird that you can't hear it- but maybe you never did a SIDE BY SIDE comparison? Side by side, you can;t coax the same quality of sound from the RP9- that you can (EASILY!) from the RP1000. This would seem to make sense to me even if I didn't know it for a fact.

 

The 1000 has an easier interface for on the fly editing. Extra footwitches to access all those programs you can create in one minute. This is not merely for just stage use...but is still very convenient in the studio or bedroom.

 

The RP90 is so bad- that MF were giving it away with purchase of guitars. LOL! FREE. Having said that I have it in my case as a backup. The expression pedal is critical. I'm a HUGE propnent of gettinbg usable tones out of almost ANY piece of gear if you iknow what you are doing. The smaller RP are no exception. But, I think you are kidding yourself if you think there's no difference in the sounds.

 

At any rate- my apologies if WKRP or anyone else was offended. I've been using rack and floor based effects for almost 30 years now, and consider myself adept. I haven't coaxed the same tones out of the RP90 that I can (very easily) out of RP1000. In the end they are are just toys and tools. Using adeptly and appropriately goes a long way.

 

Fact? Well, if you think it's a fact, then it's impossible to have any further discourse on the topic, isn't it?

[Steve2112]

^^ No offense taken. I enjoy lively discussions vs bobble head responses.

 

Your comparison there, is between a unit that consists of a single processor chip and sells as low as $12~50 used, and another that likely has a dozen chips and sell for about $250~400 used. I would hope the RP1000 sounds better since it costs 10 times as much. Its like anything these days, you get what you pay for. Sometimes you luck out though.

 

I often get great deals on stuff taking those chances. Of course you do take a risk on used electronic stuff because there's usually a reason people are selling it. If its beat to death it may not function up to specs. I do have an advantage because repairing gear has been my trade for 40 years and I don't have a problem Refurbing gear. These all in one units are a higher risk because many cant be repaired. They have a single micro chip that only the manufacturer in china has access to and you couldn't even solder a new one in without a microscope. The rest is usually repairable however.

 

 

I only made the comparison because buckstudent claimed no difference.

 

I was going to say "yeah it can only make sense"...but imagined the "fanboi" reply.

 

Would you be interested in attempting a repair for me? I have a G-K Backline 100 in which I ruied the preamp circuit board. This would have to be a VERY cheap repair as it's not worth much. I emailed a guy on another forum who thought he had a bad poweramp from a couple years ago...no luck yet.

 

Would like to save this amp. Not worth much or great sounding just principle alone. Interested?

[Steve2112]

 

Fact? Well, if you think it's a fact, then it's impossible to have any further discourse on the topic, isn't it?

 

Well...so you have an RP90 or RP 150 AND an RP100 right next to each other?

 

We can do an A/B test. We can record A/B through the same guitar, same amps, direct, same daws recording etc.

 

Well if you DON'T....then it's impossible to have further discussion on the topic...isn't it?

 

 

I suppose we could always compare some clips. Not exactly true scientific evaluation. But it's a start. Much prefer True A/B. Ready?

[WRGKMC]

 

 

Would you be interested in attempting a repair for me? I have a G-K Backline 100 in which I ruined the preamp circuit board. This would have to be a VERY cheap repair as it's not worth much. I emailed a guy on another forum who thought he had a bad power amp from a couple years ago...no luck yet.

 

Would like to save this amp. Not worth much or great sounding just principle alone. Interested?

 

I took to see if I could find the schematic. Spent about an hour without any luck so far. I would probably have to get it from the manufacturer.

Here's a model that is close. Looks like its all op amps and FET's.

 

ttp://elektrotanya.com/PREVIEWS/63463243/23432455/egyeb/gallien_krueger_bl250_210_350_115_600_preamp_206_0181.pdf_1.png

 

Diagnosing where the fault is via signal tracing if you have the right schematic isn't very hard. You simply inject an audio tone into the front end and use a small audio amp with a capacitor to isolate the probe, then check the signal stage by stage until you find the signal going into a component and nothing coming out the other side. That tells you what component (s) fail. I can usually isolate that kind of stuff down in short order depending on how tough it is to get to the components on the board.

 

Identification of the fault isn't the hard part in most cases. Its finding the proper replacement components. Many of these newer builds use manufacturer coded components. They may be your run of the mill chips but the manufacturer puts codes on the chips that cant be cross referenced to generic parts. They do this now to prevent having their circuits pirated and to prevent techs like myself from doing repairs. They keep their information secret from the public and you have to be a highly skilled hacker to find the information you need.

 

Most of the G-K schematics do identify the parts well enough. Where you can really run into problems is where you have more then one fault. If a chip shorted out and took out the power supply too, you may have to do a partial repair to get voltages back just to power up the chips to see which ones are faulty.

 

This is why repair services have a minimal charge for repairs. You can loose your shirt just getting a piece of gear diagnosed. The cost of components and actually putting them in is often chump change. Its the law of averages that has to prevail. You get several easy fixes that cover the tough ones where you actually loose money in the diagnostic stages. In a steady business you work on those when you have free time and you fill in an 8 hour day when things are slow. You don't make any money but you keep your reputation intact.

 

Manufacturers have put most independent techs out of business. They swap a board that costs them $10 in 5 minutes and charge a customer 1000% markup on the board and charge a minimal fee plus shipping. Buying that board from a manufacturer would cost the same as it did for the end user so there's no profit for a tech to get involved. I do my own repairs and some for friends but to be quite honest, I don't want to take a chance on your repair. Even if the fix is simple, the cause of the fault can be stealth. It may be a weak power cap for example that's leaking too much AC and fails under harder operating conditions. It may work fine and fail again and then I'd be stuck in a repair warrantee situation.

 

I've learned my lesson quite well as a tech having carried a tool bag doing field repairs most of my life. When you work for a company they can absorb those call backs and still turn a profit. Unless I was doing repairs full time and could absorb the expense of a problem unit, I avoid getting directly involved and limit my help to advising others. I cant predict what might be involved or what it might cost. Techs spend a lifetime getting the short end of the stick by employers and customers and I really don't want to I have to get the shaft on a budget repair if things go south.

[knotty]

So no then.

[Bucksstudent]

So no then.

 

At some point you have to look at your opposition and just shake your head, right?

[Steve2112]

 

At some point you have to look at your opposition and just shake your head, right?

I'm not your "opposition". I am telling you based on actual side by side- long term experience.

 

If you chose to not take advantage of it, or even ridicule it, fine.

[Steve2112]

BY the way...I took knotty's reply more for WKRP's response to my amp question rather than whatever feud you've dreamt up for me.

 

But, I could be wrong about that.

[knotty]

BY the way...I took knotty's reply more for WKRP's response to my amp question rather than whatever feud you've dreamt up for me.

 

But, I could be wrong about that.

It was indeed in reference to WKREGO s Loooooonnnnnggg winded answer.