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How long does it take you to change all 6 strings?


RobC99

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Depends on the guitar and whether or not I'm giving the fretboard a good cleaning at the same time.

 

If it's just a string change then I'd say maybe 15 minutes or so for all strings, maybe 20. I don't really think you're taking an exceptionally long time....what's the big deal? It's not a race.

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depends where you measure your time. just changing the string in a hurry and tune one time can be done under 10 even 5 minutes....

but bending the strings, retuning, bending so they get somewhere where all strings stay in tune take some time...

20 minutes is not unusual

 

but if it annoys you why do you change them? i only change a string if it breaks and not all six...

 

some of my guitars have their strings already for years on, but yes they do not get much play-time

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I take my time because I'm in no hurry and I have a specific method I prefer. I open the new strings and put a drop of CA to glue the ball ends first. This prevents slippage and prevents the strings from unwinding. I do allot of string bends and this is very important to maintain tuning stability.

 

When I remove the old strings I inspect the frets for wear and about every 4th or 5th set I may need to polish the frets. Again, this is because I bend strings allot and I'm very hard on frets and prefer a glassy smooth fret.

 

When I reinstall strings I use some graphite on the nut to prevent tuning issues and I also make sure they aren't twisted end to end. Twisted strings can cause a number of freaky issues with how they sound and feel and this usually helps to prevent many weird string buzzes.

 

When cutting the new strings I carefully measure the length of string that will wrap around the posts. Since the strings get progressively thinner I make sure the excess string that wraps around the posts gets progressively longer. The goal is to have the bottom of the strings end up the same height on the tuning pegs and in the case of 3X3 tuners the same height off the headstock.

 

This insures I have a consistent break away angle from the nut after each string change and the feel of the strings when playing on the lower frets is consistently the same.

 

Its also helpful in maintaining relief on thin necked guitars that can change relief with variations in the string breakaway angle and I find I don't have to jack with the action and intonation in the process.I even have a few unique guitars where this break away pressure on the nut is important to prevent strings from jumping out of the nut under vigorous playing conditions.

 

I can usually do all of this in 30 to 60 minutes, but like I said, I'm rarely in a hurry and may even be watching the tube when doing this.

 

What does take longer is stretching the strings and breaking them in. The thinner strings have more wraps around the tuners so they do tend to stretch a bit more. The good part is they also tend to remain elastic longer on the thin strings I bend allot so there's less chance of breakage as they age.

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I really wish Les Paul and Leo Fender, as engineers, had gone straight for double ball arrangements and set a standard.

I take maybe 20 -25. I cut them these days, use a winder and spend time stretching and tuning. as well as cleaning everything down whilst they are off. Hate having like 6 'syringe needles' of wire at the headstock and still get the occasional pierced fingertip tidying it up.

Fortunately I prefer older strings which seem closer to sinusoidal ( to my ear ) without all the jangly harmonics. The only drawback, of course is that if you break one you have to change them all :(

 

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I first check the calender and weather reports before I start, I don't want the moons gravitational pull or a ridge of high pressure screwing things up.

 

Then I remove each string from its pack and check its specification with a micrometer Each string is then graded for actual size depending on its percentage over or under spec. Any that are outside accepted tolerances I send back to the manufacturer with the instructions on how to re-calibrate their equipment.

I then make them into matched sets, ensuring they are all the same make of string.(I wouldn't want my G string giving me a Dire Straits tone and my B string giving me a Jeff Beck tone, What a fool I would look.)

I then braze the ball ends to stop them unwinding. I bend a lot and this is essential to staying in tune. (I used to use glue but when I shredded instead of bending they tended to melt.}

 

I test the frets with a friction gauge and any with a reading higher than Teflon get ripped out, replaced, polished until in spec , coated in silicon , then polished and checked again. This is essential as I bend a lot.

 

When I fit the new strings I always cut a new nut, with a laser, to exactly match the measured diameter of the new strings set. I bend a lot so this is essential to stay in tune.

 

After winding the new strings, before fully tensioning, I adjust the height of the tuning posts. I have modified these with dual locking nuts so I can vary and fix the height. I find they have to give a break angle which is constant within a tolerance of 1 minute. I failed to do this once on a Strat and it twisted the neck making it impossible to set the relief. { I told Fender about this but they seemed to think their headstock was OK, fools, it will never catch on! } The added bonus is that it equalises the pressure required to bend. To keep this constant I adjust the break angle for different types of strings. I bend a lot so this is important.

 

I am very careful when stretching them in, using an adapted torque gauge so I don't pull too hard. Obviously If I break one I start the whole process again. Uniformity is essential, because I bend a lot.

 

This is the only way to do the job properly.

I can usually do this within a week. But that's me, most of you will take at least a month.

 

After changing strings that way the only pedal I need in my chain is this.

 

images3_zps49a0cffa.jpg

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I take my time with string changes. It's ritual like in a way. I could save several minutes by clipping the old strings but don't.

 

I like to do that to when I can but not if I'm in the middle of a show.

