string catches the edge of the fret

[papaschtroumpf]

My kid has a cheap strat copy (Rogue RR100) that is not half bad once he got it set up at a local shop. I started playing it just to experience a different neck from my Dot, and found a problem: the frets stick up from the wood at the edges of the neck, like if they weren't pounded in all the way in. That causes the lower E string to catch the rdgr of the fret and get stuck there sometimes (eg when strumming). The kid doesn't remember how long it's been that way (he doesn't play it much). I'm guessing this is not normal/on purpose right? That means the fret radius is larger than the neck radius? I live in Colorado where the air is very dry, is it the cause of it? What should I do about it? The guitar plays fine except for the string catching the edge of the fret. I originally thought of putting a dab of superglue in the notch of the fret to fill it in, but should I pound the frets back in instead? For a $70 guitar, I don't really want to go spend a bunch of money for repairs by a pro.

[BG76]

I would put a little oil on the fretboard and hopefully that will solve the problem. I have a maple fretboard Les Paul Junior that had a similar issue and this is what Gibson suggested and it solved the problem.

 

Failing that, you could try superglue. The reason I would not try that at first is that if the wood does move a little that could pop out the fret (at best) or crack the fretboard (worst extreme).

 

If the oil didn't work I may try filing a TINY bit on the fret end.

[papaschtroumpf]

Does the oïl cause the fingerboard to swell a bit? If ont i'm ont sûre i understand that solution

[DeepEnd]

Does the oïl cause the fingerboard to swell a bit? If ont i'm ont sûre i understand that solution

I suspect the oil is a quick way to rehydrate a dried out fingerboard. The normal method is to keep the guitar in an environment with sufficient humidity (the case or a plastic bag) to address the problem but that takes time, which some folks aren't willing to invest. Gibson gave BG76 a quick solution.

 

If rehydrating doesn't do it, the guitar will probably need to be taken to a pro and have the frets hammered down unless the OP is comfortable doing it. Another option is to buy a cheap replacement neck on Amazon or find a used guitar on Craigslist and cannibalize it for the neck.

[Steve2112]

A 70 dollar guitar and this is your only complaint? Lucky!

 

Did you know the frets stuck out when you bought it?

 

I oil my necks as part of regular maintenance. Light lemon oil for cleaning and lube. The frets should probably be pressed in, not hammered.

 

It makes me question the entire guitar setup.

[Steve2112]

I suspect the oil is a quick way to rehydrate a dried out fingerboard. The normal method is to keep the guitar in an environment with sufficient humidity (the case or a plastic bag) to address the problem but that takes time, which some folks aren't willing to invest. Gibson gave BG76 a quick solution.

 

If rehydrating doesn't do it, the guitar will probably need to be taken to a pro and have the frets hammered down unless the OP is comfortable doing it. Another option is to buy a cheap replacement neck on Amazon or find a used guitar on Craigslist and cannibalize it for the neck.

 

Chances are many used guitars would be a guitar replacement, not a parts bin for this junker. (Don;t get me wrong, I love cheap guitars!- just have to be diligent.)

[DeepEnd]

Chances are many used guitars would be a guitar replacement, not a parts bin for this junker. (Don;t get me wrong, I love cheap guitars!- just have to be diligent.)

Undoubtedly true, a $70 junker has only so much salvage value but it depends on the guitar. A while back there was an Arbor Strat copy on the local CraigsList going for $50 with a beat up hardshell case. Probably not a great player for that price but there had to be $50 worth of usable parts in it. Buy another junker and make one halfway good guitar. Or give up and buy something like one of those $89 Squier sparkle Strats the next time there's a sale.

[Floyd Rosenbomb]

I'd like to see a picture of said problem. I read the post, but I don't really get what is going on. Picture = 1,000 words.

[Freeman Keller]

1 - don't oil a fretboard. If it is a finished maple board it won't do any good, if it is an unfinished ebony or rosewood board all it does is make it look shiny. If the guitar happens to be finished in nitro, lemon oil can actually damage the finish (your guitar won't be but Martin has a special warning on their website not to use lemon oil on fretboards). If the board is dehydrated, rehydrate it.

 

2 - Guitars should be humidified summer and winter. Keep it in a case with a damp sponge in a baggie with some holes poked in it. A common symptom of a dry guitar is that the ends of the frets get sharp - the board shrinks slightly and the ends poke out. It if fairly uncommon for the radius of the board to change or for the frets to pop up, but before you do anything else get the humidity stable (might take several weeks or more)

 

3 - Figure out exactly what is going on with the frets. Is the low E string too close to the edge of the fretboard (normal spacing is 0.110 to 0.,125) - if so cut a new nut or saddle or both. Is it one fret or several or all? Carefully look at the frets - if they are high you will probably see a slight gap between the bottom of the fret and the board. You can tap them down with a plastic faced hammer but you run the risk of getting them uneven which will create buzzes. If they are not low possibly they need to be leveled - again probably a job for a pro. It is fairly common to wick a little thin CA into the ends of the frets to hold them down (unbound fretboard, of course) once you get them down (fwiw - in my shop I use an arbor press and a special caul curved to the f/b radius to press them down, then level and crown).

