Members KevinTJH Posted July 13, 2014 Members Share Posted July 13, 2014 I took my beloved BC Rich to the stage with me at my last show and I came back with a big surprise. A chunk of the headstock just went missing. Thankfully I managed to find one of the pieces and I glued it back with superglue, but as you can tell from the photos, the headstock is splintered. Would wood putty do the trick? I'm very much more concerned that it'll continue to get worse since small pieces of wood can easily just break off from that area. Also, bumping that broken part of the headstock even once could potentially break off the piece I just glued back. What should I do? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted July 13, 2014 Members Share Posted July 13, 2014 Because this is raw wood it would be difficult to get wood filler that matches. What I'd do is just fill it so the problem is arrested and write it off as a battle wound. Get some 5 minute epoxy from an auto parts or hardware store. The epoxy pre measures the right amount of the two liquids as its squeezed out of the dispenser. Mix it up and apply it to the damaged area with something like a popsicle stick and trowel it smooth. You can put it on thick but be careful it doesn't run. It will harden quickly but don't touch it as it does. It will dry clear and build up the area where the wood is missing. Once its completely hard after a day or so, if its wavy you can sand it smooth and then apply some more. The trick again is to get it on there so its still liquid and flows, then let it harden with a high gloss. You can tape off the area around the break with vinyl electrical tape. Epoxy wont stick to vinyl tape of you overshoot the application. Don't use masking tape. You can apply lacquer over it but there shouldn't be a need to if you apply it right. With careful application you can build it up for a nearly transparent fix. I use epoxy for many neck and headstock breaks and it can fill in missing wood chunks nicely. It doesn't shrink or crack, it can be sanded and its extremely durable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members KevinTJH Posted July 13, 2014 Author Members Share Posted July 13, 2014 Because this is raw wood it would be difficult to get wood filler that matches. What I'd do is just fill it so the problem is arrested and write it off as a battle wound. Get some 5 minute epoxy from an auto parts or hardware store. The epoxy pre measures the right amount of the two liquids as its squeezed out of the dispenser. Mix it up and apply it to the damaged area with something like a popsicle stick and trowel it smooth. You can put it on thick but be careful it doesn't run. It will harden quickly but don't touch it as it does. It will dry clear and build up the area where the wood is missing. Wait, by epoxy, are you referring to glue or actual wood putty? The very tip that broke off will be a challenge since I would have mould whatever I use to the right shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members knotty Posted July 13, 2014 Members Share Posted July 13, 2014 Personally I would sand the top down until its level. Then sort the rest as others suggest. Ok that prong will be half a cm shorter but nobody will ever notice. The horns on SG s are not symmetrical and people who actully own then often dont know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members KevinTJH Posted July 13, 2014 Author Members Share Posted July 13, 2014 Personally I would sand the top down until its level. Then sort the rest as others suggest. Ok that prong will be half a cm shorter but nobody will ever notice. Now that I've glued back that piece that I found, it will actually be very obvious. If I were to sand it down, one of the horns will look blunt or it's been cut off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members knotty Posted July 13, 2014 Members Share Posted July 13, 2014 Now that I've glued back that piece that I found, it will actually be very obvious. If I were to sand it down, one of the horns will look blunt or it's been cut off. If you want it built up and colour matched I think would ask a french polisher to have a look at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members gardo Posted July 13, 2014 Members Share Posted July 13, 2014 I think any repair will be noticeable,you just have to choose one you can live with and chalk it up to experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members billybilly Posted July 13, 2014 Members Share Posted July 13, 2014 Because this is raw wood it would be difficult to get wood filler that matches. What I'd do is just fill it so the problem is arrested and write it off as a battle wound. Get some 5 minute epoxy from an auto parts or hardware store. The epoxy pre measures the right amount of the two liquids as its squeezed out of the dispenser. Mix it up and apply it to the damaged area with something like a popsicle stick and trowel it smooth. You can put it on thick but be careful it doesn't run. It will harden quickly but don't touch it as it does. It will dry clear and build up the area where the wood is missing. Once its completely hard after a day or so, if its wavy you can sand it smooth and then apply some more. The trick again is to get it on there so its still liquid and flows, then let it harden with a high gloss. You can tape off the area around the break with vinyl electrical tape. Epoxy wont stick to vinyl tape of you overshoot the application. Don't use masking tape. You can apply lacquer over it but there shouldn't be a need to if you apply it right. With careful application you can build it up for a nearly transparent fix. I use epoxy for many neck and headstock breaks and it can fill in missing wood chunks nicely. It doesn't shrink or crack, it can be sanded and its extremely durable. Do the above and yes, real epoxy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members KevinTJH Posted July 14, 2014 Author Members Share Posted July 14, 2014 Would anyone be kind enough to post a link/photo of the exact epoxy I should get? I just want to make sure I use the right product! Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members billybilly Posted July 14, 2014 Members Share Posted July 14, 2014 Would anyone be kind enough to post a link/photo of the exact epoxy I should get? I just want to make sure I use the right product! Thanks in advance. Enough hand holding, epoxy is epoxy. Time to man up and get to a hardware store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members JC777 Posted July 14, 2014 Members Share Posted July 14, 2014 Some may have some epoxy suggestions but I'd use Titebond II or III. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted July 14, 2014 Members Share Posted July 14, 2014 Any clear 5 minuite epoxy should be find. Half of them are made by Dupont or one of the other big chemical manufacturers and sold under different names. Heres some from Wallmart. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-84101-2-Oz.-PermaPoxy-5-Minute-General-Purpose-Epoxy/20371224?action=product_interest&action_type=title&placement_id=irs_top&strategy=PWVAV&visitor_id=82630554118&category=0%3A1072864%3A1044066&client_guid=3719bf02-31ed-42e2-a3cf-82754212d72f&config_id=2&parent_item_id=20370994&guid=f147fcd1-0389-4f5d-b776-0f930adb83b5&bucket_id=irsbucketdefault&findingMethod=p13n Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.