 

I've realized that dealing with broken strings is a regular part of my life so I'm prepared. I'll have spare strings tucked under the handle of my amp along with the cut off end of a low E string so I can quickly push end of the broken string through the body of a strat or tele - I've also remove the back plate from my strats.

 

I prefer consistency in feel and tone from string to string so I'll change the broken string when it breaks and replace the others during the next break.

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I like to do that to when I can but not if I'm in the middle of a show.

 

I've realized that dealing with broken strings is a regular part of my life so I'm prepared. I'll have spare strings tucked under the handle of my amp along with the cut off end of a low E string so I can quickly push end of the broken string through the body of a strat or tele - I've also remove the back plate from my strats.

 

I prefer consistency in feel and tone from string to string so I'll change the broken string when it breaks and replace the others during the next break.

 

I'm curious to the brand of strings you use and how long they last before breaking. I'm brutal on strings but they rarely break. They have to be super old and brittle for that to happen. I usually change them when the wrapped strings get notches worn through at the frets so maybe that's before the unwrapped strings get ready to break. I also bring at least one backup so I don't have to deal with changing strings at a show, but I realize that's not always an option for many.

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Right now I'm using GHS but I've used lots of others and I like the playability of these ones.

 

I always break the D string regardless of the guitar so I know it's me and not the instrument. The other one I break more often than others is the high E. I've accepted it and, like tuning, it's something I deal with in a way that least affects the music.

 

For me, bringing a backup usually results in me not needing it. The times I break string are usually the few occasions when I only have one guitar available. It's sort of like buying insurance - I think "I'd better bring a spare so that I won't break a string" - or maybe I just notice it more when it's a bigger deal than just picking up another guitar.

 

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Sometimes, I change only the lighter gauge strings, I like the bass response of the thicker strings as they age.

Floyd Rose guitars, I just don't cut the ball ends, I string them at the tuning keys, lock it down and pull the hell out of them for a couple of minutes, that takes at least 15 minutes and sometimes I have to unlock the nut and repeat until it's perfect.

I also have traditional Strats with Wilkinson tremolos, a Dragon Fire Roller nut / Fender LSR nut, Sperzel locking tuners and use Fender Super Bullet strings, since the fit snug in a tremolo block. I pull and tug until they are fully stretched, usually takes 10 minutes.

With ABR / Nashville type bridges. I like to tug on the strings between the tailpiece, the bridge and between the nut and the tuning keys. That usually takes 5 minutes to string up and 10 minutes of string tugging and pulling.

 

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I agree with attitude of WRGKMC (or whatever his moniker is!). What's the hurry (unless you are at a gig, that is)? I clean fret board every time, polish frets with jewelers cloth, polish up whatever I couldn't get to because the strings were in the way. I like to think "If I am nice to my guitar, it will be nice to me". Put an album on, pour a cup of coffee and enjoy the journey. Strings don't last long in the tropics, and corrosion is nuts, so checking out all the metal is a must. Finish the whole thing off with a bit of polishing the body.

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About an hour because when I change all six strings, I clean the fretboard, tighten all the screws (neck screws and tuners), and polish the guitar, making sure to polish the area under the strings (pickups, etc.) that isn't easy to get to without the strings off. If the guitar has a Floyd, it takes about an hour and a half, because i have to use an Allen key.

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Many Luther's will recommend replacing one string at a time then bringing that string up to pitch before starting the next. This way Tome bridge settings and neck relief is maintained so you don't have to go through having the truss settle back in again. I do this on a couple of my guitars that have thin necks which are susceptible to string tension changes. The rest I don't have to worry about doing them all at once.

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Many Luther's will recommend replacing one string at a time then bringing that string up to pitch before starting the next. This way Tome bridge settings and neck relief is maintained so you don't have to go through having the truss settle back in again. I do this on a couple of my guitars that have thin necks which are susceptible to string tension changes. The rest I don't have to worry about doing them all at once.

 

I don't wish to cast doubt - really I don't, trust me, maybe I've missed something really important - but I've been playing guitar for more years than most people on here have lived and I've never once touched a truss rod. I've heard of 'em. Do many people really feel they need to adjust them regularly?

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I don't wish to cast doubt - really I don't, trust me, maybe I've missed something really important - but I've been playing guitar for more years than most people on here have lived and I've never once touched a truss rod. I've heard of 'em. Do many people really feel they need to adjust them regularly?

 

Generally I only need to adjust the truss rod when the previous owner has adjusted the truss rod.

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Generally I only need to adjust the truss rod when the previous owner has adjusted the truss rod.

 

Ah, now, see, so often I think I'm really weird here because I don't seem to follow the prevalent memes, but at times like this I feel almost normal. Of course "normal" is probably a very bad thing to be :)

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I don't wish to cast doubt - really I don't, trust me, maybe I've missed something really important - but I've been playing guitar for more years than most people on here have lived and I've never once touched a truss rod. I've heard of 'em. Do many people really feel they need to adjust them regularly?

 

 

Well I dont so I'm in your camp. They guy talks good sense and utter crap in equal measure. And I dont mind saying it. This is up there with his inconsistent break angle by non uniform post windings ruining your relief.

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