 

4 - You mention having it "setup". Did it do this before? What exactly did they do to it - nut slots, relief, action, spacing to the edges of the board? Do the fret ends have a nice 45 degree bevel and are they nicely radiused? I'm having a little trouble picturing the low E string getting pushed over the end of the frets while strumming - sounds like some technique issues (thumb fretting the low E, big bends to the outside).

 

Its not normal, but before trying to fix anything first get the hydration stable, then figure out exactly what is going on.

 

 

[papaschtroumpf]

Well said lower E string but I should have said high E (lower as in at the bottom of the neck)

Since it's a cheap guitar I don't want to take it to a pro. I may try to hammer the frets in but need to research the proper way to do it. Worried about them popping upon the other side but I guessthey probably arepliable enough. I tried to take a pic with my phone (all I have, I am on vacation, it's the other reason I am playing that guitar, didn't want to travel withmy good one).

Since it's my kid's guitar I don't know how long the probem has existed or what hey did form the setup.

And yes, for a guitar that price it's been pretty decent otherwise.

[fouronsix]

The real cure for this guitar is simply file the offending fret flush with the side of the neck. For cryin out loud, this is a cheap guitar that deserves a cheap fix.

[Into Nation]

The real cure for this guitar is simply file the offending fret flush with the side of the neck. For cryin out loud' date=' this is a cheap guitar that deserves a cheap fix.[/quote']

 

I agree with this... Trying to hammer down the offending fret might just make things worse. You start moving frets around you'll get buzzing and have to level the whole thing.

[wankdeplank]

^Not sure I agree with this quick fix - not sure how that would even work, let alone the problem of playing on a rough filed fret.

 

If you do decide to try the hammer, make sure that it is "plastic faced" as Freeman Keller recommends or one made of hard rubber. Make sure all strings are off the instrument when tapping a fret (otherwise a fret dress will be in order). I've used a rubber mallot for high frets with reasonable success - I've never had one dislodge. Short of an arbor press, this is probably your best bet.

 

 

[WRGKMC]

If its a popped fret then you can clamp it down and use a little CA to hold it down. If its just right some sand paper or a file may work. If there's a gap I usually use CA to fill it in. You just need to be careful not to douse it. The gel may be better because its not going to run all the way through and out the other side of the fret.

 

Also make sure the neck is not back bowed. If you have frets popping out it may be an indication the neck is back bowed and the frets board is spreading allowing the frets to pop out.

[papaschtroumpf]

Stupid question: what does CA stand for?

[Freeman Keller]

Stupid question: what does CA stand for?

 

Cynoacrylic. Super glue to everyone else. It comes in at least three viscosities - thin works best for wicking into tight places, medium for filling small voids, thick for drop filling damaged finish. btw - if you smear a bunch of oil on the f/b as was suggested earlier CA probably won't stick - duh.

 

I still haven't heard if this is one fret or several or all of them. I still haven't heard what the spacing to the edge of the fretboard is. I still haven't seen pictures of the ends of the frets. The original post was slightly confusing about his low E string being the one closest to the floor so before I would do anything it seems like a good idea to actually diagnose the real problem.

[WRGKMC]

Oh and using a fret rocker to see if those frets are higher then others is a good move. They you would know for sure if the frets are lifting up and need to be clamped down.

 

In cases like this I don't recommend trying to hammer frets back in. That's best done when installing frets. You radius the frets smaller before hammering them in and the ends stay down. If the ends pop up its because the radius pressure isn't there and hammering them in will only dent the fretboard below. Its best to use a wood clamp. Wick some CA under the frets then clamp it down and it will fix the issue. It also increases string sustain when you have positive contact with the fretboard.

 

Rocking the frets is they key on how to proceed. If someone leveled the frets after the few had lifted, then just filling the gaps will work. If you have high frets, clamping them down is best, plus you avoid having to level the fretboard if you're lucky. In either case don't pull a hammer out and start whacking away. Reseating frets is an art and unless you have the tools and experience, its not to be taken lightly. Normally you'd carefully remove the fret, re-radius it then hammer it back in. You don't just try and pound the ends down. Anything but a hard plastic hammer will dent the frets compounding the problem and making it worse. Use the CA instead. There's less chance of botching things requiring a re-fret.

 

As a precaution wax the fretboard around the fret so it doesn't stick to the wood and will wick under the fret. any excess can be removed with CA remover (Acetone)